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There's a cheater in every sport, and tractor pulling is no different. To make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family, while at the pulls, keep an eye on your competition's tractor. It's been known that certain disgruntled pullers (cheaters or sore losers ) belonging to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will, while on the weighing scale at the pull sites, have been known to remove ballast weights from their own pulling tractor to get the tractor's (with driver) weight down to a specified weight limit for any particular class, then when nobody is watching the scales, or looking after the tractor leaves the scales, the [owner or operator of the tractor] will place the (removed) weight(s) back on the tractor. This is why it's important that when at the pulls, it's best to appoint (by the [honest] president) or vote-in (by the pullers) a trusting and honest "designated scale watcher" person in a pulling club or association to keep an eye on the pulling tractors/vehicles while on the scales, and especially when they leave the scales and when they park their tractors while they're waiting their turn to pull. Because nobody likes a cheater. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt to gain an advantage on the track. This is also the fastest way for a pulling association or club to gain a bad reputation and lose honest pullers. (Bad news travels fast.) This type of behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. But then again, if the winning tractor is suspected of cheating on the track (illegal fuel, engine, weight, etc.), there's always the protest rule. But only if it's enforced by the pulling association. Please keep this sport fair and honest, folks.
The rule of thumb for ALL pulling tractors is to get the front end as low as possible for better weight distribution and leverage. By doing this, the rear of the tractor or drawbar (hitch) is "raised up," and when the weight of the sled starts to place pressure on the drawbar, this will make it harder to raise the front end, causing the rear tires to bite more. The lowered front end allows the drawbar to stay pretty much above the centerline of the rear axles, even when the tractor is on its wheelie bars. (Newton's third law of motion.) Basically, just install small tires on the front of the tractor and/or use lowered or reversed spindles on the front to lower the front of the tractor. Because there is no exact percentage or inches of rake of how much the front end should be lowered. Just make sure that any part of the front of the tractor don't drag the ground.
The best place to position weights is towards the front of the tractor on an extension and underneath the transaxle, for a lower center of gravity, so the tractor won't go from side to side down the track as much. If the weights are positioned high on the tractor, that would make it top heavy, causing it to go from side to side down the tractor, especially high speed tractors. Weights mounted high have no effect on slower pulling tractors.
The same thing here applies to the big pulling tractors as well. All pulling tractors need to avoid using wheel weights and place the majority of the weight under the tractor for a lower center of gravity for better stability of the tractor while going down the track.
A pulling tractor will pull best when most of its weight is on the rear tires and the front tires barely touch the track. To "balance the tractor" for various to track conditions, weight may need to be "juggled" from front to rear and vice-versa. On a hard, dry or loose track, weight will need to be removed from the front of a tractor placed at the rear (and you'll need to pull in a slightly faster gear). And on a moistened or "biting" track, weight will need to be removed from the rear of a tractor and placed on the front (and you'll need to pull in a slightly slower gear).
"Balancing" a pulling tractor greatly depends on which class the tractor pulls in. A stock tractor will not balance like a highly modified and vice-versa. In the stock class(es), a tractor requires more weight toward the front because the rear tires turns slower, causing them to dig in more, which will cause the front of the tractor to raise easier. But as you move up in the classes, when the tractor has a more powerful engine and more ground speed, the tractor will need less weight on the front and more on the rear because due to the increase in engine torque, the tires want to break traction easier.
The weights need to be "juggled" so there'll be adequate weight on the rear tires for traction and sufficient amount of weight on the front of the tractor to hold the front end down. But then again, you want the front tires to barely skim on the surface. This places about 90-95% of the weight on the rear tires for most traction. You can also use your upper body weight to lean forward, backward and to either side to guide the tractor straight down the track.
To reduce weight on a garden pulling tractor, remove all starting mechanisms, install a small motorcycle battery or a small, lightweight and rechargeable 12 volt sealed lead acid (SLA) battery with a minimum 4AH (Amp Hour) rating on the tractor, use a machined billet aluminum starter pulley on the crankshaft PTO end, then use a 2 wheel remote starter cart with an automotive or tractor starter motor with a V-belt pulley, high amperage push-button [starter] switch and an automotive 12 volt battery motor to crank the engine to start it. The battery on the tractor is used to power the ignition and/or electric fuel pump only. And with no charging system, a remote battery charger will need to be used to keep the battery fully charged when the tractor and starter cart are not in use. Also, keep in mind if using a high-output/performance coil, because these draw more amps from the battery. The average life expectancy of most standby batteries is between 3-5 years.
All starter carts crank the engine from the right side of the tractor, when sitting on the tractor. All Ford tractor starter motors turn clockwise when facing the shaft, and 99% of all small gas engines also turn clockwise when facing the flywheel. So make sure that the starter is installed so it'll turn the same direction as the engine. Position the starter motor on the cart as pictured here, with the shaft facing your left when standing behind the cart. But if you have a different type of starter motor on a starter cart that rotates in reverse of normal engine rotation, then the belt will need to be reversed to resemble a figure 8 to rotate the engine in the right direction.
To fabricate a remote starter cart, use a 6 volt starter motor that's made for a 2N, 8N or 9N Ford farm tractor. A 12 volt starter won't have enough strength to crank over an average pulling engine. Then attach a 2" diameter steel or cast iron V-groove belt pulley on the shaft of the starter. Position a heavy duty 12 volt automotive battery at the base of the cart, a starter solenoid to activate the starter and a heavy-duty push-button type switch to activate the solenoid. And always fully charge the battery before every pull! 6 volt Ford starter motors are available on eBay if one is needed for a starter cart.
A high-torque Chevrolet V8 starter motor also works great for use on an auxiliary starter cart. A small diameter V-groove pulley in the starter mounting housing will need to installed in place of the starter drive and the V-belt will need to be installed on the pulley inside the housing.
Steer Your Tractor Straight Down the Track Using Your Body Weight!
Sometimes there is no "best way" to make both rear tires to pull equally or straight down the track. If your tractor start to head toward the boundary line, use your body weight to try to steer the tractor straight. Don't slide your butt from side to side in the seat. Doing that could cause the tractor to jerk and lose traction. Just lean your chest or upper part of your body from side to side. Lean to one side or the other. Lean the same direction the tractor is headed and not the opposite way! If the tractor is going to the right, lean to the right. In other words, lean your body toward the outside of the track. Lean a lot if you must! And it would help to lean forward too, because the front of the tractor is obviously too light. By leaning your body to either side, this places less weight on the [rear] tire that has the most traction. Also, try to place "enough" physical weight on the front of the tractor so the front tires can more or less steer the tractor straight down the track. Having a narrow rear wheel base (when the rear tires set close to the tractor frame) will help in guiding the tractor straight down the track, too.
If the front of the tractor seems too light all the time, you could...
a Obviously, remove weight(s) from the rear of the tractor and place it/them on the front.
a If you don't already have one installed, and if rules allow this, use an extendable or telescopic front weight bar. An extended front weight bar helps to balance the tractor better so the rear tires can dig in more. Make it the maximum length to whatever your clubs' rules allow. Because the further out the weight extends from the rear tires, the better the balancing effect it will have. And being most garden tractors have somewhat of a short wheelbase, the front weight bar extension will give a tractor the proper "balancing effect" or "front end weight flotation" that is so critical when attempting to control the direction of the tractor on the track. Scroll down or click here for more information on various designs of the extendable front weight bar.
a Fabricate and install a solid steel front axle that pivots in the center. A solid steel axle weighs about 14 lb. It's heavier and much more durable than the [fragile] OEM cast iron piece.
a Reposition the front axle to the extreme front of the frame of the tractor. This makes the tractor look better, and it gives it that "stretched" look. If the axle is moved forward, don't forget to reinforce the frame where the engine mounting bolt holes are or the bolt holes will break out due to normal engine vibration and pulling stress. To move the front axle forward on a narrow frame Cub Cadet, first remove the engine. Then on the frame on the narrow frame tractors, weld a brace across the frame or install an old oil pan to keep the frame from spreading when the brace is removed. Otherwise, the engine mounting bolt holes will not be aligned. Then raise the front of the tractor with an overhead hoist, and use a cutting torch and disc grinder to remove the axle support from the frame, and then locate it forward and weld it securely in place.
a Reposition the transaxle assembly to the extreme rear of the frame, by drilling four new holes in the frame. This will lengthen the tractor's appearance and wheelbase. The transaxle can be moved rearward as far as 6", using only 4 bolts to fasten it to the frame. And instead of making a new, longer driveshaft, you can use the present one by fabricating a longer coupler made of .626" i.d. x 9" long heavy wall steel tubing. Run the tubing about 1" up on the driveshaft for better stability. Exception: The tubular coupler used on models 800, 1000, 1200 and 582 can be made just 6" longer, because these couplers already have a lot of contact with the driveshaft, if original driveshaft dimensions are used. The brake linkage and maybe the shift lever will also need to be lengthened 6". And unless the driver/operator is a very tall person with long legs (to reach the pedals), leave the seat and fenders in their original position.
|If you need any of the parts or services listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: email@example.com. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. NOTE: To place an order, please call either number above È or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, my websites are not set up to accept orders online.|
|Bolts for Driveshaft Couplers
below Ê. Makes for easier installation
and removal of driveshaft assembly, or disconnection of coupler when changing
top input pinion gear/shaft. Bolt: 1/4" diameter x 1-3/4" length, partial
thread. Includes nylon-inserted lock nut.
|OEM stock-length (replaces
Cub Cadet part # IH-394036-R1) or 3" aftermarket rigid tubular carbon steel
driveshaft one-piece rigid tubular couplers for Cub Cadet models 70, 71,
72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 106, 108, 122, 124, 126 and 128. And one-piece
couplers to replace rubber flex coupler(s) and T-arms on "Quiet Line" Cub
Cadet models 800, 1000, 1050 and 1200 when using
solid motor mounts (The 800, 1000 and 1200
coupler will come with two roll pin holes for single or double rubber flex
coupler(s).) Also custom-length rigid tubular driveshaft couplers, up to
6" in length are available. For a custom-length coupler, exact locations
where the spiral/roll pin holes need to be drilled are required. To find
the location of the spiral/roll pin holes, install the driveshaft in the
tractor with the engine fastened to the frame with a couple of bolts, make
sure the clutch disc is midway on the drive pins, then measure precisely
from the rear spiral/roll pin hole on the driveshaft to the spiral/roll pin
hole in the input shaft in the transaxle, then add 3/4" for the overall length
of the coupler. NOTE: The
3" aftermarket coupler is used only for competition pulling tractors
with a shortened driveshaft so the input pinion gear/shaft can be changed
to vary the ground speed of the tractor. And when ordering,
please specify model of Cub Cadet, overall length and spiral/roll pin hole
a Lower the hitch height slightly or reposition the hook point closer toward the transaxle. The best position for the hook point is 6-1/2" to 8" rearward from the centerline of the rear axle.
a Pull in a slightly faster gear.
a Install a smaller diameter steering wheel so the driver/operator can lean forward more.
a Use aluminum wheels on the rear. Scroll down or click here for more information.
a Fabricate and install aluminum or fiberglass rear fenders. For safety reasons, do not remove the fenders entirely! And be aware if using fiberglass. It has been known to crack due to normal engine/tractor vibration. When fastening it, use some fender washers to distribute the load.
a Fabricate and install an aluminum seat with a short raised back (approximately 3").
a Use less oil in the transaxle. To do this, don't fill the transaxle full of oil (to the full level hole). Instead, tap another fill hole 2" (on the rear cover) below the original one and fill it up to there. The lower driven gears and the ring gear will still pick up plenty of oil and sling it on the upper moving parts, keeping them well lubricated. A grease fitting may need to be tapped into each axle housing end to help keep them lubricated as well.
a Install a set of cast aluminum axle housings off of certain models of older IH Cub Cadets. They'll about 12 lbs. lighter than the cast iron ones. And the aluminum axle housings are just as strong as the cast iron ones. There's no way to break one. They can be machined for the larger Chrysler axle bearing and oil seal, too.
a To save even more on weight, use an aluminum transaxle case and an aluminum reduction gear housing that's available on certain later models of Cub Cadets and aftermarket ones made by Midwest Super Cub. By the way - the aluminum transaxle housing and casings are definitely strong enough for competition pulling. Just remember when installing the bolts, use bolts with threads that's long enough to go deep into the aluminum so they won't strip out under stress or pressure.
The IH Cub Cadet cast iron complete transaxle without any internal parts weighs about 97 lbs. And the aftermarket aluminum reduction housing, transaxle case and Cub Cadet aluminum axle housings all together weighs about 49 lbs.
a Set the rear tires (wheels) inward or closer to the frame so the driver/operator can lean with less body weight and guide the tractor better. To do this with steel wheels, the centers will need to be moved in the wheels. There's also aluminum wheels available with various offsets for doing this. The fact that a lot of pullers like to use aluminum wheels instead of steel ones isn't necessarily because they look nice, it's because they're much lighter in weight then steel. They create less rotating mass that robs the engine of power, and they help the weight-conscience puller. Two steel 5-hole garden tractor wheels (Cub Cadet, John Deere, Sears Suburban, Wheel Horse, etc.) that's been widened to 13" weighs about 42 lb. And two 12" wide rear (Douglas) aluminum wheels weigh in at a mere 12 lb.
a Doing any of the three options listed below Ê will add "leverage" to the front end. In other words, it'll place more pressure on the drawbar and rear tires (making them dig in more), and making it somewhat difficult for the front end to rise when pulling. Otherwise, with the frame somewhat parallel with the ground, the tractor is [kind of like] already doing a wheelie, even when it's not in motion. So with the frame level and when it actually does a wheelie (while pulling the sled), very little weight will be transferred upon the rear tires.
|If you need any of the parts or services listed below Ê, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA | Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop) | 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays). Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival. Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org. Directions to our shop | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. NOTE: To place an order, please call either number above or send an email with a list and description of the parts or services you need. Because as of right now, my websites are not set up to accept orders online.|
drop-spindle shaft kits to lower (drop) the front end as much as 2-3/8" for
better weight transfer in competition pulling on wide and spread frame Cub
Cadet models 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682,
782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450,
1512, 1535 or 1650. Can also be used for constructing custom front axles,
such as for a mini-rod pulling tractor. Available in 3/4" or 1" diameter.
To install, cut off original spindle shafts flush with steering
knuckle, and drill a 3/4" hole in steering knuckles
± 2-3/8" higher than where original
shafts was. Replacement spindle shafts will need to be positioned perpendicular
(exact 90° angle) with steering knuckle then securely weld to backside
of knuckle for non-interference with spacing of rim.
The spindle shafts shown to the right ð and listed below includes two 1/8" cotter pins and flat washers and have a cross-drilled hole toward end of shaft to retain wheel. (Use with hub covers for nice appearance.) Each stub length is 3-9/16" (for wheels with 3" width hub), but available in any length to accommodate the width of the hub in your front wheels.
The spindle shafts shown to the right ð and listed below Ê have a 3/8-16 NC threaded hole in end of shaft to retain wheel with bolt/flat washer (not included). Each stub length is 3-1/4" (for wheels with 3" width hub), but available in any length to accommodate the width of the hub in your front wheels.
Install weld-in spindle shafts in steering knuckles to lower front of tractor ± 2-3/8" for your wide or spread frame Cub Cadet model 86, 108, 109, 128, 129, 149, 169, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 800, 882, 1000, 1050, 1100, 1200, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450, 1512, 1535 or 1650. An innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this service.
Weld brace to reinforce spindle shafts for your Cub Cadet model Cub Cadet model 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, 982, 984, 986, 1340, 1440, 1535, 1541, 1572, 1772, 1782, 1861, 1863, 1864, 1872, 1882, 1912, 1914, 2072, 2082, 2084, 2086, 2182, 2284, 1860 or 1862. An innovative concept by Brian Miller because nobody else advertise this service.
|Front Tires, Front Wheels, Inner Tubes and Wheelie Bar Wheels -|
|4.10/3.50-4 Heavy Duty,
Flat-Free, Tire and Wheel Assembly.
Features: Puncture resistant! Shock-absorbing! Zero down time! Never needs inflating! Less weight than standard 3-piece pneumatic tire and wheel assemblies. Excellent resistance to abrasion, water absorption, and chemical attacks. Maintains low rolling resistance. Double-sealed, semi-precision 3/4" ball bearings that offer higher wear resistance, quiet and smooth operation. Pre-greased to extend bearing life. Specifications: 10.2" diameter x 3.2" wide. Tire weight load capacity: 350 lbs.
|4.10x3.50-4 Sawtooth Tread
2-Ply Tubeless Tire. Fully inflated dimensions: 4.1" width of sidewall bulge
x 11" overall height x 4" rim diameter. Each tire weighs 2.8 lbs. Load capacity
for each tire is 260 lbs @ 30 psi. (maximum inflation). Made by Carlisle.
Proportional size to the 23-10.50x12 rear tires.
4.10-6 Sawtooth Tread 4-Ply Tubeless Tire. Fully inflated dimensions: 4.1" width of sidewall bulge x 13" overall height x 6" rim diameter. Each tire weighs 3.1 lbs. Load capacity for each tire is 485 lbs. @ 85 psi. (maximum inflation). Made by Carlisle. Proportional size to the 26-12.00x12 rear tires.
|11x400-5 Rib Tread 2-Ply
Tubeless Tire. Fully inflated dimensions: 11" overall height x 4" width of
sidewall bulge x 5" rim diameter. Each tire weighs 3.5 lbs. Load capacity
for each tire is 210 lbs. @ 22 psi. (maximum inflation). Made by Cheng Shin.
"In-between" proportional size to the 23-10.50x12 or 26-12.00x12 rear
13x500-6 Rib Tread 2-Ply Tubeless Tire. Fully inflated dimensions: 11" overall height x 4" width of sidewall bulge x 6" rim diameter. Each tire weighs 4.5 lbs. Load capacity for each tire is 295 lbs. @ 20 psi. (maximum inflation). Made by Cheng Shin. Proportional size to the 26-12.00x12 rear tires.
Bolt-Together Steel Wheels for Easier Mounting and Dismounting, 4" wheel.
Painted white. Dimensions: 4" diameter x 2-1/2" rim width x 2-1/8" wide centered
hub. (Cub Cadet front spindles are 3" long, so a 3/4" spacer will need to
be used with this wheel.) Two wheels weighs 4.2 lbs. Accepts 1-3/8" o.d.
bearings or bushings (not included); use with inner tube.
Two-Piece, Bolt-Together Steel Wheels for Easier Mounting and Dismounting. 6" wheel. Painted white. Dimensions: 5" diameter x 2-3/4" rim width x 3-1/2" wide centered hub. (Cub Cadet front spindles are 3" long, so a 3/4" spacer will need to be used with this wheel.) Two wheels weighs 5.2 lbs. Accepts 1-3/8" o.d. bearings or bushings (not included); use with inner tube.
Two-Piece, Bolt-Together Steel Wheels for Easier Mounting and Dismounting. 6" wheel. Painted white. Dimensions: 6" diameter x 3-1/4" rim width x 3-1/2" wide centered hub. (Cub Cadet front spindles are 3" long, so a 3/4" spacer will need to be used with this wheel.) Two wheels weighs 6.2 lbs. Accepts 1-3/8" o.d. bearings or bushings (not included); use with inner tube.
|Inner Tubes -
Each have a straight valve stem; Made by Cheng Shin.
| Wheelie Bar Wheels
Plastic Wheelie Bar Wheels with spherical (rounded) tread surface. Dimensions: 5" tall x 2" wide x 5/8" center hole. Our part # 07-11819.
Now if the front end seems too heavy or if the front tires won't "float" down the track or barely make contact with the track when pulling, what could be done to lighten the front end is...
a Obviously, remove weight(s) from the front of the tractor and place it/them on the rear.
a Sharpen the tire tread if rules allow, use a different type of tire with better tread (softer or harder rubber compound; according to track conditions) or adjust the tire pressure accordingly.
a Remove all unnecessary (mower deck) brackets, hangers, pulleys, etc. from the front or midway of the tractor.
a Don't install the battery or fuel tank on the extreme front end of the tractor. Or perhaps use a smaller fuel tank, if you prefer it to be mounted on the front.
a Reposition the drawbar further back or away from the transaxle. The best position for the drawbar is 6-1/2" to 8" rearward from the center of the rear axle.
a If your tractor has cast aluminum axle housings, install a set of cast iron axle housings off the early models of Cub Cadets. The cast iron ones that will interchange with the aluminum housings that come on all IH models of Cub Cadets. There's about a 12 lb. difference between the aluminum housings and the cast iron ones. To add even more weight on the rear, use a cast iron transaxle case and a cast iron reduction gear housing that also come on all IH models of Cub Cadets. By the way - the IH Cub Cadet cast iron complete transaxle without any internal parts weighs about 97 lbs. And the aftermarket aluminum reduction housing, transaxle case and Cub Cadet aluminum axle housings all together weighs about 49 lbs.
a Remove the starter/generator (if equipped) and install the smaller gear starter with a large diameter ring gear type flywheel. There's a 22 lb. difference between the starter/generator. bracket and PTO pulley versus the small gear starter.
a Remove all starting mechanisms and use a remote starter cart. Click here for more information on this subject.
a Install a seat with a short(er) back support so the driver/operator can lean back more.
a Use small diameter aluminum wheels with small, lightweight tires on the front.
a If it's a slow moving stock tractor with low tire speed, use steel wheels on the rear.
a Fabricate and install a thin-wall [reinforced] aluminum or steel tubular front axle that pivots in the center.
a Fabricate and install a [reinforced] aluminum, thin-wall steel or fiberglass hood/grille support. Be aware if using fiberglass! It has been known to crack due to normal engine vibration. When fastening it, install a wide flat washer with a large diameter rubber washer on each mounting bolt against the fiberglass to cushion and distribute the load.
a If it's a high-tire-speed pulling tractor, avoid using wheel weights or fluid in the rear tires for competition pulling! But if you prefer to use wheel weights, the most easiest and inexpensive way is to use barbell weights. They can be mounted by drilling a 27/64" hole in the center of each axle (it should be soft metal), then cut some 1/2-13 threads in the drilled holes. Then install a hardened 1/2" diameter threaded steel rod (All Thread) into the threaded holes, cut the rods off so they won't protrude too far out past the tire, slide the weights onto the rod, and then fasten them in place with a large flat washer and wing nut. Never run wheel weights or fluid in the rear tires except in or on a slow moving stock tractor! In a high speed pulling tractor, the extra rotating weight will slow the tractor down A LOT! It's based on one of the laws of physics and mechanics: it takes more force (as in torque and horsepower) to set a heavy object in motion than it would to spin a lightweight object. Therefore, in pulling, the wheel weights will cause the rear tires to lose a lot of momentum (speed) and they'll rob the engine of valuable power. Actually, the engine would be straining because of the extra weight.
a Fabricate a heavy duty box, and place weight between the rear tires, under the transaxle. This lowers the center of gravity for the overall rear weight of the tractor and lessens the chance having a "teeter-totter" effect, or raring up and down of the front end.
To fabricate weights yourself, find a friend with a cutting torch, cut-off saw or chop saw and welder then check with scrap metal recycling centers. That's what I did, and saved a bundle! Of course, I have our own acetylene cutting torch, 14" chop saw and two wire welders.
When placing weight on a pulling tractor, include some smaller pieces of weights, (1 lb., 2 lb.) instead of just large, massive weights or use thick and thin weights. While on the scales, smaller pieces of weights makes it much easier to remove, add or juggle down to a pound or two. And always mark your weights so you'll know how much each one weighs. This way, it takes the guess work out of adding or removing weight as needed. And it'll be a good idea to put your name on your weights, so another puller can't claim them as theirs.
Sometimes automotive tire dealerships or tire repair shops will give away 5 gallon buckets of used lead wheel balancing weights. Or they'll sell a bucket full of lead weights for very little. Believe me, you can hardly lift a full bucket of these weights! Lead wheel weights can be easily melted down over low heat in a Teflon-coated cooking pan, a stainless steel pan or skillet that's been coated with a non-stick cooking spray (such as PAM® Cooking Spray or Baker's Joy) and then the lead can be poured into a steel or aluminum container (such as an ice cube tray) to make certain shapes of small weights. But do this in a well-ventilated area (outdoors) because molten lead produces caustic and deadly gases! And don't worry about the steel clip on the weights. They won't melt, they'll just mix in with the lead and add a little extra weight. For more information and how-to videos on this subject, click here: How To Melt Lead For Weights - YouTube.
Fabricating the Front Extendable Weight Bar (Boom Extension) -
If using the "stack or "hang on" type of weights on the front weight bar, for stack weights, a rubber strap could be used to secure the weights in place. Or better yet, and to make it look fancy, run a 3/8" diameter steel rod over the top of all the weights to secure them in place. This rod can be used for the hang on type of weights, too. Then use a hair pin clip on each end of the rod to secure it place. Or a heavy gauge metal box can be used on the front weight bar of a tractor as well. A government surplus ammo box (30 cal.) is ideal for use on the front. (Be sure to paint it the same color as the tractor.)
Being there are many different ways to fabricate the front weight bar extension, the below Ê is how I like to do it.
FYI - the average 1,050 lb. garden pulling tractor needs approximately 60-65 lbs. of weight on the front weight bar. This includes the tubing to construct the weight bar extension, weight box and/or bracket. Return È
By the way - I don't sell extendable front weight bars because some people move the front axle forward and this causes a problem with fabricating a bracket to mount the front of the bar to the tractor. Otherwise, I would make and sell them for a reasonable price.
A Spring-Loaded Pull Pin can be used to retain the front weight bar extension in place on a pulling tractor. A spring-loaded pull pin allows quick and easy retraction and engagement of the locking pin or plunger to slide the front weight extension in and out with less effort. Easily installed. Align holes and weld base to the outer weight bar extension housing. Pulling on the handle of the plunger assembly retracts the plunger into the housing. Releasing the handle allows the spring-loaded plunger to extend. The lockout design allows the handle to be pulled and rotated 1/4 turn to hold the plunger in the retracted position.
To make a place to add weights on the rear of your tractor, fabricate an 1/8" flat steel plate above the drawbar to place some "hang on" weights onto. And use a rubber strap or fasten a steel rod over the top of the weights to secure them in place. Or fabricate a long, narrow metal box with a locking lid to place odd shapes of weight into.
To add even more weight and to "balance" the tractor out a little better, a bracket could be fabricated under the frame/in front of each rear tire to hang some weight onto. Or better yet, when at a pull, walk around and look over the competitive (winning) pulling tractors, to get some idea on how and where they place their weights.
And if only if the same person pulls the same tractor all the time, or if one don't need to remove weight(s) from a tractor often, you could "disguise" the weight(s) or hide it/them by fabricating a heavier, thicker steel grille/hood support or front axle, fabricate some heavier, thicker steel fenders, fasten weight inside the frame rails, etc. Also, avoid using inside mounted rear wheel weights.
Weight of Various Materials -
To convert the cubic inch weight of a material into cubic feet weight, multiple the cubic inch weight by 1728.
If you don't have a scale to weigh your steel or lead, here's the formulas to figure the weight of these metals: (All measurements shown are in inches. And it's best to use a calculator for these.)
|If you wish to have your Kohler stock or pulling engine
dyno-tested, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W.
Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203-9136 USA |
Phone: 1-573-256-0313 (shop)
| 1-573-881-7229 (cell). Please call Monday-Friday (except Holidays), 9am
to 5pm, Central time zone. If no answer, please try again later. (When
speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) A-1 Miller's
shop is open to the public from 9am to 5pm, including weekends (except Holidays).
Please call before coming so I'll be here waiting for your arrival.
Directions to our shop |
1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or
Map of 1501 West Old Plank
Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
A-1 Miller's Fully Computerized Stuska Water Brake Engine Dynamometer (Dyno) Service!
For performance testing engines up to 200hp at speeds up to 12,000 RPM. The only engine dyno service in Missouri for Kohler pulling engines! Now set up and fully operational in our shop, every competition pulling engine that we build will be dyno-tested, fine-tuned and adjusted on our Stuska water brake dynamometer with data logger before it leaves our shop to make sure it is producing maximum horsepower and torque, or customers can rent dyno time and make adjustments or changes to their engines and print-out the results. Proposed Engine Dyno Rental Fee: $50.00 per hour run time. No setup fee for Cub Cadet engines with a 3- or 6-pin/stud clutch driver. An adapter may need to be needed or fabricated for other makes and models of engines.
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