Improving
the Drive Clutch Assembly in a Cub Cadet
- This entire page was last updated 10/20/10. (Click Refresh.)
- Improving International Harvester's "Original" Cub Cadet (belt-to-clutch-drive) Clutch Assembly (Updated 11/20/10)
- I can professionally rebuild other clutches of virtually any kind as well as Cub Cadet ones. Please contact us if you have any questions.
- Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. To search for a word or phrase in this Web page, with Microsoft Internet Explorer 6.x, press CTRL+F to open the Find dialog box.
On the direct-drive Cub Cadet, power from the engine is transferred to the transaxle through the clutch assembly and driveshaft. If the clutch is worn or if stock (OEM) parts are used, the clutch may slip and little power or torque will be transferred, especially when using the tractor to haul heavy loads, and/or pulling competitively with a big engine in a fast gear. An engine in a pulling tractor that's built to the max or operates at wide open throttle produces a lot more torque than what Cub Cadet anticipated for the driveline to handle. Therefore, the clutch assembly is the weak point (and the carrier and axles), and will need to be reinforced for durability and to prevent slippage. Remember: towards the end of the track, if the tires don't spin or the engine bogs down, then the clutch will slip or something elsewhere will possibly twist or break.
Depending on the class your tractor is going to pull in and engine size/modifications, there are many variations in which clutch/driveshaft design and carrier/axles to use. Listed are the weakest to the strongest:
- For the driveshaft material, there's mild steel, stress proof steel, chrome-moly steel and stainless steel.
- As for the clutch, there's the single OEM Cub Cadet fiber clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring, a single aluminum clutch disc, also with a stiffer pressure spring, double OEM Cub Cadet clutch discs with a stiffer pressure spring, the metallic clutch disc with a stiffer pressure spring, multiple clutch discs with a stiffer pressure spring, VW clutch/pressure plate/flywheel, etc.
- And as for the carrier and axles, there's the OEM Cub Cadet heavy duty one-piece carrier with either coarse or fine spline axles, OEM Cub Cadet's (MTD) two-piece fine spline carrier and axles, Ford Pinto carrier and axles, Chrysler's 7-1/4" carrier and axles, and Ford's 8" carrier and axles.
Using Quality Driveshaft Material Is Important!
Most driveshafts are likely to
break at the second roll-pin hole, just in front of the throw-out (clutch
release) bearing. Because that's where the most vibration usually occurs.
They also break just behind the pressure spring,
in front of the pillow block bearing, due to temporary frame twisting (narrow
frames) when pulling. If this happens, it's best to install a
split locking collar. Mainly what makes a driveshaft
break at 4,000+ rpm is either poor workmanship, poor quality material,
out-of-balance rotating parts, 
lack
of a center support bearing (pillow block bearing) near the center of the
driveshaft and/or severe "flexing" of the tractor's frame (only with a big
engine that's in a narrow frame tractor). If quality driveshaft material
is used, and if the rotating parts are precision balanced and if a carrier
bearing is also installed (above 4,000 rpm. The factory setting of maximum
rpm for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines
is 3,600), the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even
when used in high-performance conditions.
Remember, in the direct-drive Cub Cadet, the entire clutch/driveshaft assembly rotates the same speed as the engine. For reliability in a highly modified tractor that turns well above 4,000 rpm, the driveshaft must be made of quality, solid hardened steel that can resist torsional twist. Such as 1144 stress-proof steel, heat-treated 4140 chrome-moly steel or 304 alloy stainless steel.
- Mild steel (cold rolled; 45,000 p.s.i. strength; about the same as OEM material) cost the least, and can be safely used in a basic stock tractor with an engine that's limited to 4,000 rpm or for non-pulling applications. It's obviously easy to bore holes through.
- Stress-proof steel is heat-treated, which makes it very strong (95,000 p.s.i. strength, which is about twice stronger than OEM driveshafts). It'll flex with slightly out-of-balance rotating parts at high rpm then return to its original straightness when the speed is reduced. It's easy to bore holes through.
- Heat-treated chrome-moly steel is another quality material to use. It comes in various hardnesses; from 60,000 to 100,000 p.s.i. strength. It's somewhat easy to bore holes through.
- 304 alloy stainless steel is much more rigid than any of the above metals (130,000 p.s.i. strength) and works excellent for use as driveshaft material. It requires a little more effort to bore holes through.
Advertisement:
If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below, please
contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203 USA |  Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.)  Fax:
1-573-449-7347.  E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
 Driveshafts for Clutch
Drive IH and MTD-built Cub Cadets -
NOTE: These driveshafts are made to order.
When ordering, please specify the model of Cub Cadet you have and possibly
the exact length and where you want the roll pin holes drilled. If you're
not sure about the length, to determine the exact length, measure between
the end of the crankshaft threads or bolt head to the input shaft on the
transaxle (or creeper drive input shaft), and then subtract 1/4". This will
allow an 1/8" clearance on each end. I also make driveshafts for hydrostatic
drive Cub Cadets.
Ê
Driveshafts for IH Hydrostatic Drive and "Original" Cub Cadets -
|
Driveshaft for Cub Cadet
models 105, 107, 123, 125, 127, 147 (narrow frames) and 109, 129, 149, 169
(wide frames w/solid mounted engine) and "Original" Cub Cadets.
Driveshaft for Cub Cadet
models 1100, 1250, 1450 & 1650 (wide frames w/ISO-mounted engine).
When to use a Split Locking Collar on the Driveshaft -
The
only reason a locking collar is needed behind the
pressure spring is for competitive pulling
and when the engine turns at very high rpm. When a pillow block bearing is
used to stabilize the driveshaft (prevent wobble) at very high rpm, the collar
prevents the driveshaft from breaking [when a hole is drilled for the 3rd
roll pin] and when or if the driveshaft flex under pulling strain. If a stock
engine will never run above 4,000 rpm, then a locking collar shouldn't be
needed on the driveshaft.
Note: when using a stainless steel driveshaft, the locking collar may slip rearward when the clutch pedal is fully depressed. Because stainless steel is very hard material and it has a "slick" surface. Sometimes using two collars will slip also. So to prevent the collar(s) from slipping, install flat washers behind the collar and in front of the pillow block bearing so the pressure will against the bearing and the bearing will hold the collar in position. Or, place a bead of weld on a washer and drive to prevent the collar(s) from slipping. And a locking collar will grip mild or stress proof steel with no problems. Return To Previous Paragraph
Advertisement:
| If you need a two-piece
clamp-on 5/8" i.d. shaft collar as mentioned and pictured above, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Each locking collar has two Allen head screws that holds the clamp together
and provide a very tight uniform 360° grip around the driveshaft.
$3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Position the split
locking collar at 9-1/4" from the very front of the driveshaft. This will
compress the spring at 4-1/2" in length once installed (with the clutch/brake
pedal not depressed). |
Do this only if the front
axle has been moved forward -
On the narrow frame Cub Cadets, if the front axle has been
moved forward, reinforce the frame rails where the engine mounting holes
are to reduce normal high-rpm engine vibration travel that could lead to
both frame and driveshaft breakage. To do so, stiffen the frame rails where
the engine mounting bolt holes are by welding two 1/4" thick steel plates
under the frame. Longer engine mounting bolts must be used, too. The reason
for this is because when the front axle center support is moved, the remaining
frame material isn't thick enough to hold up to the engine vibration.
For
the spread frame models with the ISO (rubber) motor mounts, replace the rubber
mounts with a set of our solid steel motor mounts or remove the rails and
fabricate a minimum 1/4" thick plate steel, set it at the right height and
weld it to the frame. But the engine mounting holes and oil drain plug hole
must be properly located (centered) and drilled in the plate first.
Return To Previous Page
How to remove the driveshaft/clutch assembly from a Cub Cadet:
- Remove the engine. The 3-pin clutch drive plate remains on the engine and it slides out of the driveshaft and clutch disc when the engine is removed.
- Unfasten the clutch release lever from the frame and the adjusting rod.
-
There's a roll-pin in the tubular or flex arm driveshaft coupler that fastens
onto the input shaft in the transaxle. Remove it by using a 1/4" roll-pin
punch and a medium sized hammer.
NOTE: This particular roll pin is kind of hard to access from underneath the tractor, especially if it's narrow frame model. So the way I do it is I drill a 1" diameter hole on top of the frame in direct alignment with the pin, which makes it a lot easier to access. After I remove the pin and rebuild the clutch assembly, upon reinstallation, I use a socket in this hole to fasten a hardened steel 1/4" diameter [grade 8 or an Allen head] bolt in the coupler.
And for cosmetic reasons, I
cover up the hole with a chrome plated metal hole plug.
Sometimes the pounding will
bend the input shaft when driving out the roll pin. If this happens, the
input shaft will need to be straightened (and hope it doesn't break later
because the metal has been weakened) or a good used one will need to be
installed. This is why I suggest to everyone that a hardened steel 1/4" bolt
should be used in the coupler because if they ever need to remove the driveshaft
again, removing a bolt would be a lot easier than driving out a stubborn
roll-pin, plus it'll be easier on the input shaft.
- The driveshaft assembly then slides out of the tractor.
How to Disassemble the Clutch Components from the Driveshaft -
To disassemble the clutch components from the driveshaft, first place the front pressure plate hub on slightly open jaws of a bench vise and then use a 1/4" roll pin punch and a medium size hammer to drive out the roll pin. Then the pressure plates, clutch disc throw-out bearing and pressure spring should all slide off the driveshaft.
With
solid motor mounts installed in a Cub Cadet that originally came with an
ISO-mounted engine, the driveshaft will not be able to "move around" with
the engine and there'll be less chance of clutch parts prematurely wearing
or breaking. The rubber flex disc(s) at the end of the driveshaft will be
useless too, and could deteriorate over time. So instead of installing a
solid round coupler, make the coupler arms solid by removing the rubber disc(s)
and install a couple of 3/8" thickness spacers for a single disc, and a couple
of 3/4" thickness spacers for double discs, and then fasten the arms together
with a couple of 3/8" diameter hardened steel bolts. (Nuts are shown as an
example in the picture to the right.) By the way - one rubber flex disc is
3/8" thick. This setup is just as strong as using a solid round coupler,
and it costs a lot less.
Before fastening the arms together
with the spacers, first slide the arms on the driveshaft so they'll be in
perfect alignment with each other, and then tighten the bolts. See the picture
to the right. Also, leave out the 5/8" diameter [swivel/spacer] steel ball.
It'll be useless and serve no purpose when using solid motor mounts and when
making the coupler arms solid.
FYI - Many pullers convert the hydrostatic drive Cub Cadet models 109, 129, 149 and 169 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) and models 1250, 1450 and 1650 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) into a clutch-drive tractor. All that's needed are the clutch assembly with the hanger bracket for the release lever and a complete transaxle out of a model 86, 108, 128 (wide frames, solid mounted engine) or models 800, 1000 or 1200 (wide frames, ISO-mounted engine) gear drive Cub Cadet. A set of our solid motor mounts will be needed also if the tractor originally has rubber motor mounts. The braking mechanism out of a wide frame Cub Cadet will also be needed.
Do not fasten the two brackets
directly together on the "Original" Cub Cadet because the driveshaft needs
to move up or down to tighten the drive belt to the engine. Leave the flexible
rubber disc in place, even for pulling. Or install a 5/8" universal joint.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below,
please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd.
| Columbia, MO 65203 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
|
 Repair your worn OEM Cub
Cadet driveshaft coupler. Center of coupler is bored for a press-fit steel
sleeve, sleeve is reamed to .626" in metal lathe, then roll pin holes are
drilled for a snug fit on driveshaft and input shaft.
|
 OEM stock-length, 3"
aftermarket, one-piece couplers to replace the flex coupler arms on Quietline
Cub Cadets, and custom-length driveshaft couplers, up to 6" in length. Made
of tough 3/16" wall thickness 4140 chrome-moly steel.
NOTE: When ordering, please specify model of Cub
Cadet, overall length and roll pin hole locations.
|
For the rear coupler on a Cub
Cadet driveshaft: Use 2" long grade 8 bolts. For strength, the shank (unthreaded
part) of the bolt needs to make full contact with the coupler and driveshaft.
And as long as the driveshaft is in correct alignment with the transaxle
input shaft and crankshaft, with the roll pins holes in-line with each other,
and not offset 90°, this will not cause the driveshaft to "shake around"
or vibrate whatsoever.
For pulling applications, rubber motor mounts (and the flexible coupler at the rear of the driveshaft) absorbs horsepower, which must be transferred to the rear tires for full power to the track. The rubber motor mounts will also cause the engine to vibrate excessively at high rpm. Plus, with normal use of the tractor, rubber motor mounts could cause the flexible 3-pin drive plate and/or the driveshaft to eventually break. If a tractor that has rubber motor mounts and a flexible coupler is going to be used for pulling competition, definitely install some metal motor mounts.
Advertisement:
 If you need a set of
solid steel motor mounts, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
| 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Details include:
Go here for more parts: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
Use quality spiral (or coiled) roll-pins for driveshafts to prevent the
possibility of breakage. Spiral roll-pins are much stronger than the "spring"
or "C" type roll-pins. And all Cub Cadet driveshafts require the spiral
roll-pins. Also, use a quality-made 1/4" roll-pin punch tool to remove the
roll-pins. And whenever a roll-pin is removed, one end will probably get
"mushroomed" or flared out. Making reinstallation almost impossible. So before
reinstalling reusable roll-pins, bevel one end (grind to a dull point) to
make the installation easier.
Advertisement:
 If you need some heavy duty replacement spiral (or coiled)
roll-pins for your driveshaft or 3-pin drive plate, please contact A-1 Miller's
Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203 USA
| Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
|
If the adjusting rod in your tractor is badly worn or if you bought a Cub Cadet without one, then here's the dimensions to make your own:
For all narrow frame Cub Cadets:
Start with a 3/8" diameter steel rod that's 10-1/2" in total length. The
3/8-24 NF threads are 4-7/8" in length. Install a nut on the threads for
the compression spring. Do not drill a hole for a cotter! (This will weaken
the rod, which could cause it to break.) The hole for the pedal return spring
is 5/32" in diameter. The long part is 9-3/8" to the inside of the bend.
The short part is 7/8" to the inside of the bend. NOTE: Heat the rod with
an acetylene torch to make the 90º bend. Because cold bending
may cause the metal to crack at the bend.
For the wide frame Cub Cadets:
Start with a 3/8" diameter steel rod that's 13-1/2" in total length. The
3/8-24 NF threads are 3-1/2" in length. Install a nut on the threads for
the compression spring. Do not drill a hole for a cotter! (This will weaken
the rod, which could cause it to break.) The hole for the outer cotter pin
is 5/32" in diameter. The inner cotter pin hole is also 5/32" in diameter
and located 1/2" from the first hole. The long part is 11-5/16" to the inside
of the bend. The short part is 1-13/16" to the inside of the bend. NOTE:
Heat the rod with an acetylene torch to make the 90º bend. Because
cold bending may cause the metal to crack at the bend.
Also, install the compression spring over the threaded end of the adjusting rod. The compression spring holds the release lever forward to take pressure off the throw-out bearing.
|
 The OEM aluminum clutch drive hub have been known to hold
up well even in a highly modified garden pulling tractor as long as the
original 1/4" thick x no less than 1-1/4" o.d. flat washer is installed under
the flywheel nut or bolt, and using hardened 1/4" bolts with split lockwashers
to fasten the drive plate to the hub. The main causes of breakage is
running out-of-balance clutch parts and/or mostly not installing the large
flat washer as described above under the nut or bolt. Otherwise, they're
pretty tough. |
If an OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate is bent next to the roll-pin
collars, well, to fix this...
- Straighten the pins/collars with a hammer the best you can. Place a clutch disc with unworn holes over the pins to insure they're properly straightened.
- Securely weld each collar to the plate. Try to apply an even amount of weld around each collar for proper balance and to reduce vibration. It's also a good idea to weld the collars on a drive plate that's not bent, to insure it will not get bent in the future.
- True all rotating clutch parts (drive plate and pressure plates) in a metal lathe that has a 3-jaw self-centering scroll chuck to reduce vibration, wear on the pilot bushing and possible driveshaft breakage at high rpms.
If the bronze pilot bushing in a drive plate is excessively worn, this means the pressure plates are badly out of balance and/or there was no lubricating grease applied to the bushing upon installation. In either case, the pressure plates will need to be trued up in a metal lathe that has a 3-jaw self-centering scroll chuck for proper balance so they'll turn true and won't wobble. Don't forget to resurface them, too. IMPORTANT: To insure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below,
please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd.
| Columbia, MO 65203 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Go here for more quality parts and services: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
|
 Reconditioned
OEM 3-pin drive plates -These come with a new bronze pilot bushing and if needed, new spiral roll-pins. $45.00 each plus shipping & handling. (When available.) These and the drive plates I make are for the narrow frame and solid-mounted engine wide frame Cub Cadets. (Models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128.) These models have the solid mounted engine, no rubber motor mounts. If you want to use either of these plates in an ISO-Mount tractor (models 800, 1000 and 1200), then a set of our solid motor mounts must also be installed. And I can't make a flexible 3-pin clutch driver. They're an OEM Cub Cadet dealer item only. |
 Hardened steel drive pins
for our heavy duty clutch drive plate and MTD's Cub Cadet 3-pin drive plate.
$1.50 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Repair pilot bushing
hole that's worn too big for OEM pilot bushing.
|
|
 Convert your
OEM 3-pin clutch drive plate into a 6-pin, install 3 grade 8
studs/nuts/lockwashers, and true-up plate in metal lathe.
|
|
 Heavy Duty,
All Steel Clutch Drive Plates!
Available with 3 or 6 drive pins. Plate made of 3/16" thickness steel. Heavy duty, 1/3 thicker and 80% stronger than OEM drive plates; recommended for pulling tractors running unlimited rpm using a single or a double-disc clutch setup. These precision made, high quality drive plates come with a new bronze pilot bushing and grade 8 bolts for drive pins. Weighs under 2 lbs.
NOTE: When using the 6-pin drive plate, three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch disc(s) to match the location of the six drive pins. |
|
 Heavy Duty,
All Steel Clutch Drive Plate for when the engine is reversed in a Cub
Cadet!
Fabricated 3- or 6-pin, 3/16" plate thickness. Heavy duty, 1/3 thicker and 80% stronger than OEM; recommended for pulling tractors running unlimited rpm using a single or a double-disc clutch setup. When ordering, please specify the diameter for the PTO shaft on the engine. Weighs about 3 lbs.
NOTE: Three additional holes must be drilled in the clutch discs to match the location of the six drive pins. These precision made, high quality drive plates come with a new bronze pilot bushing (you install) and hardened steel studs (bolts) are installed as drive pins. And a 3/4" hole MUST be drilled into end of crankshaft for pilot bushing. Go here for more parts: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
|
New OEM-quality bronze pilot
bushing.
Additional Clutch Parts -
 Flywheel retaining bolts
for threaded hole in end of crankshaft. Each are grade 5, 1-1/2" long.
Available in....
|
 Flywheel
retaining nuts for threaded stud on end of crankshaft. Self-tightening jam
nuts. Guaranteed to stay tight!
Available in....
|
 Steel flat washer for retaining flywheel and/or aluminum Cub
Cadet clutch hub adapter to flywheel. A must to secure flywheel and to prevent
hub breakage! Available in 3/8", 5/8" or 3/4" diameter center hole. 1-1/4"
o.d. x approximately 1/4" thick. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
 Steel
adapter step-washer for mounting the aluminum clutch hub with a 5/8" hole
to the Kohler Magnum crankshaft with a 3/8" bolt. A must to prevent hub breakage!
$8.00 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: I can also custom
machine other adapter washers to fit your particular application. All I need
are the dimensions. |
| Used OEM Aluminum Clutch Drive
Hubs with either a 3/8" (Magnum cranks) or 5/8" (K-series cranks) center
hole. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When
available.) |
 1/4" diameter x 3/4" long
hardened steel dowel pin for aluminum clutch hub. Secures aluminum hub to
flywheel to prevent slippage. .50¢ each, plus shipping &
handling. |
Resurfacing and Trueing Up Worn and Warped Pressure Plates -
For any clutch disc to hold well and to prevent slippage, both pressure plates must be perfectly flat and free of wear. Therefore, both pressure plates MUST be resurfaced (trued-up to prevent wobble) in a metal lathe! Chances are, the fiber clutch disc is worn to match the wear on the pressure plates. If the clutch disc is worn, but still reusable, it can be resurfaced in the lathe as well. For best clutch adhesion and to lessen the chance of slippage, the clutch-to-pressure plates surface contact areas must be flat against flat for 100% contact. But if you need a new fiber clutch disc, the OEM Cub Cadet part number is 761-3002. (Sandwiched steel plate with asbestos lining.)
Warped pressure plates will allow a single or even double clutches to slip. They warp due to overheating and normal wear. When they get warped, they don't have full contact with the entire surface of the clutch disc. Whenever a new clutch disc is installed, rather if it's an OEM one or made of aluminum, the pressure plates should always be resurfaced and trued up in a metal lathe. New OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are stamped in a press and not machined in a lathe. This means they're not as flat or turn as true as ones that's been machined in a lathe. Therefore, if new or used pressure plates are going to be used for pulling or heavy yard work, have the outer edge trued up and then have the clutch contact area resurfaced in a metal lathe.
The OEM Cub Cadet pressure plates are 3/16" (.188") thick. On the average, approximately .005" of metal is removed from the face of each pressure plate after it has been resurfaced. Removing this much metal won't weaken the plates whatsoever, even when used with a very stout pressure spring.
With both pressure plates properly resurfaced, the single OEM fiber clutch, with 4-1/2" diameter pressure plates, has a total disc to plate contact area of 17.7 square inches. When doubled (as in double clutches including the 4-1/2" diameter center drive plate), it has a total contact area of 36 square inches. This is why double clutches hold so well in pulling. It's the same as using a bigger clutch that has more contact area. And double-clutches will have even more contact area with 4-5/8" diameter pressure plates!
The aluminum disc on the other hand (as described in this web site), has a total contact area of 29.8 square inches. You may look at this disc and ask, "where's the friction material?" Well, the aluminum itself is the friction material. A single aluminum disc will adhere to (grip) steel a lot better than a single OEM Cub Cadet fiber clutch disc. Both of these type of clutches (the single aluminum and double-OEM fiber clutch disc), when used with a cultivator spring kit, has been proven to hold very well in pulling. If everything is machined, precision balanced, installed and adjusted correctly, the aluminum or double-disc clutch system including the driveshaft could possibly last the life of the tractor. Even when used in high-performance conditions.
IMPORTANT: To insure true flatness when resurfacing pressure plates, use a lathe that's in good condition with very little wear on the ways!
Save the Hubs!
If the discs in your pressure plates are heavily rusted, worn too thin or warped badly and resurfacing them in a lathe didn't do any good, instead of making two entirely new pressure plates, what could be done is remove the center hub from each disc with a hydraulic press and then reuse them to make two new pressure plates. This would save from having to fabricate a couple of new hubs.
Advertisement:
| If you're interested in the service listed below, please contact A-1
Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203
USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033.
Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please
try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because
I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Your pressure plates professionally resurfaced and trued up. $7.50
each, plus return shipping & handling. Go here for more parts: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
Making the Aluminum Clutch Disc Engage Smoothly -
The OEM Cub Cadet cushion spring (as it is called in the early/narrow frame Cub Cadets) or teaser spring (as it is called in the later models/wide and spread frame Cub Cadets) goes between the rear pressure plate and throw-out bearing. It's purpose is to allow the rear pressure plate to move forward and gently press against the clutch disc without having a "jerky" clutch. It can be replaced with a steel spacer, and a lockwasher can be installed between the pressure plates (dead center of the clutch disc) for even smoother clutch engagement, especially when using an aluminum clutch disc with a heavy pressure spring. Do not use the lockwasher between the pressure plates if using the stock OEM pressure spring.
If the aluminum clutch disc doesn't engage smoothly, remove the 5/8" lockwasher from between the pressure plates and then install a thick flat washer, then the 5/8" lock washer and then another thick flat washer (so they'll all total to about 3/8" in height with the lockwasher uncompressed) in place of the teasing spring.
For a narrow frame tractor, the steel spacer will need to be 3/8" in length. For a wide frame, it's 5/8" long or use the OEM retainer cup (protective sleeve) that originally comes on the driveshaft.
If a retainer cup or "protective sleeve" is not used, sometimes the teaser
spring will become destroyed or distorted from normal use or by the extreme
pressure from a very stiff pressure spring.
To
prevent this from happening and to help the clutch(es) to engage more smoothly,
first replace the teasing spring with a piece of heavy wall round steel tubing
that measures 7/8" o.d. x 1/2" long x 41/64" i.d. Then install an ordinary
zinc-plated 5/8" i.d. split lockwasher between the pressure plates, dead
center of the clutch disc(es). The order of installing the clutch parts goes
like this: it's pressure plate, lockwasher, pressure plate, spacer, throw-out
bearing and then pressure spring. The lockwasher does two things - it acts
like a spring, which forces the pressure plates apart, it provides smooth
clutch engagement and it'll help to prevent the possibility of the clutch
disc from "grabbing" upon take-off. In addition, the spring-like action of
the lockwasher will expand the pressure plates when the clutch/brake pedal
is fully depressed so they will release from the clutch disc. Doing this
will guarantee that the clutch will engage smoothly and release every time.
So when reassembling a clutch assembly, don't install the cushion/teaser
spring. Instead, install the spacer and lockwasher as described above. You'll
be glad you did.
NOTE: If you're using an OEM fiber clutch disc with an OEM pressure spring, there's no need for the lockwasher and steel spacer. Just install the OEM teasing spring and the clutch should engage smoothly without slipping.
NOTE: With the clutch fully engaged, sometimes air will get trapped between the pressure plates, which will at times create a vacuum seal and the clutch won't want to release easily. To prevent this from happening, drill a small hole through one of the pressure plates close to the center so air can be relieved from within the center of the clutch disc.
How to Fix a "Sticking" Cub Cadet Clutch (when it won't release) -
Before reassembling the clutch, apply a light film of grease on the driveshaft where the rear pressure plate slides back and forth. If this was already done, and it still won't release, an ordinary 5/8" split lockwasher (made of zinc plated steel) may need to be installed between the pressure plates to spread (or force) them apart when the clutch pedal is depressed. Also, while the rear pressure plate off the driveshaft, make sure it doesn't bind on the shaft or on the roll pin. If it does, smooth the driveshaft or widen the roll pin slot slightly with a file. And it'll be a good idea to drill a small hole near the center of the pressure plates to relieve the air that gets trapped between the pressure plates.
Advertisement:
| If you need a 5/8" split lockwasher and a steel spacer to replace
the teasing spring, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises |
1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Go here for more parts: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
5/8" Split Lockwasher and
Steel Spacer Kit. Replaces teasing spring, except for Quietline models.
Included with aluminum clutch disc kit. Not for use with stock
OEM pressure spring. Use with cultivator spring kit.
$5.00 per set, plus shipping & handling.
New OEM Cub Cadet Teasing Spring.
$5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
The Clutch Release Lever Support Pin -
If the 3/8" diameter OEM support pin that goes through the
clutch release lever is worn, this part should be replaced with an angled
pin. If the clutch parts are out of balance, or even slightly out of balance,
and as the engine runs with the clutch fully engaged (foot off the clutch
pedal, of course), engine vibration causes the pin to spin, causing the pin
itself and bracket holes to wear. The holes in the release lever rarely wear
because the lever is made of heat-treated steel. By replacing the round pin
with an "L" shaped angled pin, it can't spin. Therefore, the parts will last
longer, the throw-out (clutch release) bearing will last longer, they'll
be less noise coming from the clutch parts and clutch adjustment will remain
the same for a longer time. (I think that IH Cub Cadet should have originally
installed an angled pin in their tractors. But then again, they probably
didn't plan on their tractors being used 30-40 years later.)
Advertisement:
| If you need an "L" shape
angle support pin, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises |
1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
"L" shape angle support pin for clutch release lever. 3/8" diameter. Prevents holes in release lever and support bracket from being worn by spinning round OEM pin. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Go here for more parts: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
Saving a Used Throw-Out (Clutch Release) Bearing -
If
a used throw-out bearing is still pretty much "tight," but sounds noisy or
"rattles" when you spin it by hand, it could be saved from further wear by
pumping it full of automotive chassis lube. The same can be done to a new
bearing to insure that it will last a long time. (I've done this many
times when I rebuild clutch assemblies and have never had one complaint!)
The fresh grease will help keep the balls within the bearing lubricated and
cool, preventing them from further wear. But if the bearing is badly worn
or if you're in doubt about doing this, install a new one. (Cub Cadet part
# 741-3056)
When assembling the clutch components,
never install the throw-out bearing on the driveshaft backwards! Install
it with the collar (the center part that sticks out) towards the clutch disc.
How To Save A Used Throw-Out Bearing:
-
Drill a 3/32" hole in the grease/dust seal on the back side of the bearing.
- Wash the entire bearing in cleaning solvent until the rollers are free of the drill cuttings and dirt on the inside. It's clean when the sound changes when it's spun by hand and when it spins more freely.
- Use compressed air to blow dry the entire bearing, including the inside. But don't spin the bearing with the air! Doing this could further damage the bearing!
- Using either a chainsaw bar tip grease gun or a needle grease injector (resembles a hypodermic syringe) that attaches to a grease gun, pump the bearing through the drilled hole until it's full of grease. Turn the bearing 180º and pump it again. It's full when the grease starts to ooze out of the dust seals.
- Wipe the grease from around the hole with a clean rag and apply a dab of RTV adhesive silicone sealant (clear color) over the hole. The bearing is now good for another 10,000 miles!
The same procedure above can be done to many types of used precision, high-speed sealed roller bearings, besides just throw-out bearings. And for anyone who's ever wondered about this, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed, the throw-out bearing moves back 3/8" on the driveshaft.
By the way - the throw-out bearing used in the model 582 is different than other models. It's an ordinary sealed high speed ball bearing with a sleeve pressed into it. It measures .780" i.d. x 1.850" o.d. x .550" wide. The number is 6204R5 and 180204. These are not Timken numbers. They will need to be cross-referenced.
Advertisement:
| If you need a new clutch release throw-out bearing, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Build up welding in clutch release lever in worn area where throw-out bearing makes contact, and grind it smooth. $10.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. More parts: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
New clutch release throw-out
bearing. For IH Cub Cadet models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106,
122, 124, 126, 108, 128 and 582. $25.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. Part # 150-543
New clutch release throw-out
bearing. (Precision, high-speed sealed roller bearing.) For IH models 800,
1000 & 1200. And MTD-built models 580, 582, 1050, 1535, 1604, 1606 &
1806. (Bearing only, reuse center hub.) $10.00 each, plus shipping
& handling. Part # 116-681
The Pedal Return Spring & Maintaining Proper Clutch Adjustment -
Install
the pedal return spring to keep from wearing both the throw-out bearing and
release lever. Don't just install a cotter pin in place of it. A pedal
return spring is a short, very stiff, expansion spring with a hook on each
end. The size is approximately 3/4" diameter x 2-1/8" in overall length.
And remember to never "ride the clutch." This means keep your foot off the
clutch pedal when pulling or operating the tractor!
The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the adjusting rod to a hole in the crossmember that's in the tractor's frame. Install one end of the spring in the linkage first, then install the other end in the crossmember. NOTE: It may be difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done and it MUST be done. (I do it all the time with our muscles, Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small prybar.)
There are no adjustments for the pedal return spring. It's job is to prevent the release lever from making connect with a throw-out bearing when the clutch pedal is fully disengaged. The pedal return spring attaches from the adjusting rod that runs from the release lever back to the bell crank that's on the clutch/brake pedal shaft. This shaft goes crossways through the frame of the tractor. It is very important that the tractor have a pedal return spring to prevent wearing of the throw-out bearing against the release lever (it will wear, too) while the clutch pedal is fully disengaged and the tractor is in operation.
If a pedal return spring is not installed or if the operator "rides the clutch" when pulling or when the tractor is in operation (keeping one's foot on the clutch pedal at all times), this will cause the throw-out bearing to spin the same speed as the engine, wearing it out prematurely. This will also wear the release lever as well. So making the proper adjustment and not "riding the clutch" will help the throw-out bearing last a very long time. The return spring connects from the hole in the end of the adjusting rod to a hole in the crossmember in the tractor's frame. NOTE: It may be somewhat difficult to get the end of the spring in the hole because of the tension, but it can be done, and it must be done. (I do it all the time with our Vise Grips and a little leverage from our trusty small prybar.)
No part of the release lever should make contact with the throw-out bearing when the clutch is fully engaged. If it does, and with the engine running, the driveshaft will spin the throw-out bearing, causing it to wear prematurely. In other words, the throw-out bearing will turn the same rpm as the engine. Therefore, there must be approximately .050" of clearance between the release lever & throw-out bearing. To determine this distance, adjust the nut on the adjusting rod that's on the release lever until there's about 9/32" of clearance between the pedal arm & pedal stop. And if your tractor doesn't already have one, definitely install a spring on the adjusting rod to the crossmember that's between the frame rails so the pressure will be taken off the bearing. Return To Previous Paragraph
Advertisement:
| If
you need a new pedal return spring, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
New Pedal Return Springs. A must to prevent premature wear to throw-out bearing and clutch release lever! $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Go here for more parts: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
Information About the Pressure Spring -
If a light-weight tractor with a governed engine (up to 4,000 rpm) is going to be used for general yard work, it's okay to use the stock OEM Cub Cadet pressure spring with the OEM fiber clutch disc. A good used stock OEM pressure spring and a new OEM spring should measure no less than 6-1/2" in uncompressed length. The maximum length is 7". But the compressed length (on the driveshaft with the clutch pedal fully depressed) is 5". If a spring has been used on a driveshaft with an overheated or burned-out throw-out bearing, it's best to replace both. And if the pressure plates have been resurfaced, but the clutch still slips in the heavier chores, perhaps a cultivator spring kit may need to be installed. (See below.)
For the pressure plates to grip the clutch disc(s) firmly, the pressure spring must be a very stout one. The Cub Cadet pressure spring has about 250 psi of pressure and will probably not prevent the clutch from slipping in a pulling tractor. Therefore, a cultivator spring works excellent with the OEM clutch disc, aluminum disc or double OEM clutches. The cultivator spring has about a 500 psi rating, which is more than enough for use with most types of clutch discs. Also, the cultivator spring isn't large enough in the outside diameter to interfere with the steering box. However, the cross member will need to be notched-out to make room for the larger diameter cultivator spring. Plus, the tension of the cultivator spring is easy on the clutch adjusting rod/linkage and your leg muscles! It's ideal for small kids to use. Return To Previous Paragraph
Advertisement:
 If you need a cultivator
spring kit for your Cub Cadet, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Cultivator Spring Kit. Has about twice the pressure of OEM Cub Cadet clutch pressure springs. Dimensions: 7" long x 1-3/8" o.d. x 7/8" i.d. $30.00 each kit, plus shipping & handling. Used OEM Cub Cadet pressure springs. Good for ordinary yard work. Not recommended for competitive pulling. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Go here for more parts: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
Use ALUMINUM as Clutch Disc Material!
NOTE: If an aluminum clutch disc is used in a high rpm tractor, I found they won't work as well because after a while the aluminum will get galled, and the clutch could become "grabby." The aluminum disc works best in a stock tractor with the engine running at a maximum of 4,000 rpm. Therefore, a double fiber clutch disc set up with a cultivator pressure spring may to be installed.
If a single OEM fiber clutch disc slips in a stock pulling tractor, then what is required to prevent clutch slippage is to install a single piece of machined aluminum to serve as a clutch disc. With resurfaced pressure plates and a cultivator pressure spring, aluminum should grip and hold up well when used in a stock garden pulling tractor. By the way, the OEM sandwiched steel fiber clutch disc and an aluminum clutch disc weighs almost the same; about 10.6 ounces each.
The aluminum clutch disc works best for low rpm stock engines. I use the aluminum clutch disc in our stock pulling tractors and the double OEM-fiber clutches in our higher horsepower tractors. I haven't had any problems with either clutches for several years.
If a single, lightweight aluminum clutch disc is used, there's no need to install three extra studs in the 3-pin drive plate (see below Ê). But definitely have both pressure plates resurfaced as described above. Depending on the size of engine and weight of tractor, the aluminum clutch disc requires a tougher driveshaft along with a cultivator spring kit. And it'll be a good idea to install a center support bearing (pillow block bearing) to prevent the driveshaft from wobbling at 4,000 rpm. Also, if the pressure plates are properly resurfaced and if aluminum is used, the aluminum won't excessively wear or melt onto them.
The
biggest mistake a puller can make when launching a tractor is letting the
clutch out all of a sudden with the engine revved up. So when using aluminum
as a clutch disc (or any metallic clutch material), and when the tractor
is hooked to the sled, always remember to "slip" the clutch upon take-off.
To do this, first rev up the engine (a lot), and then slowly ease out
on the clutch pedal. Because an aluminum clutch disc may not "slip" at
low rpm, and because aluminum adheres to steel very well when under pressure,
if the pedal is let out all of a sudden with the engine revved up, and if
the tires don't spin, something could break or get damaged in the drivetrain
or transaxle. The 5/8" lockwasher that's placed between the pressure plates
will aide greatly in smooth clutch engagement/release and it lessens the
possibility of the clutch from "grabbing" upon take-off.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below, or if you
need your clutch assembly rebuilt or need some clutch parts as described
in this web site, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501
W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203 USA |
Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please
call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again
later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.)
Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Go here for more parts: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
 New fiber material clutch
disc for Cub Cadet garden tractors.
IMPORTANT - Both pressure plates should be resurfaced (machined flat) in a metal lathe, or severe slippage may result. FYI - About 90% of the fiber material in clutch discs will chip off were the holes are drilled due to three reasons:
|
 New (6061 alloy; medium-grade
hardness) machined aluminum clutch disc kit with (3) 13/32" holes for the
3-pin drive plate. This is a direct replacement for Cub Cadet's OEM fiber
clutch disc. Comes with 6 holes and can be used with either a 3- or 6-pin
drive plate. Made of the highest quality aluminum available. The disc is
turned in our metal lathe and then the holes are precision-drilled in a super
spacer on our milling machine. Each aluminum clutch disc comes with a
5/8" i.d. split lockwasher and a steel spacer to replace the cushion/teaser
spring. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
IMPORTANT - Both pressure plates MUST be resurfaced
(machined flat in a metal lathe) before using the aluminum clutch disc, or
severe slippage may result!
And the lockwasher and steel spacer requires that a stiffer pressure spring, such as the cultivator spring kit, to be used so the lockwasher will collapse enough so the clutch will grip better. The lockwasher don't work well with Cub Cadet's OEM pressure spring. |
 Aluminum-Disc Clutch
Setup for IH or MTD-built Cub Cadets with a stock-to-medium horsepower
engine. You send or bring me your complete clutch assembly, with everything
on the driveshaft including the 3-pin drive plate and rear coupler, and I
will build or rebuild it according to your needs. Labor includes disassemble,
cleaning and inspection of the entire clutch assembly, trueing up the outer
edge of your 3-pin drive plate and pressure plates and also resurface (machine
flat) the pressure plates in my metal lathe and then reassemble of the entire
unit. When I return the clutch assembly to you, it's fully assembled and
ready to install in your tractor. Price varies according to which parts can
be reused or need replacing.
The total for a complete aluminum clutch clutch setup outright is $370.00, plus shipping. Double-Disc (OEM Material) Clutch Setup for IH or MTD-built Cub Cadets with a higher horsepower engine. You send or bring me your complete clutch assembly, with everything on the driveshaft including the 3-pin drive plate and rear coupler, and I will build or rebuild it according to your needs. Labor includes disassemble, cleaning and inspection of the entire clutch assembly, trueing up the outer edge of your 3-pin drive plate and pressure plates and also resurface (machine flat) the pressure plates in my metal lathe and then reassemble of the entire unit. When I return the clutch assembly to you, it's fully assembled and ready to install in your tractor. Price varies according to which parts can be reused or need replacing. If you want, you can save some money by furnishing some of the parts yourself. The total for a complete aluminum clutch clutch setup outright is $400.00, plus shipping. NOTE: These clutch assemblies are made to order. When ordering, please specify the model of Cub Cadet you have, type of clutch, driveshaft material, etc. If you're not sure which clutch will be best for your tractor, just tell me how you're going to use your tractor and I'll choose the best setup to suit your needs. Rebuild MTD Farm King clutch assembly. Approximately $700.00 for parts and labor, depending on which parts needs to be replaced and/or machined. Return shipping extra. Repair MWSC's clutch assembly so it will release easier: $25.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. |
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts and/or services listed below,
please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd.
| Columbia, MO 65203 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Go here for more parts: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
|
 Mild steel center drive
plate (disc) for double OEM clutches. Dimensions: approximately 4-1/2" diameter
x .133" thickness x 5/8" center hole. $20.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
 New
high-quality pillow block bearing w/cast iron housing. A must for high
rpm pulling engines to prevent driveshaft breaking! $25.00 each,
plus shipping & handling. |
 Brace
to Support Pillow Block Bearing. Made of 1/8" thickness angle steel with
holes drilled. Important! Before installing this brace in tractor
frame, first install driveshaft connected to transaxle, then bolt in the
engine. This will guarantee the pillow block bearing is perfectly aligned
(centered) with the driveshaft. And then weld brace to tractor frame.
$20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. |
|
There are 4 steps in Installing a Double-Disc Clutch Setup
Step #1 - "Notch" the Release Lever and Relocate it's Bracket:
There are two options of doing this. Either way you choose to do it, you
will need to make room for the extra clutch disc and center drive plate.
Option #1:
- Relocate the bracket that the release lever is connected to rearward 3/8". Or for a very stiff pressure spring, use a piece of minimum 3/16" thickness angled steel to fasten the bracket onto, and then weld the angled steel to the frame. Be sure the angled steel is located 3/8" further back than the original bracket was.
Only on the narrow frame Cub Cadets, cut out the lower part of the clutch release lever so it'll clear the steering box, when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed. Also, cut out a place in the frame so the release lever will clear it when the clutch/brake pedal is fully depressed.
- Cut 3/8" off the threaded end of the clutch adjusting rod. If this is not done, the rod will be too long and interfere with the rear clutch disc.
- NOTE: The steel spacer that replaces the teasing spring can't be left out for double clutches because the longer studs (cut-off bolts) in the drive plate would hit the release lever when the clutch is engaged.
Option #2:
Instead of relocating the bracket and notching the lever, the engine mounting holes that's in the frame can be welded up, grind the weld flat and then drill some new holes exactly 3/8" forward (toward the front of the tractor) from the original holes. You'll also need a longer driveshaft, 3/8" longer to be exact. And you'll need to drill the #1 hole forward 3/8" and then drill the other holes same as in the original driveshaft.When using a deep sump oil pan, with the front axle in the stock position and when moving the engine forward, the axle pivot pin would interfere with the pan. For pulling competitively, the front axle would need to be moved as far forward as it'll go for better weight distribution. But if your club's rules don't allow the front axle to be moved forward, then a flat bottom oil pan can be used, and then the engine can be moved forward with no problems. Of course, half of the dipper on the connecting rod would need to be cut off, too.
Either the engine can be moved forward or the bracket moved rearward. Either way, one or the other will need to be relocated to accommodate for the extra clutch disc and center plate so the clutch will function properly.
Using a Volkswagen Clutch Assembly in a Cub Cadet -
The third type of clutch that some pullers use is a Volkswagen clutch assembly (starter, flywheel, clutch disc, pressure plate and throw-out bearing and release lever) adapted to the Kohler crankshaft with a special-made tapered hub adapter. This type of clutch is made for the 1974 VW's and earlier with the air-cooled engine. They weigh more than the double clutch assembly as described above (about 22 lbs. lighter, less hub) and they hold extremely well even in a highly modified (50+ c.i.) garden tractor. Also, the VW flywheel, starter ring gear and clutch assembly requires the VW starter. An adapter that replaces the Kohler-type flywheel must be fastened onto the crankshaft for the VW flywheel to work. And the starter must be adapted onto the Kohler engine block with a special bracket. The VW clutch comes in two sizes, 180mm and 200mm, with the 180mm being the choice for garden tractor pulling. This type of starter and clutch assembly is losing popularity with pullers who run the 50+ c.i. garden tractors because of it's excessive [forward] weight.
Improving International Harvester's "Original" Cub Cadet (belt-to-clutch-drive) Clutch Assembly - (Updated 11/24/08) Top of page
The first Cub Cadet model made was the International Cub Cadet tractor, better
known as the Original. The reason this particular tractor is called the
"Original" is because they're the very first Cub Cadet garden tractor that
International Harvester produced. They didn't have a model number because
they were all built basically the same. That's why most folks nowadays call
them the "Original" Cub Cadet.
On these type of tractors, the power from the engine is transferred from a small pulley onto a larger pulley by use of a V belt, which act like a gear reduction. It's approximately a 1.6:1 reduction. This means that engine torque is increased 1.6 times to the driveshaft because the clutch/driveshaft assembly turns 1.6 times slower than the engine.
If the clutch holds well, but won't release at times, this means the sliding parts on the driveshaft are dry or the old grease has accumulated dirt and/or has "dried up," causing the parts to bind on the driveshaft.
How to Disassemble and Reassemble the Original Clutch Assembly -
- Use a big bench vise to disassemble and reassemble the clutch assembly.
- Place the front of the driveshaft in the jaws of the vise (with a couple of soft aluminum angled pieces placed in the vice jaws, of course), and tighten down the jaws
- Use a big hammer to drive the driveshaft forward until the first roll pin can be removed.
- Remove the driveshaft from the vise, and slide off the pressure plates and clutch/pulley.
- Place the driveshaft in the vise again, and butt the splined piece against the jaws of the vise and remove the pin from the splined piece.
- Place a small screwdriver in the front roll pin hole (so the driveshaft so it won't shoot out of the vise) and then carefully loosen the vise to remove it.
- Reassembly is the opposite of disassembly.
But if the clutch slips, performing the following should cure the problem:
First, resurface the pressure plates on a flat belt or large disc sander. If the clutch discs (which is part of the pulley) aren't worn excessively, they can be sanded flat as well to match the flatness of the pressure plates. Just remove the raised places, no more. But if the fiber material is worn thin or if you have doubts that it won't grip well, then install new clutch facings on the pulley.
If the clutch fiber material "peels off" or comes loose from the pulley, it can be reattached with Super Glue or any high-strength adhesive or glue. As soon as the fiber material is glued on the pulley, place the clutch/pulley assembly between two thick flat steel plates to cover the entire fiber material and then place them in a hydraulic press and apply light pressure to squeeze out any air bubbles that may get trapped so the fiber material will have a stronger bond and lay flat. If a hydraulic press isn't available, then using one of the tires that's on a car or truck will place enough pressure, too. After the glue has dried, lightly sand the fiber material on a large flat sanding disc or belt sander to insure true flatness.
As far as I'm aware of, new clutch fiber material is not available from any source. I were lucky once to find some material that matched the original perfectly. Of course, I had to do some trimming so they'll fit. (I have no more of this material left.) I then attach the material as described in the paragraph above.
For even better clutch adhesion or "holding power," the OEM pressure spring can be replaced with a cultivator spring kit. Be sure to drill the 3rd hole to 1/4" and install a heavy spiral roll pin, too! Install a new bronze bushing in the throw-out bearing if it's worn. Then lubricate the throw-out bearing through the factory-installed grease fitting. Under normal use, the throw-out bearing needs to be lubricated once a year.
Advertisement:
| If you need any of the parts and/or services below, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no
answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient
because I stutter.) Fax:
1-573-449-7347. E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
Go here for more parts: Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
Above 4,000 rpm, bronze bushings
will not last long under side-thrust. Therefore, it'll be a good idea to
have two sealed, high speed ball bearings installed in the clutch/pulley
disc. See the picture below for a better understanding.
Linked pages to our parts & services:
A-1 Miller's Performance
Enterprises |
Engine Rebuild Parts, Engine Rebuilds, Build-ups, Exhaust Header Pipe Kits & Machine Shop Services |
Transmission, Transaxle Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services |
|
Ignition, Electrical and Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition Parts and Kits |
à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Please Sign My Guestbook | Return To Previous Page | Classified Advertisements for Garden Pulling Tractors and Related Parts | Garden Pulling Tractor Engine Builders, Parts Suppliers and Service Providers | Miller's Garden Pulling Tractor Picture Gallery | Pulling Sled for Garden Tractors Picture Gallery | Top of Page
Looking for a place to pull your tractor? Then check out this web site: Hot Links for Various Garden Tractor Pulling Clubs and Associations.
© 1996-Present. Designed and maintained by
Brian Miller.
