FYI - A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises is a legal, legitimate, tax paying and reputable business. And as of 2024, A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises is still in business and offering all parts and services listed in this website. Please click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options.

Information About Various Small Engine Carburetors and Fuel Systems

Inspiring Small Engine, Lawn & Garden, and Garden Pulling Tractor Enthusiasts Since 1996. Where Science and Common Sense Come Together for Safety and Improved Engine/Tractor Performance
A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises - Parts & Services Online Catalog

This page was updated 7/18/20. (Click Refresh to see changes or updates.) Optimized for 1024 x 768 screen resolution. Easy and simple to use website. To search for a word or phrase in any of my websites, press CTRL and F to open the Find dialog box in your web browser. Although every effort has been taken to check the accuracy of information contained herein, I cannot assume responsibility for errors.

NEW! A-1 Miller's Professional Automotive Engine Rebuilding and Modification Services. And Build You a Competitive Mini Pulling Truck and Big Wheel Mini Rod Pulling Tractor. Chevrolet, GMC, Chrysler, Ford, Diesel engines, etc. More details and information coming later.


Unsportsmanshiplike Conduct -

There's a cheater in every sport, and competition tractor pulling is no different. Honest pullers who ignore the cheater(s) are fools. And when there's prize money involved, a fool and their money are soon parted. Anyway, to make competition pulling a fun and fair sport for the entire family, be protective of your equipment! While at the pulls, keep an eye on your carburetor and fuel shut-off valve! When a competitive or winning pulling tractor is left alone, it's been known that certain disgruntled pullers (sore losers ) belonging to various associations/clubs, virtually anywhere and everywhere, will turn the high speed air/fuel adjuster one way or the other, or close the fuel shut-off valve to keep the engine from running at it's full potential, or from running at all. This is one of the easiest, dishonest and sneaky ways to retard or disable and sabotage a competitor's tractor. All a cheater needs is an opportunity in an attempt to gain an advantage on the track. This is also the fastest way for a pulling association or club to gain a bad reputation and lose honest pullers. (Bad news travels fast.) This type of dishonest behavior doesn't happen often, but you need to be prepared if or when it does happen. To be prepared for this unforeseeable event, it'll be a good idea to cover the entire carburetor with a drawstring bag, or better yet, cover the entire tractor with a canvas or heavy blanket. Keep an eye on your kill switch plug, too! Always try to stay one step ahead of a cheater.


Use a Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System to Start a Cold Engine - A proven, ingenious, thoroughly researched and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of this system for use on a lawn and garden tractor or small motorized vehicle. [Top of Page] | [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

If a Carter, Kohler or Walbro carburetor (or virtually any type of float carburetor) that's used on lawn or garden equipment, or competition pulling tractor don't have the choke plate/shaft installed, but does have an air cleaner/filter assembly, or an air filter with a velocity stack, and if the engine needs to be "hand choked" to start it, then you probably already know how hard it is to get your hand sealed over the entire velocity stack, and also have a wet hand from "hand choking" the carburetor due to raw fuel afterwards. The remote fuel primer system installed will prevent this. Having a small hose connected to the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor is a lot safer than having raw fuel spilling out of the drilled hole on the side of the carburetor when pulling! An inexpensive and safe way to get extra fuel in the throttle bore to start a cold engine is to use a remote fuel primer system. This system can also be adapted for use on ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden equipment, small motorized vehicle or virtually any type of small engine equipment with virtually any type of float-type carburetor. This system is similar to the same set up that many small engine manufacturers use on their engines nowadays. Works great with pump gas, race gas, E85 or alcohol fuel. Can be used on most lawn & garden small engine equipment, competition garden pulling tractors, small all terrain vehicles, etc.

NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then it may need a professional valve job performed and valve clearances reset. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against the valve seat, and this will cause the clearance between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not fix this type of problem.

How the Remote Fuel Primer System Works: The fuel primer bulb on a snowblower engine connects directly to the float bowl and takes place of the atmospheric vent hole in the float bowl. The bulb itself has a small atmospheric vent hole. When the bulb is compressed (small atmospheric vent hole sealed), this creates air pressure within the bulb, tubing and float bowl, which force fuel up through the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), creating a slight flooding condition in the throttle bore. Thus, helping a cold engine without a choke plate start much easier. With this system, the engine cannot be "over-choked," which could foul the spark plug. The fuel primer system can also be used as a manual accelerator pump when an engine hesitates to rev up on its own.

With the original atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor plugged, a short brass tube is inserted into a drilled hole in the float bowl area on the side of the carburetor body, and with a small fuel hose connecting the carburetor to the primer bulb assembly, which is mounted on the steering column support pedestal.

How to Install and Use My Remote Fuel Primer System:

  1. Remove the carburetor from the engine, remove the float bowl and float.
  2. Plug the atmospheric vent passageway (from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor that's located at the 2:00 position next to the choke plate) with a 1/4" Allen set screw. Cut some short threads for a 1/4" coarse or fine thread x 1/4" length Allen set screw, and install the screw in the opening. If there's a small hole to the right of the choke plate, plug this hole with a 3-48 screw using high strength liquid threadlocker. And if there's a small hole drilled on the outside of the carburetor body, this will need to be plugged with JB Weld two-part epoxy or a short screw. See the photos to the right ->. (The installed tube, hose and hole in the primer bulb will be the new atmospheric vent for the float bowl.)
  3. Be sure to use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out the metal cuttings from the entire carburetor.
  4. Drill an 1/8" hole into the float bowl area just above the float fuel level on the side of the carburetor body to install the 1/8" tube to connect the primer hose. On the Carter or Kohler carburetor, this would be just above the bowl seal and below the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from outside the carburetor to the float bowl area) on the right side of the carburetor when viewed from the choke end. The drilled hole should be a press-fit for the 1/8" tubing. Use high strength liquid threadlocker to permanently secure the tube in the hole then gently tap the tube in the hole with a small hammer until it's flush with the inside of the float bowl area. See photo to the right.
  5. Reassemble the carburetor, and use a hammer to flatten the hole from inside the float bowl on a hard, flat surface so when the bowl bolt is tightened against the carburetor, it will place more pressure against the neoprene rubber O-ring seal and fuel baffle/splash shield to prevent an air leak (and possible fuel leak). Reinstall the carburetor on the engine, and connect the fuel line. FYI - The fuel baffle/splash shield prevents fuel inside the float bowl from traveling up through the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway into the float bowl) and into the throttle bore when the engine is "moving around" or "moving up and down" severely, such as on a go-kart, garden tiller or small all-terrain vehicle, which could cause the engine to momentarily run rich on fuel.
  6. Drill a 17/64" hole to install the primer bulb assembly someplace on the tractor's steering column support pedestal within easy reach of the driver. Mount the primer bulb on side of the pedestal so rain water and/or when washing off tractor, water will not enter in the hole in the bulb and contaminate the fuel in the carburetor.
  7. Route the primer hose along the tractor so it won't get kinked, pinched or damaged and away from moving parts and hot exhaust area. Then attach the hose from the primer bulb assembly to the tube on the carburetor.
  8. Fill carburetor with fuel, and press the primer bulb quickly a couple of times with your finger to create pressure within the float bowl (be sure to place a finger over the hole in the bulb), and at the same time, look inside the carburetor. Fuel should squirt from the main nozzle and into the throttle bore with each push. Now then the engine should be quick to start! NOTE: It only takes a couple of pushes of the primer bulb to thoroughly prime the carburetor to start the engine. Any more pushes, the carburetor may become flooded and the engine could take longer to start! Another useful thing about the fuel primer system is, this system can be used as a manual accelerator pump if an engine hesitates to rev up, especially before reaching its operating temperature (cold engine).
  9. NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then it may need a professional valve job performed and valve clearances reset. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against the valve seat, and this will cause the clearance between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not fix this type of problem.

FYI - Most [cold] engines will not start when fuel is introduced directly into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole. Doing this only results in a flooding condition and the engine may not start. Gas (or starting fluid) needs to be mixed with incoming air through the carburetor intake so the air can atomize the fuel (break down into a fine mist) to burn more thoroughly so the engine will be able to start quicker.

When removing the choke shaft, there's a tiny (1/8" or 5/32") steel ball and small compression spring located at the 9:00 position when facing the choke end with the float area down. When the choke shaft is removed, hold one finger over the screw hole and end of the choke shaft hole to prevent the ball and spring from popping out and possibly getting lost. By the way - the ball and spring is required only for hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines without a remote cable control, such as on a garden tiller, generator/welder, air compressor, water pump, etc. The ball and spring is not needed if the choke is remotely operated with a choke cable, such as on a garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. Replace these parts if they get lost so the choke will stay open while the engine is running. But if the choke lever/plate is operated by a remotely operated cable, such as on a lawn & garden tractor, then these parts aren't needed and will serve no purpose whatsoever.

Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.


Small Engine Remote Fuel Primer System Kits. Safe to use and works flawlessly! Can be used on most general lawn and garden tractors, competition garden pulling tractors, go-karts, small motorized vehicles, or virtually any small engine lawn and garden or snow removal equipment with a choke plate in the carburetor. Primer bulb can be installed on pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. Requires 1/4" mounting hole for primer bulb assembly. Works with Carter or Kohler (OEM and aftermarket), Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Mikuni, Zenith, or virtually any carburetor with a float. Works with pump gas, race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels. The choice of professional garden tractor pullers everywhere! With the fuel bowl atmospheric vent opening plugged (air passageway from inside the float bowl to outside of carburetor), then with one or two pushes of the primer bulb with your finger, air pressure created within the float bowl forces fuel up through the main jet and out the nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition inside the carburetor throttle bore, allowing a cold engine to start quick. With this setup installed, the choke plate and shaft is not needed and can be removed. No more binding of a cable-operated choke and/or bent choke plate, or messy and unsafe "hand choking" of the carburetor. Being the atmospheric vent opening will be plugged, the fuel baffle splash shield in the Carter or Kohler carburetor is not needed with this setup and will serve no purpose whatsoever. Kit includes: New primer bulb assembly with integrated 1/8" barbed fuel hose fitting and serrated mounting nut, 1/8" I.D. x 3/16" O.D. x 2' length clear vinyl hose, loop-type clamp and 1/8" diameter x 1" length brass tube. Click or tap here for installation instructions. NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then it may need the valve clearances reset and/or professional valve job performed. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against the valve seat, and this will cause the clearance between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not help an engine start easier if it needs a valve job. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the universal kit for use on various small engine equipment, lawn and garden tractors, small motorized vehicles or competition garden pulling tractors. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

  • Fuel Primer Bulb Only. Includes serrated mounting nut. $7.00 each, plus shipping.
  • High Quality Complete Universal Fuel Primer System Kit. Replaces OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • XT Fuel Primer Kit. OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $18.05 each, plus shipping.


Identification of Carter and Kohler Carburetors -

(Corrected and updated 3/11/21) The types of carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181 and M8 are as follows:


FYI - When Edelbrock bought out the automotive division of Carter Carburetor Corporation sometime before 1984, Carter sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines in 1985. And for some reason, Kohler retained the Carter Model N wording on the #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22 carburetors. But on the bigger Carter #26 and #30 single cylinder engine carburetors, Kohler redesigned (and actually improved) the throttle shaft with an integrated lever; incorporated the idle speed adjustment screw w/spring in the carburetor body; redesigned the size of holes in the choke plates according to engine size; and made slots in the carburetor body for easier installation and removal on and off the engine. And Kohler included two additional air cleaner mounting screw holes for the Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models K241-K361. Everything else remained the same on the Carter and Kohler carburetors, with the exception of various redesigned choke levers. Kohler didn't retain the Carter #28 carburetor because it's too similar to the #30 carburetor. But the #28 carburetor is available only in aftermarket. Although the #26 and #28 carburetors are available in aftermarket, for some reason, the #30 carburetor is not available in aftermarket. Six different variations of the Carter or Kohler carburetors was made for the Kohler K-series K241 through K361 engines, KT-series, and the K482, K532 and K582 engines. (NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) that came on the engine.)

The differences between the Carter (#26, #28, #30) and Kohler (#26, #30) carburetors

The size number (diameter of throttle bore) for the Carter or Kohler carburetors is embossed inside the upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. But not all Kohler carburetors have a number embossed. In this case, the throttle bore (throttle plate area) will need to be measured to determine the exact size of the carburetor. The size number refers to the amount of air that can flow through the carburetor.

The carburetor with 26 embossed in the choke end has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle bore. (26mm converts close to 1.070"). The carburetor with 28 embossed in the choke end has a 28mm diameter or 1.17" throttle bore. (28mm converts close to 1.170".) And the carburetor with 30 embossed in the choke end has a 30mm or 1.200" diameter throttle bore (30mm converts close to 1.200".) For precision, when measuring the throttle bore to determine the size, it's best to use a dial or digital caliper.

FYI: Some people advertise online that the carburetor for Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301 or M12 can also be used on Kohler engine models K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. But I know for a fact that if the K241, M10, K301 or M12 carburetor is used on a K321, M14, K341, M16 or K361, which produces 14hp, 16hp and 18hp, respectively, with the correct carburetors, would produce about 12hp, 14hp and 15hp, and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I guess the seller don't know the difference between these carburetors, because they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money.

The carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 are different. They may appear the same on the outside, but be very different on the inside. The K241, M10, K301 and M12 engines require a carburetor with a 1.07" throttle bore and venturi that measures .812" diameter. The K321, M14 engines requires a carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore and venturi that measures .937" diameter. The K341, M16 engines requires a carburetor with a 1.2" throttle bore and venturi that measures 1.000" diameter. And the K361 engine requires a carburetor with a 1.250" throttle bore and venturi that measures 1.062" diameter. If the wrong carburetor is used on any particular engine, the engine may not run right and not produce full power. The carburetors that's used on various models of Kohler engines are as follows:

  1. The first carburetor is a number "26". It was originally designed and manufactured by the Carter Carburetor Corporation, then later manufactured by Kohler Engines. It has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle bore and the venturi is .812" diameter. It's designed to be used on Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K3303/K331, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. The carburetor for the single cylinder engines is discontinued from Kohler L, but available in aftermarket J. The replacement carburetor from Kohler is a Walbro WHG #52. OEM Kohler part # 47 853 23-S.
  2. And yet there's another type of Kohler #26 carburetor designed specifically for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. It has a 26mm or 1.07" diameter throttle bore and the venturi is .812" diameter. The throttle shaft is positioned horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is positioned directly on top of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler L, but available in aftermarket J.
  3. The next carburetor is a rare one, it's a number "28". This carburetor was originally designed and manufactured by the Carter Carburetor Corporation, and was used on the early Kohler engine model K321 with specification suffix "A", "B" or "C" (with a smaller 1-1/8" exhaust valve) and on certain early low RPM K341 engines. It has a 28mm/1.17" diameter throttle bore and the venturi is .937" diameter. It may have the part number 236636 stamped on the flange. It has been discontinued by Carter many years ago. L The replacement is OEM Kohler part # 45 053 20-S. Which is the fully adjustable Kohler #30 carburetor as described below. The Walbro WHG #60 or #64 replacement is OEM Kohler part # 47 853 30-S. By the way - if there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely a aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors. FYI - In 1985, Carter sold their line of small engine carburetors to Kohler Engines. After 1985, the #28 carburetor was discontinued, and Kohler installed their #30 carburetor on ALL of the later K321 and K341 engines. Also, after 1985, Kohler gave the K321 engine a larger 1-3/8" exhaust valve and made the intake port larger in diameter. These are engines with specification suffix "D" and later. The larger exhaust valve , bigger intake port and bigger #30 carburetor allows for more air to enter and exit out of the combustion chamber so the engine will produce full 14hp at 3,600 RPM. By the way - The early K321 engine with the small intake port and small exhaust valve make a good stock 4,000 RPM stock competition pulling engine, but the later K321 engine with the big intake port and big exhaust valve make an excellent open RPM competition pulling engine.
  4. The third carburetor is a number "30". It was originally designed and manufactured by the Carter Carburetor Corporation, then later manufactured by Kohler Engines. It is used on the later model K321, M14 (later K321's, meaning with the 1-3/8" diameter exhaust valve; the early K321's had the 1-1/8" exhaust valve), K341, M16 and K582 engines. It has a 30mm or 1.200" diameter throttle bore and the venturi is 1.000" diameter. This original fully adjustable Kohler #30 carburetor with the 1.2" throttle bore (OEM Kohler part # 45 053 20-S) and the Walbro WHG #60, #64 replacement carburetor OEM Kohler part # 47 853 30-S) for the K321, M14 and K341, M16 engines are discontinued from Kohler.
  5. There's another #30 carburetor designed specifically for the Kohler engine model K582. The throttle shaft is positioned horizontally and the idle fuel mixture screw is directly on top of the carburetor body instead of at an angle on the side. This OEM Kohler carburetor is discontinued from Kohler L, but is available in aftermarket as the Kohler-replicated fully adjustable #28 carburetor with a 1.17" throttle bore J. FYI: Lots of people advertise online that the carburetor for the K482 and K532 can also be used on the K582. But I know for a fact that if the K482 and K532 carburetor is used on the K582, which produces 24hp with the correct carburetor, would produce about 21hp and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor to produce not as much compression. I guess the seller don't know the difference between these carburetors, because they look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money.
  6. Lastly, there's another type of Kohler #30 carburetor. Its throttle bore measures 32mm/1.25" and the venturi is 1.062" diameter. Otherwise, it's identical in every other way to the (1.2") #30 carburetor above È. It's used only on Kohler engine model K361. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler and is not available in aftermarket L. However, The carburetor for the K341 engine (Kohler part # 45 053 20-S), which have a venturi diameter of 1", can be used on the K361 engine, but the venturi will need to be bored to 1.062" so the K361 will produce full power at 3,600 RPM.
  7. NOTE: If a too large of a carburetor is used on a smaller engine, not enough velocity (rapid movement) of air can be drawn through the carburetor at higher RPM. Therefore, the insufficient amount of moving air cannot draw (vacuum) enough fuel from the main fuel nozzle to sufficiently feed the engine. The exception of this rule is if the engine has oversize valves (larger than factory-installed valves), then there should be enough vacuum to draw sufficient amount of air through the carburetor.

By the way - the part number of all Kohler-made and Walbro carburetors are stamped on the right side of the mounting flange. Don't refer to the numbers just below the fuel inlet port. They represent nothing that I know of. Click here to identify a Kohler or Walbro carburetor and matching parts: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual TP-2377-E.pdf. (require Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.) If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.

Airflow / CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) -

FYI - The throttle bore in the Carter or Kohler #26/1.07" carburetors can be bored to 1.17" (#28 size) or 1.2" (#30 size), and the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) will still bottom out against the throttle bore, and of course, a 1.17" or 1.2" throttle shaft and plate would need to be used. But the boring process will break through the idle fuel mixing well (the idle progression holes and the welch plug hole) that's next to the throttle plate. Modifications to this area would need to be made by threading in an 1/8" Allen pipe plug where the welch plug is (or was), and drilling and installing a small brass or copper tube from the idle fuel mixture adjuster screw down into the float bowl, next to the float, with enough clearance so it won't interfere with the movement of the float. A 1/4-28 UNF x 3/4" thread length bolt will also need to be installed where the high speed air/fuel needle adjuster is (was) to block off a vacuum leak to will occur with the modifications of the idle air/fuel mixing well. Actually, it would be MUCH easier and less cost effective to just convert either a Carter or Kohler #28 or #30 carburetor for high performance use and not having to do anything to modify the idle fuel passageway.

Boring-out of the venturi in the carburetor alone will not help to increase engine performance. To increase the overall airflow in and out of the combustion chamber for improved engine performance, and if sanctioning club's rules allow this, the intake (and exhaust) port runners must be enlarged, too. This is called "porting an engine." The [stock size] valves will also need to be reworked and undercut to increase airflow. Or larger reworked and undercut valves and a cam with more lift and duration will need to be used.

For competition pulling, carburetor design and size depends on port sizes, valve sizes, if the intake valve and seat have 30º/31º angles and undercut heads, and the cam profile (lift and duration) is important. If an engine has stock ports, valves and cam, a plain stock carburetor can be used. But if the ports and valves have been reworked for more airflow, and a bigger cam is going to be used, then a bored-out carburetor with a .995" or 1" venturi can be used for best performance. A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance for general yard and garden use, and/or for competition pulling.

The 26mm carburetor obviously has a smaller throttle bore. Therefore, is restricted as to how much air can flow through it, even with the venturi removed. It'll work excellent on a hot K241 or mild K301 engine, but the larger 28mm and 30mm carburetors flows more air, 7.7% more for the 28mm, and 15.5% more for the 30mm. Which are ideal for a hot K301 and larger engines with porting, polishing, bigger valves and a big cam. If you feel that a single 30mm carburetor won't flow enough air for your particular engine, then either a "Super Carb," Dellorto, Mikuni, S&S Super D or twin Kohler carburetor setup (on a "Y" intake) should be used. If you have a K321 Kohler engine, and you can't find a #28 or #30 carburetor, then a Carter or Kohler #26 carburetor will work just fine for general lawn and garden use. Personally, I ran a stock Kohler #26 on the K321 Kohler engine that's on my 6,000 lb. self-propelled pulling sled for 10 years and the engine didn't lack any power whatsoever.


Identification and Information About Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 Carburetors -

The Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors originally come on all Magnum engines. These carburetors are direct replacements for the Kohler carburetors. The Walbro #52 carburetor has a throttle bore diameter of 1.07" and is designed for use on models K241, M10, K301, M12, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 engines. And the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor have a throttle bore diameter of 1.2" and is designed for the K321, M14, K341, M16 engines, and being the 1.25" Kohler carburetor that was originally designed for the K361 engine is longer available, the only option is to use the Walbro #60 or #64 carburetor.

The older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are reliable and they seem to last a long time before requiring service. Most older Walbros are worth rebuilding, because the float valve seats are made of hardened solid bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. They were manufactured back in the day when most business owners took pride in their products and offered their customers a quality product.

But the newer Walbro carburetors, especially the ones that come on recently-built aluminum block small air-cooled engines, are notorious for leaking gas after several years of use. Although overhaul/rebuild carburetor kits are available, it really does no good to rebuild them and install a new fuel inlet valve because the float valve seat is made of soft brass, which erodes with use due to microscopic particles of dirt/debris that pass through the filtering material in the fuel filter, and in most Walbro carburetors, the seat is not replaceable. The fuel inlet seat in older Walbro carburetors are made of hardened compressed bronze, which is actually harder than cast iron. There is no indication or records of when Walbro made the change from the hard seat to the soft seat.

The fine mesh filter screen and filtering material in fuel filters can only block certain size of dirt and debris from entering the carburetor. Any extremely tiny particles that can pass through the fuel filter will build up in the bottom of the float bowl and can eventually clog the main fuel jet. Lightweight and suspended particles in the fuel of the float bowl gets sucked up through the main jet and is burned in the combustion chamber. The best way to remove built-up stuck and stubborn debris from inside the float bowl is to use a 2" brass wire cup brush (shown to the right ->) with a hand-held power drill, and then use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out the debris from the main jet hole and clear out the entire float bowl area of the carburetor. On very rare occasions, a hair can pass through a fine mesh fuel filter screen and become lodged (trapped) between the float valve and inlet seat, causing the carburetor to slightly flood with gas. When this happens, the hair can be successfully removed with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle and the same float valve and seat can be reused because chances are, they will not be damaged.

To put it in plain English: If your Walbro carburetor doesn't leak gas out the choke end, but need an overhaul/rebuild, then it may be worthwhile to install a new kit. But if it does leak gas, then I doubt that a new float valve will fix the problem. Your only options are: install a fuel shut-off valve and turn off the fuel every time the engine is not in use, or install a rebuilt Carter or Kohler K-series carburetor.

About 90% of small engine carburetors are manufactured by Walbro nowadays, and I don't think that one is better than the other. The trick to getting the soft brass seat (and needle/float valve) to last longer is to use a fuel filter with a very fine mesh or pleated paper element. The finer, the better. Because it's the microscopic dirt/debris/grit that passes through the filter that causes the seat (and needle/float valve) to erode and wear. And every pressed-in brass seat that I've replaced ALWAYS leaked gas. There's just no way to get them to seal with the carburetor body, not even with high strength liquid thread locker.

The only problem using a Walbro on a pulling tractor or for high performance application is they can't be bored-out or modified in any way because the throttle bore wall (where the venturi is located) is too thin. Therefore, they're limited to how much air can flow through them. The US government EPA laws required that Kohler and all other small engine manufacturers redesign their carburetors so the engine will produce less air pollution. So they started using a redesigned emissions-controlled, EPA-approved Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet. This is to prevent people from setting the air/fuel ratio too rich and create more air pollution. The older-designed Walbros that have an adjustable main jet, which is located on the lower right side of the carburetor, are still available new. main jets of various sizes are available for most carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet so the engine will run correctly depending on the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used.

A small engine with a fixed, non-adjustable high speed main jet carburetor is supposed to run at a maximum of 3,200 RPM. If the RPM is set higher, the air/fuel mixture will lean out (too much air and not enough fuel), resulting in the engine overheating, which will eventually cause the cylinder head to burn-out, or premature wear to the piston and rings, resulting in the engine burning crankcase oil. The way around this is to drill out the high speed main jet a few thousandths of an inch to give the engine more fuel. But only do this if it's absolutely necessary! If an engine lacks sufficient power at 3,200 RPM, then it obviously needs a professional valve job performed and/or major tune-up.

(Added 7/18/20) If a small engine cylinder head is burned out (usually close to the exhaust valve), if it's burned out where the gasket seals, as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service. The following items are what causes cylinder head burn-out...

Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors work great for ordinary lawn and garden equipment, general lawn work and they're perfect for basic stock low RPM/low performance pulling tractors with an engine that's governed to a maximum of 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, or at 3,600 RPM with an adjustable main jet. A carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet is limited to just 3,200 RPM and should never be operated faster for an extended length of time. Although the venturi cannot be bored-out on a Walbro, they work equally as well as the older Carter or Kohler carburetors when used on a stock engine. The main jet in the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors are calibrated at the factory to provide the engine with just the right amount of fuel at 3,200 RPM. Therefore, the fixed/non-adjustable main jet inside the carburetor cannot be replaced with an adjustable one.

Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.

If a small engine cylinder head is burned out (usually close to the exhaust valve), as long as there's no cracks in the head, it can be successfully welded up, machined flat, the bolt hole redrilled and be put back into service.

  • Professionally weld-up burned-out area in cylinder head, machine flat ,and bolt hole redrilled. $60.00 welding and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.

NOTE - If it's repairable, please do not discard your cylinder head or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.

Carter or Kohler or Walbro Fully Adjustable main jet Carburetors VS. Walbro Fixed/Non-Adjustable Main Jet Carburetor RPM to Horsepower specifications -

Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet are designed with emission controls in mind to run leaner to create less air pollution. However, the main problem with most Walbros having a fixed/non-adjustable main jet is during cooler weather operation. During cool weather, and running at 3,200 RPM, the engine will sometimes run too lean on fuel and operate erratically. To fix this, first of all, make sure the hole (orifice) in the main jet is not partially clogged. If it is, use a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner to clear any debris that may be lodged in the hole. IMPORTANT: When cleaning the hole (orifice) in the main jet, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not to enlarge the hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot be undone! Then use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out any dirt/debris. If the engine still runs too lean on fuel, simply enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet a few thousandths of an inch. Then use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out any metal particles. Be careful not to enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet too much, or the engine will run rich on fuel! The hole (orifice) diameter in the OEM factory main jet for 100% gasoline is 3/64" (.047"). If necessary, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet holes with a #55 (.052") drill bit. That's a .0052" difference. After doing this, for cool weather, the engine should run better, last longer and produce more power. But don't enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet too much! A too big of a hole (orifice) will cause an engine to run too rich on fuel, making it blow black smoke out the exhaust and possibly fouling the spark plug. If the hole (orifice) is made too large, the carburetor will be useless for gasoline, and E85 fuel must be used. But if an engine is going to be used only during warm weather and if it runs okay [during warm weather], don't enlarge the hole (orifice) in the main jet.

On the newer carburetors with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, the hole (orifice) in the main jet may need to be enlarged .002"-.003" to give the engine a little more fuel so it'll run better at higher RPM. Otherwise, the engine could "burn up" or wear out prematurely due to the lean air/fuel mixture. I have an assortment of tiny drill bits that I use on our customer's lawn & garden equipment carburetors.

IMPORTANT! A new style Walbro carburetor with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet should never be used on a non-governed (wide-open throttle) engine or on an engine that's going to turn at 3,200 RPM! The reason for this is because if an engine operates faster with a carburetor having a fixed/non-adjustable main jet, it'll run too lean on fuel at high RPM (it'll draw much more air than fuel), which will cause the combustion chamber to overheat and the excessive heat will likely damage the piston and rings and possibly warp the cylinder head and/or exhaust valve or even crack the cast iron engine block. A lean fuel mixture can also melt away part of the aluminum in the combustion chamber of an aluminum block engine.

The size number on the Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors is embossed inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. A "52" carburetor has a 26mm diameter throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures 1.07".

And being the venturi in the old-style Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181 can't be bored-out either, the only option for pulling competitively with these is to fabricate an adapter to fasten to the intake port on the engine block and use a #52 Walbro or #26 Carter or Kohler carburetor.

The best way to determine which engine any particular carburetor is made for is to measure the diameter of the throttle bore. Because a set of numbers that's stamped on the carburetor body mean nothing, not even to Kohler Engine dealers. If a carburetor measures .822" (13/16"), then it's designed for the K141, K160/K161, L160/L161, L181, K181 engines. If it measures 1.07", then it's for the 10hp or 12hp engines. And if it measures 1.17" or 1.2", it's for a K321, K341 or K361 engine.


The Wrong Type of Choke Lever!

Whenever I get a carburetor with the choke lever in the wrong position, if it has a steel choke shaft, I just grind the lever off at the flare and weld it back on the shaft in the right position. But if it has a brass shaft, I use a steel choke shaft out of a junk carburetor. Or if I don't have a used one in stock, I machine a steel choke shaft from a 1/4" mild steel rod. Like the old saying goes: "There's more than one way to skin a cat."


The Unknown and Tricky Choke Shaft Detent Ball and Spring -

The choke shaft detent ball is a tiny 1/8" (Carter or Kohler carburetors) or 5/32" (Walbro carburetors) steel ball, and the detent spring is a small, stout 1/8" or 5/32" diameter compression spring located inside the air cleaner mounting hole at the 9:00 position when facing the choke end with the float area down. Certain Walbro carburetors have the ball and spring located at the 3:00 position. The detent ball and spring is under pressure by the choke shaft, and is held in the open position by an indention (small shallow hole) in the shaft. The detent ball and spring are required only for hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines without a remote cable control, such as a competition garden pulling tractor, garden tiller, generator/welder, air compressor, water pump, etc. If the choke is operated by a cable, such as on a lawn & garden tractor, then these parts aren't needed and will serve no purpose whatsoever. Before removing the choke shaft from the carburetor body, and to prevent the detent ball (and possibly spring) from popping out and getting lost, using your left hand, hold your thumb over the screw hole and index or middle finger over the end of the choke shaft hole, then slowly and gently pull the choke shaft out of the hole, watching that the ball don't pop out and get lost. Replace these if lost so the choke will stay open while the engine is running.

Installing the choke shaft over the friction (detent) ball and spring can be tricky. This is how it's performed -

  1. Place the carburetor on a sturdy work bench or table, or gently clamped level it in a bench vise with the choke end facing upward and the float bowl facing toward you.
  2. Carefully install the ball and spring in the threaded air cleaner/filter assembly mounting hole located at the 9:00 position. Certain Walbro carburetors have the ball and spring located at the 3:00 position. Make sure the ball is centered with the spring.
  3. To install the choke shaft, it may be able to slide over the ball and compress the spring. If not, then use a 3/32" roll pin punch (with a blunt end) to firmly compress the ball/spring so the choke shaft will slide over the ball.
  4. Gently push the choke shaft in the hole until it makes contact with the punch, then at the same time while still pushing on the shaft, reposition the punch at an angle (toward your right for the 9:00 position), then slowly pull up on the punch at the same time continuing pushing the shaft through the hole so the shaft can slide over the ball. Make sure your finger is still over the end hole!
  5. The end of the shaft should now be flush with the outside of the carburetor body. You should feel the friction/pressure that the ball/spring is placing on the shaft. If so, then gently rotate the shaft to feel the ball "catch" in the indention in the shaft.
  6. If this goes well, install the choke plate and apply clean motor oil through the screw holes for smooth choke operation and less wear to the shaft and/or carburetor body.


How to adjust the fuel mixture screws on a Kohler (or virtually any small engine) fully adjustable carburetor - [Top of Page]

Operation of the Slow- and Mid-Range Carburetor Functions -

At idle speed, the engine operates only through the idle fuel passageway. As a metered amount of air is drawn through slow air bleed jets, fuel is drawn through main jet and further metered through slow jet. Air and fuel are mixed in body of slow jet and exit to idle progression (transfer port) chamber. From idle progression chamber, air fuel mixture is metered through idle port passage. At low idle air/fuel mixture is controlled by setting of idle fuel adjusting screws. This mixture is then mixed with main body of air and delivered to engine. As throttle plate opening increases, greater amounts of air/fuel mixture are drawn in through fixed and metered idle progression holes. As throttle plate opens further, vacuum signal become great enough at venturi so main circuit begins to work.

Operation of the High Speed Main Jet -

At high speeds/loads engine operates on main circuit. As a metered amount of air is drawn through air jet, fuel is drawn through main jet. Air and fuel are mixed in main nozzles then enters main body of air flow where further mixing of fuel and air occurs. This mixture is then delivered to combustion chamber. Carburetor has a fixed main circuit; no adjustment is possible.

If the engine runs well at idle and at higher RPM, don't worry about how the idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustment screws are set. Carburetor adjustments depend on the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be operated. In higher elevations, air is thin or less dense. Therefore, the engine requires more air than fuel to run well. But in lower elevations, air is heavy or dense, and because of this, the engine requires less air than fuel. So there is obviously no "one set adjustment" for all carburetors in all areas. And no new or rebuilt carburetor with adjustable jet(s) for small engines, automotive or whatever, come from the manufacturer or rebuilder with the idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture or the high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments set correctly. This is true for ordinary lawn and garden, and all small engines, and competition pulling engines alike, with the exception of [Walbro] carburetors with the fixed/non-adjustable high speed jet.

How the Idle Fuel Passageway Works in the Carter and Kohler Carburetors -

On the Carter or Kohler (and Walbro) carburetors, the hole towards the bottom of the long main needle adjuster is supposed to be open and not clogged, so the engine can draw fuel through it for idling from the float bowl. The idle fuel passageway for a Carter or Kohler carburetors goes as follows: Fuel is first drawn through the lower end via the tiny hole(s) (orifice) on the high speed needle adjuster, then through engine vacuum, fuel is drawn up through the tube, and over and down toward the idle air/fuel mixture screw (which sets at an angle), and then fuel is drawn into the throttle bore, next to the throttle plate. The information mentioned below Ê is mainly for Carter or Kohler carburetors. The fuel mixture screws are used as follows:

Many times when cleaning a Carter or Kohler carburetor, the welch plug that's on the side of the carburetor doesn't need to be removed. The only time it needs to be removed is when the tiny fuel feed hole that's next to the throttle plate become clogged with dried gas or debris. To clear this hole, with the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed needle adjuster removed, thread a 1/4-28 UNF screw/bolt in place of the high speed needle adjuster (this will place more air pressure against the idle fuel feed hole), apply 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle in the idle mixture screw hole, and place your finger inside the throttle bore over the fuel feed hole, and if you feel air come out of the hole, the hole is cleared out. If air does come out of the idle fuel feed hole, then the welch plug will need to be removed and manually cleared out with a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner. A new welch plug will need to be installed.


If an engine blows black smoke out the exhaust while running, then here are the main causes:

Black exhaust smoke is when an engine is getting too much gas and/or not enough air in the combustion chamber. The causes for this are either... (listed from most common to rare causes)

  1. Choke plate isn't fully opening.
    • Solution: Check for bent choke plate, binding of remote solid wire cable-controlled choke operation or adjust cable that controls opening/closing of choke plate.
  2. Too rich of fuel mixture adjustment on the carburetor.
    • Solution: Adjust carburetor or repair as needed.
  3. Worn float valve (needle and seat).
    • Solution: Install new float valve and seat.
  4. Bad float.
    • Solution: Install new or good used float.
  5. Float out of adjustment.
    • Solution: Set the float level so it's parallel with the carburetor body with the carburetor turned upside-down.
  6. If the fuel baffle/splash shield is hard and stiff, it can push down on the float after the float bowl is installed, preventing the float from shutting off the fuel at the float valve (needle and seat).
    • Solution: Install new fuel baffle/splash shield.
  7. Too much fuel pressure if using a high pressure 12 volt electric fuel pump (more than 4 P.S.I.).
    • Solution: Install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, set it at maximum 4 P.S.I., or install a low pressure 12 volt electric fuel pump.
  8. Hole (orifice) in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) have been drilled too large.
  9. Only one [Kohler or aftermarket] condenser being used with a high-output/performance ignition coil.
    • Solution: Install two [Kohler or aftermarket] condensers or one automotive (Chevrolet/GM) distributor condenser.

Also, sometimes flooding of the carburetor will deposit gas in the crankcase oil, but only in a vertical shaft engine. Because gas can't seep into the crankcase on horizontal shaft engines. The cause of the problem is the carburetor is flooding. The gas seeps past the piston ring gaps and into the crankcase. To fix this, clean the float valve (needle and seat) in the carburetor, or install a new carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit with a new float valve needle and seat. Also, clean out the fuel hoses with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle and install a new fuel filter. And then the crankcase oil will need to be drained and clean/uncontaminated motor oil installed.


The OEM Kohler Carburetor Intake Air/Fuel Mixture Baffle Plate -

The purpose of the OEM Kohler carburetor intake air/fuel mixture baffle plate (discontinued Kohler part #'s 52 063 40-S and 82 755 24-S) is to atomize (be reduced into smaller particles) or "swirl" the incoming air/fuel mixture more efficiently at higher RPM so the engine will produce more horsepower and torque. This part was made by Kohler of stamped .018" thickness aluminum with inside 45º/angled tabs/baffles, and installed on certain opposed (flathead) twin cylinder engines carburetor and intake manifold sandwiched between two (ordinary/.030" thickness) mounting gaskets. According to the official Kohler engine parts list, this particular part originally came on Kohler Magnum model M18 engines with specification numbers: 24620, 24644, 24665, 24666 (all AYP); 24646 (Cub Cadet); model MV18 engines with specification numbers: 58553, 58556, 58560, 58561 (all AYP); and M20 engines with specification numbers: 49603, 49634 (both AYP); and model MV20 engines with specification numbers: 57525 (Exmark); 57526 (Yardman); 57527, 57528, 57529 (all AYP). If you're lucky to find one of these, it can be used on the Kohler single cylinder engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, K330/K331, M14, K341, M16 and K361 to improve the performance at higher RPM. This part is guaranteed to work! It showed a slight increase in horsepower and torque when tested on my personal engine dyno. It's the next best thing to having a fuel injected engine. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

Information About Using a Carburetor Intake Tube/Spacer (Fuel Atomization Chamber) -

Using a fuel atomization chamber intake tube or spacer to distance the carburetor away from the engine block allows the fuel to atomize better (break down into smaller particles or a fine mist) so the engine will produce more power and torque at higher RPM. The further the carburetor is spaced from the engine block (flathead engines) or cylinder head(s) on OHV engines, the better the fuel will atomize and the more power the engine will produce at higher RPMs. It works, and it works great. This is why most makes and models of carbureted small engines [other than the cast iron block single cylinder Kohler] have a long intake tube, and why most naturally-aspirated carbureted high performance automotive V6 and V8 engines use a high-rise intake manifold. Again, it's the next best thing to having a fuel injected engine.

A 1" carburetor spacer will definitely help atomize the fuel into smaller particles so the engine will produce more noticeable power, and it'll help the engine last longer and burn less fuel. On average, dyno tests had proven that engines with a 1" spacer produced about 12% more horsepower and torque. This is why virtually all [aluminum block] Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, and other makes and models of small engines use a factory-installed intake tube. But for some reason, cast iron block single cylinder Kohler engines are the only ones that didn't come with an intake tube.

When choosing the length of the intake tube, it seems that a 3" length works best for gas, and 5" length works best for E85 or methanol. Because gas runs more lean than E85 or methanol, it requires less space or distance to fully atomize (be reduced into smaller particles), and being E85 and methanol fuels run richer, they need more space or distance to fully atomize before these enter the combustion chamber.

For competition pulling, if an association's/club's rules state that no intake tube can be used with the carburetor, the OEM Kohler carburetor intake air/fuel mixture baffle plate (as described above) and/or a heat isolator gasket will work great instead. The heat isolator gasket isolates the carburetor body from the engine heat so when the cool fuel from the carburetor makes contact with the warm/hot engine (intake runner), it will instantly atomize better (be reduced into smaller particles) before it enters the combustion chamber, which will help the engine produce more horsepower and torque. Yet again, it's the next best thing to having a fuel injected engine.

In addition, "roughing up" the inside of the intake tube will help create turbulence to "break up" and atomize the fuel better and should help a Kohler engine produce a few more ponies. This works for automotive engines, and it should work for Kohler engines as well.

On single cylinder Kohler competition pulling engines that run at open RPM, when using a mounting gasket between the intake tube and intake port, due to normal high RPM engine vibrations, the [somewhat soft] gasket will allow the tube (and carburetor) to vibrate and possibly cause one half of the intake port (with a huge enlarged port opening, which weakens the port) to break off. This is based on fact and has been known to happen. So to prevent this from happening, instead of using a gasket, a shallow, narrow groove can be machined in one end of the flange of the tube for a reusable small cross-sectional diameter neoprene rubber O-ring. The O-ring will take place of the gasket to prevent a vacuum leak. The O-ring will compress, guaranteeing metal to metal contact to secure the tube directly to the engine block. The same can be done to a carburetor mounting flange.

Another way to gain more horsepower and torque at virtually any RPM besides roughing up the inside of the intake tube is to fabricate a spiral fuel atomizer from ordinary sheet metal steel. This particular part is made the same length but a few thousandths bigger in width than the intake tube, twisted one time (180º), and is fitted snugly inside the intake tube. This is a dyno-proven add-on and performance modification that increases engine horsepower and torque by about 5-10%.

Also for competition pulling, with an intake tube in use, mounting gaskets are not necessary. Just resurface the carburetor mounting flange and ends of the intake tube (if needed) on a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander to remove warpage and restore flatness (use eye protection!), and then apply a thin bead of clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant with no gasket. When a gasket is used, the bolts or nuts (with studs) are tightened, the softness of the gasket could cause the carburetor flange to warp and possibly break. With no gasket involved, there will be metal to metal contact with the silicone filling in the open gaps between the two metals, and there is NO WAY the flange can warp or possibly break! By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities between mating metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.


The Cause of Slight Carburetor Flooding or "Loading Up on Fuel" at Slow Idle with a High Performance/Long Duration Camshaft -

Sometimes when using a high performance/long duration camshaft, regardless if the engine has a stock or modified carburetor, if the engine idles for a long period of time, it may run rich on fuel at a slow idle speed. What causes this is with a long duration cam, intake vacuum is low and with a single cylinder engine, being the valves stay open longer, excess fuel builds up in the carburetor and/or intake tube. All engines with a long duration camshaft have lower than normal vacuum at slow idle. The longer the duration a cam has, the lower the vacuum. What causes excess fuel to build up in the intake is the long duration of the cam lobes holds the [intake] valve open longer, and at slow idle, pressure of the piston moving upward in the cylinder blows some of the air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. And as the engine is revved up, raw unburned fuel black smoke (gas) will blow out the exhaust pipe until the fuel is cleared out of the carburetor and/or intake tube. With the engine running well above idle, air become trapped within the combustion chamber and the piston don't have time to push any air/fuel back into the carburetor and/or intake tube. This happens with all types of fuels and there's nothing that can be done about it. It's the nature of the long duration camshaft. Some might think when this happens that there's something wrong with the carburetor, and nothing can be done to the idle fuel passageway to prevent this. Just make a simple adjustment with the idle air/fuel mixture screw, set the engine at a fast idle and don't allow the engine to idle for a long period of time. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]


The Major Causes of Carburetor Flooding -

FYI - I don't put any additives in my gas. I think it's a waste of money and effort, and gives false hope. I filter out the dirt and remove any water from the [somewhat fresh] left-over gas that's in my customer's small engine equipment, and dump it in my personal car or truck so it will mix with the fresh gas that's already in the tank. Then I always use fresh/purchased gas with no additives in my customer's small engine equipment.

What prevents most carburetor and fuel system from having problems when using gasoline is to run the engine out of fuel or draining the entire fuel system if it's not going to be used for more than 30 days at a time. If there's no fuel left in the system, then there should be no problems. The following causes are listed from most common to rare.

If fuel drips out of or from the carburetor...

  1. Dirt/debris, lint or hair lodged between float valve and seat. This will prevent the float valve from fully closing against the seat.
    • Solution: Clean float valve and seat, clear out entire fuel system with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle and install new fuel filter.
  2. Old, deteriorated pleated paper fuel filter. The filtering material is brittle, can tear easy, which will allow dirt/debris to pass through the torn opening.
    • Solution: Clean carburetor, clear out entire fuel system with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle and install new fuel filter.
  3. Avoid using 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle through pleated paper fuel filter too many times to clean it out. This will cause the filtering material to tear, rip or "blow out," allowing dirt/debris to pass through the torn opening.
    • Solution: Clean carburetor, clear out entire fuel system with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle and install new fuel filter.
  4. Worn or damaged fuel inlet valve and/or seat.
    • Solution: New replacement required.
  5. Loose float valve seat in carburetor body (if it's the threaded-in type). Sometimes these are not installed tight enough, resulting in a light flooding condition.
    • Solution: If tightening the seat doesn't stop the fuel leak, then a new float valve and seat with a new sealing gasket will need to be installed.
  6. Fuel leak at the carburetor float bowl rubber O-ring seal. Only happens when engine is in operation. Circumference of float bowl not sealing tight against the neoprene rubber O-ring seal and fuel baffle/splash shield in carburetor body.
    • Solution: Remove float bowl, and from inside the bowl, use a small to medium size hammer to flatten the area around the hole where the bolt fastens the float bowl to the carburetor body. Doing this will place more pressure on the circumference of the float bowl against the carburetor body so the O-ring will seal better. Don't over-tighten the float bowl bolt because the threads in the carburetor could strip out. Also, make sure the O-ring and fuel baffle/splash shield are in place when reinstalling the float bowl.

If gas constantly pours out of the carburetor...

  1. Bad or damaged float (hole in float). To test for a bad float, if it's a hollow brass float, remove it from the carburetor and either move it around in your hand or hold it next to your ear. If you feel and hear a sloshing sound, then there's gas inside it. NOTE: Repairing by re-soldering a brass float will most likely not work or last long. NOTE: Do NOT use a propane torch or small oxy-acetylene torch to solder a hole in a brass float that had gas in it! The gas fumes inside WILL cause the float to explode!
    • Solution: New or good/used float replacement is required.
  2. Small hole in bottom of float bowl. This happens to aluminum float bowls and is caused by corrosion from water in the fuel system. Water is heavier than gas. So it goes below the gas and straight to the carburetor. Water will corrode an aluminum float bowl. And during winter, it'll freeze in the float bowl and crush the float.
    • Solution: New replacement of either part is required.
  3. Float stuck to bottom of float bowl. This is caused by engine setting in long term storage with gas left in the gas tank and carburetor. To prevent this from happening at all or happening in the future, drain the entire fuel system, then loosen the float bowl retaining bolt to finish draining all the fuel from the float bowl.
    • Solution: Cleaning of float and bottom of bowl is required. The best way to remove built-up stuck and stubborn debris from inside the float bowl is to use a 2" brass wire cup brush (shown to the right ->) with a hand-held power drill, and then use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out the debris from the main jet hole and clear out the entire float bowl area of the carburetor.
  4. Float valve installed incorrectly. (When installing a new overhaul/rebuild kit.)
    • Solution: The rubber tip (pointed end) goes in the fuel inlet seat and not against the float.
  5. If the carburetor on an engine has been setting for some time without an air cleaner/filter assembly, and if gas pours out of the carburetor only when cranking the engine, especially with a mechanical fuel pump, then the gas stops pouring out when the engine isn't cranked, check for a clogged atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) in the carburetor. Sometimes a mud dauber (wasp-like insect) will build their nest in a place like this. (I've seen this happen a few times with my customer carburetor rebuilds.)
    • Solution: Clear out the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor) and entire carburetor with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle.
  6. If a 12 volt electric fuel pump is being used, it's either producing too much pressure, or if there's a fuel pressure regulator inline, it's set too high or the valve is stuck in position.
    • Solution: Repair or adjust regulator as needed, set the regulator at maximum 4 P.S.I., or install a low pressure 12 volt electric fuel pump.

What makes crankcase oil black is blow-by due to either worn piston rings, carburetor flooding or the engine running rich on fuel (gas). And if there's gas in the oil (you can smell the presence of gas), this means there's a hole in the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. Being there are no fuel pump repair kits available nowadays, an either good used or new replacement fuel pump is required.

How to Separate Gasoline from Water -

No need to dispose of fresh gas just because it's contaminated with water (and/or dirt and debris). And with the price of gas nowadays, this would be a wise thing to do.

  1. Drain the water-contaminated gas from the entire fuel system (gas tank, fuel hose, fuel pump, filter and carburetor) into a clean container of adequate size. When gas is contaminated with water, the water (and dirt/debris) should immediately settle to the bottom of the container and the gas will be on top. You should be able to see the water at the bottom with a bright light.
  2. To separate the gas from the water, carefully pour the gas into another clean container, but watch that the water don't enter the other container, too. If there's dirt/debris floating around or suspended in the water-contaminated gas, place a filtering material, such as a paint filter, coffee filter, fine mesh screen wire, clean cloth shop towel or a fine woven fabric window curtain drooped into a large funnel in a clean container of adequate size, and pour the gas through the filtering material/funnel, and again, watch that the water don't enter the other container. The water can be seen under the gas.
    • NOTE: Adding gas line anti-freeze (alcohol) breaks up or disperse the water into tiny droplets throughout the gas, which then pose no freezing. But if there's A LOT of water in the gas, then the water-contaminated gas will need to be drained and flushed from the entire fuel system. Being water is heavier than gas, it will always go to the bottom in a container or gas tank. With a bright light, you can see the water from the gas in an open container. The water will be at the bottom and the gas will be on top. The water can be separated from the gas by using two containers - pour the gas from the first container into the second container and do not allow the water get into the second container. The gas can still be reused. If the gas has any amount of alcohol (10% or E85), the alcohol will be absorbed by or mixed with the water, to save the alcohol content with the gas, pour the 10%/E85 gas/water from the first container through a genuine (not synthetic) chamois leather (real sheep's skin) drooped into the second container. The chamois must first be soaked with clean gasoline, then the chamois will soak up or absorb the water and allow the alcohol and gas to pass through. Squeeze the water from the chamois, hang it up to dry out, and it can be used for next time.
  3. Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out the remaining water-contaminated gas from the entire fuel system and use a dry shop towel or water-absorbing paper towel clamped to a long needle nosed pliers to soak up the gas/water in the gas tank. If necessary, use a sealed flashlight (to prevent a possible explosion due to gas fumes) to see if the tank is 100% dry.
  4. Pour the water-free gas back in the gas tank and dispose of the contaminated water in the container.

DANGER! IMPORTANT! Gasoline and alcohol fuels are both extremely flammable! Use caution and don't smoke, avoid making sparks or don't have an open flame exposed when working near or with either of them. Work in a well-ventilated area, too.

By the way - As business is booming, we've been to many competition garden tractor pulls through the years and noticed that some pulling tractors leak fuel in places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, I think the safety inspections should include checking the fuel hoses for dry-rotting, cracks, fuel leaks, loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy wheelie bars, too.) The inspectors should grab hold of the fuel hose(s) with their hand, bend it and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This is very important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until a small issue become a major problem, then turn in to a catastrophe. If a pulling club's sanctioning safety rules are enforced, and pullers would build their tractors right and maintain them regularly, there wouldn't be any injuries, fires, or fear of a fire. Click or tap here to read more about a competition garden pulling tractor catching on fire.


If an engine won't idle or idles poorly, if it's a Carter or Kohler carburetor, chances are, there's old, dried gas debris inside the high speed air/fuel needle adjuster tube. To fix this, first, on an adjuster with only one lower hole, carefully enlarge the hole with a 1/32" high speed steel spiral drill bit or 1/32" end mill. Then use a small, bendable mild steel wire, such as a bread wrapper wire twist tie with the coating stripped off, to clean out inside the tube. And use the 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to thoroughly clear out the tube. Suck through the tube with your mouth to make sure it's clear and unclogged. (Proven method that works.) If performing this won't clear out the tube, then a new or used unclogged high speed air/fuel needle adjuster screw will need to be acquired. But make sure it's the correct adjuster for your particular carburetor!

If an engine idles slow when the throttle lever is held to the slowest position by hand, but refuses to idle down on its own, the following may be the causes:

But if an engine idles well, but runs only at higher RPM (up to 3,200 RPM with a fixed/non-adjustable main jet; or 3,600 RPM with an adjustable main jet) with the choke partially closed, or if it surges or hesitates to rev up, this means the engine is running too lean on fuel, and following are the most likely causes: (listed from most common to rare)

FYI - If the spark plug's tip is black and/or has wet gas on it, and if the carburetor has been thoroughly cleaned (multiple times), but you think the problem is still in the carburetor, well, the carburetor is probably working fine because the engine is obviously getting plenty of fuel. As an older, experienced mechanic once said: "Most carburetor problems are electrical." Meaning faulty/weak ignition system. This have been proven true more times than I can remember.


Backfiring out the exhaust upon deceleration is normal for virtually all engines since gas is still going through the combustion chamber, compressing in the exhaust and exploding from the exhaust heat. But if an engine constantly backfires out the exhaust at any speeds after running for several minutes, the problem may be...


The fuel solenoid used on newer Briggs & Stratton, Kohler, etc., engines is located on the bottom of the float bowl. The spring-loaded plunger in it stops the fuel supply to the combustion chamber by blocking off the main jet as soon as the ignition is turned off. With this type of fuel solenoid, the engine will die immediately when the ignition is turned off. This solenoid also prevents a loud BANG out the muffler when the ignition is turned off while the engine is hot. Without it, when the [hot] engine is turned off while throttled up, unburned gas will continue to pass through the combustion chamber, build up in the still red-hot muffler where the gas is compressed with hot air, and then produce a loud BANG out the muffler.

The solenoid is supposed to make a "click" sound when the ignition is turned on. When in doubt rather it's the solenoid that's defective or bad wiring on the tractor, the solenoid can be tested with a 12 volt battery. With the solenoid removed from the carburetor, connect the battery positive (+) post to the solenoid wire, and connect the battery negative (–) post to the body of the solenoid. If the plunger quickly withdraws in the solenoid body, it's in good condition. If it doesn't withdraw, then the wire connecting to the solenoid has an open in it.

If the solenoid fails to function, it can be replaced with a new one, or remove it and simply snip off the protruding pin (plunger rod), and reinstall it. Doing this will allow the engine to draw fuel and run. But remember to idle the engine down for a few minutes each time before shutting it off, or like I said, it may produce a loud BANG out the muffler.

Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.


Kohler Anti-Backfire/Engine Shut-Off Solenoid Valve Kit. This anti-backfire solenoid valve fits in the carburetor and shuts off the engine when the ignition is turned off. The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch is turned on to allow incoming air in the float bowl so the engine will run. When the ignition is turned off, it blocks off the incoming air in the float bowl to create a vacuum in the float bowl to prevent fuel from entering the combustion chamber, so the engine eventually shuts down. And with no raw fuel in the hot muffler, there is no possibility of a backfire. When the solenoid fails to function, the engine will not start. This particular part is designed for Kohler engine models K181 with specification numbers 13802, 13803, 13804, 13805, 13806, 13807, 13808, 13809, 13810, 13811, 13812, 13813, 13814, 13815, 13816, 13817, 13818, 13820, 30671, 30715, 30739; M18 with specification numbers 24610, 24637, 24652; M20 with specification numbers 49547, 49564, 49605; K582 with specification numbers 36246, 36249, 36261, 36266, 36268, 36285, 36310, 36327, 36337, 36350, 36371, 36373, 36374, 36376, 36382, 36392, 24600, 24603. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 05-S. $101.45 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine models M18 with specification numbers: 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592, 24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664, 24674, 24696, 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565, 49569, 49570, 49572; M20 with specification numbers: 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20 with specification numbers: 57501-57514, 57527, 57528 is no longer available, to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid and valve, cut short 3/8" threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first and use compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out the metal cuttings afterwards), and install a short 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't thread the set screw deep into the hole, or it will block off outside atmospheric air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid and with the conversion, the engine will require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark. And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the chance of a backfire out the muffler.

How To Loosen a Gummed-Up, Stuck, Corroded or Rusted-In-Place Throttle or Choke Shaft, or Adjusting Screw -

EVAPO-RUST® and Metal Rescue are very safe products to use and works wonders to remove rust and loosen virtually any rusted or corroded metal part! Just soak the carburetor body for 1 hour for light rust and up to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust. Then use small locking pliers (Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth . Don't force it because it could become twisted and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate (loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and swivel 100% free. These products are very safe to use and they work wonders on virtually anything that's rusted!

Or use a heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of them will remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove rust, then that's the one to use. Pour the cleaner in a container that's large enough for the carburetor body, and allow it to soak for about 30 minutes and then rinse it off with water. The throttle or choke shaft should swivel with no problems.

Or use distilled white vinegar to remove rust from the outside of gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any exterior steel or cast iron object. Check it out here: vinegar rust removal - YouTube. Distilled white vinegar will not remove rust from inside a gas tank because it cannot be "rubbed loose" by hand from inside the tank.

GUNK Liquid Wrench® also works wonders to loosen virtually any rusted or corroded metal part! Just spray the ends of the throttle or choke shaft, let soak for about 30 minutes or perhaps overnight, then use small locking pliers (Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth . Don't force it because it could become twisted and/or break off at the closest plate retaining screw hole! It may rotate (loosen) just a few thousandths of an inch. After it rotates slightly, spray it again and gently rotate it again. Eventually, it should rotate more and swivel 100% free.

If the shaft(s) refuse to loosen with either Evapo-Rust, Liquid Wrench or heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner, remove the float bowl, float, fuel baffle/splash shield and O-ring seal. Clamp the carburetor in a bench vice, then use a propane torch or an oxy-acetylene torch to LIGHTLY heat the carburetor body next to the shaft (don't get the carburetor body too hot!), and use the locking pliers (Vise Grip) to GENTLY rotate the shaft back and forth . The shaft should swivel 100% free within a few seconds of heating. Heating might also work to remove a stuck-in-place idle speed adjuster screw, idle fuel mixture screw or the main adjuster screw. Be very gentle rotating a brass screw to loosen it because being brass is a soft metal, it could snap off! And be careful not to get cast aluminum too hot, it may crumble or split into pieces! Don't use a torch in an attempt to remove a stuck main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) from a carburetor that's in good condition. Being the aluminum surrounding the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) is thin, it will most likely crumble or split into pieces under the severe heat, rendering the carburetor useless. Click here to learn how to remove the main jet/nozzle.

How to Clean the Inside of a Heavily Rusted or Dirty Metal gas tank -

Fill the gas tank with EVAPO-RUST®, Metal Rescue™, or a heavy duty bathroom toilet bowl cleaner. Most of these will remove rust and scale. If it reads on the label that it will remove rust, then that's the one to use. Leave it for 1 hour for light rust and up to 12 hours for extremely heavy rust, drain and flush with clean water, allow to thoroughly dry. These products are very safe to use and they work wonders on virtually anything that's rusted! Or use distilled white vinegar to remove rust from inside gas tanks, tools, bolts/nuts, clutch pressure plates or virtually any steel or cast iron part: vinegar rust removal - YouTube.

Another method to clean an internally rusted or especially dirty gas tank, put some small driveway gravel in the tank with water, seal the fuel outlet fitting and gas cap vent holes (make sure the gas cap has a good seal), then literally and vigorously shake the heck out of it! Or for less tiresome labor, put the gravel and water in the tank, seal it up, securely tie a blanket around it and then put it in a clothes dryer or fasten it in an electric paint shaker. Set the dryer on the cold or "No Heat" setting, and let the dryer tumble or paint shaker shake for a couple of hours. When the water is drained and majority of the gravel removed, use a garden water hose to thoroughly clean out inside the tank. It should look new inside. If there's still some rust or dirt/debris in it, repeat the process until all the rust or dirt/debris is broken loose. And regardless of what you may have heard, putting sugar in a gas tank will NOT ruin the engine! Don't believe in everything you hear. Read about it here: snopes.com: Sugar in the gas tank. YouTube link: Sugar in Your Gas Engine gas tank.

How to Repair a Hole in a Metal Fuel or Oil Storage Tank -

If virtually any kind of ferrous metal (steel) tank have a rusted or dented hole in it and leaks fuel or liquid, it can be successfully repaired by using a quality-made gas tank sealant. But if the hole is too large for the sealant, and if the tank is made of steel, a reputable automotive radiator repair shop can solder a [tin] patch over the hole. Then ask them to pressure test the tank filled with air submerged in water to see if the patched hole leaks (bubbles). They usually have rubber expansion plugs of various sizes to block-off the inlet and outlet openings or ports.


How to Remove the OEM Carter or Kohler Soft Brass Throttle or Choke Shaft Retaining Screws Without Breaking Them Off - [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

First of all, I hate when people throw away a reusable throttle or choke shaft just because it has a broken off throttle or choke plate retaining screw in it. The only reason most carburetor manufacturers install soft brass screws in the throttle and choke shafts is because the protruding threaded ends can be easily flared to prevent the screws from loosening and becoming dislodged. This saves the factory money from not having to use lock washers or liquid threadlocker. A dislodged throttle plate screw could be sucked into the combustion chamber and become lodged between the intake valve and seat, bend the exhaust valve, or damage the cylinder head and top of the piston. But f the OEM soft brass throttle or choke shaft screws do come out without breaking off, they should never be reused because the area in the threads can be distorted or over-stretched from being overtightened, which could cause the screw to eventually break off.

Anyway, when removing these screws and to prevent them from breaking off, first, grind down the protruding/flared ends with a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either a very small grinding stone (chainsaw sharpening stone) or an 1/8" high speed steel end mill until the threads are flush with the shaft. Then the screws can be easily removed from the shaft without breaking them off. Be sure to use a quality-made screwdriver with a flat blade and square edge that fits the slot of the screw head perfectly to prevent from distorting or "stripping out" the slot. (This is why A-1 Miller's use and offer for sale hardened 18-8 stainless steel screws [with split lock washers]. Unlike [OEM] soft brass screws, 18-8 stainless steel will not strip out or break off under normal installation.)

But should a brass screw break off in the throttle or choke shaft without first grinding down the protruding/flared end, sometimes the shaft can be difficult to remove from the carburetor body due to the protruding flared end. Or if the slot in the screw head gets "stripped-out." In this case, use the Dremel to grind the flared end of the [broken] screw and/or grind off the head of the screw until it's flush with the shaft. Then the shaft can be removed. Afterwards, the broken screw can be drilled out using a milling machine clamped in a vise with a 1/16" center bit drill to make a small depression in the exact center of the broken screw to prevent "drill bit skating" so either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm drill bit can be used to drill out the rest of the broken screw, and then the threads may need to be straightened/cleaned with a 3-48 UNC taper hand tap. Don't use a center punch on the broken screw. This could bend the shaft, create a crack when straightened, possibly cause it to break later when in use. The throttle and choke shafts in Carter and Kohler carburetors originally come with 3-48 UNC screws. A #3 split lock washer should be used with a 3-48 UNC screw. Should the threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw, the hole(s) can be made bigger with a 4-40 UNC tap, and a 4-40 UNC screw with a #4 split lock washer will need to be installed. By the way - liquid threadlocker is not required with a lock washer. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]


Correct Orientation and Installation of the Throttle Plate and Choke Plate for Carter, Kohler and Walbro Carburetors - [Return To Previous Website, Paragraph or Section]

Operation of the throttle plate and it works: All genuine OEM factory-made throttle plates, rather if it's for a small engine, automotive, farm tractor, industrial engine, etc., are made 3% oblong or "egg-shape", and have a slight angle on the edges that seal against the sides of the throttle bore when the throttle plate is fully closed. The oblong shape and angles prevent the majority of incoming air from entering the combustion chamber when the throttle is in the idle position so the engine can draw air and 100% fuel through the idle fuel passageway in the carburetor so the engine can run at a low speed. With the throttle plate closed, low air vacuum occurs through the throttle bore and no fuel is drawn out of or through the [high speed] main jet/nozzle. When the throttle is opened and the engine is revved up, high velocity of air is drawn through the throttle bore and then fuel is drawn out of or through the main jet/nozzle. And when the engine is running approximately above 2,000 RPM, no fuel is drawn through the idle fuel passageway.

If the throttle shaft is removed to install a new bushing and/or a new throttle shaft, or if the venturi is to be bored-out (and the main jet/nozzle removed for a reworked carburetor on a competition pulling engine), the throttle plate must be removed first. Read the article above or click here to learn how to properly remove the throttle (and choke) plate.

To reinstall the throttle plate correctly, on the Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors, the C (Carter), K (Kohler) or W (Walbro) stamped on the throttle plate faces outward and toward your right when facing the throttle bore with the carburetor positioned right side up and float bowl down or toward you, as shown in the photo to the right ->. Back off the idle speed adjustment screw so it doesn't make contact with the throttle lever to allow the throttle plate be in the fully closed position. This will allow for the throttle plate to rest 100% in the throttle bore and against the throttle shaft. Make sure the throttle plate is centered with the throttle bore in the fully closed position and against the throttle shaft. Use the tips of a small [pointy] needle-nose pliers to align the holes in the throttle plate with the screw holes in the throttle shaft. Install and tighten the retaining screws with lock washers. If the throttle plate is installed in reverse or not 100% centered with the throttle bore, too much air will by-pass the throttle plate and the engine will not be able to idle down at a slow speed. Most aftermarket/ oblong throttle plates are not stamped with a letter and don't have the angle on the sides, so they can be installed in either direction, and they should seal 100% to allow the engine idle down just as well.

And when reinstalling a choke plate, make sure it's correctly aligned and centered with the intake end of the carburetor on the choke shaft when in the fully closed position. If the choke plate is not installed correctly, it will not close fully, and the engine will be hard to start or may not start at all (without the assistance of a remote fuel primer system installed).

IMPORTANT! ALWAYS install the lock washers (or apply medium strength liquid threadlocker) on the threads of the throttle (and choke) plate screws, and tighten them securely to prevent them from possibly loosening and being sucked into the combustion chamber, and getting lodged between the intake or exhaust valve and seat, which can possibly cause the valve to bend, or lodge on top of the piston, which can cause damage to the piston and cylinder head, and possibly the cylinder wall. Do the job right the first time and it won't have to be done again later, possibly with devastating results. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]


How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube) from a Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor - [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) CarburetorWhen rebuilding a plain, stock Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor, there is really no need to remove the main jet/nozzle. If the main jet/nozzle will not come out, don't worry about it. All that has to be done is make sure that the bottom hole and side holes in the main jet/nozzle are open. To check if the side holes are open, simply spray WD-40 or aerosol carburetor cleaner through the small hole just beneath the choke plate and observe if it comes out the main jet/nozzle inside the throttle bore and float bowl area.

But if the main jet/nozzle is clogged, or if you're boring the venturi to modify/rework the carburetor for high performance use, then the main jet/nozzle must be removed. Before attempting to remove the main jet/nozzle, and if the screwdriver slot is in good condition, then I found the best, easiest and proven way to remove it is by the following process. This method works great most of the time and the main jet/nozzle should loosen with no problems.

  1. Remove the idle fuel mixture screw (so it won't get bent) and the high speed needle adjuster so the tip won't get damaged when performing the procedure mentioned below.
  2. Cradle the carburetor body upside down (float area facing up) lengthways on the open jaws of a large bench vise.
  3. Place a hand impact tool or a quality-made flat blade screwdriver with a good, square end wide enough to fit the entire width of the threaded hole and thick enough for more contact with the slot in the main jet/nozzle.
  4. Using a medium size hammer, strike the impact driver or screwdriver sharply and perpendicular several times while at the same time rotating the main jet/nozzle counterclockwise by hand (with the screwdriver) to loosen it. Do not use a wooden handle screwdriver because the handle could break.
  5. If the above È didn't work, then perform the removal method mentioned below Ê.

If the above È method still didn't work, then unfortunately, sometimes the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) will get stuck in place and the screwdriver slot will strip out. (I hate when this happens.) Do not use an Easy Out [Broken] Screw Extractor! With this tool, the tapered shape will force the main jet/nozzle to swell or spread outward (cause it to increase in diameter), and the deeper it goes, it could possibly crack the aluminum tube, rendering the carburetor body useless. The alternative method to remove the main jet/nozzle is to drill it out. This process is performed as follows:

  1. First, remove the high speed needle adjuster so it will not get damaged and interfere with the removal of the main jet/nozzle.
  2. Firmly clamp the carburetor body with the mounting and choke ends making contact with the jaws of a bench vise with the float area facing upward.
  3. Drill perpendicular directly through the center of the main jet/nozzle with a 3/16" drill bit, then carefully enlarge the hole with a 9/32" drill bit, and finally finish drilling the hole with a 19/64" drill bit. Drill about 1" depth into the main jet/nozzle.
  4. Being very gentle, use a long, slender tapered punch with a very sharp, pointed end and a small hammer to collapse the thin threads (thin remains) of the main jet/nozzle. NOTE: Be very careful when doing this! Because the aluminum tube could crack, rendering the carburetor body useless.
  5. Pry out the remains of the main jet/nozzle with needle-nose pliers. If you're not able to remove the entire main jet/nozzle with needle-nose pliers, insert a 7/32" diameter steel rod through the high speed needle adjuster hole and drive out the remains of the main jet/nozzle with the hammer. May have to position the rod slightly angled through the hole so it can make contact with the end of the nozzle to drive it out.
  6. With the remains of the main jet/nozzle removed, use a 3/8-24 UNF plug hand tap to reshape and clean the threads for installation of another main jet/nozzle. Install a new main jet/nozzle, or a good used one from a junk/useless carburetor. (See below.)

If the main jet/nozzle in a junk/useless Carter or Kohler carburetor is stuck and cannot be removed with a screwdriver, the threaded tube can be split with either a nut splitter, flat cold chisel and hammer (with the tube placed on a hard, flat surface), or heat the tube with a propane torch or an oxy-acetylene torch until it splits apart. If attempting to use the nut splitter, be careful not to damage the main jet/nozzle itself! After the main jet/nozzle is removed, use a hacksaw to cut the screwdriver slot slightly deeper in the main jet/nozzle so it can be reused in another carburetor.


How to Remove the Main Jet/Nozzle (Emulsion Tube) from a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 Carburetor for Cleaning -

If the main jet/nozzle in a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181 needs to be removed for cleaning, being this type of nozzle is pressed in the carburetor body. It removes and reinstalls a lot easier than the above È main jet/nozzle. The removal and installation process is as follows:

  1. Remove the idle fuel mixture screw (so it won't get bent upon reinstallation of the main jet/nozzle), high speed needle adjuster, float bowl and float.
  2. Place the carburetor body right-side up (float area facing down) on the open jaws of a bench vise. Position the carburetor body crossways on the vise jaws so the float hinge loops won't break off. Do not tighten the vise jaws against the carburetor body.
  3. Using a 4" length x 11/64" (.172") diameter steel punch with a blunt end and a small hammer, go through the high speed needle hole from the top side of the carburetor, and drive the main jet/nozzle out from the bottom of carburetor body.
  4. To reinstall the main nozzle, place the carburetor body upside-down on the open jaws of the vise and use a 1/4" diameter steel [roll pin] punch and small hammer to drive it in until it bottoms out, and the end can be seen in the venturi.

By the way - as far as I know, new main jet/nozzles for the Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor is not available from any source.


How to Remove a Broken-Off High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Needle Screw from a Carter or Kohler Carburetor -

Sometimes when an engine sits with gas in the fuel system, the old, dried gas residue will cause the high speed air/fuel adjuster to become seized in the carburetor body. And when attempting to remove it, the hollow tube could will break off flush with the carburetor body. (Anything is possible with soft brass and old, dried gas.) Anyway, The removal process of a broken-off main adjuster is as follows:

  1. Reach in through the choke end with needle-nose pliers or small long/needle-nose Vise-Grips locking pliers and break off the needle part of the adjuster.
  2. From the top of the carburetor body, drill out the threaded part of the adjuster with a 3/16" drill bit, then work up to a 7/32" bit. Be sure to drill straight down into the adjuster! For precision and full control of the drilling process, this is best performed with the carburetor body clamped in a vice that's fastened on the table of a milling machine. (The broken adjuster may screw on out on its own when drilling it.)
  3. If it don't screw out when drilling it, use a long, slender taper punch with a very pointed end to collapse the remains of the adjuster so it can be removed with the needle-nose pliers.
  4. Use a 1/4-28 UNF plug hand tap to clean and straighten the threads for installation of another adjuster.

If you don't feel comfortable removing the broken adjuster yourself, I charge $30.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling, to remove a broken adjuster.


Using Pump Gas with 10% Ethanol Versus 100% Race Gas in a Pulling Tractor -

First of all, in an daily-driven vehicle, gasoline with no lead is hard on soft cast iron exhaust valve seats. A soft cast iron valve seat is one that's been machined directly into an engine block or cylinder head, and it have not been heated-treated or no hardened insert is installed. In a daily-driven automobile, the seat(s) will eventually deteriorate or the metal will literally "wear away" because the absence of lead in gas to provide a protective coating to prevent wear. And being most exhaust valves are made of extremely hardened steel, they're not likely to wear at all. The intake valve and the cast iron seat is not likely to wear as much, if any. And an engine block or cylinder head with heat-treated seats or have hardened steel exhaust valve seat insert(s) installed, they should not wear whatsoever.

Anyway, the 10% ethanol in pump gas (common everyday automotive fuel) lessens exhaust emissions. Plus, the alcohol content boosts the octane, making it somewhat of a high performance fuel. The lead content in race gas (VP Racing Fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.) boosts the octane also, except it's alcohol-free to pass the tech fuel test for tractor pulling. And the valve seat(s) that's ground in a cast iron block in a competition pulling engine burning 87 octane unleaded regular gas should last a long time, no longer than the tractor runs down the track (2-3 minutes per pull). They're not being driven a long distance, like in a car or truck. How to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.)

Older-formula mothballs have also been used by drag racers to enhance the octane rating of fuel, by dissolving the mothballs in some of the fuel and filtering out the remains with a filter paper.

Adding 2 cycle engine oil to gasoline will also boost the octane rating of the gas because the oil slows down the combustion process. The length of the combustion burning process depends on the amount of oil added to the gas. The oil content will help lubricate the cylinder wall and valves.

Average Octane Rating of Various Fuels | Remember - Only high compression engines benefit from the use of high octane fuel to increase the power output. High octane fuels have no effect whatsoever and will not increase the power output when used in a low compression engine.
  • Regular unleaded automotive gasoline (without 10% ethanol): 87 octane.
  • Premium unleaded automotive gasoline with 10% ethanol: 91-92 octane.
  • Leaded aviation gas/jet fuel: 100 octane.
  • E30: 98.6 octane.
  • E85: 105 octane.
  • Liquefied Petroleum (LP) or Propane: 100-110 octane.
  • Leaded race gas (VP Racing Fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Torco, etc.): approximately 110 octane.
  • 100% methanol: 110 octane.
  • 100% ethanol: 110-112 octane.
  • 99% isopropyl alcohol (Main ingredient in rubbing alcohol and gas line antifreeze to disperse water in fuel): 120 octane.
  • Denatured alcohol: 130 octane.
  • Hydrogen fuel: approximately 130 octane.
  • Compressed Natural Gas (CNG): 130 octane.

By the way - I've never had problems with gas having 10% ethanol in any of my small engines or automotive engines. I don't know why anyone else would. Maybe that's because when one is having problems with a small engine not running right, it's much easier to just blame it on "bad gas" than to look for the real problem elsewhere with the engine. Remember - it takes three things to make an internal combustion engine run: carburetion, compression and ignition. A professional, thorough and energetic mechanic don't blame the problem on one thing and overlook the other two. Unless of course, he's lazy and looking to make some quick money by doing an easy fix.

NOTE: The main jet (and fuel inlet hole) should not be enlarged for alcohol-free, high octane racing gas, such as VP Racing fuel, Turbo Blue, Sunoco, Premium gas, or gas with 10% ethanol, because these fuels require the same air/fuel mixture ratio as for ordinary, low octane automotive gas. If the main jet hole (orifice) is intentionally enlarged for gasoline-based fuels, the engine will run too rich on fuel, and there'll be no way to lean it out. How to test for alcohol content in gasoline. (Requires Adobe Acrobat Reader and use Google Chrome web browser for a faster download of websites with large files.)

Nostalgic Memorabilia -

Back in the day (early 1980s and earlier), gasoline at most filling service gas stations for various [automotive and other types of] engines were for the following compression ratios: For an engine with a compression ratio up to 9.25:1, it was safe to use Regular gasoline (low octane); if the compression ratio is between 9.25:1-10.50:1, the engine required Premium gasoline, which was also known as High Test gasoline in various locations (mid octane); and for compression ratios above 10.50:1, the engine required Ethyl gasoline (high octane). Nowadays, due to the lead content in Ethyl, it's been replaced with Premium Unleaded, which was also known as Super Unleaded in various locations. Actually, ALL gasoline back in the day contained lead to boost the octane and protect soft cast iron valve seats from wearing.

I'd also like to share this old gas station joke: Car owner that just pulled up to the pump at a full service gas station says to the gas station attendant: "Fill 'er up... Ethyl!"
Gas station attendant: "I'll fill up your car, and don't call me Ethel."

FYI - Until the late 1960s, certain Chevrolet small block muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high as 11.25:1, and certain Chevrolet [427] big block muscle car engines had a compression ratio as high as 14:1! (That was the good ol' days of hot rodding!) In fact, back in the day, Chevrolet was the only one out of the top three car manufacturers that had the highest compression ratio.

When to Use a Gravity Feed Fuel Flow System -

Gravity feed is defined as when the fuel is drawn or pulled downward by gravity; the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, and there's no fuel pump involved. Anyway, when burning gas only (not 100% alcohol/methanol fuel) and if an engine is going to run no faster than 4,000± RPM (governed RPM limit; the factory setting of maximum RPM for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), then a gravity feed fuel system with the lowest part of the gas tank positioned higher than the carburetor (especially on a hillside), stock fuel fittings and neoprene rubber fuel hose should work fine.

A fuel pump is required ONLY when the lowest part of the gas tank or when the entire tank is positioned lower than the carburetor, and when used especially on a hillside. The fuel pump supplies fuel up to the carburetor. Otherwise, if the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned higher than the carburetor at all times, then the engine can run on a gravity feed fuel system with no problems.


Information About the Pulse-Type/Vacuum-Operated Fuel Pump - [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

All pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pumps operate off of the air pressure/vacuum inside an engine's crankcase. The moving piston(s) inside the crankcase create a pulsating effect of air ç back and forth to activate the pump's diaphragm, which pumps the fuel to the carburetor. And all pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pumps come with three barbed hose fittings - one that connects to the engine crankcase (PULSE), one that connects from the gas tank (IN) and another that connects to the carburetor (OUT). These should be embossed on the pump body. But if it doesn't, then the fitting coming from the center of the pump connects to the crankcase port. And as for the other two fittings, one connects to the gas tank outlet and the other fitting connects to the carburetor inlet.

If the engine in a lawn and garden tractor, small motorized vehicle or ATV/UTV sputters and/or dies after going over rough terrain, this could be caused by a defective pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump. Overtime, the fuel pump bodies become warped and oil in the crankcase is preventing air from pulsating the diaphragm the way it should. If the engine has a 12 volt electrical system with a charging system, it'll be better to install a low pressure 12 volt electric fuel pump. These rarely give trouble.

To test a plastic body pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump, first check that the fuel hose between the gas tank and fuel pump is open and unobstructed, or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can cause a vacuum leak. To test it, disconnect the fuel hose from the fuel pump and wrap a shop/business towel or clean rag around an air blower nozzle and then insert the nozzle with the rag or towel in the gas tank filler neck. Apply light air pressure in the tank. If fuel comes out of the fuel hose, then it's open. After that, reconnect the fuel hose to the fuel pump. To test the fuel pump itself, first check the hose that connects the fuel pump to the engine crankcase to see if it has a kink in it or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can also cause a vacuum leak. If it's in good condition, then the final step is to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor and with adequate amount of fuel in the gas tank, crank the engine and at the same time observe how much fuel is being pumped out of the pump. If there seems to be adequate amount of fuel coming from it, hold your finger over the end of the line and while still cranking the engine, it should build up a small amount of pressure. If none or very little fuel comes out of the pump, then it's bad and needs replacing.

When a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump fails to pump fuel, in most cases, the body of the fuel pump will become warped, causing a vacuum leak either from within or from the outside, preventing the diaphragm from pulsating. If the diaphragm is still flexible, chances are, the pump can be repaired by resurfacing the body halves on a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) If the body halves is warped, the sander/grinder will make contact where the screw holes are, but not the area between the screw holes.

If the bottom of the gas tank is lower than the carburetor, then the engine definitely needs a fuel pump. If the engine didn't originally come with a fuel pump, and has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump and/or no 12 volt power output/supply to use a low pressure 12 volt electric fuel pump, here's how to install a universal pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump on virtually any small gas engine:

  1. A vacuum hose fitting can be installed in the valve (rocker arm) cover of an OHV engine, or for a flathead engine, use a block-off plate to cover the existing mechanical fuel pump opening. On an OHV engine, remove the rocker cover, and drill a 21/32" hole in the desired location, and cut 1/8" NPT threads in the drilled hole, and then install an 1/8-NPT x 1/4" barbed end [fuel] hose fitting to serve as the vacuum-pulse port. On a flathead engine, don't install the fitting in the outer crankcase breather cover. It doesn't hold crankcase vacuum. The plate behind it with the reed valve does.
  2. A pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump will work well with the OEM Kohler oval shape fuel pump block-off cover plate (part # 240282-S) used on certain Kohler K-series engines with a 21/32" port hole drilled and threads cut with an 1/8" NPT hand tap, and an 1/8" NPT x 1/4" hose fitting installed.
  3. Or a hose fitting can be installed directly in the engine block/crankcase. To do this, locate a place on the crankcase that's easily accessible, drill a 21/32" hole in the desired location, and cut 1/8" NPT threads in the drilled hole. Be sure to drill the hole and install the fitting above the oil level in the crankcase to insure that air pressure within the crankcase will activate the fuel pump and to prevent a possible oil leak. IMPORTANT - To prevent metal cuttings from entering inside the crankcase, block off or plug the crankcase breather vent hole, and apply 150± P.S.I. compressed air through the oil fill opening or oil dipstick tube with a shop towel or plastic wrapped tightly around the air nozzle to create air pressure inside the crankcase so the metal cuttings will be blown outward and not enter inside the crankcase while drilling the hole and cutting the threads. Be sure to use eye protection, too!
  4. Install the [fuel] hose fitting in the threaded hole with plumber's thread sealing tape on the threads to guarantee a leak-proof seal to prevent any oil seepage.
  5. Connect a 1/4" I.D. neoprene rubber vacuum or fuel hose from the fitting on the rocker cover or crankcase to the appropriate fitting on the vacuum fuel pump (this will activate the pump).
  6. Connect a 1/4" I.D. fuel hose from the gas tank to the fitting on the pump marked IN ç.
  7. Connect a 1/4" I.D. fuel hose from the carburetor to the fitting on the pump marked OUT è.
  8. Install clamps on all the hoses/fittings to prevent a vacuum, oil and/or fuel leak, and to insure proper function of the pump.
  9. Mount the fuel pump securely and position the hoses away from any exhaust heat. The pump should now work great!

NOTE: It doesn't matter if a small amount of crankcase oil gets in the vacuum-pulse hose. This is normal and the fuel pump will still work just fine being air, along with the oil, will be pulsating back and forth , which activates the diaphragm in the pump that is created by the movement of the engine piston(s). [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

Troubleshooting a Faulty Pulse-Type/Vacuum-Operated and Mechanical Fuel Pump -

If an engine sits for about one week or longer, if the fuel in the carburetor evaporates and it's hard to start, or fuel must be squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started, then this means that the pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump mechanical fuel pump may be bad. The inlet valve in the pump is leaking, which is allowing the fuel to drain back into the gas tank with the engine off. As the pump tries to syphon fuel from the tank to refill the carburetor, it's unable because the inlet valve is bad. Solution: a new fuel pump will need to be installed. By the way - the halves of the plastic and metal body fuel pumps cannot be interchanged. When a vacuum or mechanical fuel pump quits working, the causes are listed below:
  • Gasket/diaphragm mating surfaces on pump halves warped, causing vacuum leak and/or external fuel leak. (This is common with mechanical fuel pumps.)
    • Solution: Completely disassemble fuel pump (except for pump lever), resurface both halves on a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) Remove any rough edges with a deburring tool and thoroughly clean all parts afterwards.
  • Poppet valve dislodged from its cavity in pump cover. (This happens often.)
    • Solution: Disassemble fuel pump, reinstall valve in its recess (in the correct position) and carefully peen the metal or plastic around it. If the valve won't stay in place, the only option is to acquire another fuel pump cover that's in good condition, acquire a used fuel pump that's in good condition, or acquire a new fuel pump.
  • Corrosion damage due to contamination with water. (Inside aluminum fuel pump cover.)
    • Solution: If it can't be thoroughly cleaned internally, acquire another fuel pump cover that's in good condition, acquire a used fuel pump that's in good condition, or acquire a new fuel pump.
  • Deteriorated diaphragm. (This rarely happens, but when it does, there'll be presence of gas in the crankcase oil.)
    • Solution: Install a new diaphragm, or acquire a good diaphragm from a faulty fuel pump, acquire a used fuel pump that's in good condition, or acquire a new fuel pump.
  • Cracked (split) threads in tapered threaded inlet or outlet ports. (This happens when the (NPT) tapered thread fuel fittings are over-tightened.)
    • Solution: Acquire another fuel pump cover that's in good condition, acquire a used fuel pump that's in good condition, or acquire a new fuel pump.


What Exactly Is Fuel "Vapor Lock"?

Vapor lock only happens with certain older carbureted cars and trucks with a mechanical fuel pump that's fastened to the engine block. Vapor lock occurs when the [metal] gas line is too close to the hot exhaust, and when the vehicle is in slow traffic, the fuel is moving very slow in the line. Due to extreme heat from the exhaust and on a hot day, and the fan blade not blowing that much air past the exhaust, sometimes the heat will cause the gas to boil, forming air bubbles or air pockets, and the fuel vaporizes, and then the fuel pump can't pump vaporized fuel (air). So as soon as the carburetor runs out of fuel, the engine stalls. The fuel pump will "lock" with vapors trapped inside it. When the vehicle cools, incoming gas will force the air out of the fuel pump and through the carburetor, allowing the fuel to return to the pump, and then the engine will start and run again. This don't happen nowadays with automobiles having fuel injection because the entire fuel hose is pressurized.

But on lawn- or garden-tractors, the fuel hose is located nowhere near the hot exhaust. What is really happening when the engine stalls, is either the fuel system is dirty, the ignition coil is bad, or there's insufficient valve to lifter clearance.


Using a Mechanical Fuel Pump -

First of all, a fuel pump is required ONLY when the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned lower than the carburetor, or when burning methanol fuel. It pumps fuel up to the carburetor when gravity will not allow sufficient fuel flow to the carburetor. Otherwise, if the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, the engine can successfully run solely on a gravity feed fuel system.

Mechanical plastic and metal body fuel pumps are very durable and they work pretty well, for both lawn and garden tractors, small motorized vehicle and stock competition garden pulling tractors burning gas only. They will not pump enough fuel with methanol. Anyway, the OEM neoprene rubber diaphragm or gaskets rarely go bad in the mechanical fuel pump. When they fail to pump any fuel, it's usually due to the fuel pump cover and body become warped due to pressure from the retaining screws, or one of the poppet valves get damaged. They can become dislodged from their counterbore, or rusted or corroded from long term water contamination. If the poppet valves are in good condition and snug in their counterbores, but if the pump doesn't pump fuel, then in most cases, the cover and body have become warped, creating a vacuum leak at the diaphragm/gasket between the cover and body. To fix this, separate the fuel pump cover from the body, and resurface each on a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) After resurfacing, remove any rough edges with a deburring tool, and thoroughly clean all the parts with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle before reassembly. After reassembly of the pump, it should work good as new. But if this doesn't fix the problem, or if one of the poppet valves is damaged, then perhaps a new or used reconditioned pump will need to be acquired.

By the way - most [new design] aftermarket small engine plastic-body mechanical fuel pumps rarely warp between the screws that fasten the cover and body together because the material is much thicker in this area. Only the older OEM Kohler plastic- and metal-body mechanical fuel pumps warp between the screws because the material is the same thickness where the screws are.

The only problem when using a gasket to fasten the mechanical fuel pump to the block is, being the mounting flange is so thin, it will warp over time, causing an oil leak. (This happens with every pump I've seen.) To fix this, and to [possibly] prevent an oil leak in the future, completely disassemble the pump, remove the lever and arm (be careful not to lose the spring) and use a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) The trick to reinstalling the spring is, reinstall the arm, lever and support pin in the pump body first, then install the spring with a small, flat screwdriver. (The pumps with the manual fuel primer lever is harder to reassemble.) To keep the flange from warping again, fasten it directly to the block using only clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant and use no gasket, or use a very thin gasket. Finally, install a flat washer (and of course, a split lock washer) under each mounting screw head to distribute even pressure on the flange and to prevent the screws from loosening. By the way - I've always preferred to use clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant for three reasons: Gaskets don't always seal the irregularities and imperfections between mating metals, especially thin metal covers; being it's an adhesive, it bonds parts together, forming a leak-proof seal; and being it's clear, it makes for a clean and professional-looking repair job. When applied sparingly, it can't be easily seen or noticed between the parts.


The purpose of the older and now obsolete OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump with the manual hand lever (thin metal piece that hangs down under the pump body) is for when the engine runs out of fuel, after refilling the gas tank, it takes less time to manually prime the pump and refill the carburetor with gas by working the lever by hand than it would to crank the engine for a long time so the fuel pump can draw fuel from the tank and deliver it to the carburetor. This was a nice feature, especially on engines with a rope or recoil starter! It also saves wear and tear on the electric starter motor from cranking the engine for a long time, which could eventually burn up the starter or drain the battery.


FYI - Virtually of all of Kohler's single cylinder cast iron block and opposed twin cylinder engines come with a lobe on the camshaft to activate the mechanical fuel pump. The fuel pump installs with the lever positioned upwards. And if there's no provision on the side of a [single cylinder] block to mount a mechanical fuel pump, a 3/4" center hole and two 1/4" bolt holes can be drilled, and the 1/4" holes tapped for 1/4-20 UNC threads to mount a mechanical fuel pump. Use a fuel pump mounting gasket as a templet to drill the holes.


When to Use a Low Pressure 12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump -

Most low pressure 12 volt electric fuel pumps are compact, vibration-proof (has solid state dependability), self-priming, easy to install and connect the wiring. They work with gasoline-based fuels, won't flood the carburetor, draw very little amperage from the battery, and they cost less than most OEM low pressure 12 volt electric fuel pumps. These works great for garden tractors and small motorized vehicles with a single- or two-cylinder engine.

Another good thing about a low pressure 12 volt electric fuel pump verses a mechanical pump (if the mechanical pump doesn't have a primer lever, which must be primed manually) is if an engine runs out of fuel, the engine will not have to be cranked for a long time to get the fuel pumped up to the carburetor, which can be hard on an electric starter motor.

A new electric fuel pump should come with detailed and illustrated installation instructions. If there's no instructions, on a tractor or small engine equipment with battery-powered ignition, connect the RED wire from the pump to the wire that connects to the ignition coil positive (+) terminal (which is connected to the battery positive (+) post through the ignition key switch), and connect the BLACK wire from the pump to the engine sheet metal or chassis ground (which is connected directly to the battery negative (–) post). On a tractor or small engine equipment with magneto or solid state ignition, but with electric start, use an OFF/ON toggle switch connected to the battery positive (+) post to power the fuel pump. In most cases, do not use the [self-grounding magneto] ignition key switch.

Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.
Mechanical Fuel Pump Opening Block-Off/Cover Plates with 1/8" NPT Threaded Port Hole. Use with pulse hose to replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump (listed below). Each plate fits virtually all models of Kohler engines and certain older Tecumseh engines. Can be installed with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket to prevent oil leakage. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting (listed below) to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Each plate listed below replaces discontinued Kohler part # 277646 and Tecumseh part # 32955. The rectangular plate is an innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.) [Top of Page]
  • Rectangular-shape Steel Cover Plate with 1/8" NPT Threaded Hole. When appearance isn't important. Customer supplies own fitting, or use with choice of hose/pulse fittings listed below. A-1 Miller's fabricated part. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Oval shape Anodized Steel Cover Plate with 1/8" NPT Threaded Hole. When appearance matters. Customer supplies own fitting, or use with choice of hose fittings listed below. A-1 Miller's modified part. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Straight Fuel/Pulse Hose Fittings. Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump (listed below). Use plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 277483-S, X-495-1, and Tecumseh part # 28534.
  • Used and in excellent condition. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • New aftermarket hose fitting. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


45º Fuel/Pulse Hose Fitting. Use with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump (listed below). Use in close quarters to clear obstacles. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting.
  • $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


90º Fuel/Pulse Hose Fittings. Use the thread-in fittings with 1/4" I.D. fuel hose and/or with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump (listed below). Use in close quarters to clear obstacles. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Dimensions: 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed hose fitting.
  • New high quality aftermarket 90º steel hose fitting. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Used and in excellent condition 90º steel hose fitting. OEM Kohler part # 25 155 02-S. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • 90º nylon hose fitting kit w/compression ring. Fits new style/nylon body mechanical fuel pumps. OEM Kohler part # 25 294 11-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 90º steel hose fitting. Fits old style/metal body mechanical fuel pumps. OEM Kohler part # 25 155 02-S. $11.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
Pulse-Type/Vacuum-Operated Fuel Pumps. Operates off internal engine crankcase pulsating air pressure from movement of piston(s). Very durable, long lasting and universal usage. Designed for many makes and models of various small gas engines for general lawn and garden usage or for a 4,000± RPM stock competition pulling engine. Can be used as a replacement for a faulty high-dollar mechanical OEM low pressure fuel pump. NOTE: Remove rubber caps from fittings before installing fuel and vacuum hoses. IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel filter between gas tank and pump to lessen wear and damage to flapper/reed valves in pump. Click here to learn how to convert a small engine for use with this type of fuel pump.
  • Plastic Body Fuel Pump. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part # 808656, Kohler part #'s B-231390 (discontinued), 24 393 16-S, and Tecumseh part # 32959. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 24 393 16-S. $56.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Metal Body Fuel Pump. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s B-231390 (discontinued), 15 393 01-S, and Tecumseh part # 32959. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 15 393 01-S. $55.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
Mechanical Fuel Pump Opening Block-Off/Cover Plates. Use with a gravity feed fuel system or replace faulty mechanical fuel pump with a 12 volt electric fuel pump. Each plate fits virtually all models of Kohler engines and certain older Tecumseh engines. Can be installed with clear RTV silicone adhesive sealant instead of a gasket to prevent oil leakage. The rectangular plate is an ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller. Please do not accept advertised copycat products of this kind. (But I do appreciate them acknowledging my ingenuity and intelligence.)
  • Rectangular-shape Steel Fuel Pump Block-Off/Cover Plate. When appearance isn't important. A-1 Miller's fabricated part. Replaces Kohler part # 240282-S; and Tecumseh part # 31660. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Oval shape Anodized Steel Cover Plate. When appearance matters. OEM Kohler part # 240282-S; replaces Tecumseh part # 31660. $10.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
Mechanical Fuel Pump Mounting Gaskets and Neoprene Seal. Use either gasket with mechanical fuel pumps and if the rubber seal is missing for a new style pump. Fits all models of Kohler and older Tecumseh engines with a camshaft-operated mechanical fuel pump. Gaskets approximately 1/32" thick.
  • High quality aftermarket gasket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 041 10-S and Tecumseh part # 32683A. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler gasket, part # 25 041 10-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Neoprene Rubber Seal. Comes with new style fuel pump. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, L160/L161, L181, K181 and M8. The new style and durable [hard] plastic body fuel pumps resist warpage and corrosion from water contamination. NOTE: Use supplied snap ring to compress tabs on pump to install and rotate hose fittings. IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel filter between gas tank and pump to lessen wear and damage to poppet valves in pump.
  • New style high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 41 559 05-S. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New style OEM Kohler part # 41 559 05-S. $106.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if not repairable.
Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361 and K660/K662. The new style and durable [hard] plastic body fuel pumps resist warpage and corrosion from water contamination. NOTE: Use supplied snap ring to compress tabs on pump to install and rotate hose fittings. IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel filter between gas tank and pump to lessen wear and damage to poppet valves in pump.
  • Reconditioned and tested OEM Kohler old-style plastic body mechanical fuel pump. OEM Kohler part # 47 559 10-S. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Reconditioned and tested OEM Kohler old-style metal body mechanical fuel pump. OEM Kohler part # 47 559 10-S. $50.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New style high quality aftermarket plastic body mechanical fuel pump. Inlet and outlet ports are reversible by removing pump cover, rotate 180º, and reinstall. Replaces Kohler part # 47 559 10-S and 47 559 11-S. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New style plastic body mechanical fuel pump, same as below except w/left side inlet port. OEM Kohler part # 47 559 10-S. $163.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New style plastic body mechanical fuel pump, same as above except w/right side inlet port. Most commonly used. OEM Kohler part # 47 559 11-S. $216.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if not repairable.
Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. The new style and durable [hard] plastic body fuel pumps resist warpage and corrosion from water contamination. NOTE: Use supplied snap ring to compress tabs on pump to install and rotate hose fittings. IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel filter between gas tank and pump to lessen wear and damage to poppet valves in pump.
  • New style high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 559 03-S. $22.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New style OEM Kohler part # 52 559 03-S. $89.35 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if not repairable.
Mechanical Fuel Pumps. Fits Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582 opposed twin cylinder engines. The new style and durable [hard] plastic body fuel pumps resist warpage and corrosion from water contamination. NOTE: Use supplied snap ring to compress tabs on pump to install and rotate hose fittings. IMPORTANT: Install inline fuel filter between gas tank and pump to lessen wear and damage to poppet valves in pump.
  • New style high quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 48 559 05-S. $44.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New style OEM Kohler part # 48 559 05-S. $207.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Repair and test YOUR OEM Kohler mechanical fuel pump. $20.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. No charge if not repairable.
12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kits. Compact and small. Use an electric fuel pump when the gas tank is lower than the carburetor or when a mechanical fuel is insufficient. Alcohol-resistant and very durable. Upgrade to one of these electric pumps for more reliable fuel delivery. Instantly fills the carburetor with fuel as soon as pump is powered up. Ideal when equipment runs out of gas and no need to crank the engine for a long time with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated or a mechanical fuel pump to refill the carburetor to restart the engine. Saves wear and tear of the starter motor and reserves battery power. Convert from gravity feed, or replace a faulty or inefficient pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump or malfunctioning or inefficient mechanical fuel pump. For most small engines, a fuel regulator is not required with the low pressure pumps. Each is suitable for small gas engines up to 4 cylinder carbureted engines. Use on general lawn and garden equipment, go-karts, ATV's, UTV's, small motorized vehicles or competition garden pulling tractors with a stock engine or open RPM competition pulling engine. Will work with most small gas engines such as Kohler, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Wisconsin, etc., and on virtually all models of Cub Cadet, John Deere, Wheel Horse, Sears Suburban, Massey Ferguson, and just about any lawn & garden equipment with a 12 volt electrical system. If it's a Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine, the [larger] fuel hose fitting in the carburetor will need to be changed to a 1/4" fitting. IMPORTANT: Use plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof seal. If the engine has magneto or solid state electronic ignition, and no charging system, a small 12 volt battery will need to be used to power the fuel pump. The battery would need to be recharged with a 120 volt portable battery charger from time to time so the fuel pump will work at peak efficiency. Each fuel pump draws less than 2 amps. Wire Connections: The RED wire connects to the IGNITION terminal on the ignition/starter key switch or to an OFF-ON toggle switch, and the BLACK wire connects to negative (–) ground (chassis or frame). NOTE: Electric fuel pumps listed here come with a one year warranty from date of purchase. IMPORTANT: Install the inline fuel filter between gas tank and pump inlet port to prevent any dirt/debris from wearing the pumping mechanism. If dirt/debris become lodged in pump, it can be cleared-out with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle when applied in the reverse direction of fuel flow. And for long term storage of equipment, drain and flush out all fuel, leave fuel hoses disconnected and apply light oil in the pump to prevent oxidation or "sticking" of the pumping mechanism. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]
  • Universal Square Body Low Pressure 12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Produces 2.5-4.5 P.S.I. and is non-adjustable. Includes: Fuel pump, two thread-in straight 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings, 4 spring-type hose clamps, 1/4" I.D. x 12" length reinforced fuel hose, and fuel filter w/1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings. Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 559 01-S, 25 559 02-S, 41 393 45-S. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Universal Square Body Low Pressure 12 Volt Electric Fuel Pump Installation Kit. Produces 1/2-2 P.S.I. OEM Kohler part # 25 559 01-S. $261.50 each, plus shipping & handling.

Go Here for High Quality Aluminum Gas Tanks and Brackets:
https://www.gopowersports.com/gas-tank-aluminum-cylinder-10/ | https://www.gopowersports.com/lil-rascal-front-gas-tank-brackets/

[Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

How to Prepare an Electric Fuel Pump for Wintertime or Long Term Storage -

If small engine equipment is equipped with an electric fuel pump, for winter-time or long term storage, drain out all fuel, and use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out any remaining fuel in the fuel pump and fuel system. Leave the fuel hoses disconnected so the entire fuel system can "air dry". Then apply WD-40 or light weight oil, such as 3-IN-ONE, power steering fluid or equivalent, in the fuel pump to prevent oxidation of any aluminum parts and possible rusting of any steel parts, which could cause the pump to malfunction. Then store the small engine equipment in a cool, dry environment. Avoid storing the equipment in a damp and high humility environment. Click or tap here for more information of long term storage of an engine.

Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.
Professional Carburetor Rebuilding -

Rebuild and/or Repair YOUR Carter, Kohler or Walbro Carburetor. Nothing performs better than the OEM carburetor that originally came on the engine. This is a basic rebuild service with no "high performance" modifications performed whatsoever. Work includes: Complete disassembly of carburetor, thoroughly clean carburetor body and all associated parts in an ultrasonic cleaning machine, inspect all parts for wear, resurface both ends of carburetor body on a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander/grinder to remove warpage and restore flatness (to prevent a vacuum leak), install new overhaul/rebuild kit, and if needed, install new bronze throttle shaft bushing and/or new throttle shaft. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.

  • For certain types of Carter, Kohler, Walbro or various other make of carburetors not used on Kohler K-series or Magnum engines: Replace severely worn OEM throttle shaft with a new fabricated/machined steel throttle shaft and reuse OEM throttle plate and lever. $75.00 for parts and labor. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this distinctive service.
  • Idle speed and air/fuel mixture bore will be preset on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the carburetor/engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth.
  • FYI: A-1 Miller's also offer professional rebuilds of older vintage and antique/vintage carburetors virtually of any kind as long as replacement parts are available. New throttle and choke shafts can be fabricated in our shop.
  • All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support.
  • NOTE: All high performance carburetors that we modify (bore-out and rework) are guaranteed to allow the engine to rev up at its full potential. If the engine will not rev up fully, and a high-output/performance ignition coil and a medium capacity (OEM/ordinary) condenser are being used, which can result in a weak spark, then the coil needs two medium capacity condensers or one high-capacity/performance condenser to produce a stronger spark.

IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the odor of gas from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you. I also do business with customers in Canada and worldwide. - Brian Miller

FYI - Many of our customers send me their carburetor for rebuilding, but sometimes I can't find anything wrong it. So I'd call our customer and ask how their engine acted or ran. After hearing their story, I tell them it sounds like their engine either needs a professional valve job performed or it needs a professional tune-up. And lo and behold! Many of them either adjusted the valve clearances or had a professional valve job performed, or performed a professional tune-up, and said that their engine ran like new again. So remember, sometimes a carburetor problem may be the valves or the ignition system instead. Please contact A-1 Miller's for FREE professional and honest technical support if you have any concerns with how poorly your engine runs.

High Quality Aftermarket Walbro-Replicated LME Carburetor. Brand new. Fits Tecumseh engine models HH100 and HH120. The OEM Walbro LME carburetor is no longer available from Tecumseh. Replaces discontinued Tecumseh part #'s 631304A, 631304B and 632424.
  • $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

If you're not sure what model Tecumseh engine you have, go here: Craftsman to Tecumseh Model Cross Reference.

NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.

Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #13 or #16 Carburetor. Very rare nowadays. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model K90 and K91 (which are the same engine), and certain low RPM K141 engines. It has a tapered/inverted cone-shape float bowl and float, and the throttle bore measures .810" diameter and the venturi is .542" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K141, K160/K161, L160/L161, L181, K181 or M8, due to the smaller throttle bore and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine may not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a small 2-barrel carburetor versus a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain, stock carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts if required. No performance modifications are made to this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-220100, A-230246, A-230444, E-220517, F-220762, G-220517, 220451, 220574, 220745, 220777, 230501. OEM Kohler part # 46 053 03. One of these numbers should be stamped on your OEM Carter carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
  • $200.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the odor of gas from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you. I also do business with customers in Canada and worldwide. - Brian Miller
  • $300.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and amount of labor required so it will function like a new one. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #18 Carburetor. Somewhat rare. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model K141. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .550" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K90/K91, due to the bigger venturi and velocity of air that's required, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up. And when used on a Kohler engine model K160/K161, L160/L161, L181, K181, or M8, due to the smaller and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine may not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain, stock carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts if required. No performance modifications are made to this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-231966, B-231469, G-220517. OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 06, 41 053 13. One of these numbers should be stamped on your OEM Carter carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.

  • $155.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the odor of gas from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you. I also do business with customers in Canada and worldwide. - Brian Miller
  • $165.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and amount of labor required so it will function like a new one. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #20 Carburetor. Somewhat rare. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K160/K161. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .612" diameter. When used on a Kohler engine model K90/K91 or K141, due to the bigger venturi and velocity of air that's required, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up. And when used on a Kohler engine model L160/L161, L181, K181 or M8, due to the smaller and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine may not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) This is a plain, stock carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts if required. No performance modifications are made to this carburetor whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-230798, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469, C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230501, G-220517, G-230500. OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 06, 41 053 14. One of these numbers should be stamped on your OEM Carter carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.

  • $155.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the odor of gas from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you. I also do business with customers in Canada and worldwide. - Brian Miller
  • $165.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and amount of labor required so it will function like a new one. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter Model N #22 Carburetor. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K181, L181 and M8. The throttle bore measures .823" diameter and the venturi is .682" diameter. Due to the unrestrictive venturi and velocity of air that's required, when used on a K181, L181 or M8, the bigger engine will produce full power at 3,600 RPM. But due to the bigger venturi, when used on a K90/K91, K141 or K160/K161, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because it may not create the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. This is a plain, stock carburetor that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts if required. No performance modifications are made to these carburetors whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fuel hose fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal. OEM Carter part #'s A-230798, A-231741, A-234631, B-231739, C-231738, F-230350, F-230501, F-230502, G-220517. OEM Kohler part #'s 41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. One of these numbers should be stamped on your OEM Carter carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. Not all later Carter Model N carburetors with a .682" venturi have the "22" embossed in the choke end of the carburetor. Please indicate if the carburetor you need use 2 or 3 air cleaner mounting holes. This carburetor is discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.

  • $75.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to A-1 Miller's, use the USPS, FedEx or UPS with a tracking number. Package it securely so it won't get damaged and address it correctly so it won't get lost in shipping and place it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the odor of gas from escaping the package and prevent the loss of any loose parts in shipping. To prevent the odor of gas from outside the package, apply air freshener on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the USPS, FedEx or UPS will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. Also, include a note in the package with your name, complete and correct postal address, phone number (in case I have any questions), a description of what you want done, how the engine will be used and any other parts you may need. I will contact you when the carburetor (and list of parts) are ready to be sent back to you. I also do business with customers in Canada and worldwide. - Brian Miller
  • $95.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and amount of labor required so it will function like a new one. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.


High Quality Aftermarket Carter Model N-Replicated Fully Adjustable Carburetor. The throttle bore in this particular carburetor measures .811" diameter and the venturi is .588" diameter. The choke lever is positioned the same as the OEM Carter Model N carburetors. This is an alternative universal low cost carburetor that is designed to be used on Kohler engine models K181, L181 or M8. Due to the larger venturi size, this carburetor may not work correctly on the Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141 or K160/K161. Direct replacement; no modifications to linkages required. When installing the carburetor, reuse the same linkage and everything else. Transfer the 1/8" NPT fuel hose fitting (use plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal), install carburetor on engine, adjust the idle speed and air/fuel mixtures until the engine runs smooth. Irrelevant Carter or Kohler part number(s). Comes with a limited lifetime warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.

Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #26 Carburetors. The throttle bore measures 26mm/1.07" diameter and the venturi is .812" diameter. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, M10 and M12. When used on a Kohler engine model K321, M14, K341, M16 or K361, due to the smaller throttle bore and restrictive venturi, and velocity of air that's required, the bigger engine may not produce full power at 3,600 RPM. (It'll be the same as using a restrictor plate, or a small 2-barrel carburetor versus a big 4-barrel carburetor on an automotive engine.) These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing and/or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. One of these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange of your OEM carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular engine application than shown in photo to the right ->. Discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.
  • $65.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • $85.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and amount of labor required so it will function like a new one. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter #28 Carburetor. Very rare carburetor. The throttle bore measures 28mm/1.17" diameter and the venturi is .937" diameter. This particular carburetor was designed specifically for the early Kohler engine model K321 with specification suffix "A", "B" or "C" (with the smaller 1-1/8" exhaust valve) and for certain early low RPM K341 engines. When used on a Kohler engine model K241, M10, K301 or M12, due to the larger throttle bore and bigger venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because it may not create the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing and/or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. It may have the part number 236636 stamped on the flange. It has been discontinued by Carter many years ago. NOTE: Not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular engine application than shown in photo to the right ->. All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.

  • $100.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • $150.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and amount of labor required so it will function like a new one. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Carter or Kohler #30 Carburetors. The throttle bore measures 30mm/1.2" diameter and the venturi is 1.000" diameter. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine models K321 (w/1-3/8" exhaust valve), K341, M14 and M16. When used on a Kohler engine model K241, M10, K301 or M12, due to the larger throttle bore and bigger venturi, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because it may not create the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing and/or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. One of these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange of your OEM carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. And design of throttle lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular engine application than shown in photo to the right ->. Discontinued from Kohler. L All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.

  • $85.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • $100.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Kohler #30 (w/1.25" Throttle Bore) Carburetor. Rare carburetor. The throttle bore measures 32mm/1.25" diameter and the venturi is 1.062" diameter. This particular carburetor is designed specifically for Kohler engine model K361. When used on a Kohler engine model K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341 or M16, the smaller engine may hesitate to rev up because it may not create the velocity of air or air charge required to sufficiently draw/suction fuel through the main nozzle at 3,600 RPM. Completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new throttle shaft bushing and/or new throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications made whatsoever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. NOTE: Design of throttle lever, choke lever and number of air cleaner mounting holes may be different for your particular engine application than shown in photo to the right ->. Discontinued from Kohler. L Kohler carburetor part #'s 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 40, 47 053 62 or 47 053 80. One of these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange of your OEM carburetor, but not all numbers stamped on Carter carburetors are listed with Kohler. All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.

  • $175.00 each with a rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in (certain valuable parts can be reused off of it on a good carburetor body), plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • $195.00 each outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) NOTE: If it's rebuildable or repairable, please do not discard your Carter or Kohler carburetor or other OEM Kohler parts. Most discontinued Kohler parts in good, usable/rebuildable condition are hard to find nowadays, and nothing works better than the original part(s) the engine was designed for.


10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) CarburetorNEW High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable carburetors. Each is a direct replacement with the same function and appearance as OEM Carter and Kohler carburetors. The choke lever is positioned the same as the OEM Carter and Kohler carburetors. No modifications required. Before installing carburetor, transfer the 1/8" NPT fuel hose fitting (use plumber's thread sealing tape on threads of fitting to guarantee a leak-proof seal), reuse same linkage and everything else, and after carburetor is installed on engine, with engine running, adjust idle speed and low and high speed air/fuel mixture screws until engine runs smooth. NOTE: Please specify if you need a carburetor with a hole or ball on throttle lever. FYI: Some people advertise online that the aftermarket 1.07"/#26 carburetor, that's suited for Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301 or M12, can also be used on the K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361 engines. But I know for a fact and dyno tests shown that if the 1.07"/#26 carburetor is used on a K321, M14, K341, M16 or K361, which with the correct size carburetor (1.2"/#30 and 1.25"), produces 14hp, 16hp and 18hp, respectively. Only the K321 and M14 engines require the 1.17"/#28 carburetor for it to produce 14hp at 3,600 RPM. But with the 1.17"/#28 aftermarket carburetor installed on the K341, M16 and K361 engines, they will produce about 14hp and 15hp at 3,600 RPM, and make less torque, because the engine would be drawing less air through the smaller throttle bore and not build up as much compression. Aftermarket carburetors are not available with the 1.2"/#30 or 1.25" throttle bore, that's suited for the K341, M16 or K361 engines. Other sellers apparently don't know the difference between the OEM and aftermarket carburetors because these look virtually identical on the outside. Or maybe the seller figures what most people don't know, makes them more money. So buyer beware!

  • NEW High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable #26 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetors.
    • With hole in throttle lever and short choke lever. Designed for Kohler K-series and Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12 with the round metal air cleaner/filter assembly. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • With ball on throttle lever and long choke lever. Designed for Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models K241 and K301 with the oblong/egg-shape metal air cleaner/filter assembly or velocity stack and K&N air filter. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • NEW High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated, fully adjustable #30 (1.17" throttle bore) carburetors.
    • With hole in throttle lever and short choke lever. Designed for Kohler engine models K321, M14, K341 and M16 with the round metal air cleaner/filter assembly. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • With ball on throttle lever and long choke lever. Designed for Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models K321 and K341 with the oblong/egg-shape metal air cleaner/filter assembly or velocity stack and K&N air filter. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Professionally Rebuilt Genuine OEM Kohler #26 fully adjustable carburetors. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 (without anti-backfire/engine shut-off valve). These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit and other new parts installed if required. No performance modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Includes choke plate installed. Comes with a reversible downward or upward swing choke lever to match the position of the lever on your original carburetor. Simply remove the retaining screw and reposition the choke lever according to your application. Need to remove the choke shaft from the carburetor body. (This is a distinctive A-1 Miller's feature that others do not offer.) When ordering, please specify the position of the choke lever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Kohler carburetor part #'s 52 053 09, 52 053 18 or 52 053 28. One of these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange of your OEM Kohler carburetor. All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.

  • $45.00 each, with rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • $65.00 each, outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and amount of labor required so it will function like a new one. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.


High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated #26 fully adjustable carburetor. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Direct replacement. Same function and appearance as OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Comes with a reversible downward or upward swing choke lever to match the position of the lever on your original carburetor. Simply remove the retaining screw and reposition the choke lever according to your application. (This is a distinctive A-1 Miller's feature that other sellers do not offer.) When ordering, please specify the position of the choke lever. The idle speed and air/fuel mixture adjustments will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final idle and high speed air/fuel mixture adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. Each come with a lifetime warranty from date of purchase.

  • $35.00 each, with rebuildable or non-rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
  • $55.00 each, outright with no core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.


Carburetors for Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. All carburetors that A-1 Miller's repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. NOTE: Although the carburetor for the K482 and K532 engines can also be used on the K582 engine, which produces 24hp at 3,600 RPM with the correct carburetor, would produce about 21hp because it would be drawing less air through the smaller carburetor. Also, before considering replacing the carburetor, the engine may have insufficient valve-to-lifter clearances or it may need a professional valve job performed instead. So check and (re)set the valve clearances to factory specifications. If there's black sooty (carbon) residue inside the carburetor throttle bore, this means the intake valve definitely has insufficient clearance. Because sometimes misdiagnosed carburetor problems can be faulty valves.

Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler #26 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetor designed specifically for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. Cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new [snug] throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts if required. Discontinued Kohler part #'s A-277373, A-277910, C-277061, C-277329, 48 053 01, 48 053 03, 48 053 05, 48 053 07, 48 053 08, 48 053 09, 48 053 10, 48 053 12, 48 053 13, 48 053 14, 48 053 29. One of these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange of your OEM carburetor. NOTE: Please mail us photo(s) of your OEM Kohler carburetor so we can match it to one that we may have in stock. We may have to install the correct type of choke lever on ours to match yours. Because nothing works better than the original type of carburetor. (When available or in stock.)

  • $70.00 each with a rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
  • $100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and amount of labor required so it will function like a new one. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.

Professionally Rebuilt OEM Kohler #30 (1.2" throttle bore) carburetor designed specifically for Kohler engine model K582. Cleaned and professionally rebuilt with a new overhaul kit, new [snug] throttle shaft (if needed) and other new parts if required. Discontinued Kohler part #'s 48 053 06, 48 053 11, 48 053 13, 48 053 16, 48 053 18, 48 053 24, 48 053 25, 48 053 27. One of these numbers should be stamped on mounting flange of your OEM carburetor. NOTE: Please mail us photo(s) of your OEM Kohler carburetor so we can match it to one that we may have in stock. We may have to install the correct type of choke lever on ours to match yours. Because nothing works better than the original type of carburetor. (When available or in stock.)

  • $70.00 each with a rebuildable core trade-in, plus shipping & handling.
  • $100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts it will need and amount of labor required so it will function like a new one. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.

High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable #26 (1.07" throttle bore) carburetor. Designed specifically for Kohler engine models K482 and K532. NOTE: Please mail us photo(s) of your OEM Kohler carburetor so we can match it to one that we may have in stock. We may have to install the correct type of choke lever on ours to match yours. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 48 053 07-S. $65.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.

High Quality Aftermarket Kohler-replicated fully adjustable #28 (1.17" throttle bore) carburetor. Designed specifically for Kohler engine model K582. NOTE: Please mail us photo(s) of your OEM Kohler carburetor so we can match it to one that we may have in stock. We may have to install the correct type of choke lever on ours to match yours. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 48 053 06-S or 48 053 16-S. $65.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.

A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Professional Stock-Appearing, "Old School" Technology, High Performance Carburetor Modifications - Modify YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler #26 or #30 carburetor for enhanced performance on a competition garden tractor pulling engine. [Top of Page]

The carburetor is modified for maximum performance to increase airflow into the combustion chamber. Stock-appearing means Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetor (except Walbro) is modified internally to improve engine performance. The venturi is bored-out to .995", 1" or straight-through design (to match the diameter of throttle bore) or whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow for use with pump gas, E85 or methanol fuel. Please specify if your engine has stock size valves or an oversize intake valve. And we may need a copy of your association's/club's sanctioning rules regarding the legality of the carburetor so when we rework/modify it, it'll be legal for the class you plan to pull in. The idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture and high speed air/fuel adjusters will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support. FYI - After I modify/rework a Carter or Kohler carburetor for high performance use, as long as everything else are all in good condition with the engine, including the ignition timing, valve train, etc., the carburetor will, without a doubt, perform flawlessly. - Brian Miller

  • Bore-out and rework carburetor for improved performance. $85.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. Extra charge if any missing, worn beyond reuse or broken parts are required.
  • Before the venturi can be bored-out, the main jet/nozzle must be removed. If it is stuck and must be drilled out, there is an extra $50.00 charge. This includes the price of a new main jet/nozzle.
  • If the carburetor needs a bushing for the throttle shaft installed, there is an extra $10.00 charge. Or if it needs a new throttle shaft and bushing, there is an extra $40.00 charge.
  • Convert carburetor to bottom main fuel adjuster. (Only for open RPM/wide open throttle operation competition pulling engines). $17.00 extra.
  • No extra charge to convert your carburetor for use with E85 or methanol fuels with the high performance modifications.
  • NOTE: All high performance carburetors that we modify (bore-out and rework) are guaranteed to allow the engine to rev up at its full potential. If the engine will not rev up fully, and a high-output/performance ignition coil and a medium capacity (OEM/ordinary) condenser are being used, which can result in a weak spark, then the coil needs two medium capacity condensers or one high-capacity/performance condenser to produce a stronger spark.


Fully Adjustable Competition Pulling #26 and #30 Carburetors Bored-Out and Reworked for High Performance Use. The carburetors listed below will help your tractor pull strong on the track! A bored-out venturi and reworked carburetor is when the carburetor is modified for maximum performance for general yard and garden use, and/or for competition pulling. These carburetors have been modified by Brian Miller to outperform an OEM stock Carter or Kohler carburetor under heavy competition pulling load, and when adjusted correctly, may not run lean at high RPM while going down the track. Stock externally appearing will pass tech with virtually any pulling association or club. The venturi in these carburetors are bored to either .995", 1" or 1.2" straight-through throttle bore for open RPM, setup for gas, E85 or methanol fuels, whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow or whatever you desire for all-out engine performance. Please specify if engine has stock size valves or an oversize intake valve. The idle speed, idle air/fuel mixture and high speed air/fuel adjusters will be initially set on the carburetor just to get the engine running, but due to the altitude level, atmospheric/barometric pressure and air temperature where the engine will be used, final adjustments will need to be made by the customer so the engine will run smooth. All carburetors that we repair, rebuild, modify or sell are guaranteed to be free of defects and come with a limited lifetime workmanship warranty from date of purchase. Warranty includes FREE professional and honest technical support.

NOTE: All carburetors are "built to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a factory stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a .995" or 1" venturi, or a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi), if the engine is going to turn 4,000± RPM or open RPM/wide open throttle operation, and if you want the choke plate/shaft installed.

  • OEM Kohler #26 carburetor or high quality aftermarket Kohler-replicated #26 reworked carburetor with venturi bored to .995" (NQS legal), 1" or 1.07" with top main fuel adjuster when sanctioning pulling rules require this size venturi. Recommended for up to 4,000 RPM and/or with stock size valves. $100.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler #30 reworked carburetor with venturi bored to 1.2" with top main fuel adjuster. Recommended for up to 4,000 RPM and/or with stock size valves. This size carburetor not available in aftermarket.

NOTE: All high performance carburetors that we modify (bore-out and rework) are guaranteed to allow the engine to rev up at its full potential. If the engine will not rev up fully, and if a high-output/performance ignition coil and a medium capacity (OEM/ordinary) condenser are being used, which can result in a weak spark, then the coil needs two medium capacity/OEM condensers or one high-capacity/performance condenser to produce a stronger spark.

Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.

Advertisement: (Prices are subject to change without notice.)
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.
NOTE - We have the capability to fabricate and duplicate obsolete and hard to find throttle linkages and levers. If interested, please email me a photo of the part(s) that's needed (if possible) with the exact dimensions.
Carburetor-to-Block Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181, M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor. Approximately 1/64" compressed thickness. NOTE: Thoroughly clean off old gasket material to prevent a vacuum leak.
  • High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 14-1084. Replaces Kohler part # 210223-S and Tecumseh part # 31960A. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 210223-S. $3.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner Base or Intake Elbow Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits most older Tecumseh carburetors and Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181, M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 and LME carburetor. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Use with two mounting screws.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 220537 and Tecumseh part # 27272A. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner Base-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits various Kohler engine models K181 and M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor. Not available in aftermarket.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 041 04-S. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner Base or Intake Elbow Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, and various other makes and models of small engines with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Walbro WHL 36, #44 carburetor. Can be used with two or three mounting screws, depending on type of air cleaner. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Alternative gasket to the left.
  • High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 7795. Replaces Kohler part # 41 041 11-S. $1.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 041 11-S. $1.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor-to-Block (Thin) Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20 K482, K532 and K582 with Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. For general lawn and garden use. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. NOTE: Thoroughly clean off old gasket material to prevent a vacuum leak.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 271030-S. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 271030-S. $5.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor-to-Block (Thick) Heat Isolator Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341 and M16 with Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. Use for heavy yard and/or garden work, or for competition pulling engines. Has one gasket adhered to each side of heat resistant phenolic resin center. Approximately .230" compressed total thickness. NOTE: Thoroughly clean off old gasket material to prevent a vacuum leak. FYI: This particular gasket prevents engine heat from being transferred to the carburetor, resulting in cooling and better atomization of the fuel before entering the combustion chamber, improving engine performance.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 47 049 01-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 049 01-S. $18.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner Base-to-Carburetor Mounting Gaskets. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, and various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 with Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor with the round air cleaner/filter assembly. NOTE: This gasket can be used on the KT-series and Magnum opposed twin cylinder engine carburetors by making a hole at 2:00 position with a [paper] hole punch to resemble the gasket below.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 275341-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 275341-S. $4.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Cleaner Base-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 and K361, and various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16 with Kohler #26, #30 or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor with the round or oblong/egg-shape air cleaner/filter assembly.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 275341-S. $4.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 45 041 07-S. $4.95 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air Intake Elbow Adapter-to-Carburetor Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models K321, K341, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 041 06-S. $2.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
Square-shape Air Cleaner Base-to-Elbow Adapter Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler engine models CH25, CH730-740, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, K482, K532 and K582. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. Not available in aftermarket.
  • OEM Kohler part # 277093-S. $5.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
Intake Manifold-to-Cylinder Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Approximately 1/32" compressed thickness. NOTE: Thoroughly clean off all old gasket material to prevent a vacuum leak.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 52 041 09-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 52 041 09-S. $5.84 each, plus shipping & handling.
Intake Manifold-to-Block Mounting Gasket. Fits Kohler opposed twin cylinder engine models K482, K532 and K582. Not available in aftermarket. NOTE: Thoroughly clean off all old gasket material to prevent a vacuum leak.
  • OEM Kohler part # 48 052 02-S. $4.38 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor Overhaul Kits. Fits Carter and Kohler carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single and opposed twin cylinder engines, and various other makes and models of small engines. Includes: 3/8" brass fuel inlet seat w/gasket, Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve, alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber float bowl O-ring seal, alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber fuel baffle/splash shield, fiber bottom float bowl gasket and float hinge pin. NOTE: High quality aftermarket kits are equal to or surpasses the quality of the OEM Kohler overhaul kit. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling a used float bowl on the carburetor, place it on a hard, flat surface, and flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside with a small hammer. When the bowl is installed on the carburetor body with the retaining bolt tightened, this will "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring to prevent splashing fuel from seeping out around the top of the float bowl when the engine is in operation.
  • Overhaul Kit. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22 Carburetors for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181, including various other makes and models of small engines with the Carter Model N carburetor. Comes with 5/16" I.D. sealing gasket (made of fiber material or soft aluminum) for float bowl retaining bolt. Distinctive A-1 Miller's irrelevant part. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 757 01-S, 25 757 02-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Overhaul Kits. Each fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 Carburetors for Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341 and K361. Each come with 3/8" I.D. sealing gasket (made of fiber material) for float bowl retaining bolt.
    • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 25 757 01-S, 25 757 02-S. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 Carburetors. OEM Kohler part #'s 25 757 01-S, 25 757 02-S. $17.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Rebuild YOUR OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. Total cost depends on which parts will need to be replaced and/or any machining required so it will function like a new one. $65.00-$135.00± for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.


High Quality 1/4" Drive 10mm 6 Point Thin-Wall Deep Well Socket for removing and installing brass fuel inlet seat in certain aftermarket (Chinese-made) carburetor overhaul kits for Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, or Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30, and aftermarket Kohler-replicated carburetors. Can also be used for 3/8" brass fuel inlet seats. Machined thin in metal lathe by A-1 Miller's to fit into the confined space of the fuel inlet seat cavity in carburetor body. An ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this special socket. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Float Bowl-to-Carburetor Body O-Ring Seals. This particular part prevents splashing fuel inside the float bowl from leaking out caused by normal or high RPM engine vibrations. Required in all carburetors. Each fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and opposed twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Also fits Tecumseh engines with the Carter or Walbro carburetors with the large bowl, and Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine carburetors. (FYI - The early Briggs & Stratton float carburetors was designed and made by the Carter Carburetor Corporation.) Dimensions (±): 2-3/16" I.D. x 2-7/16" O.D. x .040" thickness. Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring included in overhaul/rebuild kits listed above È. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling a used float bowl on the carburetor, place it on a hard, flat surface, and flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside with a small hammer. When the bowl is installed on the carburetor body with the retaining bolt tightened, this will "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring to prevent splashing fuel from seeping out around the top of the float bowl when the engine is in operation.
  • OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 270511. Made of alcohol-resistant and durable paper-like gasket material. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • High quality aftermarket. Made of alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber. Replaces Kohler part # 200375-S. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 200375-S. Made of alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber. $5.12 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Fuel Baffle/Splash Shields. This particular part prevents splashing fuel inside the float bowl from traveling up through the atmospheric vent passageway and possibly being sucked into the throttle bore, which can momentarily cause engine misfire due to normal or high RPM engine vibrations. Fastens between bowl O-ring seal and float bowl. Required in all carburetors. Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and opposed twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. Included in overhaul/rebuild kit listed above È. IMPORTANT: Before reinstalling a used float bowl on the carburetor, place it on a hard, flat surface, and flatten the bottom of the bowl from the inside with a small hammer. When the bowl is installed on the carburetor body with the retaining bolt tightened, this will "clamp" or squeeze the fuel baffle/splash shield against the O-ring to prevent splashing fuel from seeping out around the top of the float bowl when the engine is in operation.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 041 02-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 041 02-S. $4.92 each, plus shipping & handling.
Brass Float. Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series, early Magnum single cylinder K90-K361 single- and opposed twin-cylinder flathead cast iron block engines. May also fit certain carburetors used on Onan engines. Replaces the very early obsolete tapered/inverted cone-shape brass float in the Carter Model N #13 carburetor used on the Kohler K90 and various other makes and models of small engines. Dimensions (±): 15/16" I.D. x 1-15/16" O.D. x 5/8" tall. NOTE: The float level/height must be set correctly on ALL brass floats when installed. They do not come preset. The correct way to set the float level is remove the carburetor from the engine, remove the float bowl, and with the carburetor upside-down, use a small flat blade screwdriver to bend the tab on the float slightly one way or the other to set the float parallel with the carburetor body. Make sure the float moves up and down freely, too. If it binds or sticks, carefully use a flat file to narrow the sides of the hinge for clearance. Be careful not to file into the float itself!
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 25 757 03-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Float Stabilizer Spring. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors. Minimizes float bounce due to normal competition pulling engine vibration at open RPM/wide open throttle operation, or excessive small all terrain vehicle "bouncing around" over rough and uneven terrain, which could cause momentary engine misfire and/or fuel spillage out of the atmospheric vent opening (air passageway from inside the float bowl area to outside of carburetor). Not necessary for 4,000± RPM competition pulling engines or ordinary general lawn and garden equipment.
  • Used and in excellent condition. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available)
  • New. OEM Kohler part # 237917-S. $14.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
Cylindrical Float Bowl with 5/16" Hole. Designed for all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181, including various other makes and models of small engines. Available in aluminum only. Replaces very early obsolete tapered/inverted cone-shape float bowl on the Carter Model N #13 carburetor used on the Kohler K90 and various other makes and models of small engines. Dimensions: 2-3/8" O.D. x 1-1/4" height x 5/16" bottom hole. NOTE: The float bowls listed below can be used in place of this one. The 5/16" bottom bolt/washer will seal the 3/8" hole.
  • OEM Kohler part # 200418-S. $26.30 each, plus shipping & handling.


Float Bowls with 3/8" Hole. Fits all Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, K482, K532 and K582. Also fits Briggs and Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine carburetors. NOTE: The Briggs & Stratton steel float bowl has the exact same dimensions as the Carter or Kohler aluminum float bowl. Either are interchangeable. (In fact, the early B&S 7-12hp vertical shaft flathead engine float carburetors was designed and made by the Carter Carburetor Corporation.) Dimensions of each float bowl: 2-3/8" O.D. x 1-1/4" height x 3/8" bottom hole.

  • Durable Anodized Steel Float Bowl. Will not dent easily and corrode through due to water contamination. OEM Briggs and Stratton part # 221995. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Aluminum Float Bowl. OEM Kohler part # 235448-S. $16.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor Overhaul Kits with Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1, WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1, WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh engines. May also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. All rubber-like parts made of alcohol-resistant neoprene. Includes carburetor mounting gasket. NOTE: On all Walbro WHL and WHG carburetors, the fuel inlet seat is pressed-in at the factory. If it's replaced with a new seat, fuel will likely leak around the edge of the seat and overflow the float bowl, rendering the carburetor body useless. So it'll be best to just install a new fuel inlet valve and leave the OEM seat intact. Remember - In the laws of physics, the moving part will likely to wear more than the stationary part.
  • OEM Walbro part # K1-WHG. Replaces Tecumseh part # 632445. $13.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 757 11-S. $60.35 each, plus shipping & handling.


Alcohol-Resistant Viton-tip fuel inlet float valve. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1, WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1, WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh engines. May also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. NOTE: On all Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, the fuel inlet seat is pressed-in at the factory. If it's removed and replaced with a new one, the carburetor body may be rendered useless, because it will mostly likely leak fuel. So it'll be best to just install a new fuel inlet valve and leave the seat alone. Remember - in the laws of physics, the moving part will wear more than the stationary part. Not available separately from Kohler. OEM Walbro part # 82-529-7. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Float Bowl Rubber O-Ring Seal. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors that's used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1, WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1, WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh engines. May also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. Made of alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber. Dimensions (±): 2-3/8" I.D. x 2-1/2" O.D. x .065" thickness. Square cross-section.
  • OEM Walbro part #'s 92-16-8, 92-301-8. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 041 04-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $5.74 each, plus shipping & handling.


Plastic Floats. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1, WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1, WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh engines. May also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines.
  • OEM Walbro part # 75-566-1. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 757 09-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $20.59 each, plus shipping & handling.


Float bowls. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler Magnum engine models K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits Walbro WHG-16-1, WHG-17-1, WHG-18-1, WHG-25-1, WHG-26-1, WHG-27-1, WHG-28-1, WHG-31-1, WHG-35-1, WHG-44-1, WHG-53-1 and WHG-96-1 carburetors used on larger cast iron block Tecumseh engines. May also fit Walbro carburetors used on certain Onan engines. 2-1/2" outside diameter. Each made of dent-proof, anodized, corrosion-resistant steel.
  • OEM Walbro part # 20-180-1. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 104 01-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $18.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
5/16" I.D. Float Bowl Retaining Bolt Sealing Gaskets. Each listed below fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors, smaller Briggs & Stratton, Mikuni, Tecumseh and various other makes and models of small engine carburetors. Fits Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161 and K181. Not included with the OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor overhaul/rebuild kit.
  • Fiber Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 200372-S; Briggs & Stratton part #'s 221172, 271716, 691608, 691898, and Tecumseh part #'s 27110A, 632673, 640042. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Soft Aluminum Gasket. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 222014, 397882, 690618. $1.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Fiber Gasket. OEM Kohler part # 200372-S. $2.10 each, plus shipping & handling.

3/8" I.D. Float Bowl Retaining Bolt Sealing Gaskets. Each listed below fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors, Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors, WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors. Also fits certain larger Briggs & Stratton and various other makes and models of small engine carburetors. Kits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, K482, K532 and K582, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Included with aftermarket and OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor overhaul/rebuild kits. Each washer listed below .

  • Fiber Gasket. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 200372-S, 12 041 06-S, 25 041 03-S; Walbro part # 92-300-8; Briggs & Stratton part # 271716. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Fiber Gasket. OEM Walbro part # 92-300-8. .45¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Fiber Gasket. OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 271716. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Fiber Gasket. OEM Kohler part # 200372-S. $2.45 each, plus shipping & handling.


Float Bowl Retaining Bolts. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181, including many various makes and models of various small engines. Each includes fiber sealing washer. Dimensions: 5/16-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length x 1/2" head size.

  • High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 41 100 01-S. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New Old Stock or Used and in Excellent Condition. Discontinued Kohler part # 41 100 01-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)

Float Bowl Retaining Bolts. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors, and Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors used on Kohler engine models M8, K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Also fits the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead engines. Replaces obsolete Briggs & Stratton part # 397882. Each includes fiber sealing washer.

  • 3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length x 1/2" head. OEM Walbro part # 96-340-7. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length x 1/2" head. OEM Kohler part # 12 086 05-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $2.58 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 3/8-24 UNF threads x 3/8" thread length x 9/16" head. New Old Stock or Used and in Excellent Condition. Discontinued Kohler part # 47 100 06-S. $5.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Convert the Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor to a Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster - [Top of Page]

The bottom high speed main fuel adjuster assembly has 3/8" fine threads, and is not an OEM Kohler part and is not a modification by Kohler. The conversion provides no high performance engine enhancements whatsoever, but it is an absolute must for an open RPM competition pulling engine. It's an add-on feature that replaces the OEM float bowl retaining bolt listed above only to prevent wearing of and enlarging the fuel main jet hole by the end of the OEM high speed needle air/fuel adjustment screw due to normal engine vibration at open RPM engine operation. This conversion have been proven many times to function flawlessly for a 4,000 RPM stock competition pulling engine and for an open RPM competition pulling engine! Read below how to convert a Carter or Kohler carburetor for use with the bottom adjuster.

Actually, the same bottom fuel adjuster design that's mentioned here was first used on Briggs & Stratton's 6-12.5hp vertical shaft flathead engine carburetors, which was designed and made by the Carter Carburetor Corporation, and it works excellent! The B&S bottom adjuster has 5/16" fine threads and will not fit the Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors, but will fit the Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors when these carburetors is converted for use with the bottom adjuster.

  • Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster with Nylon Spacer Kit. Fits all Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. Can also be used in the carburetor on all Briggs & Stratton opposed twin cylinder flathead engines to "fine tune" the high speed air/fuel mixture. NOTICE: Being I have no idea how long the bottom adjusters that I order from our suppliers been sitting on their shelf, the original rubber O-ring may or may not be deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted. The new bottom adjuster can be used the way it is, but if it leaks fuel, it will need a new rubber O-ring installed. Make sure the compression nut is snug against the O-ring too, to prevent a fuel leak and to prevent the adjuster valve from rotating outward on its own from normal engine vibrations. $25.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
  • New high quality alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal for bottom main fuel adjustment assembly listed above. Dimensions: 5/32" I.D. x 9/32" O.D. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.

How to Convert a Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 Carburetor for use with the Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster - This simple and easy to do design is a proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of simple, low cost foolproof conversion.

  1. Use pliers to break off the tip of the OEM high speed [long needle] main fuel top adjuster at the lower idle fuel feed hole (orifice). (It's just soft brass.) Doing this turns the high speed adjuster into just an idle fuel vacuum tube. Preferably use an adjuster with a damaged tip for this conversion. There's no need to ruin a good adjuster for this.
  2. Grind to a dull point/bevel the end of the stem/tube so fuel can flow around it smoothly at high RPM without disruption.
  3. Use a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct size, and then use 150± P.S.I. air pressure to clear out any remaining dried gas or debris to allow fuel to be drawn through the tube so the engine will idle.
  4. Replace the OEM compression spring [on the top adjuster] with a 1/4" I.D. x 1/4" length aluminum, nylon or steel spacer, or a stack of small O.D. washers measuring 1/4" I.D. x 1/4" in height. NOTE: The 1/4" height spacer/washers positions the very end of the stem/tube approximately midway in the float bowl and about 3/16" above the main jet hole so fuel can be drawn through the stem/tube for the engine to idle. If the end of the stem/tube is installed too low, it may make contact with the bottom adjuster, or if it's installed too high, the engine may not idle.
  5. Reinstall the top adjuster in the carburetor body with the spacer or washers and tighten it in place, making it fixed and non-adjustable. Making the top adjuster adjustable with the spring at this point will serve no purpose whatsoever.
  6. Reinstall the float, bowl, etc. in reverse order of removal, and install the bottom adjuster instead of the OEM float bowl retaining bolt, and tighten the bottom adjuster with a new sealing washer. IMPORTANT - Do not overtighten the bottom adjuster! This could strip out the threads in the carburetor body, which would render it totally useless.
  7. Install the carburetor on the engine, linkages, fuel hose, and start the engine.
  8. Adjust the idle air/fuel mixture screw and the high speed air/fuel mixture bottom adjustment screw until the engine idles smoothly and revs to full throttle without running lean or too rich on fuel.

FYI - Absolutely nothing needs to be done to the idle fuel passageway or the idle air/fuel mixture adjustment screw. Just leave them as-is, or use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out the idle fuel passageway if necessary. The engine should idle fine after this conversion is performed. And there's definitely no need to install a small brass tube next to the float going directly up to the idle air/fuel mixture adjustment screw. Doing this could cause the brass tube to interfere with the operation of the float at high RPM. Also, if you're wondering if the presence of the top fuel adjuster stem/tube in a bored-out "straight through" throttle bore will slow down the incoming airflow, well, the throttle plate and throttle shaft are about 30% wider than the diameter of the top adjuster stem/tube, even with the throttle shaft ground/milled narrow or made thin to allow for more airflow through the carburetor. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

Brass Main Jets/Nozzles (Emulsion Tubes). Fits all OEM Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and aftermarket carburetors (with the 1.07", 1.17", 1.2" and 1.25" throttle bore) used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361 and all Kohler opposed twin cylinder engines. Each drilled for gas, not methanol.
  • Used and in excellent condition. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • New. This part is professionally CNC machined and not available from Kohler. Irrelevant OEM Kohler part number. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)

NOTE: When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter or Kohler carburetor, in most cases, there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle. If it won't come out, then don't worry about it. All that has to be done to make sure the bottom hole (jet) and the emulsion/side holes are open and clear of debris. To check if the emulsion/side holes are open, simply spray WD-40 or carburetor cleaner (in an aerosol can) through the small hole just under the choke plate and observe if the spray exits out the main nozzle in the throttle bore and out the jet in the bottom of the carburetor. But if the screwdriver slot in the main jet/nozzle is slightly stripped and it was able to be removed, for easier reinstallation, with the main jet/nozzle gently clamped in a bench vise, use a hacksaw blade to cut a slightly deeper screwdriver slot in the main jet/nozzle. And if modifying a carburetor to bore the venturi, the main jet/nozzle must be removed. Click here to learn how to remove the main jet/nozzle.

Kohler Anti-Backfire/Engine Shut-Off Solenoid Valve Kit. This anti-backfire solenoid valve fits in the carburetor and shuts off the engine when the ignition is turned off. The solenoid is energized the entire time the ignition switch is turned on to allow incoming air in the float bowl so the engine will run. When the ignition is turned off, it blocks off the incoming air in the float bowl to create a vacuum in the float bowl to prevent fuel from entering the combustion chamber, so the engine eventually shuts down. And with no raw fuel in the hot muffler, there is no possibility of a backfire. When the solenoid fails to function, the engine will not start. This particular part is designed for Kohler engine models K181 with specification numbers 13802, 13803, 13804, 13805, 13806, 13807, 13808, 13809, 13810, 13811, 13812, 13813, 13814, 13815, 13816, 13817, 13818, 13820, 30671, 30715, 30739; M18 with specification numbers 24610, 24637, 24652; M20 with specification numbers 49547, 49564, 49605; K582 with specification numbers 36246, 36249, 36261, 36266, 36268, 36285, 36310, 36327, 36337, 36350, 36371, 36373, 36374, 36376, 36382, 36392, 24600, 24603. OEM Kohler part # 25 755 05-S. $101.45 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Being the solenoid (OEM Kohler part # 25 755 06-S) for Kohler engine models M18 with specification numbers: 24563, 24568, 24574, 24577, 24592, 24594, 24599, 24619, 24630, 24631, 24636, 24646, 24655, 24656, 24659, 24664, 24674, 24696, 49514, 49544, 49545, 49565, 49569, 49570, 49572; M20 with specification numbers: 49584, 49595, 49599, 49608, 49623, 49624, 49629; MV20 with specification numbers: 57501-57514, 57527, 57528 is no longer available, to convert these engines without use of the solenoid, remove the failed solenoid and valve, cut short 3/8" threads in the hole (remove the float bowl first and use compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out the metal cuttings afterwards), and install a short 3/8" Allen set screw in the hole. Don't thread the set screw deep into the hole, or it will block off outside atmospheric air from entering the float bowl. Without a solenoid and with the conversion, the engine will require a different ignition switch to shut off the spark. And the engine should be idled down before shutting it off to lessen the chance of a backfire out the muffler.

Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Screw w/Short Stepped End. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors with following numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: G-220517, C-231738, B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 13, 41 053 18, 41 053 20 used with Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181. This same part also fits the Carter and Kohler #28 or #30 carburetors with the 1.17", 1.2" or 1.25" throttle bore with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 45 053 08, 45 053 09, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 86, 45 053 87, 45 053 88, 45 053 89, 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63, 47 053 78 used with Kohler engine models K321, K341 and K361. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors. Short step tip. Dimensions: .200" tip length x 8-40 NS (special size threads) x .865" overall length. High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 275231-S and 200438-S. NOTE: Being this aftermarket idle mixture screw has slightly smaller diameter threads than the OEM idle mixture screw, it's recommended to use this with a snug-fitting neoprene rubber O-ring (listed below) on an OEM Carter or Kohler carburetor. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Neoprene Rubber O-Ring for Aftermarket Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Screw (above) when used on the OEM Carter or Kohler #28 or #30 carburetors. This is an add-on item; Carter and Kohler carburetors did not originally come with an O-ring on the idle mixture screw. Install this part to help the engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration without hesitation or stalling. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Screw w/Long Stepped End. Fits Carter or Kohler #26 carburetors with 1.07" throttle bore used with Kohler engine models K241, K301 and K330/K331. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47 053 80, 52 053 60. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors. Long step tip. Dimensions: .260" tip length x 8-40 NS (special size threads) x .925" overall length. Being this is an OEM part, a rubber O-ring is not required. Not available in aftermarket. Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued Kohler part # 235006-S. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
Idle Air/Fuel Mixture Adjustment Screw w/Pointed End. Fits Kohler carburetors used on Kohler KT-series engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, and models K482, K532 and K582. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 48 053 06 (K582), 52 053 09, 52 053 18, 52 053 28. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors. Long tapered tip. Dimensions: .404" tip length. x 8-40 NS (special size threads) x 1.026" overall length. Being this is an OEM part, a rubber O-ring is not required. Not available in aftermarket. Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued Kohler part # 277210-S. $7.45 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)


High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 Carburetors. NOTE: Various high speed air/fuel adjusters are designed for a particular carburetor. The part number of the carburetor to match the type of adjuster are listed below. Kohler don't give their dealers much information on this. When compared the type of adjuster to the part numbers on each carburetor, we found that some are in fact different. The tiny holes midway on the stem of the high speed adjuster allows a small amount of air to be mixed with fuel through the idle circuit so the engine won't idle too rich or too lean on fuel. And with no tiny holes present midway on the stem allows full flow of fuel through the idle circuit, which when used in a wrong carburetor, may cause the engine to idle too rich on fuel. So if an engine idles well (with the present adjuster), then the carburetor has the correct adjuster. Also, being the high speed adjusters are made of soft brass, if the pointed tip is slightly bent, it can be easily straightened with pliers and reused, and should not effect engine performance whatsoever. It's a valve that regulates the amount of fuel that goes in the engine. The tip does not need to be centered with the hole in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). Gas will still get around it. And over-tightening the needle in the main jet hole will crush the tip out of shape, making it difficult to regulate the fuel. If the tips is damaged from being overtightened, the high speed adjuster will need to be replaced.

High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 and #22 carburetors that's used on Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161,KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181. The two parts listed below Ê are identical in every way, except 200410-S is listed for Carter carburetors having the following numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: A-230798, A-231966, B-231231, B-231450, B-231469, C-231738, E-231480, E-231488, E-231489, F-230350, F-230502, G-220517, G-230500, 231287, 24588, 41 053 06, 41 053 13, 41 053 14. And 200410-S is listed for Carter carburetors having the following numbers stamped on top of carburetor body: A-231741, A-234641, C-231738, B-231739, 41 053 01, 41 053 04, 41 053 05, 41 053 06, 41 053 18, 41 053 20. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual. But if there's no numbers stamped anywhere on the carburetor body, then it is definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on their carburetors. Lower hole enlarged to help the engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration without hesitation or stalling.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part #'s 200410-S and 232635-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screws. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 Carburetors. NOTE: Various high speed air/fuel adjustment screws are designed for a particular carburetor. The part number of the carburetor to match the type of adjuster are listed below. Kohler don't give their dealers much information on this. When compared the type of adjuster to the part numbers on each carburetor, we found that some are in fact different. The tiny holes midway stem of the on the high speed adjuster allows a small amount of air to be mixed with fuel through the idle circuit so the engine won't idle too rich or too lean on fuel. And with no tiny holes midway allows full flow of fuel through the idle circuit, which when used in a wrong carburetor, may cause the engine to idle too rich on fuel. So if an engine idles well (with the present adjuster), then the carburetor has the correct adjuster. Also, being the high speed adjusters are made of soft brass, if the pointed tip is slightly bent, it can be easily straightened with pliers and reused, and should not effect engine performance whatsoever. It's a valve that regulates the amount of fuel that goes in the engine. The tip does not need to be centered with the hole in the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). Gas will still get around it. And over-tightening the needle in the main jet hole will crush the tip out of shape, making it difficult to regulate the fuel. If the tips is damaged from being overtightened, the high speed adjuster will need to be replaced. Or the damaged tip can be broken off at the lower hole(s), and the [#26, #28 or #30] carburetor can be converted for use with a bottom main fuel adjuster.

High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum flathead engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20 and certain K532 and K582 engines. 3-3/8" overall length. Has four tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine will idle correctly) and two holes on lower stem. Interchangeable with discontinued Kohler high speed air/fuel adjuster part # 52 103 01-S, which has four tiny holes midway on the stem and one hole on lower stem. Single lower hole enlarged to help the engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration without hesitation or stalling. There's no need to do this on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 47 053 07, 47 053 08, 47 053 12, 47 053 13, 47 053 14, 47 053 24, 47 053 29, 47 053 35, 47 053 40, 47 053 62, 47 053 80, 48 053 06 (K582), 52 053 01, 52 053 02, 52 053 09, 52 053 10, 52 053 11, 52 053 16, 52 053 18 and 52 053 28. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 235415-S. $19.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 235415-S. $36.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter or Kohler #28, #30 carburetors used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder engine models K321, K341 and K361. 3-3/8" overall length. Has two tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine will idle correctly) and one hole on lower stem. Lower hole enlarged to help the engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration without hesitation or stalling. There's no need to do this on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically for Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: 4174S (Carter), 45 053 08, 45 053 12, 45 053 20, 45 053 26, 45 053 68, 45 053 70, 45 053 76, 45 053 77 and 47 053 11. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual. If there's no numbers anywhere on the carburetor body, then it's definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on the flange of all their carburetors.
  • Used and in excellent condition or New Old Stock (NOS). Replaces discontinued Kohler part's # 45 103 01-S and 45 103 02-S. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


High Speed Air/Fuel Mixture Needle Adjustment Screw. Fits certain Carter #30 carburetors used on certain Kohler engine models K321, and Kohler #26, 1.07" throttle bore carburetors used on Kohler engine models K482, K532 and K582. 3-3/8" overall length. Each have no tiny holes midway on the stem (this is important so the engine will idle correctly) and one lower hole on stem. Lower hole enlarged to help the engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoothly, and idle down upon deceleration without hesitation or stalling. There's no need to do this on adjusters with two lower holes. Designed specifically for certain Carter and Kohler carburetors with following numbers stamped on mounting flange: A236636 (Carter #30), 47 053 03, 47 053 09, 47 053 15, 47 053 16, 47 053 17, 47 053 20, 47 053 30, 47 053 41, 47 053 63 and 47 053 78. IMPORTANT - Please check numbers on carburetor before ordering and go here to identify the correct part for any particular carburetor: Kohler Carburetor Reference Manual. But if there's no numbers stamped anywhere on the carburetor body, then it is definitely an aftermarket carburetor. Because Carter, Kohler and Walbro ALWAYS stamp a part number on their carburetors.
  • Used and in excellent condition. 15º pointed tip; listed for Kohler engine models K241 w/specification # 46743, K482, K532, K582 w/specification #'s 36224 and 36231. Discontinued Kohler part # 47 103 01-S. $18.60 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • Used and in excellent condition. 30º pointed tip; listed for Carter #30 carburetor A236636 used on Kohler engine models K321 and K341 installed in Cub Cadet models 147, 149 and 169; also listed for K582 engines w/specification #'s 36202-36394, except above È. Discontinued Kohler part #'s 237489-S, 48 103 01-S. $23.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)


1/32" x 1-3/8" High Speed Steel Spiral Drill Bit. Use this to enlarge the [single] lower hole (orifice) in the high speed air/fuel needle adjuster in Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetors, and Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 carburetors to create a stronger suction of fuel through the tube and idle fuel passageway to help engine start quicker (with throttle in idle position), idle smoother, and idle down upon deceleration without stalling. No need to use this on adjuster with two lower holes. IMPORTANT: Carefully and gently enlarge hole by hand with drill bit clamped in a mini micro pin vise hand drill chuck. After enlarging hole, clear out any metal cuttings/debris from inside adjuster tube with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this. $1.60 each, plus shipping & handling.


Compression Pressure Spring for High Speed Air/Fuel Adjusters (listed below Ê) used on all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 and Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors.
  • High quality aftermarket. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 200383-S. $3.78 each, plus shipping & handling.
Welch Plugs for Various Small Engine Carburetors. Concave/dish-shape. Each expands .002"-.003" larger in diameter when installed and flattened out in counterbore hole. No sealant required. By the way - on the Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors, the smaller plug just above the idle fuel adjusting needle does not need to be replaced for cleaning of the idle fuel passageway, and there is no replacement for this plug.
  • 3/8" Size (.374" Diameter) Aluminum Welch Plug. Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors, and Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and may fit other small engine carburetors. OEM Walbro part # 88-180-8. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 7/16" Size (.4374" Diameter) Aluminum Welch Plug. Fits Kohler Command single cylinder engine carburetors, Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, and may fit other carburetors. Replaces Tecumseh part # 630748. OEM Walbro part # 88-55-8. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor Mounting Screws/Bolts w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181 and M8 with Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, or Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted screwdriver to start screws in threaded holes. Size: 1/4-20 UNC x 3/4" thread length.
  • Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-140-1-S. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Carburetor Mounting Screws/Bolts w/Slotted Head and Flat Washers. Fits Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, M10, M12, M14 and M16 with Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30, or Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetor. NOTE: Use small slotted screwdriver to start screws in threaded holes. Size: 5/16-18 UNC x 1" thread length.

  • Fabricated A-1 Miller's part. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # X-770-1-S. $2.75 each, plus shipping & handling.
A worn/loose throttle shaft is the #1 cause of most engines wearing out and burning/consuming [crankcase] oil prematurely, and this is also what could cause the [high dollar] cylinder head to overheat and crack on a flathead engine. If a carburetor has a worn throttle shaft, this will create a vacuum leak through the throttle shaft and carburetor body, and the engine will idle poorly, if at all at times. With a worn throttle shaft, the engine will draw in dusty and dirty outside air (through the throttle shaft and carburetor body), which will cause increased wear to the throttle shaft and possibly carburetor body, intake valve face/seat and score the cylinder wall, and engine will eventually burn oil, blow blue/gray smoke out the exhaust, be hard to start and it will lose power. More than .010" of free-play/looseness is considered too much for throttle shaft wear. Although the throttle shaft can be moved and checked by hand, the most accurate way to check for the amount of wear is with a dial indicator. Plus, at normal governed operating speed (3,600 RPM), the extra incoming air will cause the engine to run lean on fuel (lean out the air/fuel mixture), which will overheat the combustion chamber and cause the cylinder head to warp and possibly burn-out, resulting in a blown head gasket. Plus, the piston and rings will also wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe engine wear, excessive oil burning, engine smoking and loss of power.

FYI - All Carter or Kohler and Walbro carburetors didn't come with a throttle shaft bushing installed by the factory. A new bushing (and [oiled] foam rubber seal; listed below) must be installed when the throttle shaft is worn/loose in the carburetor body, or if the throttle shaft is severely worn thin, a new bushing along with a new throttle shaft (and foam rubber seal) must be installed. The oil on the foam rubber seal traps and blocks any dust and dirt from entering past the bushing and throttle shaft. If there's a counterbore (recession in the carburetor body) where the throttle shaft is, a short, flat bronze bushing can be installed, and if the original throttle shaft isn't worn much, it can be reused. But if there's no counterbore, the carburetor body will need to be precision aligned-bored for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing, and chances are, a new throttle shaft will also need to be installed. Precise machining of the carburetor body is required for installation of the sleeve bushing. And aLL Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and the older Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors have the counterbore. Only the newer Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64, and the aftermarket carburetors don't have the counterbore. If the carburetor has the counterbore, the throttle shaft will need to be removed, the dirt and debris will need to be cleaned out from the counterbore, and then the short, flat bushing can be installed. The [oiled] foam rubber seal will need to be installed on the throttle shaft before installing in the carburetor body. But if there's no counterbore, the upper hole in the carburetor body will need to be bored out in precision alignment with the lower hole in a milling machine, and then a bronze sleeve bushing can be installed. Along with regular maintenance, proper repair of a worn throttle shaft is required to help an engine last a long time.

Furthermore, the lower hole for the throttle shaft in the carburetor body rarely wears because most of the pressure is on the upper part of the shaft. If the bottom part of the throttle shaft itself is worn, a new throttle shaft will need to be installed. To find if the lower hole is worn, remove the throttle shaft, and insert a rod that measures exactly 1/4" into the hole and try to wiggle it around. If it doesn't wiggle, then the throttle shaft is worn. But if it does wiggle, then I don't have a fix to repair the lower throttle shaft hole. You will need to acquire another carburetor body or a complete carburetor (that matches yours) in good condition. I have new throttle shafts in stock and used carburetor bodies in good condition. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

Protective Throttle Shaft Foam Rubber Seal. Made of reticulated polyurethane foam. Blocks out dust and dirt from entering between throttle shaft and carburetor body or bushing (listed below) to prevent wear to either. Before installing, apply clean motor oil on seal to trap dust and dirt. Fits certain Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22; Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30; Walbro WHL #36, #44, #52, #60, #64 carburetors, and various other makes and models of carburetors. Dimensions (±): 7/32" I.D. (will stretch over a 1/4" shaft) x 7/16" O.D. x 5/32" thick. Learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Walbro part #'s 156-18-8 or OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 691321, 691869. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling. | [Top of Page] [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]


Protective Throttle Shaft Felt Dust/Dirt Seal. Made of interconnected cloth fibers. Blocks out dust and dirt from entering between throttle shaft and carburetor body to prevent wear to throttle shaft and/or hole in carburetor body. Before installing, apply clean motor oil on seal to trap dust and dirt. Fits certain Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, and all Kohler K482, K532, K582 carburetors. Dimensions (±): 7/32" I.D. (will stretch over a 1/4" shaft) x 3/8" O.D. x 1/8" thick. Learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 270167, 271853, 692279. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. | [Top of Page] [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]


Bronze throttle shaft bushingThrottle Shaft Short/Flat Counterbore Bushing. Fits all Carter and Kohler #26, #28, #30 and adjustable main jet Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors [with a counterbore] that's used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K330/K331, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Bushing and throttle shaft will last longer with the foam seal listed above. NOTE: All Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30, and early Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors have a 1/8" depth x 7/16" diameter counterbore to accept this short, flat bushing. If there's a [worn or dry-rotted] rubber seal in the counterbore, this bushing will replace it. Apply clean motor oil on throttle shaft before installing for smoother throttle operation and less wear to shaft and/or bushing. Dimensions: 1/4" I.D. x 7/16" O.D. x 1/8" height. Learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off.

  • High quality aftermarket throttle shaft bushing. Precision-made in the USA of oil absorbent, long lasting, compressed sintered bronze. Replaces Kohler part # 25 158 02-S. $4.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler throttle shaft bushing, part # 25 158 02-S. $14.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Install new throttle shaft bushing and possibility new throttle shaft in your OEM Carter, Kohler or Walbro carburetor and rebuild/overhaul carburetor to like-new condition. Price depends on condition of carburetor. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in this repair service. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this service.

Installation Instructions for Throttle Shaft Bushing Above: On all Carter, Kohler and certain Walbro carburetors, the throttle shaft is not worn 1/8" below the lever. The bushing makes contact with this area to give the shaft a second life. All older Kohler throttle shafts are like this. (Kohler was thinking ahead with this design.) The original throttle shaft can be reused with this bushing if it isn't severely worn or damaged. Before removing the throttle plate retaining screws, and to avoid breaking off the soft OEM brass throttle (or choke) plate retaining screws, use a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either an 1/8" high speed steel end mill or a chainsaw sharpening stone to grind away the flared threaded end of the screws, then the screws can be easily removed without breaking off. But if you didn't read this information beforehand, and the screw's) broke off, they can be successfully drilled out with the throttle (or choke) shaft clamped in a machine vise fastened to the table of a milling machine, use a 3/16" center drill bit (and possibly a large magnifying glass for precision to guarantee dead center-drilling of the screw), then use a drill press with a 5/64" drill bit to finish drilling out the broken off screw. And then use a 3-48 UNC taper hand tap to clean and straighten the threads in the shaft. To install the bushing in the carburetor, clean out the counterbore, and to align the bushing perpendicular with the counterbore, slide the bushing on a 1/4" or 6mm screw or bolt, and insert the screw or bolt in the throttle shaft hole, and use small hammer or bench vise to tap- or press-in the bushing, and then reinstall the shaft. If the bushing fits somewhat loose in the counterbore, lightly tap the sides of the counterbore with a hammer to make the counterbore slightly oblong/egg-shape. And do not reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws! Because being the threads are already "stretched" from being previously installed, they could break off while being tightened or possibly loosen and dislodge later, which can damage the valves or piston. If the screws loosen or become dislodged, the engine will not idle down.

NOTE: Usually the short, flat bronze bushing will snug up a worn throttle shaft. With oil for lubrication, the bushing and shaft should last a long time. However, the newer Walbro and the aftermarket carburetors have no counterbore for the bushing, and sometimes in these carburetors, especially the Walbro, the [upper] throttle shaft hole will wear oblong. Sometimes the throttle shaft will wear, too. When the hole wears oblong, just installing a new shaft will not fix the problem. To repair a worn, oblong hole, it must be precision align-bored precisely aligned with the [unworn] lower hole, and a bronze sleeve bushing would need to be installed along with a new throttle shaft. On other makes of carburetors, if the original shaft is worn and a new throttle shaft isn't available, then a new throttle shaft would need to be machined/fabricated. The throttle lever can be reused and welded to the new machined/fabricated shaft. And if necessary, a slightly oversized throttle shaft can be installed instead of the original diameter shaft. I can do all of these things for $50.00± each for parts and labor each, plus return shipping & handling.


Throttle Shaft Sleeve Bushings. Use each bushing listed below to repair a worn throttle shaft through-hole in carburetor body for various makes and models of small engines to prevent a vacuum leak, which can cause poor idling and engine damage at higher RPMs. Bushing and throttle shaft will last longer with the foam seal listed above. INSTALLATION: The throttle shaft through-hole in carburetor body must be precision align-bored in a vise fastened to a milling machine table according to the O.D. of bushing to be installed in exact alignment with the lower or side [blind] hole so the throttle shaft will operate freely without binding. Apply clean motor oil on throttle shaft before installing for smoother throttle operation and less wear to shaft and/or bushing. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the use of these products. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

  • Thin-Wall Brass Sleeve Bushing. Use in Carter Model N or Walbro carburetors with a slightly worn throttle shaft through-hole used on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8, or Walbro carburetors for Tecumseh engines. Dimensions: .2188" (7/32") I.D. x .250" (1/4") O.D. x .600" length. Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Thicker-Wall Bronze Sleeve Bushing. Use in Carter Model N or Walbro carburetors with a severely worn throttle shaft through-hole for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, K181 and M8, or Walbro carburetors for Tecumseh engines. Dimensions: .2188" (7/32") I.D. x .3125" (5/16") O.D. x 1/2" length. Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Thin-Wall Brass Sleeve Bushing. Can be used in Kohler or Walbro carburetors with a slightly worn throttle shaft through-hole used on Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16, K361, K482, K532 or K582. Dimensions: .251" (1/4") I.D. x .281" (9/32") O.D. x 9/16" length. Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Thicker-Wall Bronze Sleeve Bushing. Can be used in Carter, Kohler or Walbro carburetors with a severely worn throttle shaft through-hole used on Kohler engine models K241, M10, K301, M12, K321, M14, K341, M16 and K361. Dimensions: .251" (1/4") I.D. x .3125" (5/16") O.D. x 3/4" length. Retrofit part; not available from Kohler or Walbro. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Precision align-bore throttle shaft through-hole and install new sleeve bushing in YOUR carburetor. $45.00 for labor and bushing + price of new throttle shaft with new screws/lock washers (if needed), plus return shipping & handling. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this kind of repair service.


Throttle and Choke Plate Replacement Retaining Screws Listed Below | To avoid breaking off the OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws, use a Dremel or equivalent small rotary grinder chucked with either a chainsaw sharpening stone or an 1/8" high speed steel or carbide end mill to grind away the flared end of the screw threads until flush with the shaft, then the screws can be easily removed without breaking off. But if the screw's) do break off, they can be successfully drilled out and the shaft can be rethreaded with the appropriate size tap for installation of new screws. And definitely do not reuse the OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws! They can break off while being tightened, or possibly loosen and dislodge later, which can bend a valve or damage the piston and cylinder head. TIP: When installing a small Phillips- or slotted-head screw to keep it from falling out of the screwdriver tip in a hard to reach place, for ordinary steel screws, temporarily magnetize the screwdriver by rubbing a magnet several times along the length of the shank, or for stainless steel screws, apply a dab of automotive grease in the head of the screw. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]

3-48 UNC x 3/16" thread length throttle and choke plate retaining screws w/split lock washers (liquid threadlocker not required). Fits Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetors installed on Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181, M8, including various other makes and models of small engine carburetors. Also fits high performance throttle shaft in Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors that's been machined thin to increase airflow for competition pulling. Specifications: Phillips head; .095" outside thread diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 P.S.I. Irrelevant Kohler part number. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.

3-48 UNC x 1/4" thread length throttle and choke plate retaining screws w/split lock washers (liquid threadlocker not required). Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors installed on Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K330/K331, K341, K361, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, K452, K532, K582, including various other makes and models of small engine carburetors. Specifications: Phillips head; .095" outside thread diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 P.S.I. Replaces discontinued Kohler (brass screw) part # 234209-S. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.

4-40 UNC x 1/4" thread length throttle and choke plate retaining screws w/split lock washers (liquid threadlocker not required). Fits Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetors installed on Kohler Magnum engine models M8, M10, M12, M14, M16, MV16, M18, MV18, M20, MV20, including various other makes and models of small engine carburetors, and aftermarket Kohler-replicated carburetors. Can be used as an oversize replacement when 3-48 threads strip out. Use 4-40 hand tap (listed below) when this happens.

  • High quality aftermarket. Specifications: Phillips head; .108" outside thread diameter; grade 18-8 stainless steel; tensile strength: 120,000 P.S.I.. Replaces Kohler part # 25 086 27-S. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 086 27-S. $3.55 each, plus shipping & handling.

Quality-Made High Speed Steel Taper Hand Taps. Taper taps allow for the tip to be inserted deeper in the hole for self-aligning, easier cutting of threads and less chance of breaking off tap in the hole. Click here to learn how to cut threads, the professional way. [Return to Previous Section, Paragraph or Website]

  • 3-48 UNC size. Use to repair damaged OEM threads in Carter or Kohler throttle and choke shafts. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 4-40 UNC size. Use to repair threads in newer OEM Walbro throttle and choke shafts, or for cutting oversize threads in Carter or Kohler throttle and choke shafts when 3-48 threads strip out. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
7/32" Diameter Throttle Shaft w/Integrated Lever and 3-48 UNC screws and lock washers. Fits Carter Model N #13, #16 or #18 carburetors and small Walbro carburetor used on Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, and various other makes and models of small engines. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body. Click here to learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. Click here to learn how to install the throttle plate correctly.
  • OEM Kohler part # 46 144 04-S. $29.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 7/32" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. brass sleeve bushing to repair worn throttle shaft hole in carburetor body. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
7/32" Diameter Throttle Shaft w/Integrated Lever and 3-48 UNC screws and lock washers. Fits Carter Model N #20 or #22 carburetors used on Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181 and K181, and various other makes and models of small engines. Also fits Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetors used on Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft, bushing and/or carburetor body. Click here to learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. Click here to learn how to install the throttle plate correctly.
  • OEM Kohler part # 41 144 18-S. $18.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 7/32" I.D. x 1/4" O.D. brass sleeve bushing to repair worn throttle shaft hole in carburetor body. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
7/32" Diameter Anodized Steel Choke Shaft w/Integrated Lever and 3-48 UNC screws and lock washers. Fits all Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20 or #22 carburetor used on Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, L160/L161, L181 and K181, and various other makes and models of small engines. Also fits Walbro WHL #36 or #44 carburetors used on Magnum engine model M8. NOTE: Apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body. Click here to learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. Click here to learn how to install the throttle plate correctly.
  • High Quality Aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 41 090 20-S. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
IMPORTANT: Click here to learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. And click here to learn how to install the throttle plate correctly.

1/4" Diameter Anodized Steel Throttle Shaft with 3/16" hole in lever, 11/16" throttle plate screw hole spacing and small hole on lever for throttle return or throttle stabilizer spring. Fits OEM Carter or Kohler #26, #28 and #30, or Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, M10, M12, M14 and M16. Includes screws and lock washers for throttle plate. Throttle plate not included (listed further below; reuse OEM throttle plate. NOTE: When replacing a worn throttle shaft in the Walbro #52 (1.07") carburetor with this particular throttle shaft, the 1.07" aftermarket throttle plate (with 11/16" screw hole spacing; listed below) must also be used. Or when replacing a worn throttle shaft in the Walbro #60 or #64 (1.2") carburetor with this particular throttle shaft, the holes in the OEM Walbro throttle plate will need to be made oblong to match the (11/16") screw hole spacing in this shaft. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 47 144 35-S (discontinued) and 47 144 36-S. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


1/4" Diameter Anodized Steel Throttle Shaft with 1/4" ball integrated with lever and 11/16" throttle plate screw hole spacing. Fits OEM Kohler #26, #28 and #30, or Walbro WHG #52, #60 and #64 carburetors used on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, K321, K341, K361, M10, M12, M14 and M16. Replaces OEM Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" #26, #28 and #30 carburetor throttle shafts. Includes screws and lock washers for throttle plate. Throttle plate not included (listed further below; reuse OEM throttle plate. NOTE: When replacing a worn throttle shaft in the Walbro #52 (1.07") carburetor with this particular throttle shaft, the 1.07" aftermarket throttle plate (with 11/16" screw hole spacing; listed below) must also be used. Or when replacing a worn throttle shaft in the Walbro #60 or #64 (1.2") carburetor with this particular throttle shaft, the holes in the OEM Walbro throttle plate can be made oblong to match the (11/16") screw hole spacing in this shaft. High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s 47 144 35-S (discontinued) and 47 144 36-S. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Throttle Shaft Conversion Kits. Convert OEM Carter #26, #28 or #30 carburetors with a broken or cracked old-style two-piece cast aluminum throttle shaft clamp/lever and idle speed screw w/spring to the new style one-piece Kohler-type throttle shaft with integrated lever and idle speed adjustment screw w/compression spring in carburetor body. The OEM Carter carburetors were used on the early Kohler engine models K241, K301, K321 and K330/K331. Reuse the OEM Carter throttle plate with either kit below.

  • Throttle Shaft Conversion Kit #1. Includes: High quality aftermarket new style anodized steel throttle shaft with 3/16" hole in lever (no integrated ball), two throttle plate retaining screws, idle speed screw and compression spring. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Throttle Shaft Conversion Kit #2. Includes: High quality aftermarket new style anodized steel throttle shaft with integrated 1/4" ball on lever, two throttle plate retaining screws, idle speed screw and compression spring. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

How to Perform the Throttle Shaft Conversion:

  1. Remove the old-style Carter throttle shaft. Click here to learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off.
  2. Cut off or grind down the throttle stop pin for the old-style throttle lever flush with the carburetor body. IMPORTANT: Do attempt to break off pin as this could also break off part of the cast aluminum carburetor body, which must be used as a throttle stop for the new style throttle lever in the wide open position.
  3. Use a dial- or digital-caliper to measure/locate and scribe on the carburetor body where to drill a 9/64" hole through the carburetor body between the throttle shaft and high speed air/fuel adjuster in alignment with the new style throttle lever tang for installation of the idle speed adjustment screw. See photo to the right ->.
  4. Use a 8-32 UNC hand tap to cut new threads through the 9/64" drilled hole.
  5. Install the supplied idle speed adjustment screw w/compression spring in the threaded hole.
  6. Install the new style throttle shaft and reinstall the original throttle plate. IMPORTANT: Click here to learn how the throttle plate is reinstalled correctly.
  7. NOTE: If the hole for the throttle shaft in the carburetor body is worn and the new throttle shaft is loose or "wobbly" in the carburetor body, then a new flat bronze bushing will need to be installed in the counterbore.
IMPORTANT: Click here to learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off. And click here to learn how to reinstall the throttle plate correctly.

Throttle Plate. Fits Carter Model N #13 and #16 carburetors with a .810" diameter throttle bore that's originally installed on Kohler K-series engine models K90/K91 and certain low RPM K141. Hard to find part. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.

  • Used and in excellent condition. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)


Throttle Plate. Fits Carter Model N #18, #20 and #22 carburetors with .823" diameter throttle bore that's originally installed on Kohler K-series engine models K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181 and Magnum M8. Hard to find part. OEM Kohler part # 25 146 05-S.

  • Used and in excellent condition. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • New. $27.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Throttle Plate. Fits Carter and Kohler #26, and aftermarket carburetors with 1.07" diameter throttle bore that's originally installed on Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, K482 and K532. To be used with OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts with 11/16" screw hole spacing (listed above).

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces discontinued Kohler part # 236668-S. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)

Throttle Plate. Fits Walbro WHG #52 carburetor with 1.07" diameter throttle bore that's originally installed on Kohler Magnum engine models M10, M12, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Fits OEM Walbro throttle shaft with 5/8" screw hole spacing.

  • New. OEM Kohler part # 25 146 02-S. $8.40 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)


Throttle Plate. Fits early Carter #28 and aftermarket carburetors with 1.17" diameter throttle bore that's originally installed on early Kohler K-series engine model K321 with the 1-1/8" exhaust valve and small intake port. Designed to be used with OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts with 11/16" screw hole spacing (listed above). Anodized steel.

  • High quality aftermarket. Obsolete Carter or Kohler part number. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)


Throttle Plate. Fits Carter and Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.2" diameter throttle bore that's originally installed on Kohler engine models K321 (later model with the 1-3/8" exhaust valve and large intake port), K341 and K582. Designed to be used with OEM Carter, Kohler or aftermarket throttle shafts with 11/16" screw hole spacing (listed above).

  • Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete Carter or Kohler part number. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)

Throttle Plate. Fits Walbro #60 and #64 carburetors with 1.2" diameter throttle bore that's originally installed on Kohler Magnum engine models M14 and M16. Designed to be used with OEM Walbro throttle shaft with 3/4" screw hole spacing. OEM Kohler part # 47 146 10-S.

  • Used and in excellent condition. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
  • New. $14.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
IMPORTANT: Click here to learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off.

Choke Plate. Fits Carter Model N #13 and #16 carburetors with the .810" throttle bore that's originally installed on Kohler engine models K90/K91. Hard to find part.

  • Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in stock.)


Choke Plate. Fits Carter Model N #18, #20 and #22 carburetors with the .823"" throttle bore that's originally installed on Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161, KV161, L160/L161, L181, K181 and M8. Somewhat hard to find part.

  • Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in stock.)


Choke Plates. Fits Carter and Kohler #26 carburetors with the 1.07" throttle bore that's originally installed on Kohler engine models K241, K301, K330/K331, KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20.

  • Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in stock.)


Choke Plate. Fits Carter and Kohler #28 carburetors with the 1.17" throttle bore that's originally installed on early Kohler engine model K321 with the 1-1/8" exhaust valve and small intake port. Hard to find part.

  • Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in stock.)


Choke Plate. Fits Carter and Kohler #30 carburetors with 1.2" and 1.25" throttle bore that's originally installed on Kohler K-series engine models K321 (later models with the 1-3/8" exhaust valve and large intake port), K341, K361, K482, K532 and K582.

  • Used and in excellent condition. Obsolete OEM Carter or Kohler part number.$10.00 each, plus shipping & handing. (When available or in stock.)
IMPORTANT: Click here to learn how to remove the Carter or Kohler OEM soft brass throttle or choke plate retaining screws without breaking them off.

Choke Shafts w/Integrated Short Levers. Fits Carter or Kohler #26, #28 or #30 carburetors used on various Kohler K-series engine models K241, K301, K321, K341 with the round air cleaner/filter assembly. Also fits certain Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetors used on various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE - The Walbro choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated or made oblong to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke shaft. And apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.

  • High Quality Aftermarket. Made of anodized steel. Includes retaining screws w/lock washers for choke plate. Replaces Kohler part # 47 090 34-S. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 090 34-S. $43.25 each, plus shipping & handling.


Choke Shafts w/Integrated Long Lever. Fits Kohler #26 or #30 carburetors used on all Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361 with the oblong/egg-shape air cleaner/filter assembly. Also fits certain Walbro WHL #52, #60 or #64 carburetors used on various Magnum engine models M10, M12, M14 and M16. NOTE - The Walbro choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated or made oblong to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke shaft. And apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.

  • High Quality Aftermarket. Made of anodized steel. Includes retaining screws w/lock washers for choke plate. Replaces Kohler part # 47 090 38-S. $25.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 47 090 38-S. $43.25 each, plus shipping & handling.


Choke Shafts w/Lever. Fits Kohler engine models KT17 (first design), KT17 Series II, KT19 (first design), KT19 Series II, KT21, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20. Each includes retaining screws w/lock washers for choke plate. NOTE - The Walbro choke plate retaining screw holes will need to be elongated or made oblong to line up with the screw holes in the aftermarket choke shaft. And apply clean motor oil on shaft before installing for smooth operation and less wear to shaft and/or carburetor body.

  • Choke Shaft w/Integrated Downward Swing Lever. OEM Kohler part # 52 090 12-S. $24.80 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Choke Shaft w/Integrated Upward Swing Lever. OEM Kohler part # 52 090 13-S. $24.80 each, plus shipping & handling.


A-1 Miller's Professional Repair Service - Reverse the lever on YOUR choke shaft for downward or upward swing to match the position of the choke lever on your original carburetor or choke cable on your garden tractor. (This is a distinctive A-1 Miller's service that others do not offer.) $15.00 labor each, plus return shipping & handling. Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options.

NOTE: The choke shaft detent ball and spring are required only for hand-operation of the choke plate to keep it in the open position on stand-alone engines without a remote cable control, such as competition garden pulling tractor, garden tiller, generator/welder, air compressor, water pump, etc. Replace if lost so the choke will stay open while the engine is running. But if the choke lever/plate is operated remotely by a cable, such as on a lawn & garden tractor, then these parts aren't needed and will serve no purpose whatsoever.

1/8" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Ball. Fits Carter or Kohler #13, #16, #18, #20, #22, #26, #28, #30 and Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors.

  • OEM Walbro part # 89-13-8. .35¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 194 02-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $1.82 each, plus shipping & handling.

1/8" Diameter x 5/16" Length Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHL #36, #44 carburetors.

  • OEM Walbro part # 98-162-7. .60¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 089 06-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $1.82 each, plus shipping & handling.

1/8" Diameter x 1/2" Length Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors.

  • Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued from Kohler many years ago. No part number available. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)

5/32" Diameter Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Ball. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.

  • OEM Walbro part # 89-29-8. .35¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 194 01-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $8.02 each, plus shipping & handling.

5/32" Diameter x 1/2" Length Choke Shaft Friction (Detent) Compression Spring. Fits Walbro WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors.

  • OEM Walbro part # 98-198-7. .60¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 089 03-S. (Same as above È, made by Walbro.) $8.02 each, plus shipping & handling.
Small Engine Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System Kits. Safe to use and works flawlessly! Can be used on most general lawn and garden tractors, competition garden pulling tractors, go-karts, small motorized vehicles, or virtually any small engine lawn and garden equipment or snow removal equipment with a choke plate in the carburetor. Primer bulb can be installed on pedestal, dashboard, instrument panel, engine control panel, flywheel shroud, etc. Requires 1/4" mounting hole for primer bulb assembly. Works with Carter or Kohler (OEM and aftermarket), Briggs & Stratton, Tecumseh, Mikuni, Zenith, or virtually any carburetor with a float. Works with pump gas, race gas, E-85 or methanol fuels. The choice of professional garden tractor pullers everywhere! With the fuel bowl atmospheric vent opening plugged (air passageway from inside the float bowl to outside of carburetor), then with one or two pushes of the primer bulb with your finger, air pressure created within the float bowl forces fuel up through the main jet and out the nozzle, creating a slight flooding condition inside the carburetor throttle bore, allowing a cold engine to start quick. With this setup installed, the choke plate and shaft is not needed and can be removed. No more binding of a cable-operated choke and/or bent choke plate, or messy and unsafe "hand choking" of the carburetor. Being the atmospheric vent opening will be plugged, the fuel baffle splash shield in the Carter or Kohler carburetor is not needed with this setup and will serve no purpose whatsoever. Kit includes: New primer bulb assembly with integrated 1/8" barbed hose fitting and serrated mounting nut, 1/8" I.D. x 3/16" O.D. x 2' length clear vinyl hose, loop-type clamp and 1/8" diameter x 1" length brass tube. Click or tap here for installation instructions. NOTE: If an engine is hard to start, even with the choke plate fully closed and tuned correctly, then it may need the valve clearances reset and/or professional valve job performed. The reason some older engines is hard to start is because the valve faces, especially the intake valve, wears slightly away against the valve seat, and this will cause the clearance between the valve stem and lifter to be lessened, which will prevent the valve(s) from fully closing to trap adequate compression in the combustion chamber [so the engine can start easier]. This remote fuel primer system will not help an engine start easier if it needs a valve job. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise the universal kit for use on various small engine equipment, lawn and garden tractors, small motorized vehicles or competition pulling tractors. [Return To Previous Paragraph or Section]
  • Fuel Primer Bulb Only. Includes serrated mounting nut. $7.00 each, plus shipping.
  • High Quality Complete Universal Fuel Primer System Kit. Replaces OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • XT Fuel Primer Kit. OEM Kohler part # 14 755 36-S. $18.05 each, plus shipping.
Vented Metal Fuel/Gas Caps. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Each gas cap below fits OEM gas tank on I-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, including 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial number 560209 and lower. Also fits larger Briggs & Stratton, Clinton, Tecumseh, Lauson, Wisconsin and various other makes and models of small engine gas tanks with a 1-3/4" inlet. Unpainted; apply coat of paint to prevent rusting.
  • 1-3/4" metal vented ordinary fuel/gas caps w/alcohol-resistant paper-like anti-splash sealing gasket.
    • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 236655-S and Cub Cadet part # KH-236655. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler part # 236655-S. $18.25 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Cub Cadet part # KH-236655. Replaces Kohler part # 236655-S. $24.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 1-3/4" metal vented safety fuel/gas cap w/alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber sealing gasket, fuel baffle/splash shield and foam rubber (reticulated polyurethane foam) to absorb and prevent fuel from spewing out of vent hole due to engine vibration. Ideal for an open RPM competition pulling tractor.
    • OEM Briggs & Stratton part #'s 69221, 297866, 297866S, 392305, 393156, 395005. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring for inside of 1-3/4" fuel/gas caps. Provides a better seal against the rim of a slightly bent or damaged filler neck on gas tank to lessen loss of fuel when tank is full. For a better seal, pry out and install under paper-like gasket material in gas cap. Fits snug in gas cap. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

FYI - If a gas cap is missing the sealing gasket/splash shield, this part can be made from durable paper-like gasket material by cutting out a piece so the outside diameter fits snug inside the cap. Be sure to make a small hole (1/32") off-center in the gasket for the atmospheric vent to draw air in the tank as fuel is depleted. And if fuel spews out of the vent hole in the cap (with the gasket/splash shield installed) with a full tank of gas due to normal engine vibration, to prevent a possible fire, place a small piece of porous foam rubber (reticulated polyurethane foam) between the gasket/splash shield and vent hole in the cap. The foam will absorb the fuel and block it from being forced out the vent hole, and it'll allow incoming outside air to pass through as fuel is depleted in the tank. (A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else online mentions doing this.)


Vented Gas Cap/Fuel Level Gauge w/Ribbing. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits I-built Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 86, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 109, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 128, 129, 147, 149, 169, 1100, including Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial number 560209 and lower. Replaces gas caps (without gauge) listed above. Fits metal and plastic gas tanks with 1-3/4" threaded inlet and 5" depth. 5-1/2" overall length. Discontinued Cub Cadet part # IH-61635-C3. $40.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (Brand new; When available or in stock.)


Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level Gauge w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits I-built Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" garden tractor models 800, 1000, 1200, 1250, 1450 and 1650 with serial number 560210 and higher. Fits plastic gas tank with 2" threaded inlet and 5" depth. 5-1/2" overall length.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109037-C2. $24.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Cub Cadet part # IH-109037-C2. $49.40 each, plus shipping & handling.


Vented Gas Caps/Fuel Level Gauge w/Projected Grips. Replace deteriorated, damaged or missing gas cap for safety. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 482, 580, 582, 582 Special, 680, 682, 782, 784, 982, 984, 986, 1204, 1210, 1211, 1282, 1604, 1606, 1710, 1711, 1712, 1806, 1810, 1811, 1812, 1872, 1912, 1914 and 2072. Fits plastic gas tank with 2" threaded inlet and 10" depth. 10-5/8" overall length.

  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Cub Cadet part # 951-0226A. $37.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Cub Cadet part # 951-0226A. $54.10 each, plus shipping & handling.
Small Size Plastic Inline Fuel Filters w/fine mesh metal screen. Replace clogged, deteriorated or damaged filter to prevent fuel flow problems. Each filter installs either direction. Dimensions of each filter: 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings x 1-3/8" maximum diameter x 1-3/4" overall length. Each replaces Kohler part # 25 050 07-S1.
  • Red; 150 micron. Each listed below suitable with a gravity feed fuel system.
    • High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 21-6000. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part # 298090S, Kohler part # 24 050 03-S and Scag part # 48057-02. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler part # 24 050 03-S. $60.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Translucent or White; 75 micron. Each listed below filters out smaller objects than filter above. Suitable with a pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump, mechanical fuel pump, 12 volt electric fuel pump, or electronic fuel injection. Install before fuel pump to lessen dirt/debris wear to poppet or reed valves in pump.
    • High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 21-1349. Replaces Briggs & Stratton part # 394358S, Kohler part # 25 050 42-S and Toro part # 55-6360. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler part # 25 050 42-S. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Medium Size Plastic Inline Fuel Filter w/pleated paper filtering material. Replace clogged and/or deteriorated filter to prevent fuel flow problems. Suitable for use with gravity feed fuel system, pulse-type/vacuum-operated fuel pump, mechanical fuel pump or a 12 volt electric fuel pump. Install before fuel pump to lessen dirt/debris wear to poppet or reed valves within pump. Dimensions: 1/4" and 5/16" barbed fittings x 1-1/2" maximum diameter x 4-3/8" overall length.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 050 22-S1, 41 050 03-S. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 050 22-S1, 41 050 03-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fuel Hose Clamps. Fits 1/4" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. reinforced fuel hose (to the right). Necessary for safety when using a fuel pump in a pressurized fuel line and to prevent a vacuum leak at the suction end.
  • Spring-Loaded Clamp. High quality aftermarket. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Spring-Loaded Clamp. OEM Kohler part # 25 237 37-S. $1.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Stainless Steel Worm Gear Clamp. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
1/4" I.D. x 1/2" O.D. Black Neoprene Rubber Fuel Hose. Reinforced with braided rayon weaving. Necessary for safety when using a fuel pump in a pressurized fuel line. Suitable for 100% gasoline, gas w/10% alcohol, E85 or methanol fuels. Maximum burst pressure: 15 P.S.I.
  • High quality aftermarket. .15¢ per inch, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 111 81-S. (1/4" I.D. x 39" length.) $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Hard Rubber Sleeve for metal fuel line and compression fittings. Fits certain early Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, K181, M8, K301, K321, K341, K482, K532, K582 and K660. Replace deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted rubber sleeve to prevent dangerous and hazardous fuel leak. Dimensions: 7/32" I.D. x .255" O.D. (Other parts shown in drawing to the right -> have been discontinued from Kohler.)
  • OEM Kohler part # 220547-S. $5.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fuel Hose Conversion/Upgrade Kit. Do away with the old-fashioned sediment bowl/fuel filter and metal fuel line. This kit replaces the fuel sediment bowl assembly, U-shape metal fuel line and fuel fittings with the hard rubber compression sleeves (above). Suitable for Kohler and virtually any small engine with gravity fuel feed and carburetor positioned lower than any part of the gas tank. This conversion/upgrade kit includes 1/4" I.D. x 12" length reinforced black fuel hose, small inline fuel filter, one new straight 1/4" barbed fuel hose fitting x 1/8" NPT male threads fitting, one new 90º 1/8" NPT male threads x 1/4" barbed fuel hose fitting, and four spring-type fuel hose clamps. The 90º fitting goes in the carburetor with the barbed end facing downward, the straight fitting fastens in the gas tank, the fuel filter goes just below the gas tank close to the straight fitting, and the rest of the fuel hose routes underneath the carburetor and connects to the 90º fitting. Use plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof seal. An innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this. $12.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.
Nylon Inline Fuel Shut-Off Valve w/alcohol-resistant neoprene seal and 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings. alcohol-resistant. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use for a leaky carburetor or long term storage of equipment. This part is required by certain garden tractor pulling associations/clubs for safety. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1036. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Heavy Duty, All Metal Inline Fuel Shut-Off Valve with 1/4" barbed fuel hose fittings. Alcohol-resistant. No filter. Lever rotates 90º OFF/ON position. Use for a leaky carburetor or long term storage of equipment. This part is required by certain garden tractor pulling associations/clubs for safety. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1166. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Heavy Duty, 90º 1/8" NPT Threads gas tank-Mounted Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Brass Filter Screen and 1/4" Barbed Fuel Hose Fitting. Threads into bottom of metal gas tank. To be used with metal gas tanks on various Kohler engine models K90/K91, K141, K160/K161, L160/L161, L181, K181, K241, K301, K341, M8, M14, M20, CH15, CH22, CH23, CH680 and ECH730. Use for a leaky carburetor or long term storage of equipment. This part is required by certain pulling associations/clubs for safety. Replaces: AMF 42879; Bolens 1703896, 1718029; Briggs & Stratton 396244, 399517, 698182; Gravely 18563; John Deere AM31850, PT8655; Kohler 220764-S; Lawn Boy 677052; Noma 42879; Scag 48056; Snapper 2-4507, 3-4212, 24507, 34212, 7024507, 7034212; Tecumseh 27689, 27803, 28571, 29683, 430137, 430209; Toro 304-71.
  • High quality aftermarket. Has alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1037. $6.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 220764-S. $27.77 each, plus shipping & handling.

Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve listed above È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted O-ring or leather packing which can cause leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.

  • .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Gas Tank Fuel Fitting Bushings (Grommets). Replace deteriorated, cracked, dry-rotted, hardened bushing/grommet, which can cause dangerous and hazardous fuel leak. Along with either fuel fitting listed further below, this part can be used to repair (replace) the integrated fuel fitting on a plastic gas tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation into hole in bottom of plastic gas tank. Fuel fittings and fuel shut-off valves that plugs into these parts listed below. In addition to these fittings, for competition pulling only, this part can also be used as a fuel return system on top of gas tank with a high pressure fuel pump when burning methanol to prevent carburetor flooding. Each below have a 23/64" I.D. hole for a 3/8" fuel fitting.
  • Fits 33/64" (1/2") hole in bottom of gas tank. (Most common size.) Designed for IH Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" garden tractors and MTD-built Cub Cadet garden tractors. Replaces AMF 42690; Ariens 07509300, 07511400; Bolens 1738433; Briggs Power Products 78299GS; Exmark 1-513645; Ferris 22151; Lawn-Boy 104047, 708331, 46-6560; GW-B1738433, 581615; MTD (Cub Cadet) 735-0149, 751-3008, 935-0149; Murray 42690; Noma 44847; Scag 48309; Simplicity 1654930; Snapper 12337, 74158, 7012337, 7074158; Tecumseh 33679; Toro 46-6560, 1-513645, E513645; Wheel Horse/Toro 104047, 104047P.
    • High quality aftermarket. Replaces MTD (Cub Cadet) part #'s 735-0149, 751-3008, 935-0149. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM MTD (Cub Cadet) part #'s 735-0149, 751-3008, 935-0149. $8.35 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Fits 35/64" (9/16") hole in bottom of gas tank. Designed for fuel tank on Kohler Magnum engines.
    • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part # 25 313 01-S. $7.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler part # 25 313 01-S. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.
90º Metal Plug-In gas tank Fitting w/o Filter Screen. Fits Cub Cadet "Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. Use with inline fuel filter. 1/2" barbed fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing/grommet (above È) in bottom of plastic gas tank. Along with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel fitting on a plastic gas tank. In addition to the grommet listed above, for competition pulling only, this part can also be used as a fuel return system on top of gas tank with a high pressure fuel pump when burning methanol to prevent carburetor flooding. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" barbed fuel hose fitting. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 (except w/o shut-off valve); Wheel Horse 04048 (except w/o shut-off valve and filter screen).
  • Our part # 751-3054. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
90º Metal Plug-In gas tank Shut-Off Valve w/o Filter Screen. Fits Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. Use with inline fuel filter. 1/2" barbed fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above È) in bottom of plastic gas tank. Along with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel fitting on a plastic gas tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" barbed fuel hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or long term storage of equipment. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2 and Kohler part # 25 462 01-S (except w/o filter screen); Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/o filter screen).
  • Our part # 120-253. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Alcohol resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve above È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted O-ring which cause leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.

  • .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
90º Metal Plug-In gas tank Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Filter Screen. Fits Briggs & Stratton, Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum engines. 1/2" barbed fitting fastens in neoprene rubber bushing (above È) in bottom of plastic gas tank. Along with the grommet above, this part can be used to repair (replace) the fuel fitting on a plastic gas tank. Use oil or grease for easy installation. 1/4" barbed fuel hose fitting. Use for a leaky carburetor or long term storage of equipment. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/filter screen).
  • High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 24-1132. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Kohler part # 25 462 01-S. $20.15 each, plus shipping & handling.

Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve above È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted O-ring, which can cause dangerous and hazardous leaking fuel. Dimensions: 3/16" I.D. x 5/16" O.D.

  • .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
High Quality 90º Plastic Plug-In gas tank Shut-Off Valve w/Fine Mesh Filter Screen and Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Grommet Kit. Fits Briggs & Stratton, Cub Cadet AQS "Quiet Line" models and Kohler Magnum engine gas tanks. Neoprene rubber grommet plugs into bottom of plastic gas tank, and fuel fitting fastens in the grommet. These parts can also be used to repair a damaged threaded fuel outlet hole on the bottom of a plastic gas tank by drilling out threads with a 9/16" drill bit, then install grommet and fitting. Use oil or grease for easy insertion of each part. 1/4" and 5/16" stepped barbed fuel hose fitting. Replaces Cub Cadet part # IH-109042-C2; Wheel Horse 104048 (except w/filter screen).
  • High quality aftermarket. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Briggs & Stratton part # 192980GS. $16.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
1/8" NPT x 1/8" NPT x 3/4" length [close] steel pipe connector. Use to fasten fuel shut-off /filter/sediment bowl assembly (listed below Ê) to gas tank. Use plumber's thread sealing tape to guarantee a leak-proof seal.
  • High quality aftermarket. $1.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 25 136 23-S. $1.30 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fuel Shut-Off/Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly. Allows for fuel to be filtered and any heavy dirt or debris, or water content in the fuel to be settled in the glass bowl. 100% cleanable. Fits Cub Cadet garden tractor models 70, 71, 72, 73, 100, 102, 104, 105, 106, 107, 122, 123, 124, 125, 126, 127, 147, and replacement for various other makes and models of older lawn and garden small engines. Threads into bottom of gas tank. Use for a leaky carburetor or long term storage of equipment. This part is required by certain pulling associations/clubs for safety. Dimensions - overall height: 3"; maximum width (not including shut-off valve): 1-3/4"; thread fittings: inlet (top) and outlet (side) are both 1/8" NPT. Use plumber's thread sealing tape on fittings to guarantee a leak-proof seal. Use fuel hose conversion/upgrade kit (above È) instead if you wish. Complete assembly discontinued from Kohler. Replaces Kohler A-210101, 25 755 22-S; Briggs & Stratton 293964, 295913, 295977, 296005, 393169, 690612; Clinton 293-32-500, 293-32-5; Gravely 010313; John Deere PT4337; Tecumseh 24449, 24459, 32164, 32439, 32984, 32984A, 34279, 34279A, 34279B; Wisconsin LP43. High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 21-1009. $11.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Alcohol-resistant neoprene rubber O-ring seal for shut-off valve shaft in fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly listed above È. Replace deteriorated, cracked and dry-rotted O-ring or leather packing, which can cause dangerous and hazardous leaking fuel. Dimensions: 1/8" I.D. x 1/4" O.D.
  • High quality aftermarket. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Replacement glass bowl for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly listed above È. Dimensions: 1-1/2" maximum width x 1-1/8" height. Replaces: Briggs & Stratton # 298683; John Deere # PT4271.
  • High quality aftermarket. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 210467-S. $17.15 each, plus shipping & handling.
Gasket (Alcohol-Resistant Neoprene Rubber Seal) for fuel shut-off/filter/sediment bowl assembly listed above È. Dimensions: 1-1/4" I.D. x 1-1/2" O.D. x .060" thickness.
  • High quality aftermarket. A-1 Miller's part # 14-1097. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part # 210468-S. $5.45 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fine Mesh Brass Filter Screen for Fuel Sediment Bowl Assembly listed above È. 1-1/4" O.D.
  • OEM Kohler part # 210479-S. $4.90 each, plus shipping & handling.

Wing nuts, Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters -
Click here to contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises to place an order, send your parts for repairing, and/or for FREE professional and honest technical customer service assistance and support and payment options. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you need a part or parts, or service(s) performed that's not listed or mentioned in this website.
Each wingnut listed below recommended for side-mounted air cleaner covers or battery hold-down studs. Do not use on top-mounted air cleaner covers due to rain water seeping into intake or when washing off engine. 1/4-20 UNC threads. Each replaces Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S.
  • Plain Heavy Gauge Stamped Steel Wingnut. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Bright Cadmium-Plated Aluminum Wingnut with Self-Locking Nylon Insert. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.


Heavy Gauge Stamped Steel Wingnuts with Adhered Rubber Seal. Recommended for top-mounted air cleaner covers to prevent rain water from seeping into intake or when washing off engine. Also, rubber seal prevents wingnut from loosening. 1/4-20 UNC threads.
  • High quality aftermarket. Replaces Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler part #'s X-276-7 and 25 100 15-S. $3.16 each, plus shipping & handling.
Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters. Fits certain Kohler K-series engine models K91, K141, K161 and K181. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 230840-S; Cub Cadet 385163R2; Clinton 002-0233-00; Gravely 20299; John Deere AM31034; Massey 1035-991-M1; Tecumseh 30804. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 234870-S; John Deere AM31034; Massey Ferguson 1035-991. Air filter element dimensions (±): 4-3/8" O.D. x 3" I.D. x 1-1/2" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $8.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/Pre-Filter. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $22.40 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/Pre-Filter. $7.55 each, plus shipping & handling..

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filters and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters. Fits certain Kohler K-series engine model K181. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 231847-S; Cub Cadet 548436R1; Gravely 15373; John Deere AM30800; Tecumseh 31925; Onan 140-1188, 140-188; Rol Air 431. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 234869-S (K-series), 41 083 04-S (Magnum). Air filter element dimensions (±): 4-3/8" O.D. x 3" I.D. x 2-5/16" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $12.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $7.55 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters. Fits various Kohler engine models K141, K161, K181, M8, K241, M10, K301, M12 and K321, M14 with the short round metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 235116-S; Cub Cadet 385168R2. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 237421-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 1-7/8" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $10.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.20 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters. Fits certain Kohler and Magnum engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, CH11-15, KT17 (first design), KT19 (first design), and M18-20 engines with the AQS "Quiet Line" oblong/egg-shape metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" series engines in Cub Cadet models 680, 1000, 1050, 1200, 1204, 1211, 1250, 1282, 1450 and 1650. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 01-S; Cub Cadet 117210-C1, 759-3547, 959-3547; Gravely 032494, John Deere M83646, Lesco 012596. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 52 083 01-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 1-3/4" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters. Fits Kohler engine models K341, CH18-25, CV18-22, KT17 Series II, KT19 Series II and M18-20; for 17 thru 22hp engines with the AQS "Quiet Line" oblong/egg-shape metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Fits Kohler AQS "Quiet Line" series engines. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 47 083 03-S; John Deere M47494 (fits JD models 200, 210, 212, 214, 216, 300, 312, 314, 316, 400); Woods 71803. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 41 083 04-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 2-7/16" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $9.65 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $6.65 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters. Fits Kohler Command CH25, CV18, CV20 and CV22. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 24 083 09-S; John Deere GY20576. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 24 083 02-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 7" O.D. x 5-1/2" I.D. x 3" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $11.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $20.05 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $4.55 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters. Fits certain Kohler engine models M8, K321, M14, K341, M16, KT17 Series II, MV16, M18, MV18, M20 and MV20 with the tall round metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Can also be used on a competition garden pulling tractors, mini rod pulling vehicles, hot rods, etc., with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant filter. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 45 083 02-S; Cub Cadet 759-3359. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 45 083 01-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-11/16" I.D. x 3" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $9.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $17.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $3.75 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

Pleated Air Filter Elements and Reticulated Foam Wraps/Pre-Filters. Fits various Kohler engine models K241, K301, K341, K482, K532 and K582 with the tall round-shape metal air cleaner/filter assembly. Can also be used on mini rod pulling vehicles, hot rods, etc. with an automotive engine. Non-restricting flame retardant filtering material. Performance engineered for increased breathing. Air filter: Kohler 277138-S. Foam Wrap/Pre-Filter: Kohler 277593-S. Air filter element dimensions (±): 6" O.D. x 4-3/4" I.D. x 4" overall height.
  • High quality aftermarket air filter. $12.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • High quality aftermarket foam wrap/pre-filter. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • OEM Kohler air filter. $20.70 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • OEM Kohler foam wrap/pre-filter. $16.10 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: To clean the foam wrap/pre-filter, use brake parts cleaner, electrical/electronic contact cleaner, cleaning solvent or paint thinner (these leave behind no oily residue) and 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle, allow to thoroughly dry, but do not add oil in an attempt to trap the dust and dirt. Oil is not recommended because some of the oil could be drawn into the paper element while the engine is running, partially clogging it.

1-7/8" Short Round OEM Kohler Air Cleaner Assembly. Can be used to replace missing or damaged air cleaner assembly on Kohler engine models K241, K301 or K321, or can be used on the AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321 to allow for more air to enter the engine to produce more power. Complete assembly includes: new mounting gasket, pleated paper air filter element, foam wrap/pre-filter, mounting base, cover and wing nut. Used and in excellent condition. Discontinued Kohler part # A-235100-S. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.) 3" Tall Round OEM Kohler Air Cleaner Assembly. Can be used to replace the shorter air cleaner assembly with the 1-7/8" tall air filter element on Kohler engine models K241, K301 or K321, or can be used on the AQS (Quiet Line) engine models K241, K301, K321, K341, K361, M10, M12, M14 or M16 to allow for more air to enter the engine to produce more power. This taller air filter element will also last 60% longer under dusty conditions than the shorter air filter element. Complete assembly includes: new mounting gasket, pleated paper air filter element, foam wrap/pre-filter, mounting base, cover and wing nut. Used and in excellent condition. $80.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available or in stock.)
NOTE: Air filters and foam wraps/pre-filters are available for various other makes and models of small engines. If you need something that's not listed in this website, please contact A-1 Miller's with your engine model and specification numbers and I'll see if we can get it for you at a reasonable price. Please contact A-1 Miller's if you're interested in any of the listed above È parts or items.

FYI - About the air cleaner assembly on the Kohler K90/K91 engine with the Carter Model N #13 or #16 carburetor shown above, being the OEM Kohler air cleaner assembly and individual components are no longer available, and used OEM Kohler air cleaner assemblies or components in good condition are extremely hard to find nowadays and/or is cost prohibitive, the lower priced and readily available OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly shown on the Kohler K91 engine above will fit this engine with one modification that needs to be made. The center of the [plastic] mounting adapter will need to be bored-out/enlarged to match the diameter of the inlet opening of the carburetor to allow the engine to draw plenty of air. This air cleaner assembly includes a pleated paper air filter element (part # 35066), plastic twist-on cover (part # 35065), plastic mounting adapter (part # 35797), and mounting gasket (part # 27272A). Two 8-32 UNC screws with two small spacers and two flat washers w/lock washers and gasket are also needed to securely fasten the adapter to the carburetor. And the OEM Tecumseh air cleaner assembly shown to the right -> (part # 730164), which includes a pleated paper air filter element, metal cover, and metal mounting plate, will also fit this engine with no modifications whatsoever. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else online mentions doing this. The OEM Kohler air cleaner assemblies for Kohler engine models K141, K160/K161 and K181 will also fit the K90/K91 engine carburetor.

Never Over-Tighten the Mounting Bolts or Use Multiple Gaskets When Fastening the Carburetor to the Engine! (Updated 11/26/16)

When installing the carburetor to an engine, the use of two or more gaskets and then torquing the mounting bolts to specifications, or just over-tightening the bolts will severely warp the mounting flange on a carburetor, causing it to bend, which will create a vacuum leak, or worse yet, being cast aluminum don't bend or flex too easily, the flange could break. So remember, before installing any carburetor, first resurface the mounting flange on a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove warpage and restore flatness (be sure to use eye protection!), and for general lawn and garden use, install just one thin (.030" thickness) gasket or one (5/32" thickness) heat isolator gasket. And be sure to use the "two-bolt torque" sequence! To do this, lightly tighten the first bolt, then lightly tighten the second bolt, and tighten the first bolt securely, and then tighten the second bolt securely.

If a Carter or Kohler or Walbro carburetor body is broken and/or damaged beyond repair, the carburetor body is 100% scrap metal. (If the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out, read below Ê.) But the parts on the carburetor body are considered valuable and can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition (if some of the parts are in fact reusable). Parts such as: throttle and choke shafts and plates, choke friction (detent) ball and spring, idle speed adjusting screw and spring, idle fuel mixture screw and spring, high speed air/fuel needle adjuster and spring, main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube), fuel inlet valve and seat (if not worn and leaks fuel), float, float pin, float bowl, neoprene rubber O-ring seal, fuel baffle/splash shield, bowl retaining screw, and fuel hose fitting. The OEM (US) manufacturers are phasing out many parts for flathead engines due to EPA smog emissions. But some parts may still be available in aftermarket.

How to Repair Stripped-Out Float Bowl Retaining Bolt Threads in a Carter or Kohler or Walbro Carburetor - A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else mentions these type of repairs.

But if the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter Model N #13, #16, #18, #20, #22 carburetor, an 8mm fine thread (M8 x 1.25 pitch) metric bolt can be used. But if the metric threads become stripped-out, then a 3/8-24 UNF bowl retaining bolt (for the Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30 or Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 carburetors) can be used. For the 8mm metric bolt, an 8mm x 1.25 bottom hand tap will need to be used. But for a 3/8-24 bolt, the stripped-out hole will need to be enlarged with a 21/64" drill bit (be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle), and new threads will need to be cut perpendicular to the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the bigger bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube) and entire carburetor! A 3/8" I.D. fiber washer will need to be used with the 3/8" bolt, and the hole in the float bowl will need to be drilled out to 3/8" to match the bolt in the carburetor, or use a float bowl with a 3/8" hole. And do not over-tighten the metric bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads. If the metric threads strip out, the carburetor body is scrap metal.

If the threads for the float bowl retaining bolt are stripped-out in a Carter or Kohler #26, #28, #30, Walbro WHL #36, #44 and WHG #52, #60, #64 or virtually any other carburetor that use a 3/8"-24 UNF float bowl retaining bolt, a 10mm fine thread (M10 x 1.25 pitch) x 3/8" thread length bolt can be used. If a 3/8" length metric bolt can't be found, a longer bolt that's made of mild steel can be machined down (shortened) in a metal lathe. IMPORTANT: If you don't feel comfortable using a metal lathe, please consult a professional and experienced machinist with a lathe. Being the stripped-out hole is already large enough for the M10 x 1.25 threads to be cut, so it won't need to be drilled out. But if it does need drilling out (enlarging), use an 8.8 mm or 11/32" drill bit (be careful not to drill into the main jet; there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle), then new threads will need to be cut perpendicular to the carburetor body with a M10 x 1.25 bottom hand tap. A bottom tap cuts the threads deeper with very little taper at the end. Do not complete the tapping process with just a taper or plug tap because the threads may not go deep enough for the metric bolt. However, the threads can be started with a taper or plug tap, but will need to be finished with the bottom tap. Then use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to thoroughly clear out the metal drilling/cuttings from the main jet/nozzle and entire carburetor! Also, the holes in the fiber washer and in the float bowl for the retaining bolt will need to be enlarged to 13/32" to match the bolt in the carburetor. And do not over-tighten the metric bolt to prevent from stripping the new threads. If the metric threads strip out, the carburetor body is scrap metal. But save everything off of it because they can be used on another carburetor body that's in good condition.

On a used (and supposedly clean) carburetor, if the float bowl retaining bolt will not effortlessly tighten against the float bowl to secure it in place, DO NOT FORCE THE BOLT TO TIGHTEN! Doing this may cause the thin-wall metal to split, possibly rendering the carburetor useless. The resistance in threading the bolt in the hole is caused by debris "gumming up" the threads in the carburetor body (or in the threads of the bolt). Instead, clean the threads in the carburetor body with a 3/8-24 UNF BOTTOM hand tap, then use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out the debris. With a bottom tap, there's no need to remove the main jet/nozzle (emulsion tube). But if the protruding part where the float bowl bolt threads into is previously cracked or does split, a spring-loaded 1/2" fuel hose clamp can be installed over the protruding part with the opening in the clamp opposite the crack. This will reinforce the aluminum, squeeze the tube back to its original size and prevent the crack from spreading when the bolt is tightened. After the clamp is installed, grind the protruding tangs flush with the clamp so they will not make contact with and interfere with the operation of the float. The clamp will then become a permanent part of the carburetor. And if any part of the clamp blocks off the fuel feed holes, a new 3/32" fuel feed hole will need to be drilled through the opening in the clamp so fuel from the float bowl can reach the main jet/nozzle. This size hole should be big enough to allow plenty of fuel to enter through the main jet. A proven, ingenious and innovative concept by Brian Miller, because nobody else advertise this type of repair.


How to Repair the (3hp) Vacu-Jet and (3.5 or 4hp) Pulsa-Jet Automatic Choke Carburetors on a Briggs & Stratton Vertical Shaft Flathead Engine - [Top of Page]

The first design Vacu-Jet carburetor have a manual choke and no diaphragm. The carburetor body is fastened to the gas tank with a single gasket. The second design Vacu-Jet carburetor have a manual choke and a neoprene diaphragm with a bellow for easier operation of the choke. The third design Vacu-Jet carburetor have an automatic choke and a diaphragm. The diaphragm acts like a gasket between the carburetor body and gas tank. And the Pulsa-Jet carburetor have a diaphragm and built-in fuel pump to deliver fuel to the combustion chamber. The Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors operates off of intake vacuum to deliver fuel to the combustion chamber. Both of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors have a diaphragm and automatic choke. If either of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors run rich on fuel, and if the choke will not open after starting the engine, what has happened is where the carburetor is fastened to the gas tank, these two "mating surfaces" have become warped. This is caused by over-tightening of the air filter housing screw. To fix this...

  1. Remove the carburetor/gas tank assembly from the engine.
  2. Remove the choke rod cover from the carburetor and the carburetor from the gas tank.
  3. Completely disassemble the carburetor, except for the throttle shaft and choke plate. Gently remove the fuel pickup tubes with a 3/8" and 9/16" 6-point socket. Be careful not to twist them off in the carburetor!
  4. Use a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct size to clear out the dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the idle and main nozzle holes. IMPORTANT: When cleaning the holes, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not to enlarge either hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot be undone!
  5. There is no need to use Briggs & Stratton's roll pin and Teflon washer repair kit for a warped carburetor and gas tank! Instead, resurface the carburetor's diaphragm surface on a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) If the carburetor is warped, the sander/grinder will make contact where the screw holes are, but not the area between the screw holes.
  6. Again, there is no need to use Briggs & Stratton's roll pin and Teflon washer repair kit for a warped carburetor and gas tank! Instead, with the gas tank lightly clamped in a large bench vise, resurface the diaphragm surface with a large, wide, flat file to remove warpage and restore flatness. Use caution! Do not "rock the file" when resurfacing the mating surface of the tank! Use diagonal and swirling motions of the file so the diaphragm surface will be more or less even across the gas tank, or very little will be gained.'
  7. NOTE: Don't believe all brain-washed, factory-trained technicians. Because sometimes one must improvise to make something work. And regardless of how the service/repair manual reads, using a large, flat file to make the warped surface on a carburetor and/or gas tank flat again will not hurt anything if a skillful person does it correctly. Briggs & Stratton wants to make more money by selling unsuspecting customers new parts. That's why they write their manuals the way they do. Remember the old saying: "A fool and their money are soon parted." Briggs & Stratton probably laugh all the way to the bank after making every sale, too.
  8. After resurfacing, use a hacksaw blade to recut (or deepen) the shallow groove from the choke bellow well to the vacuum port. Doing this will allow the choke plate to open immediately when the engine starts. Failure to do this will allow the choke plate to open very slowly or not open at all, which will cause the engine to flood out and die.
  9. Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out the metal filings and any dirt or debris from the air and fuel passageways in the carburetor, screens on the fuel pickup tubes, and entire gas tank.
  10. Reinstall the fuel pickup tubes in the carburetor with the 3/8" and 9/16" 6-point socket. Be careful not to twist them off in the carburetor!
  11. To reinstall the carburetor on the gas tank, hold the carburetor upside-down, place the fuel pump spring and protective cup in its counterbore, and the diaphragm on the carburetor (a new diaphragm should be installed), and place the tank on the carburetor. Doing this retains the diaphragm and fuel pump spring/protector in place. Make sure the fuel pump flapper valves are in place, too. Then while holding the carburetor tight against the tank, flip both the carburetor and gas tank over and the screws can be installed.
  12. Insert the choke rod in the choke shaft and flip the choke plate over of normal operation. This preloads the bellow in the diaphragm, making it flex easier and allows the choke plate open easier when the engine starts.
  13. If it's a Pulsa-Jet carburetor, invert the carburetor (turn upside down) and place the fuel pump spring in first with the protective cap on the spring. Place the spring and cap in the carburetor recess, and not in the gas tank recess. With the carburetor still upside down, install the diaphragm on the carburetor, place the tank on the carburetor, then flip them over to loosely install the mounting screws.
  14. Connect the choke rod to the choke lever, and flip the choke plate over in the reverse rotation with the lever facing downward. Doing this places pressure on the bellow of the diaphragm so the choke plate can open more freely without binding when the engine starts.
  15. Tighten the carburetor mounting screws, reinstall the choke rod cover with a new gasket and that's it!


How to Repair the Pulsa-Jet Carburetor on a 5hp Briggs & Stratton Vertical or Horizontal Shaft Flathead Engine - [Top of Page]

If a 5hp Briggs & Stratton engine has excellent spark and adequate compression, but doesn't run right, then the problem is obviously in the carburetor. To fix the problem...

  1. Remove the carburetor from the engine and gas tank, completely disassemble, and clean the carburetor body and metal parts with an ultrasonic cleaning machine. Personally, I use automotive windshield washer fluid and a small amount of laundry detergent in my ultrasonic cleaner and it cleans carburetor and other small parts very well. Although Berryman® Chem-Dip® Carburetor and Parts Cleaner can also be used to dissolve or loosen any dried gas deposits, crud and debris. And use brake cleaner, parts cleaner or paint thinner to finish cleaning off the remaining grime, then blow-dry the parts and clear the debris from the carburetor body and fuel passageways with 150± P.S.I. compressed air and an air blow gun nozzle.
  2. Use a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct size to clear out the dried gas and/or dirt/debris from the idle and main nozzle holes. IMPORTANT: When cleaning the holes, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not to enlarge either hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot be undone!
  3. Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear the debris from the nozzle holes, entire carburetor and gas tank.
  4. Clean the screens on the pickup tubes.
  5. When the carburetor-to-block mounting screws are tightened for the first time, this will cause the carburetor mounting flange to warp, which allows for a vacuum leak. To fix this, resurface the carburetor flange on a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!) If the flange is warped, the sander will make contact where the bolt holes are, but not the area between the bolt holes.
  6. Again, when the fuel pump cover mounting screws are tightened for the first time, this will cause the cover to warp, which creates a vacuum leak, and the pump will not produce full flow and pressure to the reservoir bowl. To fix this, resurface the cover with a wide, flat belt- or disc-sander/grinder or on the side of an abrasive metal cutting wheel on a electric chop saw (the kind that automotive muffler shops use) to remove warpage and restore flatness. (Be sure to use eye protection!)
  7. Install a new fuel pump diaphragm, carburetor to tank gasket and carburetor to block gasket, set the fuel mixture adjustment screw about 1-1/2 turns out, and make the final adjustment after the engine runs.
  8. If the throttle shaft needs to be removed for whatever reason, first pull the sheet metal spiral from the throttle bore with large pliers or long/needle-nose Vise-Grips locking pliers. Then access to the throttle plate retaining screw can be gained with a long slender screwdriver. Repair as needed.
  9. Your engine should run like new afterwards!


Whenever I perform a complete tune-up, on an older Briggs & Stratton engine, I usually perform a professional valve job, too. I always include cleaning and lubricating the ratchet starter clutch and recoil starter spring. I completely disassemble the starter clutch, use a flat blade screwdriver to rotate a clean shop towel through the center of the square part to remove any dirt and debris, and if necessary, I use fine emery cloth to remove any scale from the stub shaft on the crankshaft. Then I lightly lubricate the catch balls, the stub shaft and felt filter with lightweight oil, such as 3-IN-ONE oil or automotive power steering fluid (which is 10 weight hydraulic oil). This have always worked very well and provided superior lubrication for many years to prevent the clutch from squealing on the crankshaft, which a lot of times scared the crap out of my customers. (Some customers told me their lawn mower is possessed because of the squealing.)

If the starter clutch still squeals after a short time of running the engine at full governed speed, remove the starter clutch, an lightly run a fine tooth file around the stub shaft and then use fine emery cloth to polish the shaft. And then again, rotate the clean shop towel inside the square hub to ensure that it's absolutely clean. May need to run a 1/2" drill bit inside the square hub to remove any burrs. Now place the square hub on the shaft and rotate it by hand to check if that's any friction or binding. If it rotates freely, lightly oil the shaft and inside the square hub. Don't be too generous with the oil though, because some of it could run down between the tapers and cause the flywheel key to shear.

How I Install a New Nylon Rope/String in an Older Briggs & Stratton Recoil Starter with the Ratchet Type Clutch - (Added 2/16/22) [Top of Page]

I fabricated a recoil spring wind-up tool from the square hub/ratchet out of an old Briggs starter clutch with broken off ears. I welded a T-shape handle to the ratchet and use it to easily and effortlessly wind up the spring by hand. Then I clamp a small needle-nose Vise Grip pliers on the end of the spring while I'm winding it inside the housing to guarantee the end will not go inside the housing. (If this happens, I'll have to start all over.) And with the recoil housing of the flywheel shroud lightly clamped in a bench vise, once the spring is wind up and the hole in the starter pulley is aligned with the starter housing grommet opening, to prevent the pulley from unwinding, I drilled a 9/32" hole through the ratchet for a 1/4" steel rod to hold it in place so I can feed the rope/string through the opening and into the pulley and secure it with a double knot. And then I lubricate the spring with motor oil through the oil hole in the pulley and pull the rope several times to evenly distribute the oil and test the starter. (Work smarter, not harder.)


How to clean the main jet in a 16hp/18hp flathead opposed twin cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine -

The main jet is located in the float bowl of the carburetor. To access and clean it...

  1. If equipped, remove the hood of the tractor (they're easy to remove).
  2. Remove the air cleaner/filter assembly. Be careful not to drop the screws down inside the carburetor!
  3. Remove the choke cable from the carburetor.
  4. Remove the top of the carburetor.
  5. Remove the hex plug on the side of the carburetor.
  6. Use a carburetor jet cleaner wire set or an oxy-acetylene welding torch tip cleaner of the correct size to clean out the hole (orifice) in the main jet. The hole (orifice) in the main jet is accessed through where the hex plug is. IMPORTANT: When cleaning the hole (orifice) in the main jet, use a wire cleaner of the correct size, and be careful not to enlarge the hole, or the engine may run too rich on fuel! This cannot be undone!
  7. Use 150± P.S.I. compressed air with an air blow gun nozzle to clear out the hole (orifice) in the main jet and dirt/debris from the float bowl area.
  8. Reinstall everything in reverse order of removal.

Your engine should rev up without using the choke afterwards! This may have to be done every few years because these type of carburetors are notorious for having tiny particles of dirt/debris that passes through the fuel filter settle at the bottom of the float bowl. The main jet is real close to the bottom of the float bowl too, which allows dirt/debris to clog it over time.


Click Here for Detailed Illustrated Plans on How to Construct a Professional Pull-Back and Self-Propelled Garden Tractor Pulling Sled (Available Soon) FYI - The self-propelled garden tractor pulling sled that I built is such an excellent design, I realized later that I made something very special when other people copied after it. - Brian Miller


To place an order, send your item(s) for repairing, and/or for customer service assistance, and FREE honest and accurate technical support, please contact: A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises, 12091 N Rte B, Hallsville, MO (Missouri) 65255-9604 USA. Please call in your order or send an email with a list parts you need and your contact information. Phone: 1-573-881-7229 (cell; call, text or leave voicemail) or use Whatsapp. Please call Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, except holidays. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian on the phone, please be patient and understanding because I stutter.) E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. Payment Options. A-1 Miller's shop is open to the public Monday-Friday, 9am to 5pm, Central time zone, with an appointment on weekends, except holidays. If you're the kind of person who don't trust delivery/shipping companies (mis)handling your high-dollar and fragile merchandise, you can make the long drive to A-1 Miller's new shop (click image to the right) to personally purchase parts, or drop off and/or pick up your carburetor, clutch assembly, engine and/or parts, etc., for repairing and/or rebuilding. Or visit the address of our (old) shop mentioned above to drop off your engine, transmission, transaxle, garden tractor, small motorized vehicle, etc. We also custom build pulling tractors and other small vehicles. Please contact me before coming so I'll be at my shop waiting for your arrival. When you visit our shop, you will be dealing directly with the owner for the best customer service. 12091 N Rte B, Hallsville, MO - Google Maps "The road to a [trusted] friend's house (or shop) is never long." Don't sacrifice quality workmanship for distance. [Return To Previous Paragraph, Section or Website]

By the way - As business is booming, we relocated our business at 12091 N. Route B, Hallsville, MO 65255 with a new, bigger, better, fully insulated, heated and air-conditioned building/shop (shouse) so we can provide many more professional services and high quality parts, and hire more reliable and knowledgeable help to have our customer's parts orders fulfilled sooner, parts repaired sooner and engine rebuilds performed promptly without a long delay. We will also offer custom welding fabrication jobs and other custom services. And we also provide pick up and delivery service and perform professional repairs for various small engines and lawn & garden equipment! Photos of our new building/shop are posted here! 12091 N Rte B, Hallsville, MO - Google Maps

Payment Options, and We Ship to Canada and Worldwide
Item(s) in a package or cushioned envelope weighing less than 1 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Letter Post for a 4-7 days delivery. Packaged item(s) weighing over 1 lb. and up to 66 lb. is sent by US Postal Service Airmail Parcel Post for a 4-10 days delivery. I cannot use the US Postal Services' Flat Rate Priority Mail envelopes and boxes to ship outside U.S. territories. Item(s) weighing over 67 lbs. or more is sent by FedEx Ground or equivalent services. We try to keep our shipping cost to customers within reason. Therefore, we don't ship our products in a fancy-looking package with our company name and/or logo on it because most customers will just toss it in the trash after they remove the contents. And being there is no USPS tracking number outside the US, all I can do is make sure I write your address correctly on the customs form and on your package.

My websites are not set up to process orders and accept payments. Therefore, to place an order with me, please call either number above or send an email with a list of parts you need, with your name, complete and correct postal mailing address and phone number. For payment options, I accept cash (in person), USPS Postal Money Orders, cashier's checks, business checks, MasterCard, VISA, Discover, American Express (please add 2.5% to the total amount for the credit/debit card processor's surcharge). If paying with a credit/debit card, please call me at either number above. Or to make a payment to me through PayPal, please click this link: https://www.paypal.com. Or use Cash App (username: pullingtractor) or Venmo (username: Pullingtractor) to make a payment to me. And be sure to mention a description of what the payment is for with your full name, postal address, phone number and email address. I also accept payments through Western Union Money Transfer or MoneyGram Money Transfers. If sending a money order or cashier's check, please include a note in the envelope with your name, complete mailing address, phone number, email address and a description of what the payment is for. I'll make a note of your order when I have all your information, and I may have to order some of the parts on your list, which should take a few days to come in, but I will send everything to you as soon as I have the parts in stock after I receive your payment.



à Return to Main Pulling Tips Page | Return To Previous Website | Various Vendors Related to Tractor Pulling | Top of Page

Copyright © 1996-Present. This website created, designed and maintained by Brian Miller.