Starter Motors, Solenoids,
Electrical and Charging Systems
Updated 12/10/11 (Click Refresh.) | Jump to...
- Using a Remote Starter Cart (updated 3/13/08)
- Information on Kohler (and most small engine) Charging Systems (updated 10/29/11)
- Using an Automotive Alternator on a Small Engine (updated 12/10/11)
- Cub Cadet Factory Wiring Diagrams (http://www.cubfaq.com/wiringdiagrams.html)
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Testing the Starting Circuit
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To test the starting circuit on practically any lawn, garden or larger tractor, first, make sure that the battery is fully charged and in good condition, and the cables have a good connection. If the battery is satisfactory and the connections are good, using either a screwdriver, metal rod or jumper wire, activate the starter solenoid by jumping across the large terminal on the solenoid where the heavy battery wire connects, to the small "S" terminal on the solenoid where the starter switch connects. If the solenoid makes a single click sound and if starter motor spins, then the solenoid (and starter motor) is good. If nothing happens, check the wire connections on the terminals and that the solenoid is properly grounded. If it is grounded and still nothing happens, or if the solenoid makes a continuous clicking sound, replace the solenoid. If the ignition switch won't activate the solenoid, then check for a blown fuse, the wiring, safety switches or replace the starter switch.
When testing the starting circuit with a fully charged jumper battery, connect the negative lead to the ground of the tractor and touch the positive lead directly to the terminal on the starter motor. If the engine cranks, then the problem is in the solenoid, starter switch or wiring. But if it just spins without engaging into the flywheel, then the gear teeth is bad or the gear is binding on the spiral. But if the starter motor does nothing or turns slow, then either the bushings needs cleaning and lubricating or it's burned up. Or, the engine itself could be causing the starter to turn slow due to too heavy oil for weather conditions or damage inside the engine.
How to Connect the Wires on the Starter Solenoid -
If a solenoid have just one
3/16" terminal, the solenoid is grounded internally through the mounting
bracket. But if a solenoid has two unmarked 3/16" terminals, the solenoid
is grounded externally through one of the 3/16" terminals. It doesn't matter
which terminal is used. Connect one small terminal to the starter switch
and the other to the ground of the tractor or negative post on the battery.
When electric current is applied, the two small terminals activates a magnetic
field within the solenoid so the plunger that's connected to a brass disc
within can make contact across the two larger terminals to complete the circuit
from the battery positive (+) post to the starter motor. On most larger solenoids
having two marked 3/16" terminals, the one that's marked with an "S" connects
to the starter switch. It activates the solenoid so power can be connected
from the battery through the solenoid to the starter. The "I" terminal is
for the ignition on certain older Ford vehicles ('56 to '88) with point ignition.
When this type of solenoid is used on a garden tractor, just use the "S"
terminal only. The solenoid is grounded through the mounting bracket.
A solenoid (sometimes referred to as an "electric switch") eliminates the use of a very heavy duty [push button] starter switch and heavy wiring throughout the starting circuit.
How to Test a Starter Solenoid -
Tools needed are: ohm meter, fully charged 12 volt battery and four jumper wires with clips. The test is performed as follows:
- Connect the negative (-) post of the battery to the mounting base on the solenoid
- Connect the ohm meter to the two big terminals on the solenoid.
- Connect a jumper wire from the positive (+) post on the battery to the small terminal on the solenoid.
- The solenoid should click, and the ohm meter should show a full scale reading.
- If the solenoid don't click, then it's bad. Or if it does click with no ohms reading between the two big terminals, the solenoid is bad.
To connect the wires on a starter solenoid to activate a starter motor:
- Ground the solenoid to the chassis/frame or the negative (-) post on the battery.
- Connect a heavy wire (8-10 gauge) from one of the big terminals on the solenoid to the positive (+) post on the battery.
- Connect a heavy wire (8-10 gauge) from the other big terminal on the solenoid to the starter motor.
- Connect the small terminal on the solenoid with a small wire (16-18 gauge) to one of the wires or terminals on a push-button starter switch.
- Connect another small wire (16-18 gauge) from the push-button starter switch to the positive (+) post on the battery.
- When the button is pushed, the solenoid should click, sending an electric current through the two big terminals to complete the circuit for the starter motor and activate the starter motor.
Using the Right Type of Starter for Your Particular Engine - Top of page
You're probably wondering with increased compression and with
a high performance camshaft with no compression release on a single cylinder
Kohler engine, what models of gear starters are available that's capable
of cranking the engine with no problem. Well, for the 10hp, 30ci/12hp and
37ci/16hp engines, the OEM gear starter seem to work pretty well as long
as the engine has a heavy [steel] flywheel. But if you need more cranking
power or if you need a quality starter for a 50+ c.i. highly modified engine,
then most import starters have a higher cranking capacity due to more wire
windings on the armature. Or the starter that fits Kohler's twin cylinder
engine models KT17, KT19, KT21, MV16, M18 and M20 can be adapted to the K-series
single cylinder cast iron block engines. The gear teeth on the twin cylinder
starter are a perfect match for the ring gear on the K-series flywheel! But
to use a twin cylinder starter on a single cylinder engine, a sturdy special-made
bracket must be fabricated to mount the starter on side of the block. Also,
certain [high-torque] automotive starters with a special bracket can be used
to crank a high compression Kohler engine, as long as the gear teeth meshes
correctly with the Kohler gear ring and the starter rotates in the right
direction, which is counter-clockwise when facing the shaft.
Popular automotive starters for use on a Kohler engine are as follows:
- Honda - made by Nippondenso or Mitsuba (clockwise rotation - PTO side mounting)
- Nissan - made by Hitachi (counter-clockwise rotation - flywheel side mounting)
- Subaru - made by Nippondenso (counter-clockwise rotation - flywheel side mounting)
- Toyota - made by Nippondenso, used on Camry cars (counter-clockwise rotation - flywheel side mounting)
In some cases, it's not the starter motor who is the culprit of not being able to crank a big cubic inch or high compression engine. Sometimes the ignition timing can be so advanced, the starter tries to crank the engine to start it, but the advanced spark causes the engine to "kick back." To fix this problem, use the same starting technique as the Tecumseh cast iron engine with the crank trigger ignition. Install two separate switches - one being a push button to crank the engine and the other being an ordinary OFF/ON toggle switch. Then crank the engine, choke it and then flip the [ignition] switch to "put the spark to it." This should allow it to start every time.
If an engine is slow at cranking over or will barely crank over, then the first thing to check is the condition of the engine. If it cranks over somewhat easy by hand, then it's probably OK. The next thing to check is the condition of the battery. If it tests good, then check the wire connections and start solenoid (if equipped). If they're OK, then the lat thing to check is the condition of the starter motor. Disassemble it and observe the condition of the wire windings on the armature. If they're dark brown in color and have a burnt smell, then the motor is burned up. But if the windings are light brown or "bronze" in color, then they're in good condition. Clean the commutator (the part on the armature where the brushes make contact) and shaft where the bushings make contact with emery cloth in a metal lathe. Before reassembling the starter, lightly lubricate the bushings with motor oil. If the engine still won't crank over easy, then either the ignition timing is too advanced or the compression release isn't working. Too much valve clearances could also cause hard cranking.
Some starter motors are American made, some are imported. But most are made of excellent quality and manufactured to exceed OEM specifications.
Be
gentle whenever handling a starter motor, especially one with permanent magnets!
Never abuse it by dropping it on the floor or hitting it with a hammer! (Some
people think that by striking a starter with a hammer will fix it if it fails
to operate.) Doing this could, or most likely will, break the fragile ceramic
magnets inside and render it totally useless.
Most quality-made starter motors are designed to last
the life of an engine. Therefore, if a good starter burns up prematurely,
then this means that it's cranked an engine too long at one time. All starters,
including automotive starters, are 6 volt motors operating off of 12 volts.
That's what gives them the extra torque to crank over an engine so fast.
So if one is spun too long, the excessive voltage will burn up the windings.
The longer it's spun, the hotter it gets, which will cause the insulating
coating (varnish) on the wire windings to melt. When the coating melts, the
windings make contact with each other and become shorted out, and you have
a burned up starter on your hands. That's why most owner's and repair manuals
say never crank an engine longer than 2 minutes at a time without allowing
adequate time for it to cool before cranking it again. (If an engine won't
start within 2 minutes of cranking, then it obviously needs a major tune
up or repair!)
If you need a starter motor to crank an engine without hesitation,
you'd be better off purchasing a new one or one that's been professionally
rebuilt. Never put full trust in a used electric starter to crank your engine
unless your receive an unconditional guarantee that it's good. Otherwise,
there's a chance that it's either 90% wore out, burned up or the magnets
are broken, and the owner is just trying to sell "junk" to another person.
A starter may look nice and clean on the outside, but it's what's on the
inside that matters. Some of these questionable starters are sold "AS IS"
on places like eBay. So remember these words... "BUYER BEWARE!" By the way
- I'm not trying to sell you a new starter here, I'm only informing you of
the facts.
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Before reassembling a starter
motor, first a brush holder tool must be fabricated from a thin piece of
sheet metal to keep the brushes in their pockets before the end cap (with
the brushes) can be reinstalled onto the starter housing.
Widening the Tractor Frame for Use with a Large Flywheel and Gear Starter Motor -
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The upper-mount gear starter can't be installed on the very early 10hp (K241) engine blocks because there's no indention in the block just above the starter's mounting holes. These blocks were designed for the starter/generator only. |
To convert virtually any small gas engine to electric gear start, the parts that's needed are: Top of page
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The parts needed to convert a Kohler K-series engine with a starter/generator to a gear starter are as follows:
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If you want to do away with the old heavy, battery draining, power-robbing
starter/generator on a narrow frame Cub Cadet, and install a lightweight
gear starter motor along with the larger 9-1/2" diameter flywheel on a Kohler
engine, the frame rails must be widened. To do so, with the engine removed,
cut a slot halfway down into the frame where the front of the flywheel shroud
sits. For the rear cut, measure 17" back from the front of the frame (to
where the metal bends for the clutch cover), and then make the cut there.
Then using a large pipe wrench or equivalent, bend or spread the frame rails
outward 11" from the front of the frame. Use a (large) flywheel shroud as
a gauge to determine how wide the rails would need to be. This will eliminate
having to put the engine in and take it back out again. Spread the frame
5" forward (towards front of tractor) from where the slot was cut. Then weld
a gusset into each wedge (or cut) opening.
Widening the frame rails as mentioned above and then properly welding in the gussets shouldn't weaken it. But make sure that the frame is in fact straight before welding in the gussets. Because sometimes it can bend during the process of widening the frame. To prevent the frame from bending overtime when doing ground-pounding wheelies, weld in the gussets on both the inside and outside of the frame. Put down a good bead of weld, too. If the frame is bent, only slightly, this will interfere with the operation and proper alignment of the clutch and driveshaft.
But if you prefer to use the starter/generator when pulling, remember this: the generator part requires less than 1hp of engine power to charge a fully drained battery. Therefore, if you were to install a switch to turn off the field windings in the starter/generator, this will prevent it from charging the battery. Which will allow the engine to produce more power.
Advertisement:
If you need any of the parts listed below, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203 USA |  Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call any day, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer,
please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because
I stutter.)  Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
 E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
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| Flywheels, Flywheel Shrouds and Conversion Kits -
Used 9-1/2" diameter genuine OEM cast iron Kohler K-series flywheel for 10hp-16hp
K-series flathead and 18hp OHV engines. These flywheels are for battery
ignition only, not magneto ignition. They're in excellent condition and
unaltered. No crack in the keyway, no broken or missing fins and no cracked
or missing internal magnets for charging system (if used for yard use).
These flywheels are for stock tractors only; not
to be turned above 4,000 rpms!
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 Used flywheel shrouds for
Kohler K-series 10hp-16hp flathead engines with the 9-1/2" flywheel and the
upper mount gear starter. These are in good condition, not damaged, cracked
or rusted out. $35.00 each, shipping included within in the Continental
U.S. if purchased separately. [When available.]
 |
 Used large aluminum bearing
plate for the 9-1/2" flywheel and battery ignition on 10hp-16hp Kohler K-series
flathead engines. These are in good condition, not damaged. Comes without
bearing and oil seal. $45.00 each, shipping included within in the
Continental U.S. if purchased separately.[When available.]
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All the parts needed to convert your 10hp-16hp single cylinder
Kohler K-series flathead engine from the small flywheel with the
starter/generator to the large flywheel with the ring gear starter.
The flywheel is for stock tractors only; not to
be turned above 4,000 rpms! Includes the following parts: [When
the used parts are available.]
NOTE: These are the older K-series flathead engine parts, not Magnum. All used parts are in excellent condition. And if you have a narrow frame tractor, the frame rails MUST be spread or widened for these parts to fit. Because there's no other way to make them work. And this conversion kit is meant mainly for pulling tractors. |
|
Advertisement: (updated 1/20/07)
| If you need any of the parts listed below, please contact
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia,
MO 65203 USA | Phone:
1-573-875-4033. Please call any day, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer,
please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because
I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347.
E-mail:
pullingtractor@aol.com. You can
also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger:
|
|
 High torque gear starter motor for 8hp (K181) single cylinder
cast iron block Kohler K-series engines. 16 tooth gear. Same dimensions as
OEM Kohler starter, but has twice the wire windings than OEM Kohler starters,
giving it about 25% more cranking power to crank an engine without a compression
release! Replaces Kohler part #'s A232981, 4109801-S, 41-098-01-S, 4109803-S,
41-098-03-S, 4109807-S, 41-098-07-S, 4109808-S, 41-098-08-S.
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 High torque, upper-mount gear starter motor for 10hp-18hp single
cylinder cast iron block Kohler K-series engines. 10 tooth gear. Same dimensions
as OEM Kohler starter, but has twice the wire windings than OEM Kohler starters,
giving it about 25% more cranking power! This starter, along with a full
size automotive battery, is capable of cranking a 50.5 cid engine, or an
engine without a compression release! (Replaces Kohler part #'s 45-098-09S,
45-098-07, A-237510, A-237534, 237131 & 237564)
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 High torque, low-mount gear
starter motor for 10hp-18hp single cylinder cast iron block Kohler K-series
engines. 10 tooth gear. Has twice the wire windings than OEM Kohler starters,
giving it about 25% more cranking power! This starter, along with a full
size automotive battery, is capable of cranking a 50.5 cid engine, or an
engine without a compression release! (Replaces Kohler part #'s 45-098-10S,
237511A & A-237511)
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 High torque, starter motor
for Magnum models M8 through M16 (8hp through 16hp) single cylinder cast
iron block Kohler Magnum engines. 10 tooth gear. Has twice the wire windings
than OEM Kohler starters, giving it about 25% more cranking power! This starter,
along with a full size automotive battery, is capable of cranking a 50.5
cid engine! (Replaces Kohler part #'s 41 098 04, 41 098 06 & 41 098 06-S)
Length: 7-1/4"; mounting studs: two 1/4"-20; o.d. housing: 3-1/16"; center
to center mount: 2-1/2"'.
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 High torque gear starter
motor for KT17, KT19, MV16 and M18 twin cylinder Kohler engines. Has twice
the wire windings than OEM Kohler starters, giving it about 25% more cranking
power! This starter, with a fabricated bracket (not included), and a full
size automotive battery, can definitely crank over a 50.5 cid single cylinder
engine! The 9-tooth gear on this starter will mesh perfectly with the K-series
and Magnum single cylinder flywheel gear teeth and it'll crank the engine
easier with the smaller gear. (Replaces Kohler part #'s 52-098-03, 52-098-09,
52-098-12 and 52-098-12-S)
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 High Torque Gear Starter
for Kohler engines 18-23hp, models K482, K532 & K582. Replaces Kohler
48-098-05 & 48-098-01, and United Tech 1574440, 5666740. Notes: (1)
Additional 6.6mm Unthreaded Hole in Additional DE Mounting Position, (1)
5.9mm Unthreaded Hole in CE Frame, 1/4-20 Threaded Battery Terminal, 128.2mm
Magnetic Field Case Length, Rubber Skirt Drive.
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 High torque gear starter
motor for V-twin cylinder Kohler engines CH12.5, CH13, CH14, CH15, CH18,
CH20, CH22, CH25; CV12.5, CV15S, CV16, CV18, CV20, CV22, CV25. Replaces:
Delco 10455513, John Deere AM108390, Kohler 24-098-01, 24-098-03, 25-098-08,
25-098-09, Nippondenso 128000-748, 228000-264, UT SM51747, Lester: 17628.
Notes: 10-tooth drive starter. Replaces Nippondenso & United Technology
starters w/ 9-tooth drive (Lester 17628).
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 Starter brush kit. Replaces
Kohler part # 48-755-15, 52-755-15, 82-755-28, 82-755-28-S. Gravely 018610.
Fits models: K91 through K582, KT17-KT19, M18-M20, MV16-MV20 and CV12.5.
Also fits the starters above. $16.00 each kit, plus shipping &
handling. Part No. 26-9219 |
 Starter drive kit for Kohler
starters. Fits models: K241-K341, for 10 thru 16hp engines. Fits upper and
lower mount starters. Replaces Kohler part numbers: 4575515, 4575515S. 10
teeth, counterclockwise direction. $78.00 each, plus shipping &
handling. |
New quality starter motors for other makes and models of small engines are also available. Please call or e-mail us for your needs. |
 New 15 Amp Stator
Kit. Fits Kohler single cylinder 8hp-16hp flathead, 18hp OHV cast iron block
and flathead twin cylinder Kohler engines. Replaces (OEM): Kohler part #
A-237329, 234859, 237329, 237330, 237331, 237399, 237716, 237878-S, 47 085
01, 47 085 11. Fits most Kohler engines (5-1/2" o.d. charging ring) except
some John Deeres. Made in U.S.A. Part # 055-489 $89.00 each, plus
shipping & handling.
Used 15 Amp Stator Assembly. Same as above except used and in working condition. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
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 Light-duty, small
universal solenoids. Has universal mounting bracket. Designed for most makes
and models of lawn tractors, garden tractors, etc. Can be used to activate
starter, horn or killswitch motor. Available in 3 terminal and 4 terminal
design. Studs: 1/4"-20 NC, 10-32 NF. Note: If a small solenoid
has just one 3/16" terminal, the solenoid is grounded internally through
the mounting bracket. But on a small solenoid with two 3/16" terminals, the
solenoid is grounded externally through one of the 3/16" terminals. It doesn't
matter which terminal is used. Connect one small terminal to the starter
switch and the other to the ground of the tractor or negative post on the
battery. When electric current is applied, the two small terminals activates
a magnetic field within the solenoid so the plunger that's connected to a
brass disc within can make contact across the two larger terminals to complete
the circuit from the battery positive (+) post to the starter motor.
$11.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Please specify which
one you need. |
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  Heavy duty plastic and metal body universal solenoids. Can
be used to activate starter, horn or killswitch motor. Four terminal design.
Grounded through mounting base. 12 volt. Studs: 5/16"-18 NC, 10-32 NF.
NOTE: On a larger solenoid having the two small terminals, the terminal
that's marked with an "S" connects to the starter switch. It activates the
solenoid so power can be connected from the battery through the solenoid
to the starter. The terminal marked with an "I" connects directly to the
+ terminal on the ignition coil on certain Ford vehicles ('56 to '88) with
point ignition. It's used to provide full 12 volts directly to the coil for
quicker starts. On a garden tractor, you can just ignore this terminal and
connect the wires as you would for a 3 terminal solenoid.
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 Starter/generator
V-belt for Cub Cadet models 71, 72, 73, 86, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108,
109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149 and 169. (Size 3L32;
3/8" wide x 32" long; Cub Cadet part # 401960R1) $6.00 each, plus
shipping & handling. |
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New 15 Amp Voltage-Rectifier
Regulator. Replaces: Kohler 25 403 03-S, 2540303-S, 25-403-03-S; 25 755 03,
2575503, 25-755-03; 25 755 03-S, 2575503-S, 25-755-03-S; 41 403 01, 4140301,
41-403-01; 41 403 04, 4140304, 41-403-04; 41 403 05, 4140305, 41-403-05;
41 403 06, 4140306, 41-403-06; 41 403 06-S, 4140306-S, 41-403-06-S; 41 403
08, 4140308, 41-403-08; 41 403 08-S, 4140308-S, 41-403-08-S; 41 403 09, 4140309,
41-403-09; 41 403 09-S, 4140309-S, 41-403-09-S; 234279; 234812; 237335. John
Deere AM34738, AM106357. For models K17 thru K19. Fits 8 thru 24 HP engines
with Models M8 thru M20, MV16 thru MV20, CH5, CH6, CH11 thru CH15 & CV11
thru CV15, and quiet models. Onan HE191-1748, HE191-2106. 15 amp style (New
style). Terminals 3 in a row. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Cannot be substituted for use with the starter/generator charging
system.
New 15 Amp Voltage Regulator
for Starter/Generators. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton 295924; Delco 1118988;
Tecumseh 32089. $65.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Cannot
be substituted for use with the alternator/stator charging system.
To reduce weight on a garden pulling tractor, remove all starting
mechanisms and install a machined billet aluminum starter pulley on
the crankshaft PTO end and then use a 2 wheel remote starter cart with a
V-belt to crank the engine to start it.
All starter carts crank the engine from the right side of the tractor, when sitting on the tractor. All Ford tractor starter motors turn clockwise when facing the shaft, and 99% of all small gas engines also turn clockwise when facing the flywheel. So make sure that the starter is mounted so it'll turn the same direction as the engine. Position the starter motor on the cart as pictured here, with the shaft facing your left when standing behind the cart. But if you have a different type of starter motor on a starter cart that rotates in reverse of normal engine rotation, then the belt will need to be reversed to resemble a figure 8 to rotate the engine in the right direction.
To fabricate a remote starter cart, use a 6 volt starter motor that's made for a 2N, 8N or 9N Ford farm tractor. A 12 volt starter won't have enough strength to crank over an average pulling engine. Then attach a 2" diameter steel or cast iron V-groove belt pulley on the shaft of the starter. Mount a heavy duty 12 volt automotive battery at the base of the cart, a starter solenoid to activate the starter and a heavy-duty push-button type switch to activate the solenoid. Then, install a small motorcycle battery on the tractor itself just to power the ignition and/or electric fuel pump. And always charge up both batteries before every pull! Click this eBay link if you need a Ford starter for your starter cart.
A small block Chevrolet starter motor assembly would also make an excellent starter for use on an auxiliary starter cart. A small diameter V-groove pulley in the starter mounting housing will need to installed in place of the starter drive and the V-belt will need to be installed on the pulley inside the housing.
Information on Kohler (and most small engines) Charging Systems - Top of page
All small engine alternators (stator under the flywheel) produce AC (alternating current) of electricity. Therefore, they require a "rectifier/regulator" to convert the AC to DC (direct current) and to regulate the charge to the battery and power electrical accessories (such as lights, electric PTO clutch, etc.). A generator (starter/generator) on the other hand, produces DC electricity. They require a voltage regulator to regulate the charge to the battery and power electrical accessories. The battery's only purpose in any vehicle is to provide power to the starter motor to crank the engine and power electrical accessories when the engine isn't running. When the engine is running, and while the battery is being recharged, the alternator or generator then powers the electrical accessories through the voltage rectifier/regulator. (With the engine running, and with a good charging system, the battery has nothing to do with powering the electrical accessories.)
Testing the Output Voltage of a Stator -
To test the output voltage of
a stator, connect between the two wires coming from the stator to a volt
meter set at more than 28 volts in the AC setting. With the engine running
at 3,600 rpms, the reading should be 28 volts or more. If it's less than
28 volts, then the stator is bad. And make sure the slip-on terminals on
the stator's wires are in good condition and fit snug on the voltage
rectifier/regulator's spade terminals.
How to replace the stator on a Kohler engine -
- Remove the flywheel.
- Remove the four Phillips head screws that secures the stator to the bearing plate. If the screws refuse to loosen, strike the end of the screwdriver with a medium size hammer at the same time while turning the screw.
- Remove the clamp that secures the stator wires to the bearing plate. (This clamp is to prevent the wires from making contact with the flywheel.)
- Disconnect stator's terminal(s) or plastic connector from the voltage rectifier/regulator.
- With a small, flat screwdriver, depress the locking tang (see drawing above) on each terminal that secures the terminals in the plastic connector. Pull the terminals from the connector. Inspect the terminals for damage. Replace them with the same type terminals and reuse the plastic connector, or replace them with ordinary crimp-type slip-on terminals and discard the plastic connector.
- The stator can now be removed from the engine.
- Installation is in reverse order of removal. And remember - the stator wires ALWAYS connect to the two outer terminals on the voltage rectifier/regulator, and the battery (+) positive wire connects to the center terminal.
Testing the Voltage Rectifier/Regulator -
To test the
voltage rectifier/regulator, with a good stator, connect the stator's two
wires to the rectifier/regulator's two outer terminals (it doesn't matter
which wire connects to which terminal) and then check the voltage output
at the center terminal on the rectifier/regulator with a volt meter. With
the engine running at 3,600 rpms, and if the meter displays or reads 14.5
volts, then the rectifier/regulator is good. If less than 14.5 volts or no
voltage, then the rectifier/regulator is bad. The older rectifier/regulator
with fins is the same as the newer ones with no fins. They work the same.
Go here for more information:
- Easy Starter/Generator Test (http://cubfaq.com/sg.html)
- Charging system troubleshooting (http://ihregistry.com/ref/charging.html)
The rectifier-regulator must match
the amperage output of the stator it's connected to. If a 15 amp
rectifier-regulator is used with a 25 or 30 amp stator, the rectifier-regulator
will burn up. The starter/generators and voltage regulators used on all garden
tractors are rated at 15 amps. And a voltage regulator can't be used with
a stator, nor the rectifier-regulator can be used with a generator.
To connect an alternator stator... the two leads from the stator connects to the two outer terminals on the rectifier-regulator. The center terminal on the rectifier-regulator then connects to the battery's + post or the ignition switch that connects to the battery's + post. It's that simple. And the rectifier-regulator has diodes built-in. So there's no need to add diodes in the circuit.
Converting the old starter/generator charging system to the newer, alternator-equipped charging system: First off, all of the 10, 12, 14, 16 and 18hp single cylinder Kohler flywheels will interchange. The crankshaft tapers are the same. They're the same weight, too. The stator-type charging system will also work on a narrow frame Cub Cadet, but the frame must be widened to accept the larger diameter flywheel, bearing plate and shroud. The larger bearing plate will accept the stator/charging ring. And you'll need a voltage rectifier/regulator that's capable of handling the amount of amps that the stator produce. Stators installed on most Kohler engines have a 15, 25 and 30 amp output. Most common is the 15 amp stator. To identify the amount of amps a stator produces, the 15 amp one have 18 posts, but only 16 are used (wrapped with wire) and has 2 wire leads (or connectors). The 25 amp stator have 18 posts, all of them are used and have 2 wire leads. The 30 amp stator have 12 posts, which are wrapped heavily with wire and have 4 wire leads. If you use a voltage rectifier/regulator that's made for a smaller [amperage] output, it'll burn up in no time. Remember, the higher the amperage of a charging system, the more horsepower it'll draw from the engine (when under a heavy charging load). For wiring diagrams of various Cub Cadets, see this web site: http://www.ihregistry.com/ref/wire.htm.
How to Reinstall Loose
Magnets Inside the Flywheel -
When a magnet comes loose inside the flywheel, it can be Super Glued back in place. But first, be sure to thoroughly clean both the flywheel and magnet (use brake cleaner or cleaning solvent (paint thinner) to dry out any oily residue), and make sure that the poles of the magnet(s) are in the right postion. North-South-North-South-North-South-North, etc. To find which poles are north and south on the loose magnet, tie a string around the center of the magnet and allow it to dangle in mid-air. The poles will attract to the natural magnetic poles of the Earth. Then write on the magnet which poles are which. Then, when installing the magnet in the flywheel, be sure the poles are opposite of each other. If they attach, it's in the right position. Go here for more information on this subject: Flywheel Magnets.
Using an Automotive Alternator on a Small Engine - Top of page
If an [older] small engine engine
has an obsolete charging system, or if the magnet(s) in the flywheel are
broken or missing, and there's no magnets available, or if there's no stator
or voltage rectifier/regulator available, or if refurbishing the original
charging system is just too costly, or if you simply need more amps to power
some "heavy duty" electrical accessories, well, if there's enough space in
the engine compartment, an automotive alternator can be used. It doesn't
matter about the rotation direction of the alternator, because they all produce
AC voltage and the diodes inside them convert the AC to DC to recharge the
battery and power electrical accessories. Ordinary automotive alternators
produce anywhere from 65-100 amps of power at 1,500+ engine rpms (most
belt-driven alternators turn about 3-1/2 times faster than the engine). But
the high-output alternators produce 200-350 amps of power at 1,500+ engine
rpms. Alternators from the 1970s-1990s incorporate the voltage
regulator/rectifier into the alternator housing. Modern designs do away with
the voltage regulator altogether; voltage regulation is now a function of
the electronic control unit (ECU).
An alternator that produces 60 amps will require 1hp of the engine. An alternator that produces 350 amps will require 5.8hp of the engine. So when using an alternator that produces more amps, be sure to use a big enough engine to handle the amperage, or the engine will bog down when a heavy load is placed on the alternator (charging system).
To install an alternator on a small engine, mount an automotive pulley (serpentine or v-belt) on the flywheel or PTO end of the engine, and make sure it's centered so it'll turn true and not wobble. And remember - at 1,500 engine rpms, and with a 3.5:1 increase in ratio, the alternator spins at 5,250 rpms. This means the drive pulley will need to be about 3-1/2 times bigger than the pulley on the alternator so the alternator will produce full charge. If space is an issue, use a [small] 1970s-1990s model alternator out of an import car or truck. The 1970s-1990s model alternators have just one terminal, which connects directly to the battery's positive (+) post. Fabricate a bracket to mount the alternator and an slotted adjusting bracket to tighten the belt. Once installed, properly aligned and operating, this type of charging system will probably outlast the life of an average engine.
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