10-18hp Kohler (or Carter [model N]) CarburetorInformation about the Kohler Carburetor, Various Fuels and Fuel Systems

Identification of Carter and Kohler Carburetors -

Kohler (or Carter [model N], that was used only on the early 10hp engines) made four types of carburetors for their K-series single cylinder 10hp through 18hp engines and KT-series opposed twin cylinder engines.

The size number on all Carter [model N] and Kohler carburetors is embossed inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. A "26" carburetor has a 26 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures 1.07". A "28" carburetor has a 28 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts to 1.102 inches (28 ÷ 25.4 = 1.102"), but actually measures 1.17". And a style "30" carburetor has a 30 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts to 1.181 inches (30 ÷ 25.4 = 1.181"), but actually measures 1.200". If there's no number embossed, you'll need to accurately measure the diameter of the throttle bore to determine the size carburetor you have.

Airflow -

For pulling competition, carburetor design and size depends on port sizes, valve sizes, if the intake valve and seat have 30°/31° angles and undercut heads, and the cam profile (lift and duration) is important. If an engine has stock ports, valves and cam, a plain stock carburetor can be used. But if the ports and valves have been reworked for more airflow, and a bigger cam is going to be used, then a bored-out carburetor with a 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi can be used for best performance.

The 26mm carburetor obviously has a smaller throttle bore. Therefore, is restricted as to how much air can flow through it, even with the venturi removed. It'll work excellent on a hot 10hp or mild 12hp engine, but the larger 28mm and 30mm carburetors flows more air, 7.7% more for the 28mm, and 15.5% more for the 30mm. Which are ideal for a hot 12hp and larger engines with porting, polishing, bigger valves and a big cam. If you feel that using a single 30mm carburetor isn't enough for your particular engine, then either a "Super Carb," Dellorto, Mikuni, S&S Super D or a twin Kohler carburetor setup (on a "Y" intake) should be used.

If you have a 14hp Kohler engine, and you can't find a #28 or #30 carburetor, then a #26 carburetor will work just fine for ordinary yard use. Personally, we ran a stock #26 on the 14hp engine that's on our 6,000 lb. self-propelled pulling sled for 10 years and the engine didn't lack any power whatsoever.

Identification of Walbro Carburetors -

The Late model Walbro carburetor - good for non-competition pulling applications onlyWalbro carburetor originally come on all Magnum engines, and are very good, reliable and they last a long time before requiring service. The only problem with Walbros if you want to use one on a pulling tractor or for high performance application is they can't be bored out or modified in any way because the throttle bore wall (where the venturi is located) is too thin. Therefore, they're limited to how much air they can flow. The US government told Kohler and all other small engine manufacturers to redesign the carburetor that's used on their engines so they'll produce less air pollution. So they did away with the old style Kohler carburetor and started using the redesigned emissions-controlled Walbro carburetor. The older Walbros have an adjustable high speed main jet, which is located on the lower side of the carburetor. But the newer ones have a fixed or non-adjustable high speed main jet. This is to keep people from setting the air/fuel ratio too rich and create more air pollution.

Walbro carburetors work great for ordinary lawn and garden equipment, general yard work and they're perfect for basic stock low rpm/low-performance pulling tractors with an engine that's governed to a maximum of 3,200 rpm with a fixed main jet, or at 3,600 rpm with an adjustable main jet. A carburetor with a fixed high speed main jet is limited to just 3,200 rpm and should never be operated faster for an extended length of time. Although the venturi cannot be bored out on a Walbro, they work equally as well as the older Carter or Kohler carburetors when used on a stock engine. The main jet in the newer Walbro carburetors are calibrated at the factory to provide the engine with just the right amount of fuel at 3,200 rpm. Therefore, the fixed jet inside the carburetor cannot be replaced with an adjustable one.

Walbro carburetors having a fixed main jet are designed with emission controls in mind to run leaner to create less air pollution. However, the main problem with most Walbros having a fixed main jet is during cooler weather operation. During cool weather, and running at 3,200 rpm, the engine will sometimes run too lean on fuel and operate erratically. To fix this, simply enlarge the hole in the main jet a few thousands of an inch. The factory main jet hole size for 100% gasoline is 3/64" (.047"). If necessary, enlarge the main jet and fuel inlet holes with a #55 (.052") drill bit. That's a .0052" difference. After doing this, for cool weather, the engine should run better, last longer and produce more power. But don't enlarge the main jet hole too much! A too big of a hole will cause an engine to run too rich on fuel, making it blow black smoke out the exhaust and possibly fouling the spark plug. If the hole is made too large, the carburetor will be useless for gasoline, and E-85 fuel must be used. But if an engine is going to be used only during warm weather and if it runs okay [during warm weather], don't enlarge the main jet hole.

On the newer carburetors with a fixed main jet, the main jet hole may need to be enlarged .002"-.003" to give the engine a little more fuel so it'll run better at higher rpms. Otherwise, the engine could "burn up" or wear out prematurely due to the lean air/fuel mixture. We have an assortment of tiny drill bits that we use on our customer's lawn & garden equipment carburetors.

IMPORTANT! A new style Walbro carburetor with a fixed high speed main jet should never be used on a non-governed (wide-open throttle) engine or on an engine that's going to turn at 3,200 rpm! The reason for this is because if an engine operates faster with a carburetor having a fixed high speed main jet, it'll run too lean on fuel at high rpm (it'll draw much more air than fuel), which will cause the combustion chamber to overheat and the excessive heat will likely damage the piston and rings and possibly warp the cylinder head and/or exhaust valve or even crack the cast iron engine block. A lean fuel mixture can also melt away part of the aluminum in the combustion chamber of an aluminum block engine.

The size number on all Walbro carburetors is embossed inside the carburetor and can be seen by looking inside the upper part of the choke end, just above the venturi. A "52" carburetor has a 26 millimeter diameter throttle bore, which converts closely to 1.024 inches (26 ÷ 25.4 = 1.024"), but actually measures 1.07".

And being the old-style 7hp (K161) and 8hp (K181) Carter model N carburetor venturi can't be bored out either, the only option for pulling competitively with these is to fabricate an adapter to fasten to the intake port on the engine block and use a #52 Walbro or #26 Carter or Kohler carburetor.

The best way to determine which engine any particular carburetor is made for is to measure the diameter of the throttle bore. Because a set of numbers that's stamped on the carburetor body mean nothing, not even to Kohler Engine dealers. If a carburetor measures .822" (13/16"), then it's made for the 7hp or 8hp engines. If it measures 1.07", then it's for the 10hp or 12hp engines. And if it measures 1.17" or 1.2", it's for the 14hp, 16hp (flathead) or 18hp OHV engines.

And the new style Walbro carburetors are notorious for leaking gas, even after installing a new kit with a new float valve and seat. This is undoubtedly how big business keep selling new carburetors nowadays. Anyway, most newer Walbro carburetors aren't worth rebuilding. If it can be done, install a rebuilt Carter or Kohler carburetor instead. If it's on an engine that requires a difference bolt pattern for mounting the carburetor, an adapter may have to be made. But the older Walbros are worth rebuilding, because they're much like the Carter and Kohler carburetors. They were made back in the day when most businesses took pride in their products.

If the threads strip out where the float bowl retaining bolt goes, to fix this, cut about 1/8" off the bottom of the protruding part and reinstall the float bowl and retaining bolt. It'll tighten the bowl slightly more onto the carburetor, and you'll need to check and see if the two side fuel feed holes aren't blocked or partially blocked with the retaining bolt installed and tightened. If they are blocked, they can be redrilled so the fuel will reach the main jet. This works the same with an OEM retaining bolt and an aftermarket bottom adjuster. Be sure to back the adjuster out before installing so the needle won't jam into the main nozzle and get damaged. And if the threads strips again, you may have to get another carburetor body. Because the metal is simply too thin for welding or a Heli-Coil insert.

How to Set the Governor Adjustment - Top of page

If your engine revs with no closing of the throttle shaft, or surges, then the governor is probably out of adjustment. To set the governor on a Kohler (or virtually any engine)...

  1. Install all the throttle linkages, governor parts, etc., in their respective places.
  2. Loosen the bolt that clamps the lever to the governor cross-shaft that protrudes out of the engine block.
  3. With the throttle plate blocked in the wide open position, rotate the cross-shaft counterclockwise until it stops. Now tighten the bolt.
  4. That's all that's to it! But if this doesn't fix the problem, then perhaps a governor part inside the engine is damaged or the screws came out of the throttle plate, where it fastens to the throttle shaft.
  5. And it doesn't matter how long or short the link is because the governor is adjusted by the clamp on the cross shaft. Actually, We don't know why Kohler made the link adjustable. It serves no purpose to lengthen or shorten it.
  6. You can also go here for further details and pictures: http://cubfaq.com/govadjust.html.

And to set the high rpm governored speed, place one end of the governor spring in the middle to lower hole in the "L" shaped governor lever, and place the other end of the spring in either the top or second hole from the top in the short lever that's located under the carburetor or on the flywheel shroud. It's best to use a [Dixson] small engine tachometer to determine the exact rpm to prevent over-revving of the engine, which could cause the connecting rod to break. (Double the reading on the [Dixson] tachometer on engines with camshaft-operated ignition points.) The high speed governor limit for a stock engine is set at 3,600 rpm. For a stock pulling engine, set it at 4,000 rpm, or whatever sanctioning rules require.

Do not mistakenly rotate the cross shaft clockwise (opposite rotation than what it shows in the drawing above) until it stops, tighten the clamp and then run the engine! Doing this could cause the lever (see below) to jam into the governor flyweights, breaking off the lever and/or possibly destroying the governor gear assembly.

If the governor cross-shaft (the shaft that protrudes from the block) gets bent due to rough handling of the engine, and if it's not bent too bad, just use a hammer to straighten it. It's made of mild steel. But if it's bent severely and breaks off, it must be replaced. If this happens, usually the bushing/nut (Kohler part # 235476) will break and it will need to be replaced, too. Or, if the above adjustment was attempted, and the governor shaft keeps rotating without stopping, this means the flat lever on the shaft has broken off. This will allow an engine to operate dangerously at wide open throttle at all times.

To fix either of the above, another governor shaft (Kohler part # A23525601S) must be installed. To install another shaft, the entire engine must be completely disassembled. This means EVERYTHING inside the engine block (crankcase) will need to be removed. And then the replacement shaft can installed from inside the crankcase. But before the old shaft is removed, the bronze bushing/nut on the outside must first be removed. The governor gear assembly doesn't have to be removed. The shaft lifts out from inside the crankcase and is installed in reverse order of removal. And it'll be a good idea to place a small bead of weld on the flat lever to secure it to the shaft to prevent future breakage. (We think this is something that Kohler should have done.) We realize that this is a lot of work just to replace a small [important] part, but it must be done in this way. There is no other way to replace it.

How to adjust the fuel mixture screws on a Kohler (or virtually any early small engine) carburetor - Top of page

First of all, on the Carter and Kohler carburetors, the hole towards the bottom of the long high speed main needle adjuster is supposed to be open, so the engine can draw fuel for idling from the float bowl. The idle fuel passageways for a Carter or Kohler carburetor goes as follows: The fuel is first drawn through the high speed needle adjuster via the lower hole towards the bottom, then it travels upward, then over and down toward the idle mixture screw (which sets at an angle), and then the fuel is drawn into the throttle bore, next to the throttle plate. The information below is mainly for Carter and Kohler carburetors. The fuel mixture screws are used as follows:

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If an engine blows black smoke out the exhaust while running, then here are the causes:

Black exhaust smoke is when an engine is getting too much gas and/or not enough air in the combustion chamber. The causes for this are either... (listed from most common to rare causes)

  1. Choke plate isn't opening all the way.
  2. Too rich of fuel mixture adjustment on the carburetor.
  3. Choke plate isn't fully opening.
  4. Worn float valve (needle and seat).
  5. Bad float.
  6. Float out of adjustment. Set the float so it's level with the carburetor body with the carburetor turned upside-down.
  7. If the baffle shield is old and stiff, it can push down on the float after the float bowl is installed, preventing the float from shutting the fuel off at the float valve (needle and seat).
  8. Too much fuel pressure if using an electric fuel pump.
  9. Hole in the main nozzle (jet) have been drilled too large.

Also, sometimes flooding of the carburetor will deposit gas in the motor oil, but only in a vertical shaft engine. Because gas can't seep into the crankcase on horizontal shaft engines. The cause of the problem is the carburetor is flooding. The gas seeps past the piston ring gaps and into the crankcase. To fix this, clean the float valve (needle and seat) in the carburetor, or install a new carburetor kit. Also, clean out the fuel lines with compressed air and install a new fuel filter. And then the oil will need to be drained and fresh motor oil installed.

Causes of Carburetor Flooding -

What prevents most carburetor and fuel system from having problems when using gasoline is to run the engine out of fuel or draining the entire fuel system if it's not going to be used for more than 30 days at a time. DO NOT TRUST FUEL STABILIZER! If there's no fuel left in the system, then there should be no problems. The following causes are listed from most common to rare.

If fuel drips out of the carburetor...

  1. Dirt, debris, lint or a hair lodged between float valve and seat, or a damaged fuel filter. This will prevent the float valve from fully closing in the seat.
    • Solution: Cleaning of the float valve and seat, flushing out the fuel line with compressed air and/or new replacement of the fuel filter is required.
  2. A worn or damaged fuel inlet valve and/or seat.
    • Solution: New replacement is required.
  3. Loose float valve seat (if it's threaded into the carburetor body). Sometimes these will loosen or not installed tight enough, resulting in a light flooding condition.
    • Solution: If tightening the seat doesn't stop the fuel leak, then a new float valve and seat with a new gasket/seal will need to be installed.
  4. Float bowl not sealing around the neoprene (rubber) "O" ring and baffle splash shield.
    • Solution: Use a medium size hammer to flatten the center of the float bowl from the inside so when installed and the bottom screw is tightened, the bowl will press tighter around the "O" ring and baffle shield.

If gas constantly pours out of the carburetor...

  1. Float valve installed incorrectly. (When installing a new overhaul kit.)
    • Solution: The rubber tip (pointed end) goes in the seat and not against the float.
  2. Bad or damaged float (hole in float). To test for a bad float, if it's a hollow brass float, remove it from the carburetor and shake it next to your ear. If you hear a sloshing sound inside it, then it has gas in it and new replacement is required. You can also feel if there's gas inside it by shaking it. Repairing by re-soldering a brass float will most likely not work or last long. Do NOT use a small torch to solder a hole in the float! The float WILL explode!
    • Solution: New replacement is required.
  3. Small hole in bottom of float bowl. This happens to aluminum float bowls and is caused by corrosion from water in the fuel system. Water is heavier than gas. So it goes below the gas and straight to the carburetor. Water will corrode an aluminum float bowl. And during winter, it'll freeze in the float bowl and crush the float.
    • Solution: New replacement of either part is required.
  4. Float stuck to bottom of float bowl. This is caused by engine setting in storage for a long period of time with gas left in the gas tank and carburetor. To prevent this from happening or happening in the future, drain the entire fuel system, and then loosen the float bowl retaining bolt to finish draining all the fuel from the float bowl.
    • Solution: Cleaning of float and bowl is required.
  5. If the carburetor on an engine have been setting for some time without an air filter housing, and if gas pours out of the carburetor only when cranking the engine, especially with a mechanical fuel pump, then the gas stops pouring when the engine isn't cranked, check for a clogged atmospheric vent hole. Sometimes mud daubers (wasp-like insect) will build their nest in places like this.
    • Solution: Clearing out the atmospheric vent (and entire carburetor) with compressed air is required.
  6. If an electric fuel pump is used, it either has too much pressure, or if there's a fuel pressure regulator in-line, it's set too high or stuck in position.
    • Solution: Repair or make adjustments as needed.

And if there's gas in the oil (you can smell the gas), this means there's a hole in the diaphragm in the mechanical fuel pump. Being there are no fuel pump repair kits available nowadays, an either good used or new replacement fuel pump is required.

DANGER! Gasoline and alcohol fuels are both extremely flammable! Use caution and don't smoke, avoid making sparks or don't have an open flame exposed when working near or with either of them. Work in a well-ventilated area, too.

IMPORTANT! We've been to a lot of garden tractor pulls over the years and noticed that some tractors leak fuel in places where a fuel leak shouldn't be. Therefore, we think that safety inspections needs to include checking the fuel lines for dry-rotting, cracks, fuel leaks, loose fittings, etc. (The tractors should have sturdy wheelie bars, too.) The inspectors needs to grab hold of the fuel line(s) with their hand and wiggle it around and slightly jerk on it to check for durability. This is important. Especially in a kid's class. Don't wait until an issue becomes a problem, and then turn into a catastrophe. If pullers would build their tractors right to begin with and maintain them properly, there wouldn't be any injuries, fires, or fear of a fire. Click here to read more about a garden pulling tractor catching on fire.

If your engine idles well, but runs at high speed only with the choke partially closed, or if it hesitates to rev up upon acceleration, the following are the most likely causes: (listed from most common to rare)

If an engine backfires after running for a few minutes...

Removing the Main Nozzle (or Main Jet) -

When rebuilding a plain, stock Carter or Kohler carburetor, there is no need to remove the main nozzle. If the main nozzle won't come out, don't worry about it. All that has to be done is make sure the bottom hole is open. But if you're modifying a carburetor to bore the venturi, then the main nozzle will definitely need to be removed. And unfortunately, sometimes they get stuck in place and the screwdriver slot strips out. (We hate when this happens.) We found the only way to remove them is by drilling them out. Because soaking it with penetrating oil or using a small blunt punch to rotate it counterclockwise does not help at all. To remove a stuck main nozzle, follow the instructions below:

  1. First, remove the high speed needle adjuster so it won't get damaged.
  2. Clamp the carburetor firmly (but gently) in a bench vise with the float area upwards.
  3. Place a flat screwdriver with a square end in the slot.
  4. Tap the main nozzle sharply with a medium size hammer. This will most likely break it loose and then it should be easy to remove.

If the above method doesn't work, then the alternative is to drill it out. The process to drill it out is as follows:

  1. First, remove the high speed needle adjuster so it won't get damaged.
  2. Clamp the carburetor firmly (but gently) in a bench vise with the float area upwards.
  3. Drill squarely into the nozzle with a 3/16" drill bit, then enlarge the hole with a 9/32" drill bit.
  4. Very gently, use a long, slender and very sharp pointed steel chisel to collapse the threaded "remains" of the nozzle. NOTE: Be extremely careful when doing this! Because the threaded aluminum tube could crack, rendering the carburetor body totally useless.
  5. Pry out the remains of the nozzle with a long needle-nose pliers. If this won't work, then use a long 3/16" diameter steel rod to drive out the remains of the nozzle through the high speed needle hole from the top side of the carburetor.
  6. Nut SplitterReshape the threads with a 3/8-24 NF tap and then install either a new or good used nozzle from a junk carburetor. If the nozzle in a junk carburetor is stuck, you can just split the threaded tube with a nut splitter. If attempting this, be careful not to damage the nozzle itself!

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New brass main nozzle. Fits all Carter and Kohler #26 and #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 10hp-16hp flathead engines, 18hp OHV and twin cylinder cast iron flathead engines. This particular part is not available from Kohler. Professionally CNC machined in the USA . Drilled for gas. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

Go here for more parts: Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop Services

E-85 Fuel Using E-85 Fuel in a Garden Tractor or Lawn & Garden Equipment -

What is E-85? E-85 is the term for motor fuel blends (special blend of automotive fuel) of 85% ethanol (corn alcohol AKA "moonshine") and 15% gasoline. E-85 is an alternative fuel as defined by the U.S. Department of Energy. Besides its superior performance characteristics, ethanol burns cleaner than pure gasoline; it is a completely renewable, domestic, environmentally friendly fuel that enhances the nation's economy and energy independence. The addition of ethanol boosts octane and, because it is an oxygenate, ethanol contributes to a more complete fuel combustion resulting in reduced emissions of carbon monoxide and other ozone-forming emissions. Ethanol also degrades quickly in water and, therefore, poses much less risk to the environment than an oil or gasoline spill. To learn more about E-85, visit this web site: National Ethanol Vehicle Coalition (http://www.e85fuel.com).

Fueling with E85 is not only beneficial to the environment, you'll most likely see a small increase in performance, which will be accompanied by a small decrease in fuel economy. On average, when an engine is powered by E85, the engine will have about 5% more horsepower and a 10% drop in fuel-efficiency. The added power comes from ethanol's higher octane rating (ranging from 100-105). The fuel economy decrease comes from the fact that ethanol has a lower energy content than gasoline, which means the engine will have to use more of it.

E-85 can be used in virtually any gas engine fuel system, new or old. The only problem is, the rubber-like fuel line, seals and gaskets in the fuel system may deteriorate due to the alcohol content in E-85. But if the fuel system has neoprene or synthetic rubber parts, there should be no problems. E-85 works great for pulling competition, general yard use or for any small engine equipment. It'll create less carbon build up in the combustion chamber, too. I've reworked lots of carburetors for people who use their garden tractor just to mow grass with and they love how the E-85 produces more power. If an engine is converted correctly, E-85 will cause no problems with engine wear or carburetor deterioration. Basically, all that needs to be done to the carburetor is the main jet and fuel inlet holes will need to be enlarged slightly and the ignition timing advanced slightly. If this isn't done, the engine probably won't run on E-85, or if it does, it will run too lean on fuel, possibly damaging the valves, piston and piston rings because of the excessive operating temperature.

(Updated & clarified 4/25/11) On the 7hp and 8hp Kohler K-series and Magnum engines, with the Carter model N carburetor, the main jet hole size for 100% gasoline is .058" (#51 [drill bit]) in diameter. To convert these carburetors for E-85, both the main jet and fuel inlet holes will need to be made about 20% bigger. Enlarge both holes with a .078" (5/64" or #47) diameter drill bit. NOTE: The main jet in these carburetors are NOT removable. And once the hole is made bigger, it cannot be made smaller. Then with the engine running at 3,600 rpm, adjust the high-speed fuel mixture needle valve so the engine will run smoothly. On the 10hp-16hp flathead single- and twin-cylinder Kohler K-series and Magnum engines with the older Carter or Kohler carburetors, the factory main jet hole size for 100% gasoline is 1/16". To convert these carburetors for E-85, the main jet hole and fuel inlet (float valve) hole will need to be made about 20% bigger. Enlarge both holes with a 5/64" (.078") drill bit. Be sure to drill the fuel inlet from the inside out, to prevent a burr that may cause the carburetor to flood. For best accuracy, use a small metal lathe to drill the hole. Then with the engine running at 3,600 rpm, adjust the high-speed air/fuel mixture needle valve until the engine runs smoothly. The ignition timing will need to be advanced to 24 degrees BTDC so the engine will make full advantage and maximum power of the slower burning, higher octane fuel. No special motor oil is required with E-85. But the oil may need to be changed more often with E-85. The 20% increase in the main jet and fuel inlet holes, and ignition timing applies to virtually all small engine carburetors and engines, despite the make or manufacturer.

E-85 can be purchased at select gas stations in the U.S. It cost a lot less per gallon than regular unleaded gasoline. And an engine will burn a little more fuel with E-85, but it'll also produce about 10% more power, operate cooler, have a cleaner combustion chamber and the engine will last longer.

The Advantages of Using 100% Methanol Fuel -

If the carburetor have been reworked and the ignition timing are adjusted and set correctly, methanol can produce up to 13% increase in horsepower. If the fuel is set slightly rich (which it should be), there's no need to constantly adjust the carburetor settings or ignition timing to compensate for changes in hot or cold weather conditions. Because of its low volatile octane rating (ability to burn quick), methanol shouldn't be used for general yard use. It's primarily a high-performance fuel only, and should be used only in a high-performance engine. Starting fluid or gas may need to be sprayed into the carburetor to get the engine started in cooler weather, though. And, faster gearing may be needed because of the increase in horsepower and torque.

It may take some experimentation to get a particular tractor to perform on methanol. Just because most experienced pullers get their tractors hooked-up good on it is no reason anyone else can't. Once one do get their tractor to perform on methanol, they'll be reluctant to go back to gas. By the way - methanol can be purchased at most places that sell racing fuels. And it cost less than 1/3 of racing gas fuels (per gallon).

Using Methanol Fuel in a Garden Pulling Tractor -

Methanol, also known as wood alcohol, is made primary from natural gas. And is the best high performance fuel available. Far better than any expensive "racing" petroleum fuel. It'll help any 4-stroke high performance engine produce more power and run cooler. Methanol is a safe fuel to use. But if anyone feels uncomfortable using or converting an engine for use of methanol, please consult with a professional engine builders.

Methanol will mix equally with water and it evaporates quickly. The important thing to remember when storing methanol is the keep it in an air tight container in a dry place. Because it can easily draw moisture when stored for a long period, especially in a metal container. (Unlike plastic, steel gets cold, which draws condensation.) If one suspects that water had gotten into the methanol, it can be separated easily by using a chamois. The chamois will absorb the water and allow the methanol to pass through. If gas has 10% alcohol, then the alcohol will mix the water with the gas and it will appear to have no water at all. The only way to separate the water from the gas and alcohol is through a chamois. Again, the chamois will absorb the water and allow the fuels to drain through.

If your club's sanctioning rules say that the methanol fuel must be able to pass a water test, then just use 100% pure methanol with no oil. (To some clubs, oil is also known as a "contaminant.") Pure methanol will remain clear in water, but turn cloudy in water when mixed with oil. And it's important that the main fuel mixture on the carburetor be richened slightly, to keep from burning the piston (because of the lack of oil in the fuel).

Methanol has no effect on rubber, neoprene or OEM carburetor or fuel system parts nor does it get stale like gas does. But it will corrode aluminum as plain water does if it is not drained and allowed to evaporate from the fuel system over an extended length of time.

Because methanol will ignite only in a narrow range of high temperatures, it is less likely to catch on fire should an accident occur. If methanol does catch on fire, water can extinguish the flames, unlike a gasoline fire.

Methanol burns much slower than the highest octane gasoline. (It has about 135 octane rating.) Therefore, the ignition timing must be advanced more than for gas when burning methanol. If the timing isn't advanced enough, some of the methanol will go unburned and little will be gained. Modifications to the point lobe on the camshaft may need to be made in order to achieve the full ignition timing setting. Methanol also requires a hotter spark. Therefore, a high-voltage/high performance ignition coil is needed, along with a wide spark plug gap (.060"). NOTE - Never run over-advanced ignition timing with any petroleum-based fuel (gas) just to try to get "more power." All that does is seriously overheat the engine and could weaken (collapse) the piston rings, shrink the piston, warp the cylinder head and exhaust valve and it could even cause the engine block to crack.

Details of the Cylinder Restraint System As methanol burns, it produces tremendous combustion chamber pressures under wide-open throttle conditions, especially in engines that's been ported, with oversized valves and a big cam, and even more so during cooler weather. To prevent possible cylinder/crankcase separation or an "engine explosion," the cylinder must be securely "strapped" or fastened to the crankcase. Especially on 12hp engines and up. So strap it now, or scrap it later! Methanol works best in a high compression engine, too.

"Strapping" the cylinder to the crankcase is when a flat piece of heavy steel or aluminum is across the cylinder head and fastened by means of two minimum 1/2" diameter threaded rods, one located just behind the flywheel and the other on the PTO end of the block. It keeps the cylinder from literately breaking loose from the crankcase because of a thin cylinder wall and/or due to extremely high compression.

Moreover, if you had a 10hp block bored for a 12hp piston, or a 12hp block bored for a 14hp piston, and you use your tractor to push snow, definitely strap the cylinder to the crankcase! Because it now has a much thinner cylinder wall, and the cold winter air is more dense (like the air is thicker or there's more of it). Dense air will build up the compression pressure within the combustion chamber, causing the engine to produce more power. But what also happens is at full throttle, this high compression is pushing upward on the cylinder head, and pulling upward on the cylinder wall. And sometimes the cylinder wall will break, ruining the whole engine. We know, I've had this happen to us before. No joke.

Methanol produces a "cooling effect" as it enters an engine at high velocity (high rpm). And, it's a clean burning fuel, it won't carbon up the combustion chamber, foul-out the spark plug or even harm the ozone layer. The crankcase motor oil may need to be changed periodically though.

Testing Methanol Fuel for Contaminants - (Updated 1/20/11)
IMPORTANT! It's a good idea to use a small amount of special upper cylinder lubricant (such as Lucas Oil, M2 Upper Lube & Lead Additive, Marvel Mystery Oil, etc.) mixed with methanol to prevent possible piston-to-cylinder scoring and to help lubricate the valve stems and guides. If a lubricant isn't used and if methanol is ran too lean (especially in cool weather), this could ruin a good high-dollar piston and possibly score the cylinder wall. Methanol must be ran rich if no lubricant is mixed with it. But some sanctioning pulling rules (such as the NQS) don't allow lubricant to be mixed with methanol because it boosts the octane and will likely fail in a fuel test, which means the tractor will be disqualified after competing. The more oil that is added, the higher the octane will be.

When pulling under rules that require 100% methanol fuel, and if a tractor have been using methanol with a lubricant, be sure to completely drain and flush the entire fuel system. Use compressed air to clear out the fuel tank, fuel line, fuel pump, carburetor, etc. Because any trace amount of lubricant remaining will mix with the methanol and be cause for failure in a fuel test. Some new neoprene fuel lines contains oil. This means if 100% methanol is supposed to be used, the fuel line must be flushed with a solvent (paint thinner), then use compressed air to clear it out, and then allow it to thoroughly air-dry.

Methanol by itself is clear, like water. To test it for an added lubricant, pour a small amount of methanol in a clean, clear capped glass container with a small amount of oil, then shake it. If it appears "cloudy," it's contaminated. You can also smell methanol for contaminants.

Here's another thing concerning methanol fuel - when it evaporates, it leaves behind some very small particles of white, flaky calcium deposits in the fuel system. Which is normal and unavoidable. These deposits can ruin a good fuel filter, but won't harm the engine or any other part of the fuel system. So to keep from having any [future] fuel flow problems, don't install a fuel filter. Instead, filter the fuel with a paint, coffee or a fine mesh filter of some sort before it is poured into the fuel tank. Just place the filter in a funnel, and pour the fuel through it into the tank. If there are any very small particles of dirt present in the fuel, they should pass right through, being the jets have been enlarged.

Fuel filters can only filter so much of a grain of dirt. Anything smaller will pass right through, most of time causing no harm. Sometimes a hair will pass through a wire mesh fuel filter, lodging in the float valve, keeping it closing all the way because it can't get past the bend. It'll cause the carburetor to flood overnight. I've seen this happen a few times. On certain small engines, the flooding gas will seep down into the motor oil, ruining it. Briggs & Stratton riding mower engines are notorious for this. All you can do is clean out the carburetor and hope it doesn't happen again. And if there's enough fresh gas in the crankcase, sometimes the crankcase will explode if the engine backfires through the carburetor. The backfire flame will sometimes travel through the valve cover and into the crankcase.

METHANOL vs GAS -

Most garden tractor carburetors can be easily converted for methanol use. The main thing to keep in mind is that methanol requires about twice the volume of fuel than gas. (Approximately a 5-6:1 ratio for methanol versus 10-12:1 ratio for gas). To run methanol, the main jet and fuel inlet (float valve) holes will need to be enlarged to about 50% of their original size.

High compression engines naturally operate at a higher operating temperature. When using low octane gasoline (Regular Unleaded or 87 octane rating) in a high compression engine, the octane of the gas is reduced by 1 point for every 10º above the normal operating combustion chamber temperature that it is formulated for. This will cause the gas to burn faster. When trying to restart a high compression overheated engine on low octane gas, what is happening is the gas is burning quickly and entirely in the combustion chamber, and producing expanding heat before the piston reaches TDC, driving the piston back down in the cylinder before it reaches TDC. This is the cause of detonation (pounding of the piston) and it'll cause the engine to "grunt" or momentarily make the crankshaft rotate in the opposite direction (but the weight of the flywheel prevents this from happening). Overheating could also crack the [cast iron] cylinder, shrink the piston, burn a hole in the piston (detonation) and weaken the expansion of the piston rings. Methanol fuel has an octane rating of 135. This is why methanol works best in a high-performance, high compression engine.

Did you know that high octane gas or "race car gas" (approximately 109-110 octane) is much better than any filling station pump gas when used in a high performance engine? Higher octane gas burns slow, producing more heat, thus allowing an engine to develop more power. Because heat is how an engine produces power. Methanol fuel produces even more heat than gas does.

Methanol never gets stale while setting around. It's burning factors (the qualities that produce power) remain intact until all of the fuel evaporates. Gasoline on the other hand, as it gets old or stale, it's burning factors is the first thing to go. Unlike methanol, eventually all that is left of the old gas is some "foul smelling residue." Methanol never smells "old."

If the air/fuel ratio isn't properly adjusted with both methanol or gasoline, possible engine damage may result. If either fuel is leaned-out too much, possible piston to cylinder wall scuffing, scoring or even seizure may result. If methanol is ran too rich, the oil on the cylinder wall may be diluted, causing excessive wear to the piston, rings and sometimes the cylinder wall. And if gas is ran too rich, loss in power may result with possible spark plug fouling. (Methanol is more forgiving to an engine than gas.)

A high performance cam, larger piston, big valves and a bigger carburetor will undoubtedly help gas-burning engines develop more power. But only from the use of the parts themselves. Methanol on the other hand, will help give an engine a little more boost. Simply from the fuel itself.

Engines will consume less fuel burning gas than methanol. Something good for gas and not for methanol. Which is why methanol is not used on the open market in daily driven automobiles.

Some racing gasolines could eventually cause an engine to wear prematurely when used under high performance conditions (and if the ignition timing is over-advanced). Piston wear, piston ring expansion failure, valve warping, even motor oil breakdown could result over time due to the high operating temperatures of gas in a high compression engine. (Especially on air cooled engines with no cooling system.)

An engine runs cooler burning methanol than gas. The reason why? Approximately twice the amount of methanol fuel enters an engine. There's more fuel per parts of air. As a result, this allows an engine to operate at a much cooler temperature. Gasoline on the other hand, runs less fuel per parts of air. Therefore, it's a "lean" burning fuel. Gas allows a high-compression engine to operate at a higher temperature. Which in turn could cause premature engine wear. Simply because too much heat itself will cause a good engine to wear out faster than anything else.

For more information on methanol, click here: http://personal.riverusers.com/~yawpower/cfsmeth.html, HHMI Lab Safety: LCSS: METHANOL, Erowid Alcohol Vault : Methanol Material Safety Data Sheet and Race fuel - Alcohol fuels.

Using a Gravity Feed Fuel Flow System -

When burning gas only (not methanol) and if an engine is going to turn no faster than approximately 4,000 rpm (governed limit; the factory setting of maximum rpms for virtually all small gas engines, including all of Kohler engines is 3,600), then a gravity feed fuel system with the gas tank mounted higher than the carburetor, stock fuel fittings and fuel line should work fine. (Gravity feed is defined as when the lowest part of the gas tank is positioned higher than the carburetor, and there's no fuel pump involved.)

If the gas tank sets higher than the carburetor, and if a large i.d. fuel line and fittings are used, and if the float level is set a little high, then a gravity feed fuel system should work great for a stock engine turning no more than 4,000 rpms. But a vacuum-operated (or pulse-type), mechanical or electric fuel pump will guarantee that the carburetor won't starve for fuel about halfway down the track. Also, carefully enlarge the fuel inlet valve seat hole to 7/64" (.109"). This will allow more delivery of fuel in the float bowl so the engine won't starve for fuel halfway down the track. Be sure to set the float a little high too, so as it drops down, the fuel inlet valve will open more, allowing more fuel to be deposited in the float bowl.

FYI - All vacuum-operated fuel pumps operate off of the crankcase pressure. The moving piston(s) inside the crankcase create the pulsating effect to activate the pump's diaphragm. And all crankcase-pulse, vacuum-operated fuel pumps come with three fittings - one that connects to the crankcase of the engine block and an IN and OUT fuel line fittings. It should say on the body of the pump where each fitting connects to. But if it doesn't, then the fitting coming from the center of the pump connects to the crankcase vent. And the other two fittings, one connect to the gas tank and the other connects to the carburetor.

To test a plastic crankcase-pulse, vacuum-operated fuel pump, first check that the fuel line (hose) between the gas tank and fuel pump is open and unobstructed, or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can cause a vacuum leak. To test it, disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump and wrap a shop/business towel or clean rag around an air blower nozzle and then insert the nozzle with the rag or towel in the gas tank filler neck. Apply light air pressure in the tank. If fuel comes out of the fuel line, then it's open. After that, reconnect the fuel line to the fuel pump. To test the fuel pump itself, first check the hose that connects the fuel pump to the engine crankcase to see if it has a kink in it or if it has dry-rot cracks, which can also cause a vacuum leak. If it's in good condition, then the final step is to disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor and with adequate amount of fuel in the gas tank, crank the engine and at the same time observe how much fuel is being pumped out of the pump. If there seems to be adequate amount of fuel coming from it, hold your finger over the end of the line and while still cranking the engine, it should build up a small amount of pressure. If none or very little fuel comes out of the pump, then it's bad and needs replacing.

Using a Mechanical Fuel Pump -

Kohler`s Camshaft-Driven Mechanical Fuel PumpWhen turning an engine at wide open throttle, sometimes an engine will starve for fuel with gravity feed fuel system. Therefore, Kohler's camshaft-driven mechanical fuel pump or a low-pressure electric fuel pump should be used to guarantee that the carburetor will receive plenty of fuel at all times. The mechanical pump should be used on a pulling tractor when burning gas only. They're not capable of delivering enough fuel for E-85 or methanol like an electric pump will.

If a Kohler fuel pump produces lower than what seems to be normal pressure or fuel flow, the pump halves are probably warped, causing a vacuum leak. To fix this, separate the pump halves, rotate the diaphragm 90° to remove it from the lever and then resurface the diaphragm flanges on a flat sanding disc. Be sure to thoroughly clean all parts before reassembly. If this doesn't fix the problem, then perhaps a new or good used pump is needed.

To increase the pressure of the mechanical pump (to about 2-1/2 psi), disassemble it and physically stretch the diaphragm pressure spring until it's about 3/4" longer. To increase the volume (fuel flow), the lobe on the camshaft will need to be ground approximately 1/8" deeper.

While the pump is apart, be sure to resurface the pump cover and body diaphragm mating surfaces on a flat sanding disc to prevent any fuel or vacuum leaks. And fuel pump kits are no longer available for any of Kohler's mechanical fuel pumps. By the way - the diaphragm in Kohler fuel pumps is made of very durable material and they rarely go bad. About the only parts that goes bad are the poppet valves, or if water has been sitting in a fuel pump, the aluminum pump cover may corrode and the valves may corrode or become rusted, rendering the pump totally useless.

Mechanical plastic fuel pumps are very durable and they work pretty well, for both yard machines and competitive pulling. The only problem we've had with them is when a gasket is used, the plastic mounting flange would warp where it fastens to the block, causing an oil leak. To fix that, we disassemble the pump and use a sanding disc to resurface the gasket area until it's perfectly flat. Then to keep the flange from warping again, we fasten the pump directly to the block using only clear RTV silicone adhesive/sealant with no gasket. And then we install a flat washer under each bolt head to distribute the mounting pressure evenly. And no more oil leak!

By the way - All of Kohler's 10-16hp flatheads and the OHV 18hp engines come with a lobe on the cam to activate the mechanical fuel pump. The fuel pump installs with the lever positioned upwards. And if there's no 3/4" center hole and two small threaded bolt holes on the side of the block to install a mechanical fuel pump, these will need to be drilled, and the mounting holes drilled and tapped for 1/4-20 NC threads so the engine can accept a fuel pump. Use a fuel pump mounting gasket as a templet.

Troubleshooting a faulty vacuum-operated or mechanical fuel pump -

If an engine sits for about one week or longer, if the fuel in the carburetor evaporates and it's hard to start, or fuel must be squirted into the carburetor to get the engine started, then this means that the vacuum-operated or mechanical fuel pump may be bad. The inlet valve in the pump is leaking, which is allowing the fuel to drain back into the gas tank with the engine off. As the pump tries to syphon fuel from the tank to refill the carburetor, it's unable because the inlet valve is bad. Solution: a new fuel pump will need to be installed.

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If you need any of the items listed below, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please call any day, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.

Go here for more parts: Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop Services
New mechanical plastic body "new style" fuel pump for Kohler 6¼hp/K141, 7hp/K161 & 8hp K181/M8 K-series & Magnum (flathead) single cylinder cast iron block engines. Replaces Kohler part # A-231796-S, C-230361-S, 41 393 09-S, 41 393 10-S, 41 559 01-S, 41 559 02-S, 41 559 05-S. $55.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # 22-1007

New mechanical plastic body "new style" fuel pump for Kohler K-series & Magnum 10hp-16hp (flathead) and 18hp OHV single cylinder cast iron block engines (replaces Kohler part # A235845, 47-559-04S) $45.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # 22-10211

New mechanical plastic body "new style" fuel pump for Kohler flathead twin cylinder KT17, KT19, and M18, M20 Magnum series engines (replaces Kohler part # 52-559-01S, 52-559-02 & 52-559-03.) $60.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

NOTE: Many more mechanical and vacuum-operated fuel pumps for other makes and models of engines are also available. Please call or email us for your needs. More parts may be added later. Please contact us if you're interested in any of the above parts. And the mechanical Kohler fuel pump with the primer lever is no longer available from any of my suppliers. The only pumps we can get are the ones without the lever. This is disappointing because sometimes the lever is needed when the engine runs out of gas and the primer lever can be used to manually pump the fuel to the carburetor. This comes in handy because without the lever, the engine would need to be cranked a lot (this is not good for an electric starter) just to pump the fuel the carburetor.
Fuel pump mounting gasket for 10hp-16hp K-series and Magnum flathead engines. Replaces Kohler part # 25-041-09, 25-041-06, 47-041-04 & 52-041-17. .80¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
In-Line Fuel Filter. Replaces B&S 394358S, 4112, SIMPLICITY 173206, 2173206, SUBARU/ROBIN 263-65011-A0. Diameter: 1-1/4", Micron: 75, Fits 1/4" ID fuel line. For engines with gravity feed or fuel pumps. Made in USA . $3.00 each. Part # 20-10347
Spring-type fuel line clamp for 1/2" o.d. x 1/4" i.d. fuel hose. .25¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
Worn gear type fuel line clamp for small engine fuel hose. $1.50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
New in-line fuel shut-off valve. Fits all 1/4" fuel line hoses. Has no filter. Replaces B&S 494768 & 698183. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # 23-5841 New elbow shut-off valve with fine mesh screen fuel filter. Has 1/8" NPT taper pipe mounting threads and 1/4" barbed fuel line fitting. Replacement for Gravely, Kohler, Lawn-Boy, Snapper, Tecumseh, etc. Threads into gas tank. $5.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # 23-1347
New Fuel Shut-Off/Filter/Sediment Bowl Assembly

Replacement for many older lawn & garden engines. Threads into bottom of gas tank. Dimensions: Overall height: 3"; Maximum width (not including shut-off valve): 1-3/4"; Thread fittings: inlet (top) and outlet (side) are both 1/8" NPT. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.

New replacement glass bowl for fuel filter/sediment bowl assembly. Dimensions: Maximum width: 1-1/2"; height: 1-1/8". $3.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
New bowl gasket for fuel filter/sediment bowl assembly. Made of alcohol and gas resistant neoprene. Dimensions: 1-1/2" o.d. x 1-3/16" i.d. x approximately .050" thickness. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Fuel Line Conversion Kit

Do away with the old fashioned sediment fuel filter and metal fuel line. This upgrade kit includes 1/4" i.d. x 12" long reinforced black fuel line, in-line filter, one straight 1/4" nipple x 1/8" NPT threads fitting (threads into gas tank) and one 90° angle 1/4" nipple x 1/8" NPT threads fitting (threads into carburetor) and four spring-type fuel line clamps. The fuel line is routed under carburetor. This kit is for Kohler engines with the gas tank positioned above the engine. $10.00 each kit.

When to Use an Electric Fuel Pump -

One nice thing about electric fuel pumps besides they're very reliable, is that they're self-priming. Meaning when an engine runs out of gas, the engine won't have to be cranked a lot (making yourself tired from a rope starter, or risk burning up an electric starter from excessive cranking) waiting for a vacuum or mechanical pump to put gas to the carburetor. As soon as the ignition is turned on (if the electric pump is wired in with the ignition circuit), the electric pump instantly puts gas to the carburetor.

Low Pressure Electric/Electronic Fuel PumpsAn electric fuel pump that requires no fuel regulator and works great on virtually any garden tractor engine or up to a 4 cylinder automotive engine with a carburetor is the Facet-Purolator Automotive Electronic Fuel Pump. Facet's part number is FEP 42SV, and Purolator's part numbers are PRO 42S (1.5 - 4 p.s.i.) or PRO 42SV (2 - 3.5 p.s.i.). There's also a Mr. Gasket 42S low pressure universal electric fuel pump, and another electric fuel pump is available at NAPA auto parts stores. It's part # 6101051 (which is actually a FACET # 610-1051 electric pump), and is called a POSI-FLO fuel pump. Specifications are: 12 Volts; 1.5-4 PSI; 25 gal./hr.; compatible with all fuel additives; eliminates vapor lock; two wire design and self-priming. When searching the NAPA auto parts web site, use part # BK 6101051. Low pressure electric fuel pumps are also available on eBay.

The Facet-Purolator pumps are compact, vibration-proof (has solid state dependability), self-priming, easy to install and connect the wiring. They work with either gas, E-85 or methanol fuels, won't flood the carburetor, draw very little amperage from the battery, and they cost less than most OEM electric fuel pumps. They're available at most auto parts stores and on eBay. They're perfect for garden tractors having either a single- or two-cylinder engine!

When burning E-85 or methanol fuels, more fuel volume (increase in flow) is required and an electric fuel pump should be used. The carburetor on most garden tractor engines don't require a lot of fuel pressure.

An electric fuel pump that's made for an import car/truck produce more flow than any of Kohler's mechanical pumps, and in most cases, they don't produce not enough pressure to flood the carburetor. With some high-pressure electric fuel pumps however, an adjustable fuel pressure regulator with a fuel gauge may need to be used in-line. Install a "T" in the fuel line and connect the gauge between the fuel pump or fuel regulator and carburetor. To begin with, set the regulator at about 2-1/2 p.s.i. Make the final adjustment on the fuel pressure at wide open throttle, hooked to the sled, while going down the track. Use a quality fuel pressure gauge that can withstand the vibrations of a garden pulling tractor to monitor the pressure.

Another good thing about an electric fuel pump verses a mechanical pump (if the mechanical pump doesn't have a primer lever, which must be primed manually) is if an engine runs out of fuel, the engine won't have to be cranked for a long time to get the fuel pumped up to the carburetor, which can be hard on an electric starter motor.

When wiring up an electric fuel pump on the tractor with battery ignition, the pump should come with detailed instructions. But if there's no instructions, then connect one wire (usually black in color) to the chassis of the tractor (ground), and the other wire (usually red in color) to the ignition system. The wire going to the coil from the ignition switch is a good one to connect to. On a tractor with magneto ignition, use a separate OFF/ON toggle switch for the fuel pump.

How To Prepare a Fuel Pump for Wintertime or Long-Term Storage -

If the engine is equipped with an electric or mechanical fuel pump, squirt about a teaspoon-full of clean motor oil or automatic transmission fluid in the pump so the diaphragm will remain flexible or rotor vanes won't stick and to prevent the poppet valves from sticking or become corroded.

Carburetor Spacer, Stand-Off, Intake Tube, Intake Extension (or whatever they may be called) -

Spacing the carburetor away from the block causes the fuel to atomize better (break down into smaller particles) so the engine will produce more power. The further the carburetor is spaced, the better the fuel will atomize.

When choosing the length of an carburetor spacer, it seems that a 3" length works best for gas, and 5" length works best for methanol. Because gas is more lean than methanol, it requires less space or distance to fully atomize, and methanol runs richer, it needs more space or distance to fully atomize before it enters the combustion chamber.

Sometimes when using a long (approximately 5"-6" in length) carburetor extension, and when you modified a carburetor, you really shouldn't need to do anything to the idle circuit. Just make a simple adjustment with the adjusting screw. Therefore, your engine should idle fine. If your engine runs rich at idle, then what is happening is if you're running a cam with a lot of duration and a long carburetor extension, and you're allowing your engine to idle for length of time. What this does is the long duration of the cam lobes, especially the intake valve, the pressure of the piston blows some of the fuel back into the intake tube when the engine is idling. Because an engine has very low vacuum at idle speeds with a long duration camshaft. And when you rev up your engine, a lot of black smoke will blow out the exhaust. If this is what's happening, this is normal and there's nothing that can be done about it, except don't let the engine idle for some time. If you need an aluminum carburetor extension, perform a search on the Internet.

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Modifications for the 10-18hp Kohler Carburetor If you need your Carter, Kohler or Walbro carburetor rebuilt for daily use or if you want your carburetor professionally reworked for high-performance use on a Stock, Stock-Altered or Pro-Stock tractor, or if you wish to buy a rebuilt carburetor, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please call any day, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.

Go here for more parts: Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop Services

FYI: We can professionally rebuild older vintage and antique carburetors virtually of any kind as well as newer ones, as long as replacement parts are available. We also have the capability to fabricate new throttle and choke shafts. Please contact us if you have any questions.

IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor to us, please package it securely so it won't get damaged in shipping and include a note in the package with your name, complete mailing address, phone number (in case we have any questions), a description of what you want done and any other parts you may need. And be sure to enclose it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the gas odor from escaping the package. If the odor of gas can still be smelled from outside the package, then apply perfume or cologne on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. And we'll call or email you when it's repaired.

Carter/Kohler Carburetor Work:

For a basic rebuild with no "high performance" modifications whatsoever, according to the condition of the carburetor, the price is $65 or more for labor, plus return shipping & handling. Any additional parts or services are an extra charge. Work includes whatever parts and services it may need that's listed below.

Basic Rebuild Includes:

ü Completely disassemble carburetor, soak and clean it in Berryman Chem Dip® Professional Carburetor and Parts Cleaner and if necessary, thoroughly clean it afterwards with bead blaster (if the paint will come off).
ü Resurface mounting flange and choke end.
ü Install a new throttle shaft bushing for a snug fit. (If required, $25.00 extra. There's a $5.00 extra charge per screw for drilling out broken-off throttle plate screws.)
ü Enlarge the lower hole and apply heat shrink wrap tubing over the tiny holes midway on the high speed needle adjuster so the engine will start easier and idle smoother.
ü Install new overhaul kit.

High-Performance Upgrade for Gas, E-85 or Methanol fuels - $175.00 labor, plus return shipping & handling. Work includes whatever parts and services it may need that's listed below.

High-Performance Modifications Includes the Above Work, Plus:

ü Bore the venturi to match the diameter of the throttle bore or 1" limit (.995" NQS legal size) or whatever your club's sanctioning rules allow. Read your rules carefully to make sure! We'll need a copy of your club's sanctioning rules regarding the legality of the carburetor, so when we rework it, it'll be legal for use in the class you're planning to pull in. NOTE: If main nozzle is stuck and must be drilled out, a new one will be installed. Drilling out stuck nozzle and installation of new one is $30.00 extra, which includes a new nozzle.
ü If you want, we can remove the choke plate and shaft and then plug the shaft holes with silicone sealant. If your rules require a choke or if you wish to have a working choke, please let us know and we will not remove it.
ü Install a new overhaul kit.
ü Install a new throttle shaft bushing (if required, $25.00 extra.)
ü Add $25.00 for converting to bottom main fuel adjuster.
ü Missing, worn or broken parts are extra charge..
Professionally Rebuilt Carburetors For Sale -

Rebuilt to OEM specs, Carter model N carburetors for models K141/K161 (7hp), K181, M8 (8hp) Kohler K-series and Magnum cast iron block, flathead engines. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, then soaked and cleaned with Chem Dip® Carburetor and Parts Cleaner and if necessary, thoroughly clean it afterwards with bead blaster (if the paint will come off). All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary. There are no modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. [When available.]

  • $150.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Please don't throw your old rebuildable Carter or Kohler carburetor core away. These are no longer made and are valuable nowadays.
  • $125.00 with a rebuildable core.
  • IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor, please package it securely so it won't get damaged in shipping and include a note in the package with your name, complete mailing address, phone number (in case we have any questions), a description of what you want done and any other parts you may need. And be sure to enclose it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the gas odor from escaping the package. If the odor of gas can still be smelled from outside the package, then apply perfume or cologne on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas. And we'll call or email you when it's repaired.

10-18hp Kohler (or Carter) CarburetorRebuilt to OEM specs, #26 Carter, Kohler or Walbro carburetors (whatever we may have in stock) for Kohler models K241, M10 (10hp) and K301, M12 (12hp) Kohler K-series and Magnum cast iron block, flathead engines. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, then soaked and cleaned with Chem Dip® Carburetor and Parts Cleaner and if necessary, thoroughly clean it afterwards with bead blaster (if the paint will come off). All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary. There are no modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate installed. For gas or E-85. Please indicate if for a Kohler "Quietline" engine with the oblong-shaped air cleaner, or for an engine with the round air cleaner housing. (The choke lever and air cleaner mounting holes are different.) [When available.]

  • $150.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Please don't throw your old rebuildable Carter or Kohler carburetor core away. These are no longer made and are valuable nowadays.
  • $125.00 with a rebuildable core.
  • IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor, please package it securely so it won't get damaged in shipping and include a note in the package with your name, complete mailing address, phone number (in case we have any questions), a description of what you want done and any other parts you may need. And be sure to enclose it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the gas odor from escaping the package. If the odor of gas can still be smelled from outside the package, then apply perfume or cologne on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas.

Rebuilt to OEM specs, #26 Kohler carburetor for Kohler engine models KT-17, KT-19, M15, M18 and M20 K-series and Magnum cast iron cylinders, flathead twin cylinder engines. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, then soaked and cleaned with Chem Dip® Carburetor and Parts Cleaner and if necessary, thoroughly clean it afterwards with bead blaster (if the paint will come off). All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary. There are no modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate installed. When ordering, please specify which way your choke lever operates. Click here for an explanation. Set up for gas. [When available.]

  • $150.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Please don't discard your old rebuildable Carter or Kohler carburetor core. These are no longer made and are valuable nowadays.
  • $125.00 with a rebuildable core.
  • IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor, please package it securely so it won't get damaged in shipping and include a note in the package with your name, complete mailing address, phone number (in case we have any questions), a description of what you want done and any other parts you may need. And be sure to enclose it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the gas odor from escaping the package. If the odor of gas can still be smelled from outside the package, then apply perfume or cologne on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas.

10-18hp Kohler (or Carter) CarburetorRebuilt to OEM specs, #30 Kohler carburetors for Kohler models K321, M14 and (14hp) and K341, M16 (16hp) Kohler K-series and Magnum cast iron block, flathead engines. These are plain, stock carburetors that's been completely disassembled, then soaked and cleaned with Chem Dip® Carburetor and Parts Cleaner and if necessary, thoroughly clean it afterwards with bead blaster (if the paint will come off). All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary. There are no modifications made to these carburetors whatsoever. Comes with choke plate installed. For gas or E-85. Please indicate if for a Kohler "Quietline" engine with the oblong-shaped air cleaner, or for an engine with the round air cleaner housing. (The choke lever and air cleaner mounting holes are different.) [When available.]

  • $175.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Please don't discard your old rebuildable Carter or Kohler carburetor core. These are no longer made and are valuable nowadays.
  • $150.00 with a rebuildable core.
  • IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor, please package it securely so it won't get damaged in shipping and include a note in the package with your name, complete mailing address, phone number (in case we have any questions), a description of what you want done and any other parts you may need. And be sure to enclose it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the gas odor from escaping the package. If the odor of gas can still be smelled from outside the package, then apply perfume or cologne on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas.

Rebuilt and reworked for high-performance use, #26 Carter or Kohler carburetors. We bore these so they'll have a 7/8", 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi or a 1.07" straight-through throttle bore. These carburetors have been completely disassembled, then soaked and cleaned with Berryman Chem Dip® Professional Carburetor and Parts Cleaner and if necessary, thoroughly clean it afterwards with bead blaster (if the paint will come off). All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary. Setup for gas, E-85 or methanol fuels. Designed for use on Stock and Stock-Altered engines with a stock size or an oversize intake valve. Also, a high-performance carburetor is designed solely for a high-performance engine. If your engine is not a high-performance engine built to race specs, then it will not benefit from a high-performance carburetor whatsoever. NOTE: These carburetors are made to order. So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi) or a 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi, and if you want the choke plate installed. [When available.]

  • With top high speed fuel adjuster. (For up to 4,000 rpm operation.)
    • $225.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Please don't discard your old rebuildable Carter or Kohler carburetor core. These are no longer made and are valuable nowadays.
    • $175.00 with a rebuildable core.
  • With bottom high speed fuel adjuster. (For wide open throttle operation.)
    • $250.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Please don't discard your old rebuildable Carter or Kohler carburetor core. These are no longer made and are valuable nowadays.
    • $200.00 with a rebuildable core.
  • IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor, please package it securely so it won't get damaged in shipping and include a note in the package with your name, complete mailing address, phone number (in case we have any questions), a description of what you want done and any other parts you may need. And be sure to enclose it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the gas odor from escaping the package. If the odor of gas can still be smelled from outside the package, then apply perfume or cologne on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas.

Rebuilt and reworked for high-performance use #30 Kohler carburetors. We bore these so they'll have a 1.2" straight-through throttle bore. These carburetors have been completely disassembled, then soaked and cleaned with Berryman Chem Dip® Professional Carburetor and Parts Cleaner and if necessary, thoroughly clean it afterwards with bead blaster (if the paint will come off). All fuel passageways cleared, new parts and a new throttle shaft and/or bushing are installed if necessary. Setup for gas, E-85 or methanol fuels. Designed for use on Stock, Stock-Altered, Missouri Super-Stock and Pro-Stock pulling engines with a stock size or an oversize intake valve. Also, a high-performance carburetor is designed solely for a high-performance engine. If your engine is not a high-performance engine built to race specs, then it will not benefit from a high-performance carburetor whatsoever. NOTE: These carburetors are "made to order." So when placing an order, please specify if your engine has a stock size or oversize intake valve, if you want it with a straight-thru throttle bore (no venturi) or a 1" (.995" NQS legal) venturi, and if you want the choke plate installed. [When available.]

  • With top high speed fuel adjuster. (For up to 4,000 rpm operation.)
    • $250.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Please don't discard your old rebuildable Carter or Kohler carburetor core. These are no longer made and are valuable nowadays.
    • $200.00 with a rebuildable core.
  • With bottom high speed fuel adjuster. (For wide open throttle operation.)
    • $275.00 each outright, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: Please don't discard your old rebuildable Carter or Kohler carburetor core. These are no longer made and are valuable nowadays.
    • $225.00 with a rebuildable core.
  • IMPORTANT: When sending your carburetor, please package it securely so it won't get damaged in shipping and include a note in the package with your name, complete mailing address, phone number (in case we have any questions), a description of what you want done and any other parts you may need. And be sure to enclose it in a sealed zip-lock sandwich bag to prevent the gas odor from escaping the package. If the odor of gas can still be smelled from outside the package, then apply perfume or cologne on the carburetor to disguise the smell of gas. Because the US Postal Service or other delivery services will not deliver any packages that smell like gas.

Note: We set the air/fuel adjusters on all carburetors that we rebuild somewhat close so the engine will start and run, but because of the attitude, air temperature and engine design, you'll need to make the final adjustments. And the carburetors that we sell come with a 30 day workmanship warranty and are guaranteed to be free of defects. Other carburetor services listed further down in the web site.

How to Convert a Carter or Kohler Carburetor to a Bottom Main Fuel Adjuster -

Due to normal engine vibrations well above 4,000 rpm, or at wide open throttle, the tip of the high speed needle adjuster will "vibrate around" in the lower hole of the main nozzle (or jet). Eventually, the tip of the adjuster will wear the hole, causing it to become enlarged, making the engine run rich on fuel, which will make further lean adjustments impossible.

  1. Cut off the high speed needle adjuster at the lower hole (or just break it off).
  2. Remove the spring under the head of the high speed needle adjuster and install a stack of washers or a spacer that's approximately 1/4" thick.
  3. Reinstall the high speed needle adjuster in the carburetor body and tighten it down, making it non-adjustable. FYI - If you're wondering if the idle tube part of the high speed main fuel adjuster will slow down the airflow through the carburetor, the throttle plate and shaft is wider than the idle tube. So the idle tube won't slow down the airflow whatsoever. Even with the throttle shaft ground thinner to increase the more air flow, it's still wider.
  4. Now install the bottom adjuster to adjust the high speed fuel mixture and that's it!

16hp and Twin Cylinder Air Cleaner AssemblyA reworked carburetor with a bored-out venturi will undoubtedly allow an engine to draw a lot more air at high rpm. The shorter 10, 12 or 14hp air cleaner assembly is too restrictive for this purpose. Therefore, if rules require that you use an air filter, stack two air filters on top of each other (install a longer mounting stud), use an OEM 16hp or twin cylinder air cleaner assembly (they're taller than the 10, 12 or 14hp air cleaners) or install a velocity stack and use an aftermarket K&N air filter. If you pull on a lot of dusty tracks, then it would be worth investing in an air filter to save wear on your engine.

Why Flames Come Out the Header Pipe at High Rpms -

Usually in a high performance engine, on a hot summer night and/or at high attitudes, flames will come out the header pipe at high rpms. This is because all the fuel is not being burned in the combustion chamber and some of the raw fuel exits through exhaust valve and the engine heat burns the fuel on its way out. The engine will lose power because of this, too. To try to burn all the fuel in the combustion chamber, try leaning out the air/fuel mixture and/or advance the ignition timing a few degrees.

Advertisement: (Updated 9/7/08)
If you need any of the items listed below, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please call any day, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest. All parts listed are NEW, not used.

Go here for more parts: Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop Services
Carburetor mounting gasket for 4hp, 7hp and 8hp Carter model N carburetor that's used on the Kohler K-series and Magnum cast iron block flathead engines. 1/32" thickness. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor mounting gasket for all Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and Magnum single cylinder 10hp-16hp, 18hp OHV and twin cylinder cast iron block flathead engines. 1/32" thickness. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Heat Isolator Gasket for all Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and Magnum single cylinder 10hp-16hp, 18hp OHV and twin cylinder cast iron block flathead engines. Prevents engine heat from traveling to the carburetor so the fuel can atomize better for more efficient burning and so the engine will produce more power. 3/16" thickness heat-resistant plastic has a gasket adhered on either side, so there is no need to install two gaskets. $10.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air cleaner mounting gasket for Carter model N carburetor that's used on the Kohler K-series and Magnum single cylinder 4, 7 and 8hp cast iron block flathead engines. $2.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air cleaner mounting gasket for Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors that's used on the Kohler K-series and Magnum single cylinder 10hp-16hp, 18hp OHV cast iron cylinder flathead engines with the round air cleaner assembly. $2.20 each, plus shipping & handling.
Air cleaner mounting gasket for Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors that's used on the Kohler K-series and Magnum single cylinder 10hp-16hp, 18hp OHV cast iron cylinder flathead engines with the oblong air cleaner assembly. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Carburetor overhaul kit for the Carter and Kohler carburetors that's used on Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder cast iron flathead engines. This kit fits all Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors. Replaces Kohler part numbers: 25-757-01, 25-757-02S, 275776, 220701, 275778, 231555. Includes float hinge pin, fuel inlet valve and seat assembly, fuel baffle splash shield (goes between O ring and float bowl) and bowl seal (O ring). Made of gas/alcohol resistant neoprene. Made in USA . Original OEM Kohler Parts. $13.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # 7-070013 Carburetor overhaul kit for Walbro carburetors that's used on late Kohler Magnum flathead cast iron block single cylinder models M10-M16 and twin cylinder engines. Replaces Kohler part # 25 757 11, 25 757 11-S. Made in USA . $14.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New float fuel inlet valve and seat assembly kit. Fits all Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV and twin cylinder cast iron flathead engines. OEM Kohler part #231555, 200443, 231555, 25 757 01. Made in USA . Included in overhaul kit above. $8.00 each kit. Part # 525-485 Black neoprene reinforced fuel hose. Perfect for 100% gas, E-85 and methanol fuels. Available in 1/4" and 5/16" i.d. .50¢ per foot, plus shipping.
Clear PVC fuel hose. Perfect for 100% gas, E-85 and methanol fuels. Available in 1/4" and 3/8" i.d. .50¢ per foot, plus shipping.
New bowl seal (O ring). Fits all Carter, Kohler #26, #28 and #30 and will stretch enough to fit the Walbro carburetors that's used on the Kohler K-series and Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV and twin cylinder cast iron flathead engines. Also fits Tecumseh engines with Carter or Walbro carburetors (large bowl). Made of gas resistant neoprene. 2-3/8" diameter. Included in overhaul kits above. $1.50 each, plus shipping & handling.
Stainless steel float bowl retaining bolt. Please specify if you need a 5/16" (4, 7 & 8hp) or 3/8" (10-16hp) diameter bolt. $4.00 each, plus shipping.		 New fuel baffle splash shield. (Goes between bowl seal and float bowl; prevents splashing gas from entering into throttle bore through the atmospheric vent hole.) Fits all Carter, Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors that's used on the Kohler K-series and Magnum single cylinder 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV and twin cylinder cast iron flathead engines. Made of gas resistant neoprene. Included in overhaul kit above. $4.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New float bowl for Briggs & Stratton 7hp-12hp vertical shaft engines. Also fits perfectly on all #26, #28 and #30 Carter and Kohler carburetors that's used on the 4hp-16hp Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder flatheads, twin cylinder flatheads and 18hp OHV (K361) single cylinder cast iron engines. Made of corrosion-resistant zinc-plated steel, inside and out. Dimensions: 2-21/64" o.d. x 1-17/64" height w/3/8" bottom hole. $5.50 each, plus shipping & handling. NOTE: These zinc-plated steel float bowls are better quality than the aluminum Kohler float bowls because they won't rust through, dent or corrode. These are identical in size and dimensions to the OEM Kohler float bowl, too. And the float bowl for the 10-16hp carburetors will also fit the 7 and 8hp carburetors. The smaller retaining bolt will seal well enough against the 3/8" hole and it won't leak fuel. New brass float. Fits all Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors that's used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum 4hp-16hp, 18hp OHV single- and twin-cylinder cast iron flathead engines. Dimensions: 15/16" i.d. x 1-15/16" o.d. x 5/8" tall. New lower price! $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
NOTE: When installing, ALL brass floats need to be adjusted. They don't come preset. To adjust the float, remove the carburetor and float bowl, turn the carburetor upside-down, and set the float level with the carburetor body. To set the float level, use a small flat screwdriver to bend the tang that rest against the float valve. Then make sure it moves up and down without binding.
New brass main nozzle. Fits all Carter and Kohler #26 and #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 10hp-16hp flathead engines, 18hp OHV and twin cylinder cast iron flathead engines. This particular part is not available from Kohler. Professionally CNC machined in the USA . Drilled for gas. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New High Speed Main Fuel Needle Adjusters - NOTE: If the tip of the needle is slightly bent, it can be easily straightened with pliers and be reused. It will not effect engine performance whatsoever. Also, if the tip isn't exactly "dead center" of the hole in the main nozzle, this will also not effect engine performance.
  • New brass high speed main fuel adjuster needle valve. Fits Carter model N carburetor used on 4, 7 and 8hp Kohler single cylinder cast iron block flathead engines. Replaces Kohler part # 200410, 200410-S. Professionally CNC machined in the USA . Has lower hole enlarged. $20.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • New brass high speed main fuel adjuster needle valve. Fits all Carter and Kohler #26, #28 and #30 carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum single cylinder 10hp-16hp flathead engines, 18hp OHV and twin cylinder cast iron flathead engines. Replaces Kohler part # 235148, 235415. Professionally CNC machined in the USA . Has lower hole enlarged. $15.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
Steel balls for choke shaft detent on all Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors. Made of heat-treated, hardened steel. NOTE: If the choke is cable-controlled, then the spring and ball isn't needed.
  • 1/8" (.124") diameter. For Carter and Kohler carburetors. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • 5/32" (.155") diameter. For Walbro carburetors. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Used pressure spring for balls above. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling. (When available.)
Threading Taps - Made of high speed steel.
  • 3-48 taper tap: $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # WT0300-0081
  • 4-40 taper tap: $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # WT0300-0111
  • 1/8"-27 NPT pipe tap: $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # WT0321-0005
  • Many other sizes are also available.
1/8" NPT Allen tapered thread pipe plug to replace welch plug on side of #26, #28 and #30 Carter and Kohler carburetors. Made of steel. .50¢ each, plus shipping & handling. Requires 1/8" NPT taper pipe tap to create threads.

Drill Bit
3/64" or 5/64" diameter x 1-1/4" long drill bit. Made of high speed steel: $1.60 each, plus shipping & handling.
Throttle Shaft Bushings -
A worn throttle shaft is the #1 cause of most engines wearing out prematurely. If a carburetor has a worn throttle shaft, this will create a vacuum leak and the engine will idle poorly, if at all at times. Not to mention the engine will also draw in dirty air, causing the piston rings to eventually wear and burn oil. More than .010" of play is considered too much for throttle shaft wear. Plus, at operating running speeds (3,600 rpms), the extra air will cause the engine to run lean on fuel, which will overheat the combustion chamber and cause the cylinder head to warp (blow a head gasket) and the piston and rings to wear prematurely, eventually resulting in severe engine wear and excessive oil burning. Along with regular maintenance, repair of a worn throttle shaft is required to help an engine last a long time. The most accurate way to check for amount of wear is to use a dial indicator. Return To Previous Paragraph
  • Bronze throttle shaft bushingBRONZE throttle shaft bushing for the Carter model N carburetor used on the Kohler 4hp, 7hp and 8hp (models K90/91, K141/K161 and K181/M8) flathead cast iron block engines. These bushings are CNC machined in the USA and fit perfect! Dimensions are either: .213" or .219" i.d. x .407" o.d. x 1/8" height. NOTE: Some of these carburetors have a different diameter throttle shaft. It's either .213" (#3 [drill bit] - most common) or .219" (7/32"). If it's the bigger size, then the bushing will need to be carefully enlarged with the .219" (7/32") drill bit. $6.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Also, not all Carter model N carburetors will accept a bushing because there's no counterbore. If there's no counterbore, then the shaft hole will need to be enlarged to match a machined oversized shaft. I offer this service, too.
  • Bronze throttle shaft bushingBRONZE throttle shaft bushing for the #26, #28 and #30 Carter, Kohler and early Walbro carburetors used on the Kohler 10hp through 16hp flathead and 18hp OHV cast iron block engines. These bushings are CNC machined in the USA and fit perfect! Dimensions: 7/16" o.d. x 1/4" i.d. x 1/8" height. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
    • Installation Instructions: The old throttle shaft must be reused with the above bushings. The bushing makes contact with the upper unworn part of the shaft. To install the throttle shaft bushing, remove the two tiny screws that secures the throttle plate to the shaft, then lift the shaft out of the carburetor body. Clean out the counterbore and use a 3/16" or 1/4" bolt and small hammer to squarely drive the bushing into the counterbore and then reinstall the shaft. Should one or both of the tiny brass screws break off while being removed, sometimes the shaft can be difficult to remove. To remove the shaft, grind the flared end of the [broken] stud enough where they are flush with the throttle shaft. A Dremel or equivalent grinder with a small chainsaw sharpening stone works best. Then the broken stud must be drilled out of the throttle shaft with either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm drill bit and retap the threads. The stock screw size is 3-48 NC. Should the threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw, then a larger screw (4-40 NC) must be installed. In this event contact us and we will send you the larger screws with split lockwashers.
    • Additional Note: Usually, the throttle shaft bushing will snug up a worn throttle shaft. The bushing will last a long time, too. But on the newer Walbro carburetors, there is no counterbore for the bushing. Therefore, the hole in the carburetor body where the throttle shaft fits into will wear also. When this happens, a new shaft won't fix the problem. The hole must be accurately bored and a longer, thin-wall bronze bushing will need to be installed with a new shaft, or if it's not worn, sometimes the old shaft can be reused. But if the old shaft is worn and a new throttle shaft isn't available for a particular carburetor, then one must be machined from scratch. And if necessary, a slightly oversized shaft can be installed instead of the original diameter shaft. We can do this for $35.00-$45.00 (depending on type of carburetor), plus return shipping & handling.
  • Bronze Sleeve Bushing. These are for the newest style 10hp-16hp Walbro carburetors that have no 1/8" depth counterbore. NOTE: The throttle shaft hole will need to be accurately and precision bored larger for installation of this bushing. Dimensions: 1/4" i.d. x .313" o.d. x 3/4" long. $5.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
  • Bore newest style Walbro carburetor without the counterbore for installation of a bronze sleeve bushing and then if it needs it, install a new throttle shaft.
    • $25.00 labor for installation of bushing above (without new throttle shaft), plus return shipping & handling.
    • $50.00 with new throttle shaft, installation of bushing above and labor, plus return shipping & handling.
Stainless steel throttle and choke plate retaining screws with split lock washers for all Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors that's used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum cast iron flathead engines. Tensile strength: 60,000 psi. Sizes available: 3-48 NC (most common; .096" diameter) and 4-40 NC (.109" diameter) x 1/4" length. Please specify which size you need. $1.00 per pair, plus shipping & handling. Other small screw sizes are also available. Please contact us and we'll see if we can get what you need at a reasonable price. NOTE: When the two tiny brass screws are removed from the throttle shaft for installation of the throttle shaft bushing, one or both of them may break off. If this happens, the remaining protruding threads in the shaft will need to be ground down so the shaft can be removed from the carburetor body. Then the broken screw(s) in the shaft will need to be drilled out (preferably in a drill press) with a 5/64" drill bit and the threads recut so the new screw(s) will thread in with no problems. We know all about this from years of experience. Machine carburetor body and install bronze bushings for worn choke shaft holes, reuse old choke shaft. $50.00 for parts and labor, plus return shipping.
Throttle shaft w/lever and screws/lockwashers for the new-style 10hp-16hp Carter, Kohler and Walbro carburetors that's used on the 10hp-16hp flatheads and 18hp OHV single cylinder Kohler engines. NOTE: If your old throttle lever has a ball crimped on it, it will need to be transferred to the new lever by grinding away the crimped metal under the ball and then place a bead of weld under the ball to secure it in place on the lever. Also, the holes in the new shaft may not quite line up with the holes in your throttle plate. If this is the case, then the holes in the throttle plate will need to be elongated to match the holes in the throttle shaft. $30.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Upgrade throttle shaft kit to convert older Carter clamp-on throttle lever/shaft to new style Kohler throttle shaft w/lever. Kit includes: new throttle shaft w/lever, (2) 3-48 screws/lockwashers, brass idle speed screw and tension spring. NOTE: Carburetor body must be drilled in a specific location with a #29 or 9/64" bit and threaded with a 8-32 tap to accept idle screw and spring. $35.00 each, plus shipping & handling.
New throttle shaft repair kit for Kohler carburetors used on the Kohler K-series and early Magnum cast iron block single cylinder 10hp-16hp flathead and 18hp OHV single cylinder engines. Replaces Kohler 25-757-16, 25-757-16-S and Gravely 214997. Made in USA . Kit includes steel throttle shaft, bronze throttle shaft bushing, throttle shaft bushing installation tool, one #2-56 NC screw, three 3-48 NC screws and Loctite. $46.50 each, plus shipping & handling. Part # 055-329

NOTE: New shaft has no lever - you must reuse the old one. This kit is designed for the Kohler carburetor, like the one on the right, and not the older Carter carburetor having the short throttle shaft with the aluminum clamp-on lever and a flat on one side of the shaft. For the Carter carburetor, use the bronze bushing above.
Throttle Cable/Choke Housing Clamp. $1.00 each, plus shipping & handling. Throttle Cable/Choke Housing Ferrule. Holds end of cable securely. $2.10 each, plus shipping & handling. Throttle Cable/Wire Swivel. 1/4" diameter. $1.25 each, plus shipping & handling.

Never use multiple gaskets when mounting the carburetor to the engine!
 The use of two or more gaskets will severely warp the flange on the carburetor, causing it to bend, which will create a vacuum leak, or the flange could even break. So remember, first resurface the mounting flange and use just one thin (.030" thickness) gasket.

Or being there's no long intake tube for the gas to atomize in before it reaches the combustion chamber, the Kohler OEM thick carburetor mounting gasket (which is actually a piece of plastic-like material sandwiched between two gaskets) isolates the carburetor from the engine heat so the gas will atomize better when it before it enters the combustion chamber. Atomized gas vapors mixes with the air better, and make the engine produce more power.

Got a stuck throttle shaft?

How to get a rusted-in-place throttle shaft loose: GUNK Liquid Wrench works wonders on stuck throttle shafts and all rusted or corroded metal parts! Just spray the top and bottom of the shaft, let soak for about 30 minutes or maybe overnight, then VERY GENTLY, use Vise Grips to rotate the shaft back and forth. Be very gentle. Don't force it loose because it could become twisted and/or break off! After it rotates slightly, spray it again and gently rotate it back and forth again. Eventually, it'll loosen freely.

But if it still refuse to loosen, remove the throttle plate, float bowl, float and baffle shield. Then drill a 3/32" hole in the carburetor body directly in-line with the bottom of the throttle shaft. Finally, use a small roll-pin punch to drive the shaft from the carburetor body. If either of the throttle plate screws breaks off, be sure to grind off the protruding stud that remains for easy removal of the shaft. Cut some short 5-44 NF threads in the drilled hole and then plug the hole with a 5-40 NC Allen set screw (the difference in threads will not allow the set screw to go all the way through the hole and interfere with the throttle shaft) and then grind the protruding end of the set screw so it won't interfere with the operation of the float.

Should one or both of the tiny brass throttle plate retaining screws break off while being removed, sometimes the shaft can be difficult to remove. To remove the shaft, grind the flared end of the [broken] stud enough where they are flush with the throttle shaft. A Dremel or equivalent grinder with a small chainsaw sharpening stone works best. Then the broken stud must be drilled out of the throttle shaft with either a 5/64", #46 or 2mm drill bit and retap the threads. The stock screw size is 3-48 NC. Should the threaded hole become enlarged from drilling out the broken screw, then a larger screw (4-40 NC) must be installed. In this event please contact us and we will send you the larger screws with split lockwashers.

Use a Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System to Start a Cold Engine - Top of page

If the Carter or Kohler carburetor on your pulling tractor doesn't have a choke plate assembly installed, but does have an air filter with perhaps a velocity stack, and if you ever started your engine by "hand choking it," then you probably already know how hard it is to get your hand sealed over the entire velocity stack or end of the carburetor, and also have a wet hand from the fuel afterwards. Well, an inexpensive and safe way to get extra fuel into the throttle bore to start a cold engine is to use a remote fuel primer bulb system.

How it works: With the atmospheric vent hole in the carburetor plugged, and with a short brass tube tapped into a drilled hole in the side of the carburetor body, and with a small fuel line connecting the carburetor to the primer bulb, with your finger over the hole in the primer bulb, several pushes of the bulb creates air pressure within the float bowl, which forces fuel up through the main jet, lightly flooding the throttle bore. Thus, helping a cold engine without a choke plate start easier. This is the same setup that many small engine manufacturers use on their engines nowadays. And having a small fuel line connected to the atmospheric vent hole in the carburetor is a lot safer than having raw fuel spilling out of the hole when pulling! Also, if your engine hesitates upon acceleration, this primer setup can be used as an auxiliary accelerator pump. In addition with this system, there's no more worries if the choke is left partially closed while going down the track.

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If you need a remote fuel primer kit, please contact A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises | 1501 W. Old Plank Rd. | Columbia, MO 65203 USA | Phone: 1-573-875-4033. Please call any day, 9am to 5pm, Central time. If no answer, please try again later. (When speaking with Brian, please be patient because I stutter.) Fax: 1-573-449-7347. E-mail: pullingtractor@aol.com. You can also contact us through Yahoo! Messenger: Find us here: Directions to our shop | Yahoo! Maps, 1501 W. Old Plank Rd., Columbia, MO | 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO - Google Maps or Map of 1501 West Old Plank Road, Columbia, MO by MapQuest.
Remote Fuel Primer Kit

For garden pulling tractors, ordinary garden tractors, lawn and garden equipment or virtually any type of small engine equipment. Works with pump gas or alcohol fuels. Kit includes primer bulb assembly, 3' of 1/8" i.d. clear vinyl hose and 1/8" o.d. x 1" long brass tube (to mount on side of carburetor for the atmospheric vent hole). $15.00 per kit, plus shipping & handling.

 Fuel Primer Bulb Assembly. $7.00 each, plus shipping.

Go here for more parts: Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop Services

To install and use the Remote Fuel Primer Bulb System on your tractor:

  1. Exploded view of how to modify a 10-18hp Kohler CarburetorRemove the carburetor and plug the atmospheric vent hole in the carburetor. It's the only hole that allows air into the float bowl area. A 1/4" Allen set screw should be used. It's located at the 1:30 position next to the choke plate end. The hole in the primer bulb will become the new atmospheric vent hole for the carburetor.
  2. Drill an 1/8" hole in the float bowl area, just above the float fuel level to install the 1/8" tubing to connect the primer hose. On the Carter and Kohler carburetor, this would be just above the bowl seal and below the atmospheric vent hole passageway on side of the carburetor. The drilled hole must be a press-fit for the 1/8" tubing. Gently tap the tubing in the hole with a small hammer. See the drawing to the right.
  3. Drill a 17/64" hole to mount the primer bulb assembly someplace on the tractor within easy reach of the driver.
  4. Route the primer hose along the tractor so it won't get kinked, pinched or damaged and away from the hot exhaust area. Then attach the hose from the 1/8" fitting on the carburetor to the primer bulb assembly.
  5. Press the primer bulb a few times with your finger to create pressure within the float bowl, and at the same time, look inside the carburetor. Fuel should come out of the main nozzle with each push. And then the engine should be quick to start! NOTE: It only takes a couple of pushes to start the engine. Any more, and the engine will become flooded and be hard to start!

When removing the choke plate and shaft, there's a tiny (1/8") steel ball and spring located at the 9:00 position when facing the choke end. This is the detent to retain the choke plate in the open position when a cable isn't attached to the choke lever. When you slide out the choke shaft, hold one finger over the screw hole to prevent the ball and spring from flying out and possibly getting lost.

Fabricate a Foolproof Type of Foot-Operated Throttle Control Setup on a Pulling Tractor - Top of page

For a fancy and noticeable gas pedal, install a chrome-plated, die-cast aluminum "barefoot" pedal. These were popular in the late '60s to early '70s as a nostalgic item mainly on street rod and hot rod vehicles. They're available on eBay. Use a medium size household door hinge to mount the pedal to the foot rest on the tractor.

To fabricate the throttle linkage and levers, run a 3/16" diameter steel rod from the pedal, up to a bellcrank (lever), then fasten the lever to a 5/16" diameter steel rod. Run the rod through the steering column support and then fabricate another bellcrank (lever) on the other end of the 5/16" rod, and connect that to another 3/16" diameter steel rod which goes forward and attaches to the throttle lever on the carburetor.

We made our own bellcranks (or levers) from 1/2" x 1/8" x about 2" long mild steel. We simply drilled a hole in each end (3/16" and 5/16") and clamped one end of the lever with a locknut on the 5/16" rod so we can loosen the nuts to make adjustments as necessary, and the other hole in the lever is for the 3/16" rod. Install a lightweight return spring from the pedal to the tractor frame. And look your tractor over to determine where the holes should be drilled through the steering column support. Just don't drill the holes where the steering column will be in the way.

If properly installed and adjusted, we believe that this type of throttle control is absolutely the best design. It will never fail on virtually any tractor. It also works much better and smoother than the cable design. There's no parts to wear and there's no sliding cable that can bind and eventually break, causing one to lose a good pull. And being virtually all tractors are different in design, we offer no kits for these. You'll have to fabricate your own. And the reason foot pedals are more popular than hand throttles is because both hands are needed on the steering wheel to control the tractor as it's going down the track.

Oh, and if you've ever wondered what a "dead man's throttle" is, it's a hand or foot operated spring-loaded throttle control that automatically returns the throttle plate to the idle position when the pressure is released. It works the same as the gas pedal in a car. Top of page

Repairing Various Older Briggs & Stratton Carburetors Top of page

Repairing the carburetor on an older 3hp, 3.5hp or 4hp B&S engine with either a Vacu-Jet or Pulsa-Jet diaphragm carburetor -

First of all, the Vacu-Jet carburetor operates off of engine vacuum to delivery fuel to the engine. (The very first Vacu-Jet carburetors have a manual choke, and no diaphragm. The second design Vacu-Jet carburetor uses a diaphragm, and have a manual choke. The third design Vacu-Jet uses a diaphragm and has an automatic choke.) And the Pulsa-Jet has a built-in fuel pump to delivery fuel to the engine. Both of the [newest design] Vacu-Jet and Pulsa-Jet carburetors have an automatic choke. If either of these carburetors run rich on fuel, and the choke won't open up on starting, what has happened is where the carburetor is fastened to the gas tank, these two "mating surfaces" has become warped. This is caused by over-tightening of the air cleaner screw. To fix this...

  1. Remove the carburetor/gas tank from the engine.
  2. Remove the carburetor from the tank and completely disassemble the carburetor.
  3. Resurface the carburetor base either with a large, flat file or wide, flat sanding disc. The gas tank will need to be resurfaced using a large, flat file. Be careful when resurfacing using a file! Make sure the entire surface is cut straight across evenly, or very little will be gained.
  4. After resurfacing, use compressed air to clear out the air and fuel passageways in the carburetor and gas tank.
  5. A new diaphragm will need to be installed. NOTE: If it's a Pulsa-Jet, place the fuel pump spring and protective cap in the carburetor recess, and not in the gas tank recess.

Repairing the Pulsa-Jet carburetor on a 5hp Briggs & Stratton engine -

If your 5hp B&S engine has excellent spark and adequate compression, but it still won't run right, then the problem is in the carburetor. To fix the problem...

  1. Remove the carburetor from the engine and gas tank, completely disassemble, and soak it in Berryman Chem Dip® Professional Carburetor and Parts Cleaner (available at most auto parts supply stores).
  2. Use an acetylene welding tip cleaner (available at most welding supply stores) or a very small drill bit to clear out the dried gas and/or dirt from the idle and main nozzle holes. Be careful not to enlarge the holes, or the engine will run rich on fuel!
  3. Use compressed air to clear the debris from the nozzle holes.
  4. Clean the screens on the pickup tubes.
  5. Resurface the carburetor mounting flange and fuel pump cover with a large flat file or on a flat sanding disc so they'll perfectly flat to prevent a vacuum leak.
  6. Install a new fuel pump diaphragm, carburetor-to-tank gasket and mounting gasket, set the fuel mixture adjustment screw about 1-1/2 turns out, and make the final adjustment after the engine runs.
  7. If the throttle shaft needs to be removed for whatever reason, first pull the sheet metal spiral from the throttle bore with needle-nosed Vise-Grips or large pliers. Then access to the throttle plate retaining screw can be gained with a long slender screwdriver.
  8. Your engine should run like new afterwards!

And if the choke flap won't open when starting a 3hp and 3.5hp Briggs & Stratton engine having either an older Vacu-Jet or Pulsa-Jet Automatic Choke carburetor... (The ones without a primer bulb.), to fix this problem, the carburetor and gas tank are warped and needs to be resurfaced. To do so....

  1. Remove the carburetor from the gas tank.
  2. Remove the fuel pickup tubes from the carburetor with a 3/8" and 9/16" deep well sockets.
  3. Resurface just the carburetor on a large flat sanding disc, or both the carburetor and gas tank can be resurfaced with a large, wide flat file.
  4. If there's a groove in the carburetor body that leads to the choke chamber, it will need to be cut slightly deeper with a hacksaw blade so the choke will function properly.
  5. After resurfacing, use compress air to thoroughly clear the fuel and air passageways and install a new diaphragm.
  6. Finally, when installing the diaphragm, start the mounting screws about halfway and then flip the choke flap in reverse to preload the diaphragm.
  7. Tighten the mounting screws and reposition the choke flap in its normal postion so the choke will operate properly.

How to clean the main jet in a 16hp/18hp flathead opposed twin cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine -

The main jet is located in the float bowl of the carburetor. To access and clean it...

  1. If equipped, remove the hood of the tractor (they're easy to remove).
  2. Remove the air cleaner assembly. Be careful not to drop the screws down inside the carburetor!
  3. Remove the choke cable from the carburetor.
  4. Remove the top of the carburetor.
  5. Remove the hex plug on the side of the carburetor.
  6. Using an acetylene welding tip cleaner, clean out the main jet hole. The main jet hole is accessed through the hole where the hex plug goes. And be careful not to enlarge the main jet hole, or the engine will run rich on fuel!
  7. Use compressed air to clear out the main jet hole and debris from the float bowl area.
  8. Reinstall everything in reverse order of removal.

Your engine should rev up without using the choke afterwards! This may have to be done every few years because these type of carburetors are notorious for having tiny particles of dirt that passes through the fuel filter settle at the bottom of the float bowl. The main jet is real close to the bottom of the float bowl too, which allows dirt to clog it over time.

How To Clean the Inside of A Heavily Rusted or Dirty Gas Tank -

To clean an internally rusty or dirty gas tank, put some small driveway gravel in the tank with water, seal the fuel outlet fitting and gas cap vent holes (make sure the gas cap has a good seal), then literally and vigorously shake the heck out of it! Or for less tiresome labor, put the gravel and water in the tank, seal it up, securely tie an old blanket around it and then put it in a clothes dryer. Set the dryer on the cold or "No Heat" setting, and let it agitate for a couple of hours. When the water is drained and majority of the gravel removed, use a garden water hose to thoroughly clean out inside the tank. It should look new inside. If there's still some rust or dirt in it, repeat the process until all the rust or dirt is broken loose.

Linked pages to our parts & services:

A-1 Miller's Performance Enterprises
Offering Quality Products and Professional Workmanship at Reasonable Prices!

Engine Rebuild Parts, Engine Rebuilds, Build-ups, Exhaust Header Pipe Kits & Machine Shop Services

Carburetor, Fuel System Parts & Machine Shop Services

Clutch Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services

Transmission, Transaxle Parts, Rebuilds & Machine Shop Services

Steering, Chassis Parts & Machine Shop Services

Ignition, Electrical and Crank Trigger Electronic Ignition Parts and Kits

Miller's Pulling Sled Services

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